4Yarns Yarns: fibers twisted together or laid side by side. These fibers may be natural, manufactured, or both.Fabrics will vary greatly in design, texture, and performance.
5Types of Yarns Spun Yarns: a yarn made of staple fibers All natural fibers, except for silk, are staple fibers.Manufactured fibers can be cut into staple lengths to give fabrics the appearance of cotton, linen, or wool.The staple fibers are twisted together to form a single yarn long enough to make into fabric.
6Types of YarnsFilament Yarns: a yarn made entirely of filament fibers.Silk, and manufactured fibers that have not been cut are filament fibers.Filament yarns are smoother and more lustrous than spun yarns.A monofilament yarn has only one strand, as seen in nylon sewing thread and fishing line.When two or more filaments are combined during the manufacturing process, a multifilament yarn forms.
7Types of YarnsMost manufacturers twist two or more single yarns together to make a ply yarn.Ply: tells the number of strands used.Several ply yarns twisted together form a cord or cable.High-twist yarns are firm, strong, dull in texture, and relatively fine in size.Low-twist yarns are softer, weaker, more lustrous, and less compact than high twist yarns.
8Types of Yarns Novelty Yarns: Two or more yarns that are not alike in type or size are used to construct novelty yarns.Often have loops and different thickness.
9Texturing and Blending Textured YarnsTexturing: using chemicals, heat, or special machinery to turn straight, rod-like filaments into coiled, looped, or crimped yarns.Texturing increases the yarns’ bulk, giving a softer feel to the finished fabric.Adding bulk to filament yarns helps overcome some of the disadvantages of the fiber’s original characteristics. For example, textured filament yarns have more space between the filaments than regular filament yarns. Thus, the fabric made of textured yarns has more breathability and is more comfortable to wear.
10Texturing and Blending Blended YarnsBlends: combining different fibers in one yarn.The best qualities of different yarns are brought together in a new yarn.
11Fabric Characteristics ConstructionWeaving: interlaces two sets of yarns that are at right angles to each other.Knitting: loops yarns together.Construction easily identifies some fabrics.TextureHandWeight
12Woven FabricsFabric is created by interlacing lengthwise and crosswise yarns on a loom.Warp Yarns: the yarns that run the length of the fabric.Filling Yarns: the crosswise yarns. (Also called weft yarns.
13Woven FabricsSelvage: self-edge formed by the filling yarn when it turns to go back in the other direction as fabric is created; the two finished lengthwise edges of fabric.Grain: the direction yarns run in a woven garment.
14The Weaving Process Warp yarns are positioned on the loom. They are attached to a warp bean at the back of the loom and then stretched through one or more frames, called harnesses.The filling yarn is wound onto a bobbin, which is placed in a container called a shuttle.The shuttle draws the filling yarn over and under the warp yarns.As the shuttle goes back and forth, the harness goes up and down to make room for it. This space is called the shed.
15The Weaving ProcessOne harness goes up, the shuttle passes through the shed, and the harness goes back down.Then the filling yarn is pushed into place at the front of the loom by a beater or reed.As the shuttle comes back through to the original side, another harness goes up.As these up and down, back and forth motions continue, the finished fabric rolls onto the cloth beam at the front of the loom.
16Basic Weaves Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave Simplest of all weaves. Filling yarns pass over and under each warp yarn.Ribbed Weave: Uses filling yarns that are thicker than the warp yarns.Basket Weave: Two or more yarns are group side by side in each direction and woven as one.Twill WeaveFilling yarns pass over and under one or more warp yarns.Satin WeaveHas yarns that float on the surface to give it luster or shine.
17Other Weaves Pile Weave Leno Weave Dobby Weave Jacquard Weave Pile: a raised surface of loops or yarn ends.Leno WeaveWarp yarns twist and cross between the filling yarns.Dobby WeaveCreates small geometric designs.Jacquard WeaveVery elaborate and detailed designs.
18Knit FabricsIn a knit, the lengthwise rows of stitches are called wales.The crosswise stitches are called courses.A knit usually has a greater degree of stretchability in one direction.Knits are comfortable to wear and easy to care for.
19The Knitting ProcessLoops of yarn are pulled through other loops of yarn to create interlocking rows.Varying the stitches or loops creates different textures and patterns.Knitting machines can duplicate hand-knitting stitches and patterns.There are two types of knitting machines: flat and circular.Flat produces fabric with two long finished edges. Circular machines produce tubes of knitted fabric.
20Types of Knits Weft Knits Warp Knits Jersey Knits Purl Knits Rib Knits Interlock KnitsDouble KnitsWarp KnitsTricot KnitsRaschel Knits