Chapter 17 Hairstyling.

Chapter 17 Hairstyling

“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you
“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you.” – Mary Tyler Moore

Objectives Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair wrapping. Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques. Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons. Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain how they are used.

Objectives (continued)
Describe the three types of hair pressing. Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing and hard pressing. Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair. LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?) Hairstyling is cyclical and changes regularly based on fashion trends and lifestyle changes of society. The art of finger waving was in special demand in the Roaring Twenties, when the flapper attitude and style were the “in” thing. If you watch the runways today for great fashion designers, you will see variations of that close-head Twenties look, which are created with none other than finger waves! In today’s lesson, you will learn the art of finger waving. It is a basic concept and procedure that will serve as the foundation of many of the hairstyles you will provide in the salon. Remember that even though hairstyle trends of the youth today are freer and less rigid, there is still a large market for wet styling, especially when you consider our aging society. Learning to perform beautiful finger waves will challenge you but will also ultimately serve you well in your hair-designing career. Even if styles requiring finger waving are not in demand, the technique teaches you how to move and direct the hair. It helps you develop the dexterity, coordination, and finger strength required for professional hairstyling. It also provides you with valuable training in creating hairstyles and in molding hair to the curved surface of the head. After learning the basics of finger waving, the next step in studying wet hairstyling is learning how to create beautiful pin curls, which provide the foundation for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that you will use constantly when you design and create hairstyles, whether for everyday or evening wear. You can use pin curls on hair that is straight, permanent- waved, or naturally curly, although they are not suitable for hair that is overly curly. After learning about the fundamentals of finger waves and pin curls, you'll then move into roller curls. Then, of course, it will be necessary to study and practice comb-out techniques to ensure your ability to finish a style and satisfy your client. Much earlier you studied about the characteristics of hair, your medium, in the art of designing hairstyles. As you continue working with wet styling, you will see more and more how important knowledge of the hair quality is. The texture, density, length, and condition will all have a bearing on your styling results. In wet styling, rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls. Rollers hold the equivalent of two to four stand-up curls, saving a great deal of time, which means money in this business. Because of the tension placed on the hair around a roller, the set is stronger and longer lasting than the set achieved with pin curls or blow-dry styling. Also, rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and lengths, which give the stylist versatility in creating styles. Let’s take a closer look at all these wet hairstyling techniques.

Wet-Styling Tools Combs Brushes Rollers (short, medium, or long)
Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged) Pins Clamps

Finger Waving The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies. FINGER WAVING: The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies. NOTE: If this is a practical class, instructor should demonstrate the procedure and have students return the demonstration.

Finger-Waving Lotion Makes hair pliable and holds it in place
Made of karaya gum Diluted for use on fine hair Concentrated for regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry Avoid excessive amounts of FINGER-WAVING LOTION Makes hair pliable and holds it in place Made from karaya gum, which is found in trees of Africa and India Diluted for use on fine hair Can be concentrated for use on regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair and doesn’t flake when dry Avoid using excessive amounts of Hint: Apply to one section of head at a time to prevent drying and requiring additional applications.

Horizontal Finger Waving
Preparing Hair for Wet Styling Horizontal Finger Waving Procedures will be covered during the practical class. VERTICAL FINGER WAVING: Ridges run up and down the head. HORIZONTAL FINGER WAVING: Ridges around the head are sideways and parallel to the floor.

Pin Curls Parts of a Curl Base Stem Circle
PIN CURLS. Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles. NOTE: If conducting practical class, instructor should demonstrate each type of curl and procedure and have students return the demonstration. PARTS OF A CURL Base: The stationary, or immovable, foundation of the curl, which is attached to the scalp. Stem: The section of the pin curl, between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle, which gives the circle its direction and mobility. Circle: The part of the pin curl that forms a complete circle. The size of the circle governs the width of the wave and its strength.

