1. FASH 15 textiles
basic weaves & fabrics

2. basic weaves & fabrics
a fabric is a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into 2- or 3-dimensional products that require some shaping & flexibility
fabric quality describes many characteristics:
freedom from defects
uniform structure & appearance
production performance
consumer performance
important to textile producers, designers, retailers & consumers

3. woven fabrics
made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles
warp yarns—yarns in lengthwise direction (ends)
filling yarns—yarns in crosswise direction (weft)
common characteristics:
many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to fabric
yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides
fabrics have grain
fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

4. the loom hand looms air-jet loom rapier loom projectile loom
hand looms
air-jet loom
rapier loom
projectile loom
circular loom

5. characteristics of woven fabrics
warp & filling differentiation
selvage is always parallel to lengthwise direction (warp)
most fabrics have a lower elongation in warp direction
warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabrics because of loom tension
fancy or special-function yarns are usually in the filling direction
fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and filling directions—EXAMPLE: poplin has filling rib; satin has warp floats
warp yarns tend to have higher twist & are similar and more uniform in structure and appearance
fabric crimp is usually greater for filling yarns since they must curve over or under warp yarns due to
loom operation
warp yarn count tends to be higher
than filling yarn count
if yarn-dyed stripes are in one
direction only they tend to be in
the warp direction

6. characteristics of woven fabrics
grain—geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns
on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to warp yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling yarns
off-grain fabrics create problems in production & use—do not drape properly or hang evenly and printed designs are not straight

7. characteristics of woven fabrics
fabric count—
number of warp and filling yarns per square inch
indication of quality—higher count, better quality
balance—
ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric
balanced fabric 1:1
selvage—
lengthwise self-edge of a fabric
formed differently on different looms

8. characteristics of woven fabrics
fabric width—
loom determines fabric width
handwoven—narrow (27-36 inches)
commercial—exceed 60 inches
consumer market—45-60 inches or 54-60
fabric weight
describes how much a given area or length of fabric weighs
important—identify appropriate use & name
lightweight/top weight—weigh < 4.0 oz/sq yd
medium weight— oz/sq yd
heavyweight/bottom weight— weight > 6.0 oz/sq yd

9. naming & diagramming woven fabrics
fabric names are based on:
fabric structure
fabric weight
yarn type
yarn balance
finishes

11. plain weave simplest of the three basic weaves
formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other
least expensive weave to produce
no technical face or back unless printed
general characteristics:
tend to wrinkle easily
less absorbent than other weaves
raveling less of a problem
yarn type greatly influences
these characteristics
CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

12. balanced plain weave simplest plain weave
warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance apart
wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other weave
most widely used type of woven fabric
can be made in any weight
lightweight sheer—georgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza
lightweight opaque—lawn, batiste, China silk, habutai, challis
medium-weight—percale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished cotton, glazed chintz) muslin, flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray, madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop taffeta, true crepe
heavyweight—weaver’s cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap, hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

13. unbalanced plain weave
significantly more yarns in one direction than the other
creates rib—ridges of varying size depending upon number & size of yarns
lightweight ribbed fabrics—crepe de chine
medium-weight ribbed fabrics—broadcloth, taffeta, shantung
heavyweight ribbed fabric—poplin, faille, rep, bengaline, ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord

14. basket weave
made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings
interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same parallel path
most common are 2x2 or 4x4
variations include 2x1 and 2x3
fabrics that have a basket weave:
dimity
oxford cloth
sailcloth
duck
canvas
hopsacking
monk’s cloth

15. twill weave
each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or the left
forms a distinct diagonal line or wale
can be made on a simple loom
have technical face & back—face has most pronounced wale
fewer interlacings allow yarns to
move more freely
softer, more pliable & recover
better from wrinkles
soil shows less on uneven face
of twill weave than plain weave
CREATE A TWILL WEAVE

16. even-sided twill weave
expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn on each side of fabric
reversible
even-sided twill weave fabrics:
foulard or surah
serge
twill flannel
sharkskin
herringbone
houndstooth

17. warp-faced twill weave
have predominance of warp yarns on face
stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling
warp-faced twill weave fabrics:
lining twill
denim
jean
drill
covert
chino
gabardine
cavalry twill
fancy twill

18. satin weave
each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or the left
can be produced on simple loom
lustrous because of long floats on surface
yarns can be packed very closely together
face & back look significantly different
high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind repellency
fewer interlacings gives
pliability and wrinkly resistance,
but yarns may snag, slip or
unravel easily
CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

19. satin weave satin weave fabrics—
satin—warp faced (warp floats cover surface), filament yarns
crepe-back satin—crepe yarns give softness & drapeability
sateen—spun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp sateen