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©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Cosmetology: Chemical Hair Relaxing Milady Standard Cosmetology.

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Presentation on theme: "©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Cosmetology: Chemical Hair Relaxing Milady Standard Cosmetology."— Presentation transcript:

1 ©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Cosmetology: Chemical Hair Relaxing Milady Standard Cosmetology

2 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY We all live in suspense from day to day, from hour to hour; in other words, we are the hero of our own story Mary McCarthy

3 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Objectives Understand the procedure for chemical hair relaxing Understand the difference between hydroxide and thio relaxers Understand the difference between hydroxide and thio neutralizers Explain the basic procedure for a curl reforming service

4 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Chemical Hair Relaxers Ammonium thioglycolate Sodium hydroxide

5 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Characteristics Highly alkaline Can melt or dissolve hair

6 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Extremely Curly Hair Exists in all races Grows in long twisted spirals or coils Cross-sections are elliptical and vary in shape and thickness Irregular in strand diameter Weakest sections located at twists

7 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Thio Relaxers Main ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate or ATG (higher concentration than in permanent wave solution) pH above 10 Higher viscosity than perm solution Break disulfide bonds and soften hair

8 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Thio Neutralization Oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide) Rebuilds disulfide bonds

9 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hydroxide Relaxers Active ingredient = hydroxide ion Types Strong alkalis –Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide Incompatible with thio relaxers pH of 13.0 or higher Lanthionization

10 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hydroxide Neutralization Does not involve oxidation Alkaline residues are deactivated by: –Acid-balanced shampoo –Normalizing lotion

11 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Metal Hydroxide Relaxers Ionic compounds formed by metal: –Sodium (Na), potassium (K), lithium (Li), which are combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H) Include sodium hydroxide (NaOH), potassium hydroxide (KOH), and lithium hydroxide (LiOH)

12 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Sodium hydroxide commonly called lye relaxers Lithium and potassium hydroxide called no mix – no lye relaxers Metal Hydroxide Relaxers

13 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers Require two components that must be mixed Straighten hair completely Less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers Recommended for sensitive scalps Do not reduce hair damage

14 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Low pH Relaxers Sulfites and bisulfites Most common: ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite Characteristics –Mild alternative relaxers –Compatible with thio relaxers –Do not straighten extremely curly hair

15 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Thermal Ionic Reconstructors Thio relaxer Use double hot blow-dry Use double hot press with flat irons

16 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Selecting the Correct Relaxer

17 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Base and No-Base Relaxers Base relaxer –Requires application of base cream –Cream protects skin and scalp No-base relaxer –Protective base not required –Base cream melts at body temperature –Protective cream may be applied around ears and hairline

18 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Relaxer Strengths Mild Regular Super

19 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY General Procedures Virgin relaxer –Applied ¼ to 2 from scalp to porous ends –Apply to scalp hair or ends for last few minutes Relaxer retouch –Applied ¼ to ½ from scalp and includes new growth only; apply to scalp for last few minutes Normalizing solution

20 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Periodic Strand Testing Determine when hair is sufficiently relaxed Stretch strands Smooth and press strand to scalp using back of comb or finger If strand remains smooth, its relaxed If curl returns, continue processing

21 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Strand Test Results

22 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hydroxide Relaxer Materials Hydroxide relaxer Hydroxide neutralizer Protective base cream Acid-balanced shampoo Conditioner Bowl and brush Shampoo cape Towels Plastic clips Styling comb Plastic tail comb Spray bottle Disposable gloves Timer

23 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Preparation Wash hands Do hair and scalp analysis Conduct client consultation Change into gown, remove jewelry Drape client and shampoo

24 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Procedure Section and clip hair Protect client Begin application

25 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Work down section toward hairline Continue application Smooth with back of comb Process and do strand test Procedure

26 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Work relaxer to scalp Rinse thoroughly Procedure

27 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Neutralization Procedure Optional: Apply normalizing lotion Shampoo 3 times Rinse thoroughly and condition Style as desired

28 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Cleanup and Sanitation Discard disposable supplies Disinfect and store implements Sanitize workstation Wash hands Complete client record

29 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch Work on dry hair Protect hands Apply relaxer Continue application

30 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Continue application; finish most resistant sections Smooth sections Process and do strand test Work relaxer to scalp Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch

31 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Work relaxer to ends Rinse thoroughly Neutralize Standard cleanup Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch

32 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Thio Relaxer Procedure Procedure is exactly the same as for virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer

33 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Thio Neutralization Blot excess water Optional: Apply pre-neutralizing conditioner and rinse Rinse, condition, and style

34 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Thio Relaxer Retouch Follow preparation and application procedure for hydroxide retouch Follow the virgin thio relaxer neutralizing and cleanup procedures

35 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Soft Curl Perm Materials Thio cream relaxer Thio curl booster Preneutralizing conditioner Thio neutralizer Protective base Acid-balanced shampoo Conditioner Bowls Applicator brush Applicator bottles Shampoo cape Neutralizing bib Disposable gloves Cotton coil or rope Towels and clips Combs and rods End papers Spray bottle Timer

36 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Preparation Wash hands Perform client consultation Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses and jewelry Gently shampoo

37 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Soft Curl Perm Procedure Follow virgin hydroxide relaxer procedure Rinse and section Roll hair Continue wrapping

38 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Continue wrapping Place cotton Apply plastic cap Check cotton and towels Process Soft Curl Perm Procedure

39 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Check curl Rinse and towel-dry hair Neutralize Distribute remaining neutralizer Style as desired Soft Curl Perm Procedure

40 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Safety Precautions Do thorough hair analysis and consultation Examine scalp for abrasions Keep accurate and detailed records Obtain release statement signature Do not apply hydroxide over thio Do not apply thio over hydroxide Do not relax over metallic dyed hair

41 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Do not relax overly damaged hair Do not shampoo before applying hydroxide relaxer Apply hydroxide relaxer on dry hair Apply protective base Wear gloves Protect clients eyes; flush immediately Do not allow relaxer to contact ears, scalp, or skin Safety Precautions

42 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Perform periodic strand tests Avoid scratching scalp Do not overlap relaxer Do not use strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair Do not remove more than 80% of curl Thoroughly rinse Safety Precautions

43 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Use normalizing lotion Use normalizing shampoo Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb Do not use hot irons Practice caution at all times Safety Precautions

44 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Summary and Review What is lanthionization?

45 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Summary and Review What is the major difference between thio and hydroxide relaxers? What is the difference between thio and hydroxide neutralizers?

46 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Explain the procedure for a soft curl permanent Summary and Review

47 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY List at least 10 safety precautions for permanent waving, soft curl permanents, and chemical hair relaxers Summary and Review

48 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Congratulations! Youve just completed one unit of study toward program completion!


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