Mobility of a Curl No-stem Half-stem Full-stem
MOBILITY OF A CURL: The amount of movement (mobility) of a section of hair is determined by the stem. No-stem: Placed directly on the base of the curl; produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility. Half-stem: Permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the base; gives good control to the hair. Full-stem: Allows greatest mobility; curl is completely off the base; base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or rectangular depending on area of head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit; used to give hair a strong, definite direction.

Shaping Begin at open end of a shaping.
SHAPING: The section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are either forward end or closed end. Always begin a pin curl at the open end, or convex side, of a shaping.

Open- and Closed-Center Curls
Open-center curls Closed-center curls OPEN- AND CLOSED-CENTER CURLS Open-center curls: Produce even, smooth waves and uniform waves. Closed-center curls: Produce waves that decrease in size toward the end; width of curl determines the size of the wave.

Curl and Stem Direction
Forward movement Reverse movement Upward movement Downward movement Clockwise Counterclockwise CURL AND STEM DIRECTION: The finished result is determined by the direction in which you place the stem of the curl. Forward movement: Toward the face. Reverse movement: Backward or away from the face. Upward movement: Toward the top of the head. Downward movement: Toward the bottom of the head. Clockwise: Curls formed in same direction as the movement of the hands of a clock. Counterclockwise: Curls formed in the opposite direction as the movement of the hands of a clock.

Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
Rectangular base Triangular base Arc base Square base PIN CURL FOUNDATIONS OR BASES: For control, divide the hair into sections or panels. Subsections for bases should be as equal as possible to avoid splits in the finished style. Rectangular base: Recommended at side front hairline for a smooth upsweep effect; avoid splits in comb-out by overlapping curls. Triangular base: Recommended along front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits; allows a portion of hair from each curl to overlap. Arc base: Also called half-moon or C-shape base; pin curls are carved out of shaping; give good direction and may be used at hairline or nape. Square base: Used for even construction for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift; can be used anywhere on head; avoid splits by staggering the sectioning (bricklay fashion).

Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning Waves PIN CURL TECHNIQUES
Ribboning: Forcing the hair between thumb and back of comb to create tension. Waves: Use two rows of pin curls, one set clockwise and the second set counterclockwise.

Pin Curl Techniques (continued)
Carved/sculptured curls Ridge curls Skip waves

Creating Volume with Pin Curls
Cascade curls Barrel curls CREATING VOLUME WITH PIN CURLS Cascade (or stand-up) curls: Used to create height in hair; placed on base with circle at 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to head. Size of curl determines height in comb out. Barrel curls: Curls that have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular basis; similar to a roller but without the same tension.

Roller Curl Advantages
Speed Increased strength Greater creativity ROLLER CURLS: Used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls. ADVANTAGES Speed: Roller holds equivalent of two to four stand-up curls. Increased strength: Hair is wrapped around roller with tension, which gives stronger, longer-lasting set. Greater creativity: Rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for any style. HOT ROLLERS [Instructor may want to add this information] Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either electrically or by steam, and are a great timesaver in the salon. Follow the same setting patterns as with wet setting, but allow the hot rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is less strong than a wet-set curl but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron. Some manufacturers have spray-on products to apply to each section of hair to create a stronger set.

Parts of a Roller Curl Base Stem Curl PARTS OF A ROLLER CURL
Base: The panel of hair the roller is placed on; should be same length and width as the roller; base determines volume. Stem: The hair between the scalp and first turn of the roller; stem gives the hair direction and mobility, as with pin curls. Curl: The hair that is wrapped around the roller; determines the size of the wave or curl.

Choosing Roller Size C-shaped curl Wave Curls CHOOSING ROLLER SIZE
C-shaped curl: Created by one complete turn around the roller. Wave: Created by one and one-half turns around the roller. Curls: Created by two and one-half turns around the roller.

Roller Placement On base Half base Off base Indentation
On base: Full volume – roller sits directly on the base; hair is overdirected slightly in front of base and then rolled down to the base. Half base: Medium volume – roller sits half on its base and half behind the base; hair is held straight up from head and rolled down to the base. Off base: Least volume – roller sits behind the base; strand is held at 45 degrees behind the base and rolled down. Indentation: The point where curls of opposite directions meet, forming a recessed area.

