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Haircoloring Color Theory Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology ©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

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Presentation on theme: "Haircoloring Color Theory Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology ©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved."— Presentation transcript:

1 Haircoloring Color Theory Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology ©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved

2 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY The only thing that makes life possible is permanent, intolerable uncertainty, not knowing what comes next Ursula K. Le Guin

3 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Objectives Identify principles of color theory and relate them to haircolor Explain level and tone and their role in formulating haircolor List four basic categories of haircolor, explain their chemical effect on hair, and give examples of their use Explain the action of lighteners

4 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Why Do People Color Their Hair? Cover up or blend gray hair Enhance existing haircolor Create a fashion or self expression statement Correct unwanted tones Accentuate a particular haircut

5 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hair Structure Cuticle Cortex Medulla

6 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Texture Coarse Medium Fine

7 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Density Number of hairs per square inch Refers to hair thickness

8 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Porosity Low porosity Average porosity High porosity Test for porosity

9 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Natural Hair Color Melanin in the cortex –Eumelanin –Pheomelanin –Contributing pigment

10 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY The Level System Unit of measurement Identifies lightness or darkness Arranged on scale of 1 to 10 1 being darkest 10 being lightest

11 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Tone - Intensity Tone or hue is balance of color –Warm –Cool Intensity refers to strength of color tone

12 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Identifying Natural Level Crown area Match swatches Compare to hair strand Determine level Gray hair

13 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Color Theory Base colors –Violet –Blue –Red-orange –Gold

14 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Law of Color

15 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Primary Colors Blue Red Yellow

16 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Secondary Colors Green Orange Violet

17 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Tertiary Colors Blue-green Blue-violet Red-orange

18 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Complementary Colors Blue and orange Red and green Yellow and violet

19 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Categories of Haircolor Nonoxidative –Temporary –Semipermanent Oxidative –Demipermanent –Permanent

20 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hair Lightening Diffuses natural or artificial pigment Developer is oxidizing agent Contains alkalizing ingredient

21 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Temporary Color Does not penetrate cuticle layer Coats hair shaft Neutralizes unwanted tones Available in variety of colors and products

22 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Semipermanent Lasts several shampoos Penetrates hair shaft; stains cuticle layer Fades with each shampoo Non-oxidation

23 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Demipermanent Deposits color; does not lift Ideal for: –Covering unpigmented hair –Refreshing faded permanent color –Depositing tonal changes –Corrective color –Reverse highlighting

24 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Darkens haircolor Causes little or no damage Available in gel, cream, or liquid Demipermanent

25 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Permanent Matches, lightens, covers Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide Contains aniline derivatives Removes natural pigment while adding artificial color

26 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Natural Haircolors From leaves or bark of plants No lightening Limited shade range Professional products cannot be applied over

27 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Metallic Haircolor Contains metal salts Facilitates progressive buildup Requires daily application

28 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Hydrogen Peroxide Oxidizing agents or catalysts pH between 2.5 and 4.5 H 2 O 2 Volume –Lower volume, less lift –Higher volume, greater lift

29 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Purpose of Lighteners Lighten prior to color application Lighten to a desired shade Brighten and lighten existing shade Lighten only certain parts of hair Lighten dark natural or color-treated levels

30 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Decolorizing Process Hair goes through up to 10 stages

31 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Contribution to Underlying Pigment Decolorize to appropriate level Apply new color Use toner to achieve pale color Never lift past pale yellow

32 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Summary and Review List primary, secondary, and tertiary colors Name two types of melanin

33 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Summary and Review Define level, tone, and intensity What are the classifications of haircolor?

34 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Why is a patch test important? What is a strand test? What is the role of ammonia in a haircolor formula? What is the role of hydrogen peroxide in a haircolor formula? Summary and Review

35 MILADYS Standard Instructor Support Slides COSMETOLOGY Congratulations! Youve just completed another unit of study toward program completion


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