1. Textiles, Patterns, and Equipment
Unit 7

2. Understanding Fabrics and Patterns
Section 12-1

3. Objectives
Explain how fibers, yarns, and fabrics are produced and manufactured. Distinguish various fabric finishes. Identify a suitable pattern and interpret information on its envelope. Select appropriate fabric and notions for your garment.

4. Fibers
Sewing enables you to create original garments that reflect your taste and style
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5. Sewing success involves making wise fabric selections
Fibers
Sewing success involves
making wise fabric selections
understanding fabrics is key
pairing the right fabric with the right pattern
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6. Yarns are woven and knitted to make fabrics
Fibers
Yarns are woven and knitted to make fabrics
Fibers are combined to form yarn
Fiber is the basic unit of all fabrics

7. do not change in composition during processing
Natural Fibers
Natural fibers
exist in nature
do not change in composition during processing
© Richard Thornton/Shutterstock

8. Cotton
Cotton comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber
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9. Cotton
Advantages: Versatile, absorbent, comfortable in warm weather, dyes and prints well, does not build up static electricity, durable Disadvantages: Wrinkles and shrinks easily (finishes can be applied to fabrics to prevent this)

10. Linen
Flax, the fiber used to make linen, comes from the woody stalk of the flax plant Flax is the oldest known fiber used for fabrics; the strongest of natural fibers
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11. Linen
Advantages: Strong, cool, absorbent, durable, looks smooth and lustrous Disadvantages: Wrinkles and creases easily unless treated, shines if ironed, poor resistance to mildew and perspiration

12. Wool
Wool, a protein fiber, comes from the fleece of sheep Wool is the warmest of natural fibers
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13. Wool
Advantages: Warm, absorbent, resists wrinkles, resilient, durable, creases well Disadvantages: Expensive, can shrink or matt, often requires dry cleaning, burns easily, attracts insects
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14. Wool
Wool Products Labeling Act requires that wool in fabrics and garments must be labeled as
new or virgin wool (fibers from the coat of a living animal that is being used for the first time)
Recycled (fibers from previously made wool fabrics that were never used)

15. Silk
Silk is excreted from the silkworm when it builds its cocoon Silk fibers are unraveled from the cocoons of silkworms
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16. Silk
Advantages: Looks and feels smooth and luxurious, absorbent, strong but lightweight, resists wrinkling and soil Disadvantages: Expensive; weakened by detergents, perspiration, and sunlight; yellows with age; may require dry cleaning; attacked by insects; spotted by water

17. Did You Know? Silk is the longest natural fiber
It takes 2,000 to 3,000 cocoons to make one pound of raw silk
© Sofia/Shutterstock

18. Ramie
Ramie fibers are obtained from the stalks of China grass, which is grown in Southeast Asia Advantages: Strong, durable, washable, lustrous, absorbent, dries quickly

19. natural cellulose (a fibrous substance from plants)
Manufactured Fibers
Manufactured fibers are produced through chemical and technical means from
natural cellulose (a fibrous substance from plants)
chemicals (noncellulosic fibers); crude oil products
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20. Some manufactured fibers are rayon acetate acrylic nylon polyester
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21. Manufactured Fibers
Noncellulosic fibers are generally thermoplastic (soften at high temperatures)
Manufactured fibers have advantages and disadvantages
Rayon and lyocell are absorbent
Other fibers are not absorbent and create static electricity

22. Microfibers
A microfiber is an extremely thin filament of a manufactured fiber It has all the characteristics of its original manufactured fiber, plus a luxurious look and feel
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23. Microfiber is available in acrylic rayon nylon polyester
Microfibers
Microfiber is available in
acrylic
rayon
nylon
polyester

24. Yarns
A yarn is a continuous strand made by combining staple fibers or filaments
Staple fibers are short fibers
Filaments are continuous strands of fibers
Many yarns are either blends or combinations of different fibers

25. Fabric Construction
Two common methods of fabric construction are weaving and knitting
Other methods are
felting
fusing
braiding
knotting
quilting

26. Woven Fabrics
Weaving is the process of interlacing two sets of yarns to produce a fabric Weaving is done on machines called looms

27. Plain Weave
Simplest form of weaving Made by passing a crosswise yarn alternately over and under the lengthwise yarns Produces strong, durable fabrics such as muslin, percale, dress linen, gingham, broadcloth

28. Twill Weave
Twill weave is formed when a crosswise yarn passes, or floats, over two or three lengthwise yarns Produces fabrics that are strong, durable, resist wrinkles, and hide soil Examples are denim and gabardine