Wet Styling Wet set with rollers
Procedure will be covered during practical class. NOTE TO INSTRUCTOR: See Notes to Educator 9–11 of LP 17.0 regarding practical procedures. Announce that the actual procedures covered in today’s lesson will be presented later in a practical class, at which time you will hand out the applicable procedure sheet and have students follow along as you review the procedures.

Rollers Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states) ROLLERS HOT ROLLERS: Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either electrically or by steam and are a great timesaver in the salon. Allow hot rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is weaker than a wet-set curl but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron. Spray-on products are available for application to each section of hair to create a stronger set. VELCRO™ ROLLERS: rollers are not allowed by the state board of some states and provinces because they are difficult to clean and disinfect properly. Check with your regulatory agency to determine if you can use them in your state. Like hot rollers, Velcro™ rollers are used only on dry hair. Using them on wet hair will snag and pull the hair. They give more body than can be achieved with a round brush, but less volume than a hot roller or wet set will produce. When used after blow-drying, Velcro™ rollers may provide just the amount of volume you need. Velcro™ rollers need to stay in the hair for only 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how much set you want in the hair. Follow the same setting patterns as with wet setting, but keep in mind that no clipping is necessary to secure the roller. The Velcro™ fabric grips the hair well and stays in place on its own. Mist the entire head with hair spray, and then either place the client under a hooded dryer for 5 to 10 minutes, or use the diffuser attachment on your blow-dryer for the recommended time to give a soft set to the hair.

Back-Combing Technique
Section hair. Insert comb. Press comb to scalp. Create cushion base. Repeat for volume. Smooth hair. BACK-COMBING TECHNIQUE 1. Pick up hair section. Starting near front, pick up section of hair about same thickness as teeth on comb and 2 to 3 inches wide. 2. Insert comb. Insert fine teeth of comb into the hair at a depth of about 1 inch from scalp. 3. Press comb to scalp. Press comb gently down to scalp, rotating comb down and out of hair. Repeat this process, working up the strand until the desired volume is achieved. 4. Create cushion base. For a strong cushion base, the third time you insert comb, use same rotating motion but firmly push hair down to scalp; slide comb out of hair. 5. Repeat for volume. Work up strand until desired volume is achieved. 6. Smooth hair. To smooth hair, hold teeth of comb at a 45-degree angle and pointed away from you; lightly move comb over hair surface. HINT: Hair should be properly thinned or tapered for back combing to be effective.

Back-Brushing Technique
Hold strand. Place brush. Roll brush. Turn brush. Blend hair. Complete styling. BACK-BRUSHING TECHNIQUE 1. Hold strand. Pick up and hold a strand straight out from the scalp. 2. Place brush. Maintaining a slight amount of slack in the strand, place a teasing brush or a grooming brush near the base of the strand. Push and roll the inner edge of the brush with the wrist until it touches the scalp. 3. Roll brush. For interlocking to occur, the brush must be rolled. 4. Turn brush. Remove brush from the hair with a turn of the wrist, peeling back a layer of hair. The hair will be interlocked to form a soft cusion at the scalp. 5. Blend hair. Create softness and evenness of flow by blending, smoothing, and combing. 6. Complete Styling. Use a light touch and use a tall comb to lift hair as needed. Check for structural balance and use finishing spray.

Hair Wrapping Hair Wrapping Procedure
Procedure will be covered during practical class.

Thermal Styling The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain.

Blow-Dry Styling Tools
Blow-dryer Handle Slotted nozzle Small fan Heating element Speed/heat controls Diffuser

Combs, Picks, Clips COMBS AND PICKS
Combs and picks are designed to distribute and part the hair. They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes to adapt to many styling options. The length and spacing of the teeth vary from one comb to another. Teeth that are closely spaced remove definition from the curl and create a smooth surface; widely-spaced teeth shape larger sections of hair for a more textured surface. Combs with a pick at one end lift the hair away from the head. SECTIONING CLIPS Sectioning clips are usually metal or plastic and have long prongs to hold wet or dry sections of hair in place. It is important to keep the wet hair you are not working on sectioned off in clips so that it does not sit over the dry hair. This is particularly important when drying long hair.

