Principles of Hair Design Chapter 14 2012edition Principles of Hair Design
Design is: * foundation of all artistic applications Designers have a strong visual eye *design the best hairstyle for your client
Analyze the entire person * elements and principles of design * enhance positive features * minimize negative ones Develop artistic skill and judgment
Bestfashions.blogspot.com Celebhairstyles.wordpress.com
Trendynewhairstyles.blogspot.com
Philosophy of Design See the end result before beginning Inspiration comes from: * movies, TV, magazines… * sparks the creative process Best source * found in nature
Hairstyle from an earlier time * inspire you Follows fashion trends *create the total look
Decide: * tools and techniques needed to achieve design -cutting shears, flat irons, perm, color, etc develop or practice a technique
Be open to change *creative process -exciting and satisfying Develop a visual understanding * styles work best -face shapes -body types
Train your eye Review these pages over and over Best teacher * time * trial-and-error process * experience
Strong design foundation * great stylist * creative juices * beyond the basics * take calculated risks “safe” = “dull”
“cookie cutter” stylist * everyone gets the same haircut or design Explore new possibilities * customizing your design -individual needs and lifestyle Think out of the box
Matriz.com thestar.com
Great hairstylists: * find inspiration everywhere * keeping an eye out for what is new * dedicate themselves to their continuing education Have your eyes and mind always open to learning
Elements of Hair Design Five basic elements of design Line Form Space Texture Color
Line Defines form and space Creates * shape * design *movement Eye follows * straight or curved
Horizontal lines * width * same direction * constant distance apart
Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com Hairstyle-blog.com
Vertical lines * length and height * appear longer * narrower Bestwomenstyle.com hairfinder.com
Diagonal lines * between -horizontal -vertical lines Emphasize *minimize facial features Creates interest
Hubpages.com Nowchic.com
Just-for-mom.kaboose.com Zimbio.com
Curved lines * soften a design Full circle * part of a circle Horizontally, vertically, or diagonally Repeating in opposite directions create a wave
Latesthairstyle.net Latest-hairstyles.com Beauty.about.com
Designing with Lines Created by type of line, direction, or combination Single lines * one length hairstyles * lowest maintenance
Toniandguy.com.au
Parallel lines * repeating lines * straight or curved * more interest Finger wave * curved parallel lines
Blacknews.com Mirror.co.uk Healthytextures.typepad.com
Contrasting lines * horizontal and vertical lines -meeting at a 90 degree angle Creates a hard edge Strong look
z.about.com Hypnoticsalon.com
Transitional lines * curved lines * blend and soften - horizontal - vertical lines Haircutshairstyles.com Hairstyles53.com
Form General outline of the hairstyle Three-dimensional * length * width * depth Volume
Silhouette * overall design * client will respond to first In proportion * shape of the head and face * length and width of the neck * shoulder line
Lifeandtrend.com Fashionhaircuts.blogspot.com Short-hairstyles-pictures.blogspot.com
Space Area the hairstyle occupies Every angle * keep in mind - forms being created - spaces as well Curls, waves, straight hair, or any combination
Hairstyles.hairboutique.com Modelbride.com Romance-fire.com
Design Texture Wave patterns Described as * straight * wavy * curly * extremely curly
Straight hair reflects light * single line haircut Wavy hair * combed into horizontal lines Curly and extremely curly * do not reflect much light * coarse to the touch
* larger form than straight or wavy hair Curly hair * larger form than straight or wavy hair Beauty.abut.com Diylusional.livejournal.com
Creating Design texture with Styling Tools * temporary * heat or wet Curling iron or hot rollers * wave or curl
Setssalon.ca amozon.com Appliance.com Bridalwave.tv Hair-style-magazine.cm
Rollers/pin curls/finger waves *temporary textured pattern changes Curly hair * straightened Crimping irons * interesting zigzags Rollers/pin curls/finger waves *temporary textured pattern changes Blisssalonstore.com
Hairs.com Hairs.com jouez.blogspot.com Madhatta.buzznet.com Hubpages.com
Changing Design Texture With Chemicals Permanent * until new hair grows in Curly hair * straightened Straight hair *curled with permanent waves
Tips for Designing with Wave Patterns Many wave pattern combinations * overly busy look * multitextured -less appropriate for professionals Community.livejournal.com Popgloss.com
Smooth wave patterns * accent the face Use to narrow a round head shape *** make smaller Curly wave patterns * attention away from the face * soften square or rectangular features
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com Easycurls.com Beauty.about.com Community.livejournal.com
Color Important role in hair design * visually * psychologically * appear larger or smaller * defines texture and line * ties design elements together
z.about.com Yourhaircolorideas.com Hairbrained.wordpress.com
Dimension with Color Light and warm * illusion of volume Dark and cool * recede or move in toward the head * illusion of less volume Illusion of dimension *lighter and warmer colors alternate with darker and cooler colors
Withintheblackcommunity.blogspot.com Short-hair-style.com Profile.myspace.com
Lines with Color Eye is drawn to the lightest color * light color to draw a line in a hairstyle * direction you want the eye to travel A single line of color *bold, dramatic accent
Music.kpopshare.com Profile.myspace.com Thecuttingchair.com Naturallycurlyhair.com
