1. Chapter 13 Clothing & Textiles
Fabric Finishes
Chapter 13
Clothing & Textiles

2. Finishing processes
Finishes  any special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture, or performance

3. Color and design finishes
Gray goods  when fabric first comes from the loom (no color)

4. Dyeing textiles Dyes  compounds that penetrate and color fibers
Natural dyes
Used for centuries
Obtained from plants, insects, shellfish, and minerals
First synthetic dye was discovered by accident in 1856

5. Five different methods used for dyeing
Stock dyeing  natural fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns
Solution dyeing  used when manufactured fibers are produced, dye is added to the liquid solution that goes through the spinneret
Yarn dyeing  yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting
Piece dyeing  fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting
Garment dyeing  the fabric is cut and sewn into the finished product and then the entire garment is dyed

6. Colorfastness
Fabric that doesn’t fade, whether its been washed or exposed to chlorine or sunlight

7. Printing textiles
Color is transferred to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern
Four most common printing methods
Screen
Rotary screen
Roller
Heat transfer
Other methods that you can try yourself are…
Tie-dyeing
Painting

8. Printing Textiles Screen printing
See how Screen Printing is done at

9. Printing textiles Roller printing
See how it’s done at

10. Printing textiles Rotary screen printing
See how it’s done at

11. Printing textiles Heat-transfer printing
See how its done at

12. Texture finishes
Calendaring  fabric passes between two heated rollers that smooth the fabric and improve the luster

13. Texture finishes
Glazing  resin applied during calendaring to produce a high polish or glaze on the surface
Embossing fabric is given a raised design on the surface
Embossing fabric example below…

14. Texture finishes
Cire (suh-RAY)  a super-glossy finish is obtained by applying wax or some other substance before calendaring

15. Texture finishes
Moiré (Mwah-RAY)  a watered or wavy pattern is obtained by calendaring two layers of fabric slightly off grain

16. Texture finishes
Napping  rotating wire brushes raise the short fiber ends of staple yarns to create a soft and fuzzy surface called the nap

17. Textile finishes
Stone washing and acid washing  pumice stones are added to a mass- production laundering process

18. Textile finishes
Mercerization  gives cotton added luster, strength, and drape ability. It also improves fabrics affinity for dye. Fabrics and yarns are treated with a caustic soda or lye solution

19. Textile finishes
Sizing  starches or resins are added to the fabric for extra body, usually only a temporary finish

20. Performance finishes
Antibacterial or antiseptic  checks the growth of bacteria and fungi, such as mold and mildew
Antistatic  by absorbing small amounts of moisture from the air, this finish reduces the fabric dryness that causes static electricity
Crease-resistant  Applied to fabrics that wrinkle easily (cotton, rayon, linen)
Durable press  garments maintain a pressed appearance despite repeated washings and wearings
Flame-resistant and flame-retardant  reduce flaming or burning of fabrics exposed to a flame or high heat

21. Performance finishes
Mothproof  repels moths and other fiber eating insects
Shrinkage control  MINIMIZES shrinking
Soil release  dirt and stains release more easily from the fabric
Water- and stain-repellent  yarns are coated with a chemical that repels water and other liquids
Waterproof  fabrics have been coated or treated so that no water penetrates