Brushes Classic styling brush Paddle brush Grooming brush Vent brush
Round brush Teasing brush

Styling Products Foam or mousse Gels Liquid gels or texturizers
Straightening gels Volumizers Pomade or wax Silicone shiners Hair spray or finishing spray STYLING PRODUCTS: Known as liquid tools; give styles hold (ranging from light to very firm) and add shine and curl, or take curl away. Some questions to consider when choosing a styling product: How long does the style need to hold? What will the environment be? What hair type does client have? Foam or mousse: Builds body and volume into hair; use on damp hair and dry into hair. Good for fine hair; will hold for six to eight hours in dry conditions. Gels: Firm-bodied and usually clear or transparent; come in tubes or bottles and have strong hold. They create long-lasting body as a result of high resin level. Liquid gels or texturizers: Lighter and more viscous, or liquid, in form. Straightening gels: Relax the hair for a smooth, straight look; provide the most hold in dry outdoor conditions. Volumizers: Add volume to shape, especially at the base, when hair is blown dry. Pomade or wax: Add considerable weight to the hair by causing strands to join together, showing separation in the hair. Easily molds dry hair; use sparingly. Silicone shiners: Add gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural definition. Non-oily products that are excellent for all hair types; used for providing lubrication and protection while blow-drying and for finishing at the very end to add shine. Hair spray or finishing spray: Available in a variety of holding strengths in aerosol and nonaerosol sprays.

Blow-Dry Cautions Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.
Direct air flow. Direct hot air away from scalp. Move in back-and-forth motion. Partially dry before style blow-drying. BLOW-DRY CAUTIONS Do not hold dryer too long in one place, which could burn the scalp. Air should flow in direction the hair is wound. Direct hot air away from the scalp. Move in back-and-forth motion unless using the cooling button to cool a specific section. Partially dry before style blow-drying, due to the hair’s elasticity. This is especially important on damaged or chemically treated hair.

Blow-Dry Procedures Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair
Diffusing long, curly hair Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style Procedures will be covered during practical class.

Thermal Hairstyling Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques THERMAL HAIRSTYLING: Thermal waving and curling (also called marcel waving) are methods of styling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques. Thermal irons, which can be either electrical or stove heated, have been modernized so successfully that they are more popular today than ever before. Manipulative techniques are basically the same for electric irons or stove-heated irons.

Thermal Irons Four parts Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod Shell
THERMAL IRONS: Provide an even heat that is completely controlled by the stylist; should be made of the best quality steel to hold an even temperature. All thermal irons have four basic parts: Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod (round, solid prong) Shell (the clamp that presses the hair against the barrel or rod)

Flat Irons Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across
Used to create smooth, straight styles FLAT IRONS Flat irons have two hot plates ranging in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across. Flat irons with straight edges are used to create smooth, straight styles, even on very curly hair. Flat irons with beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or cup the ends. The edge nearest the stylist is called the inner edge; the one farthest from the stylist is called the outer edge. Modern technology is constantly improving electric curling and flat irons, by adding infinite heat settings for better control, constant heat even on high settings, ergonomic grips, and lightweight designs for ease of handling.

Testing Thermal Irons Heat iron. Clamp heated iron over tissue.
Note if paper scorches. Let cool as needed. TESTING THERMAL IRONS 1. Heat iron. 2. Clamp heated iron over tissue paper and hold for five seconds. 3. If paper scorches or turns brown, iron is too hot. 4. Let cool a bit before using. Overly hot irons can burn, scorch, or damage hair and can discolor white hair. Fine, lightened, or badly damaged hair withstands less heat than normal hair.