29. Satin Weave
A satin weave is made when a crosswise yarn floats over four or more yarns and under one Characterized by their lustrous shine Satin-weave fabrics are not durable, but tend to be smooth and slippery

30. Knit Fabrics
Knitting is the process of looping yarns together to form fabrics
Knit fabrics
stretch to move with, and fit, the body
resist wrinkles
may run, snag, or ravel

31. Other Fabric Constructions
Nonwoven fabrics are made by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers together directly without using yarns Made using mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat Have many medical and industrial uses
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32. Other Fabric Constructions
Braiding is the process of interlacing three or more yarns lengthwise and diagonally to make fabrics Used to make decorative trims, shoelaces, and rugs Laces and nets are produced through knotting, twisting, or looping yarns
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33. Other Fabric Constructions
Quilting is the process of stitching a layer of insulating material between two layers of fabric

34. Fabric Finishes
All fabrics go through some type of finishing process Most finishes add certain characteristics to the fabrics that improve the appearance, feel, or performance
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35. Fabric Finishes
Antistatic Bleaching Brushing Calendering Dyeing Permanent press Flame retardant
Mercerization Preshrinking Stain resistance Sizing Soil release Water repellent

36. Think Further
How does a permanent press finish improve the appearance of cotton and linen fabrics?
© Sergey Rusakov/Shutterstock

37. Choosing a Pattern
Successful sewing begins with choosing the right pattern
Correct size
Flattering style
Appropriate level of difficulty

38. Figure Type and Size
Pattern companies have standard pattern sizes for various figure types
Figure types are based on height and general body proportions

39. Taking Measurements
Tape measure should fit snugly around the body, but not too tight Measure over undergarments Use tape measure parallel to the floor Ask for help

40. The Pattern Envelope
Read the information on the front and back of the envelope The front has a drawing with variations of the basic pattern, or pattern views
© Photo courtesy of McCall Pattern Company

41. Pattern Back
Number of pattern pieces included Written description of the garment Fabric recommendations Supplies needed Drawing of the back of each garment view Measurement chart How much fabric to buy Any interfacing or lining fabrics needed

42. Choosing a Fabric
The pattern-envelope back identifies fabrics appropriate for the pattern
© Rob Bouwman/Shutterstock
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43. Choosing a Fabric
Before buying fabric, consider
a fabric’s care requirements
your sewing skill and the difficulties that fabrics can pose if they are too heavy, slippery, ravel easily, or have a complicated design

44. How Much Is Needed?
To determine how much fabric and interfacing to buy, refer to the back of the pattern envelope
A chart will show the amount of fabric to buy based on the fabric width and pattern size

45. Choosing Notions Buy notions when you buy your fabric thread buttons
trims
fasteners
seam binding
bias tape
© Nattika/Shutterstock
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46. Choosing Notions
Notions needed are listed on the back of the pattern envelope Polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread is good for working with most fabrics

47. Section 12-1 Review
What are the two major groups of fibers and what raw materials are used to produce them?
natural fibers exist in nature; manufactured fibers are produced through chemical and technical means from natural cellulose or crude oil products
What was the first manufactured fiber?
rayon
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48. Section 12-1 Review How are nonwoven fabrics made?
by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers together using mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat
True or false. The type and amount of fabric required by a given pattern is given inside the pattern envelope.
false—it is given on the back of the pattern envelope

49. Sewing Equipment
Section 12-2

50. Objectives
Determine the basic sewing supplies. Describe how to operate and care for a sewing machine. List the uses of a serger.

51. Small Equipment
Having the proper equipment and knowing how to use it will help you become a successful sewer
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52. Small Equipment
A sewing box will help you keep sewing items in one place
measuring tools
cutting tools
marking tools
pins and needles
pressing equipment

53. Measuring Tools
Measuring tools are essential for taking measurements
tape measure
sewing gauge

54. Cutting Tools
Having good-quality, sharp shears and scissors is very important in sewing
dressmaker shears
scissors
rotary cutter
seam ripper
pinking shears

55. Marking Tools
Marking tools are used to transfer pattern markings to fabric
tracing wheels
tracing paper
tailor’s chalk
tailor’s pencil
© Farsad-Behzad Ghafarian/Shutterstock

56. Pins and Needles
Dressmaker pins hold garment pieces in place Needles bring the thread through the fabric Pincushions hold unused pins and needles Thimbles are used when sewing by hand

