1. Color Theory
What is color?

2. What is it?
Color is the visual perception of the reflection of light.

3. Law of Color Only three colors, called primary “pure” colors
Yellow, red and blue

4. Secondary Colors Two primary colors mixed in varying proportions =
Orange
Green
Violet

5. Color Wheel 12 –hue color circle created from the three primary colors
Name of a color referred to as tone or hue, identified by its position on the color wheel.
Tone can be described as warm, cool or neutral.

6. Warm and Cool Colors
Colors can be classified as either warms or cool colors

7. Complementary Colors Opposite one another on the color wheel.
When mixed equally they neutralized each other

8. Characteristics of Color
Color has three main characteristics
Hue- identified based on it’s position on the color wheel
Value/level degree of lightness or darkness of a color relative to itself and other colors
Intensity- the vividness, brightness or saturation within its own level

9. Identifying Existing Color
Contributing color + Artificial Color = Final color result

10. Melanin Two types of melanin in the cortex of the hair
Eumelamin-black pigment
Pheomelamin- red pigment

11. Gray Hair Melanocytes slow down production Strands lose color Heredity
Different patterns of gray
Percentages of gray vary with individuals

12. Applications for Gray
75-80% gray hair; adjust color formula to one level darker than desired level
25-30% gray; apply a color one level lighter than the desired shade

13. Gray Hair
Pre-soften resistant hair or pre-lighten to increase porosity

14. Hair Color Chemistry Types of hair color
Non-oxidative-non-reactive, direct dyes that only coat the surface of the hair shaft/ nothing to lighten and no chemical changes occur. Certified colors used in foods, drug and cosmetics last until shampooed out

15. Non-Oxidative Color Semi-permanent
Last through several shampoos, dye molecules in solution capable of penetrating the cuticle layer, smaller in size, slightly alkaline.

16. Oxidative Hair Color
Demi-uses low volume peroxide developer, only add color to the hair, cannot lift hair color

17. Permanent Hair Colors Combined with peroxide, chemical reaction occurs
Small molecules penetrate the hair, oxidize in the cortex and link to form a permanent colored molecule

18. Permanent Hair Colors
Also referred to as aniline derivative tints/ penetrate the cuticle and cortex, remain until they are removed by chemical means, hair grows out and is cut off.
Main ingredient is paraphenylene diamine
24 hour patch test must
Be given before any permanent
Hair color application
To ensure the client is not
Allergic to the product

19. Lighteners
Bleaching or de-colorizing, used when a lighter hair color is desired
Involves the oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair.
Hair goes through several stages of color changes as it is lightened

20. Types of Lighteners On-the-scalp lighteners
Gentle can be applied directly on the scalp
Oil lighteners pH 9
Cream lighteners pH 9
Off- the- scalp
Powder bleach, alkaline salts and strong oxidizing agents. Stronger than oil or cream

21. Developers Hydrogen peroxide (H²O²) most common oxidizing agent
Volume = amount of oxygen gas removed from solution. Also called developer

22. Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
Not professionally used
Contain vegetable dyes
Metallic salts and or combination of the two
Henna
Interfere with other professional beauty services
Can be toxic to the client and the operator