Care of Thermal Irons Wash with soap and water.
Use fine sandpaper or steel wool. Oil joint. CARE OF THERMAL IRONS Wash in soap solution with a few drops of ammonia to remove dirt or grease. Use fine sandpaper or steel wool with a little oil to remove rust and carbon and to polish. Oil the joint to make sure you get more movement.

Thermal Iron Comb Size Holding comb THERMAL IRON COMB
Size: Should be about 7 inches long, be made of hard rubber or other inflammable substance, and should have fine teeth. Holding the comb: Hold between thumb and all four fingers of the left hand, with the index finger resting on the backbone of the comb for better control and one end of the comb resting against the outer edge of the palm. This position assures a strong hold and a firm movement.

Manipulating Thermal Irons
Grasp handles with dominant hand. Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle. MANIPULATING THERMAL IRONS 1. Grasp handles in dominant hand, far enough away from joint to avoid heat. 2. Place three middle fingers on the back of the lower handle, with little finger in front of the lower handle and thumb in front of the upper handle.

Practice with Cold Irons
If you want to get really good at using curling irons, the key is to practice manipulating them. Always practice with cold irons. The following four exercises are designed to help you learn the most effective ways to use an iron. Because it is important to develop a smooth rotating movement, practice turning the iron while opening and closing it at regular intervals. Practice rotating the iron in both directions—downward (toward you) and upward (away from you). Practice releasing the hair by opening and closing the iron in a quick, clicking movement. Practice guiding the hair strand into the center of the curl as you rotate the iron. This movement ensures that the end of the strand is firmly in the center of the curl. Practice removing the curl from the iron by drawing the comb to the left and the rod to the right. Use the comb to protect the client's scalp from burns.

Other Types of Curls Spiral curls Part hair. Insert iron. Rotate iron.
Hold for 4 to 5 seconds. Remove iron.

Other Types of Curls (continued)
End curls.

Volume-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold strand at 135-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place on base.

Full-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold strand at 125-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place firmly on base.

Half-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold hair at 90-degree angle. Slide iron over hair strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place it half on base.

Off-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold hair at 70-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place off base.

Finished Thermal Curl Settings

Safety Measures Get instructions for use of irons. Keep irons clean.
Do not overheat. Test temperature. Handle carefully. Place hot irons in safe place to cool. Don’t place handles too close to heater.

Safety Measures (continued)
Properly balance irons in heater. Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Do not use metal combs. Place comb between scalp and iron. Curl only clean, dry hair. Avoid fishhooks. Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair.

Thermal Hair Straightening Types
Soft press Medium press Hard press THERMAL HAIR STRAIGHTENING: Also called hair pressing. Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of irons or combs. A pressing generally lasts until the next shampoo. It prepares the hair for additional service such as thermal roller curling and croquignole thermal curling (the two-loop or “Figure 8” technique). THREE TYPES Soft press: Removes about 50 percent to 60 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair. Medium press: Removes about 60 percent to 75 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of hair using slightly more pressure than for a soft press. Hard press: Removes 100 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb twice on each side of hair. Can also be done by first passing a hot curling iron through the hair. This is called a double press.

Analysis of Hair and Scalp
Wave pattern of hair Length of hair Texture of hair Feel of hair Elasticity of hair Shade of hair Condition of hair Condition of scalp ANALYSIS OF HAIR AND SCALP Wave pattern of hair: Curly or overly curly. Length of hair: Long, medium, or short. Texture of hair: Coarse, medium, fine, or very fine. Feel of hair: Wiry, soft, or silky. Elasticity of hair: Normal or poor. Under normal conditions, a client’s hair has good elasticity if it can be safely stretched to about 50 percent of its original length. If porosity is normal, then the hair returns to its natural wave pattern when it is wet or moistened. Shade of hair: Natural, faded, streaked, gray, tinted, or lightened. Condition of hair: Normal, brittle, dry, oily, damaged, or chemically treated. Condition of scalp: Normal, flexible, or tight.

