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 2 major forms of fabric designs ◦ Structural design  Building in texture or interest into fabrics  Weaving & knitting ◦ Applied design  Adding color.

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Presentation on theme: " 2 major forms of fabric designs ◦ Structural design  Building in texture or interest into fabrics  Weaving & knitting ◦ Applied design  Adding color."— Presentation transcript:

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2  2 major forms of fabric designs ◦ Structural design  Building in texture or interest into fabrics  Weaving & knitting ◦ Applied design  Adding color

3  Weaving (def) – the procedure of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other ◦ Warp – lengthwise (up and down) ◦ Weft (or filling) – crosswise (side to side over and under the warp yarns) ◦ Selvage (def) – will not ravel – turns at edge to go back the other way ◦ Grain – direction of yarn in fabric  Bias grain – diagonal  True Bias – 45-degree angle

4  3 basic weave types: ◦ Plain  Simplest & most common  Variation – basket weave denier  Think of a tennis racket – lengthwise and crosswise pass over and under each other ◦ Twill – a yarn in one direction “floats” over two or more yarns in the other direction – dominant yarn is seen on the surface of the cloth creating a diagonal rib pattern ◦ Satin – long yarn floats on the surface in one direction – go over 4 or more yarns and under one – creates shiny fabric surface  Variations of 3 weave types can create: ◦ Stripes, checks, plaids, and other patterns

5  Jacquard loom ◦ Machine that weaves large, complex designs  Pile fabrics ◦ Have loops projecting from surface ◦ Terry cloth  Nap ◦ Raised from the surface

6  (def) Looping yarns together  Gauge ◦ # of stitches, or loops, per inch  Sportswear, sweaters (natural flexibility and built in stretch to fit the body comfortably)  Types ◦ Tube form ◦ Flat knitted fabrics ◦ Page Characteristics

7  Single knit – single needle ◦ Formal wear, lingerie, & T-shirts  Double knit – 2 needles ◦ Dresses, slacks, suits, & coats  Purl Knits – crosswise ridges – reversible ◦ Waistbands, neckbands, cuffs  Sweater knits – loosely knitted  Textured knits ◦ Permanently crimped, coiled, curled, or looped

8  Warp Knits ◦ Fastest way ◦ Stable, durable  Tricot ◦ Most familiar warp knit ◦ Does not run or ravel ◦ Clingy dresses, shirts, & lingerie  Raschel knits ◦ Limited stretch, lots of texture

9  (def) made from a compact web of fibers, not yarns, held together with a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, and/or pressure.  Compact web ◦ Use  Moisture, heat, chemicals ◦ No grain line ◦ Disposable ◦ Collars & cuffs ◦ Vinyl ◦ Artificial suedes

10  Laces and Nets  Braided Fabrics ◦ Also called plaiting ◦ Shoelaces, trims  Bonded Fabrics ◦ Fusible web  Iron on patches  Quilted Fabrics

11  Apply colors, designs, surface treatments  Converters ◦ Greige to finished fabrics  Bleaching  Dyeing  Printing  Adding finishes

12  Chemicals  Remove natural coloring  Remove impurities ◦ Oils, waxes,  Fade products ◦ Stone wash

13  Giving color to textiles  Colorfast ◦ Not fade or change  Can launder, dry cleaning, sunlight, perspiration, rubbing

14  Fiber ◦ Before spun into yarn ◦ Natural – stock-dyed or bale-dyed ◦ Manufactures  Solution-dyed  Yarn ◦ Before wound onto spoils ◦ Stripes, checks, plaids

15  Piece Dyeing ◦ After woven or knitted ◦ Least expensive, fastest  Garment ◦ Usually knitted ◦ Dyed with requested color and immediately shipped

16  Colors, designs, patterns to surface of garment  Overall prints ◦ Across all the fabric  Directional prints  Border prints  Even or balanced plaids ◦ Ex. checks

17  Uneven plaids  Several basic methods ◦ Roller Printing ◦ Screen Printing ◦ Rotary printing – combo of roller & screen ◦ Heat transfer ◦ Ink-Jet Printing – cheaper ◦ Flocking – with adhesive

18  Wearing advantages ◦ Ease of care ◦ Page 127 – fabric finishes ◦ Most are permanent ◦ Durable  Temporary ◦ Last until washed  Renewable ◦ Can be replaced

19  Many types but all fall into 2 categories ◦ Mechanical  Affects sizes and appearances  Ex. Pre-shrunk  Pressing & pounding – flat harder surface ◦ Chemical  Mercerization  Ex. Crease-resistant, stain resistant  Permanent press  Resist wrinklet

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