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©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Permanent Waving Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology.

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Presentation on theme: "©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Permanent Waving Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology."— Presentation transcript:

1 ©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Permanent Waving Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology

2 “Results! Why, man, I have gotten lots of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work” Thomas A. Edison

3 Objectives List the factors of a hair analysis for chemical texture services Explain the physical and chemical actions that take place during permanent waving List and describe the various types of permanent waving solutions

4 Chemical Texture Services

5 Permanently Alter Wave Patterns Curl straight hair – add volume Straighten curly hair – smooth Soften coarse, straight hair

6 Types of Texture Services Permanent waving Soft-curl perms Chemical hair relaxing

7 Hair Structure Cuticle Strong compact cuticle Damaged cuticle

8 Cortex Medulla pH and texture Hair Structure

9 Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids Peptide bonds

10 Polypeptide chains Keratin proteins Side bonds Building Blocks of Hair

11 Side Bonds Disulfide bonds Salt bonds Hydrogen bonds

12 The Client Consultation Greet client Ask open-ended questions Determine haircolor use Review photos Determine texture service history

13 Determine how client styles her hair Determine desired results Perform hair analysis Fill out chemical record card The Client Consultation

14 Metallic Salts Test 1oz of 20-volume peroxide 20 drops of 28% ammonia Immerse 20 strands for 30 minutes Assess lightening

15 Client Records

16 Hair and Scalp Analysis Scalp abrasions Texture Density Porosity Elasticity Growth direction

17 Hair Texture Coarse hair Medium hair Fine hair

18 Hair Density Number of hairs per square inch Referred to as hair thickness

19 Hair Porosity Resistant hair Normal hair Porous hair

20 Elasticity and Growth Direction Normal Low Elasticity test

21 Permanent Waving Physical change – wrapping on rods Chemical change – perm solution and neutralizer Curl size determines rod

22 Perm Tools - Rods Concave Straight Long Short

23 Other Perm Rods Soft bender rods Loop rods

24 End Papers Double flat wrap Single flat wrap Bookend wrap

25 Sectioning Panels Base sections

26 Base Placement and Direction On-base Half-base Off-base Base direction

27 Wrapping Techniques Croquignole Spiral Piggyback

28 Chemistry of Perm Waving Reduction reaction: addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen Disulfide bond joins sulfur atoms Solution breaks a disulfide bond Sulfur atoms attach to solution hydrogen Once broken, polypeptide chains form in new shape

29 Reduction Reaction Reduction breaks disulfide bonds Oxidation reforms them

30 Reducing Agents Thio compounds Solution strength Thioglycolic acid Ammonium thioglycolate Perm pH

31 Perm Solution pH

32 The pH Scale

33 Types of Permanent Waves Alkaline waves or cold waves o Use ammonium thioglycolate o pH between 9.0 and 9.6 Acid waves o Use glyceryl monothioglycolate o pH between 4.5 and 7.0 o Require heat to speed processing

34 Acid-Balanced Waves pH of 7.8 to 8.2 Three components o Wave solution o Activator (contains GMTG) o Neutralizer

35 Other Types of Waves Exothermic Endothermic Ammonia-free Thio-free Low-pH o Use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites

36 Processed Hair Average processing time Overprocessed hair Underprocessed hair

37 Perm Selection

38 Perm Waving Neutralization Stage one: deactivates waving solution o Rinse thoroughly o Towel-blot o Apply a preneutralizing conditioner

39 Stage two: Rebuilds disulfide bonds Post-perm hair care Perm Waving Neutralization

40 Safety Precautions Protect client clothing Determine allergic reaction Examine scalp Determine extent of damage Determine prior hydroxide relaxer use Perform metallic salt test

41 Apply protective barrier Do not dilute or add ingredients Protect eyes and skin Follow manufacturer’s directions Wear gloves Replace wet cotton or towels Discard unused product Safety Precautions

42 Summary and Review What is the difference between end bonds and side bonds? Describe three types of side bonds

43 Summary and Review How do different services change side bonds? Explain the difference between croquignole and spiral wrapping How does the reduction reaction in a thio solution work?

44 What is the function of thio neutralization? Summary and Review

45 List and describe the 8 major types of permanent waving solutions Summary and Review

46 Congratulations! You’ve just completed one unit of study toward program completion!

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