Texture and Feel of Hair
Coarse, overly curly Medium Fine Wiry HAIR TEXTURE: Determined by the diameter and feel of the hair. Coarse, overly curly hair: Coarse hair has the greatest diameter and requires more heat and pressure when pressing than medium or fine hair. Medium hair: Medium hair is considered normal; presents no problems and is least resistant to hair pressing. Fine hair: Fine hair requires special care; less heat and pressure is applied to avoid breakage. Fine hair usually has only two layers: cortex and cuticle. Wiry hair: Wiry hair may be any diameter (coarse, medium, or fine); it feels stiff, hard, and glassy; very resistant to pressing and requires more heat and pressure than other hair types.

Pressing and Scalp Conditions
Normal Tight (with coarse hair) Flexible Intake Form SCALP CONDITIONS Normal: Proceed with analysis of hair. Tight with coarse hair: Press in direction of hair growth. Flexible: Pressing may take more pressure. CAUTION: Hair pressing should NOT be done on a client with scalp abrasions, a contagious scalp condition, scalp injury, or chemically damaged or relaxed hair. If any of these conditions exist, advise client to see a dermatologist. Failure to correct dry and brittle hair can result in hair breakage during hair pressing. Burnt hair strands cannot be conditioned. INTAKE FORM: Maintain a thorough and accurate history of the client’s hair and scalp condition and all services received with client record cards. ACTIVITY: Have two students volunteer to role-play the situation described in the textbook where a client has to be advised that his hair is not suitable for a pressing service. Have students use their own words for the role-play. Have the observing students provide feedback on the dialogue. Then have the students reverse roles and role-play another scenario regarding a client consultation prior to a hair pressing service.

Conditioning Treatments
Cosmetic preparations Thorough brushing Scalp massage CONDITIONING TREATMENTS: Effective conditioning treatments involve special cosmetic preparations for the hair and scalp, thorough brushing, and scalp massage.

Pressing Combs Construction Handles Teeth Tempering the comb
Heat comb. Remove comb. Coat in oil. Cool and rinse. PRESSING COMBS (REGULAR AND ELECTRIC) CONSTRUCTION: Quality stainless steel or brass. HANDLES: Usually made of wood or substance that does not readily absorb heat. TEETH: More space between teeth produces a coarse or open-looking press. Less space between teeth produces a smoother press. Shorter combs are used with short hair and long combs are used with long hair. TEMPERING THE COMB: Allows the brass to hold heat evenly along the entire length of the comb which gives better results. Tempering also burns off any polish the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb. Place comb in heating appliance until very hot. Remove comb. Coat in petroleum or pressing oil. Cool and rinse

Pressing Combs (continued)
Heating the comb Testing the temperature Attachment Cleaning the comb HEATING THE COMB: Regular combs are heated on a gas stove or in an electric heater. During heating, teeth should face up and handle should be kept away from fire. Some combs have an on/off switch; others have a thermostat that indicates degrees of heat. TESTING THE TEMPERATURE: Test on light piece of paper; if paper becomes scorched, allow comb to cool slightly before applying to hair. ATTACHMENT: The attachment fits the nozzle of a standard hand-held blow-dryer and is less damaging than an electric comb or an oven-heated comb. CLEANING THE COMB: Combs are more efficient if kept clean and free of carbon. Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and dust. Intense heat keeps comb sterile once all loose hair or clinging dirt is removed. Remove carbon by rubbing outside surface and between teeth with emery board, a fine-steel wool pad, or fine sandpaper. Immerse metal portion in hot baking-soda solution for one hour. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Metal should acquire a smooth and shiny appearance.

Pressing Combs (continued)
Cleaning the comb Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris. Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine sandpaper. Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Pressing Oil Benefits Makes hair softer Prepares hair for pressing
Prevents hair from burning Helps prevent breakage Conditions hair after pressing Adds sheen Helps retain press

Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair
17-17 Soft Curl Press Procedure will be covered during practical class. SOFT PRESSING FOR NORMAL CURLY HAIR: We will review the complete procedure for soft curl pressing during the practical class. You should be aware that the only difference between a soft curl press and a hard press is that the entire procedure is repeated during a hair press. Pressing oil should be added to hair strands only if necessary.