57. Pressing Equipment Pressing is as important as stitching iron
pressing cloth
ironing board
tailor’s ham

58. The Sewing Machine
© BERNINA of America, Inc.
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59. The Sewing Machine
Learning how to operate a sewing machine is easier when you understand how it works A sewing machine secures pieces of fabric together with a lockstitch Two threads lock in the middle of the fabric layers to make a secure stitch
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60. The Sewing Machine
© gnohz/Shutterstock
The needle carries thread from the upper part of the machine, through the fabric, to pick up the lower thread
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61. The *bobbin* is a small spool that feeds the lower thread
**The Sewing Machine
The *bobbin* is a small spool that feeds the lower thread
© ultimathule/Shutterstock
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62. **The Sewing Machine**
The **presser foot** holds fabric in place The **feed dogs** are two small rows of teeth that move the fabric forward The **thread-tension regulator **balances the tension, or pull between the upper and lower threads
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63. Think Further
Tension must be balanced for a proper stitch to form. What is wrong with this stitch and how can the tension be adjusted to fix it?
© Africa Studio/Shutterstock

64. The Sewing Machine
With mechanical machines, the user dials the stitch wanted and adjusts the length, width, and tension With computerized machines, the preferred length, width, and tension are preprogrammed

65. Did You Know?
In the early 1800s, most clothing was made in the home using a needle and thread.
The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing possible.
© Chas/Shutterstock

66. Threading the Machine **Threading upper part of machine**
Put thread spool on the spool pin
Run thread from the spool pin through the
tension control**
take-up lever **
thread guides**
Needle**
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67. Threading lower part of machine Thread the bobbin
Threading the Machine
Threading lower part of machine
Thread the bobbin
Place bobbin in bobbin case
Bring bobbin thread up through the needle hole before beginning to sew

68. Two basic types of stitches Straight stitch ------------ Zigzag stitch

69. Caring for the Machine
Your owner’s manual will have step-by-step directions for cleaning your machine
Clean often with a soft cloth or small brush
Use the correct type of needle for your machine and fabric; replace dull or bent needles
Oil periodically

70. The Serger
Home sewers can obtain professional- looking results by using sergers In one step, a serger can stitch, trim, and finish a seam
© Trykster/Shutterstock
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71. The Serger continued Sergers
use 2, 3, 4, or 5 threads and 1 or 2 needles
have upper and lower loopers instead of bobbins
have upper and lower knives that trim seam allowances
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72. The Serger Sergers do not replace conventional sewing machines
© Dmitry Kalinovsky/Shutterstock

73. Safety with Sewing Tools
Sewing hazards
Fires and burns
Cuts and wounds
Electric shock
Trips and falls
Follow precautions to prevent injuries

74. Section 12-2 Review What are marking tools used for?
to transfer pattern markings from a pattern piece to the fabric
What is the function of the needle on a sewing machine?
it carries thread from the upper part of the machine down through the fabric and picks up thread from the lower part of the machine to create a lockstitch
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75. Section 12-2 Review
What are the two basic types of stitches that almost all sewing machines can create?
straight stitch and zigzag stitch
True or false. A serger does not take the place of a conventional sewing machine.
true

76. Glossary
bobbin. A small metal or plastic spool that feeds the lower thread on a sewing machine, which is needed in making a lockstitch.
fabric. A textile product usually made by weaving or knitting yarns together.
feed dogs. Two small rows of teeth that move the fabric forward under the presser foot.

77. Glossary fiber. The basic unit of all fabrics.
filament. Continuous strand of fibers.
knitting. A process of looping yarns together to form a fabric.

78. Glossary
lockstitch. A stitch made by a sewing machine with thread coming from both the upper and lower parts of the machine and locking securely in the middle of the fabric layers being sewn.
loopers. Serger sewing machine parts that form upper and lower stitches.

79. Glossary
manufactured fibers. Fibers that are produced through chemical and technical means from natural cellulose or crude oil products.
microfiber. An extremely thin filament of a manufactured fiber.
natural fibers. Fibers that exist in nature.

80. Glossary
nonwoven fabrics. Fabrics made by bonding or interlocking fibers together directly without using yarns.
notions. Small items needed to construct a garment, including thread, buttons, trims, fasteners, seam binding, and bias tape.

81. Glossary
pattern view. A drawing on the front of a pattern envelope showing a garment design that can be made from the pattern included in the envelope.
presser foot. A sewing machine part that holds fabric in place as the machine stitches.

82. Glossary
serger. A high-speed sewing machine that can stitch, trim, and finish seams in one simple step.
thread-tension regulator. Two separate controls found on a sewing machine that balance tension or pull between the upper and lower threads to form the proper stitch.

83. Glossary
weaving. The process of interlacing two sets of yarns to produce a fabric.
yarn. A continuous strand formed from combined fibers.