What to Avoid When Pressing
Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt) Perfumed pressing oil near scalp Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)

Reminders and Hints Keep comb clean and carbon free.
Avoid overheating pressing comb. Test comb temperature. Adjust temperature. Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin. Prevent smoking/burning of hair. Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape.

Injuries Immediate physical damage Not immediately evident INJURIES
There are two types of injuries: Immediate physical damage: These injuries are the immediate results of hair pressing and cause physical damage, such as burnt hair that breaks off, burnt scalp that causes either temporary or permanent loss of hair, and burns on the ears and neck that form scars. Not immediately evident: These injuries can later cause physical damage, such as a skin rash if the client is allergic to pressing oil, or the breaking and shortening of hair due to overly frequent hair pressings. HINT: In case of scalp burn, immediately apply 1 percent gentian violet jelly.

Special Considerations
Pressing fine hair Pressing short fine hair Pressing coarse hair Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS PRESSING FINE HAIR: Don’t use too much heat or pressure; apply less pressure near hair ends. PRESSING SHORT FINE HAIR: Take extra care at hairline and avoid excessive heat in comb. PRESSING COARSE HAIR: Extra pressure is needed for hair to remain straightened. PRESSING TINTED, LIGHTENED, OR GRAY HAIR: Lightened hair may require conditioning treatment; use moderately heated pressing comb applied with light pressure. Breakage and discoloration can occur on tinted, lightened, or gray hair if excessive heat is used.

Styling Long Hair: Updos
Valuable service Weddings Proms Other evening events STYLING LONG HAIR (UPDOS): When longer hair is arranged up and off the neck and shoulders and secured with pins or other implements, it is known as an updo. ANALOGY: Have you ever watched someone knit a sweater or create a design with macramé? Did you notice how he or she carefully laid out the yarn or jute, separating colors, and planning where ornamentation might need to go? Both require a great deal of organization and planning. The same theories apply in styling long hair. You need to have a plan; you need to appropriately section the hair and clip hair out of the way while you work. Let’s take a look at how to create some interesting styles and updos with long hair. VALUABLE SERVICE Weddings Proms Other evening events. Practicing basic techniques will help you improve your basic skills with long hair and allow you to express your creative talents.

Client Consultation Determine client desires.
For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring headpiece. Suggest trial run. If bridal, bring headpiece. CLIENT CONSULTATION First, you should determine the client's desires. If the consultation is for a wedding, use magazines with bridal pictures or other current styles; suggest a trial run before the actual wedding; and have client bring in her headpiece.

Styling Long Hair Knot: also called a chignon
Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie events (sometimes called a classic French twist) Procedures will be covered during practical class.

Summary and Review What is the purpose of finger waving?
What are the three parts of a pin curl? Name the four pin curl bases and their uses. SUMMARY AND REVIEW By practicing and mastering finger waving, you will develop the dexterity, coordination, and finger strength that will be of great benefit to you as a cosmetologist. This chapter has established that pin curls serve as the foundation for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used to create a wide variety of hairstyles for all ages. You have also learned that rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls, although rollers hold much more hair than pin curls, which saves time. In addition, rollers give a stronger and longer-lasting style due to the tension used in wrapping hair around the roller. You have also learned that styling the hair with a hand-held blow- dryer and curling iron has become a standard hairstyling technique. You can apply the principles of wet hairstyling with these quick service tools. First, mold the hair and then slice out a section. Establish the base with the brush and dryer or curling iron. Follow the stem or strand in the direction of the style, and finish the curl by creating a circle around the brush or rod. Then comb or brush the hair into the desired style and use light spray to add shine and holding power. This chapter has shown that hair pressing can be a very lucrative service in the salon and that good judgment should be used to avoid damage to the hair and scalp. Hair texture and density are key factors in determining which pressing procedure to use. Every precaution should be observed to ensure that the hair pressing is successful and the client’s welfare is maintained. This chapter has also covered the importance of becoming skillful in offering long-hair updos for those important events such as proms, weddings, and black-tie affairs. What is the purpose of finger waving? Answer: Finger waving is a process of shaping and directing the hair into a pattern of “S” shaped waves through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion. What are the three parts of a pin curl? Answer: The three parts of a pin curl are the base, stem, and circle. Name the four pin curl bases and their uses. Answer: Rectangular base pin curls are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth upsweep. Triangular base pin curls are recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle. Arc base pin curls, also known as half-moon or C-shape base curls, give good direction and may be used at the hairline or on the nape. Square base pin curls are suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift.

Summary and Review (continued)
Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each. What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing? How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow-drying? List and describe various styling products used in blow-drying. How is volume achieved with thermal curls? Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each. Answer: On-base roller placements are used for full volume, the roller sits directly on its base. Half-base roller placements provide a medium amount of volume. Off-base roller placements provide the least volume. What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing? Answer: Back combing and back brushing are the best ways to lift and increase volume, as well as to remove indentations caused by roller setting. How can you avoid burning the client's scalp during blow-drying? Answer: By never holding the dryer too long in one place and by always directing the hot air away from the client's scalp toward the ends of the hair. List and describe the various styling products used in blow-drying. Answer: Foam or mousse, gel, liquid gels, texturizers, straightening gels, volumizers, pomade, wax, silicone, hair spray. How is volume achieved with thermal curls? Answer: By placing the curl very high on its base, accomplished by holding the curl strand at a 135-degree angle and wrapping with medium tension.

List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons. Name and describe three types of hair presses. How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service? List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons. Answer: Use thermal irons only after receiving instruction in their use. Keep thermal irons clean. Do not overheat the iron; this can damage the ability of the iron to hold heat uniformly. Test the temperature of the iron on tissue paper or a damp towel before placing it on the hair. This will safeguard against burning the hair. Handle thermal iron carefully to avoid burning yourself or the client. Place hot irons in a safe place to cool. Do not leave them where someone might accidentally come into contact with them and be burned. When heating a conventional iron, do not place the handles too close to the heater. Your hand might be burned when removing the iron. Make sure the iron is properly balanced in the heater, or it might fall and be damaged or injure someone. Use only hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Celluloid combs must not be used in thermal curling, as they are flammable. Do not use metal combs; they can become hot and burn the scalp. Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curling or waving hair to prevent burning the scalp. The client’s hair must be clean and completely dry to ensure a good thermal curl or wave. Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this causes fishhooks (hair that is bent or folded). When ironing lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair always use a gentle heat setting. 10. Name and describe three types of hair presses. Soft press—removes 50% to 60% of the curl. Medium press—removes 60% to 75% of the curl. Hard press or double press—removes 100% of the curl. 11. How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service? Answer: Test the comb on a white cloth or white paper.

What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing? Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed? List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing hair. 12. What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing? Answer: That the hair and scalp be healthy and free from abrasions. If not healthy, give appropriate advice concerning corrective treatments. If there are signs of scalp skin disease, don’t diagnose; advise client to see a dermatologist. If signs of neglect or abuse are caused by faulty pressing, lightening, or tinting, recommend a series of conditioning treatments. 13. Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed? Answer: Hair should not be pressed if a client has scalp abrasions, a contagious scalp condition, a scalp injury, or chemically damaged hair. 14. List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing hair. Answer: Avoid excessive heat or pressure on the hair and scalp. Avoid too much pressing oil on the hair. Avoid perfumed pressing oil near the scalp if the client is allergic. Avoid overly frequent hair pressing. Keep the comb clean at all times. Avoid overheating the pressing combs if using a stove. Test the temperature of the heated comb on cloth or paper. Adjust the temperature of the comb to the texture and condition of the client’s hair. Be careful to avoid burning the skin, scalp, or hair. Dry the hair completely before pressing.

You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.
Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.

Chapter 17 Hairstyling.

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Chapter 17 Hairstyling.

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