Color Selection Tone compatible with the skin Gold tone in skin * warm hair colors in hair Natural tones * two or more colors * similar tones * within two levels of each other
Strong contrast is attention grabbing Trendy and can carry off a bold look Flickr.com Fotolia.com
Principles Of Hair Design Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony *basis of hair design Understanding these principles * more confidence * creating styles that are pleasing to the eye
Proportion Comparative relationship * one thing to another Very small chin/very wide forehead *not in proportion A well-chosen hairstyle *illusion of better proportion
Body proportion Essential * client’s body shape and size Challenges * hair form too small * too large Large hips or broad shoulders * more volume
Naturallycurly.com Cury-hair-styles-magazine.com
Large hair * out of proportion on a petite woman Hair should not: * be wider than the center of the shoulders
Beyond center of shoulder G-ecx.images.amazon.com Cute-hair-cuts.blogspot.com
Balance Equal or appropriate proportions *create symmetry Height to width Symmetrical or asymmetrical Dissatisfied *style is out of balance
Measure symmetry * divide the face * four equal parts Style * pleasing to the eye * in correct balance
Symmetrical balance Imaginary line * through the center of the face * two halves -mirror image of one another Both sides same distance same length same volume
Zimbio.com Bridal-hair-styles.com Kaboodle.com Pro.corbis.com
Asymmetrical balance Imaginary halves *equal visual weight *appear equal but positioned unevenly Opposite sides * different lengths * different volume Can be horizontal or diagonal
Hji.co.uk hairextensiions,.network.com Hairstylescut.com
Fast rhythm-tight curls Recurrent patttern Fast rhythm-tight curls Slow rhythm-larger shaping/long waves Fashiontribes.typepad.com Stylebell.files.wordpress.com
Emphasis Draws the eye first *rest of the design Create interest: * Wave patterns * Color * Change in form * Ornamentation
Easy-hairstyles.com Beautytwist.com Brides.com Hairstyles53.com
* easy for the eye to follow Multiple points *decrease in size Choose * want to emphasize Design simple * easy for the eye to follow Multiple points *decrease in size -importance Remember, less is more Hubpages.com
Harmony Creation of unity * most important principle * holds all of the elements of the design together * a form with interesting lines * pleasing color
* combination of color and textures * balance and rhythm -strengthen the design Never too busy
In proportion * facial and body structure * area of emphasis Facial features * analyzed * strengths and weaknesses
*** Most important point in this chapter!!! Your job * accentuate a client’s best features *downplay features that do not add to the person’s appearance
Artistic and suitable hairstyle *physical characteristics Shape of the head * front * profile * back Features (perfect and imperfect) Body posture
Influence of Hair Type on Hairstyle * major consideration Two characteristics: * wave pattern * hair texture
Considerations: * natural wave patterns * texture * density choosing a style
Fine, straight hair * hugs the head shape * no body or volume * styling aids or chemical services
Salonbliss.com Lovehair.blogspot.com Bellasugar.com
Straight, medium hair * more versatility * responds well to blow-drying * good amount of movement
Antonshairstudio.com Celebrityhairstyle.blogspot.com
* slightly wider silhouette *use flat brushes Straight, coarse hair * hard to curl * more volume * slightly wider silhouette *use flat brushes Bellaonline.com Hairstyle-blog.com
* thermal styling * flat brush * blow-dryer/round brush -too “poofy” * chemical services may take a little longer
Wavy, fine hair * appear fuller - appropriate haircut - style * layering - fuller Lovehair.blogspot.com Haircutsfashion.com
* responds - blow-drying - chemical services * can be fragile * diffused -fuller appearance
Wavy, medium hair * most versatility * easily straightened * diffused * easily straightened - blow-drying Hairthursday.com
Wavy, coarse hair * silhouette can get very wide * unruly if not shaped properly * flattering shape -easy to maintain * soft perm for wash–and-wear curly style *chemical relaxer
43things.com Beauty.about.com Todaystylist.com
Curly, fine hair * separates * revealing scalp * mild relaxers * color services *blowdrying not effective in humid environment Naturallycurly.com Marieclaire.com
Curly, medium hair * wide silhouette *natural -soft romantic look Healthyhairplus.com Hairthursday.com
* wide silhouette - proportion to body shape * shaping - weight line * responds - relaxers - color
Curly, coarse hair * heavy styling products *shrinks when dry -appears much shorter Hairthursday.com
Very curly, fine hair * most flattering shape - determined first - ease of styling * best if cut short
Haircutsfashion.com Awonderfuleverything.com
-extremely voluminous * chemical services * pressing * may be fragile * left long - wide -extremely voluminous * chemical services * pressing * may be fragile Delush.com
Extremely curly, medium hair * silhouette - very wide -looks wider rather than longer * chemical relaxers * hair pressing
* natural state - close to the head - ease of styling - low maintenance Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
Extremely curly, coarse hair * extremely wide * chemical relaxing * often too thick - ponytail * easy care hair - short, cropped layers Enotalone.com
Facial types Facial shape * position and prominence * facial bones Determine * hair off of the face * observe
* Triangle (pear-shaped) * Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) * Diamond Seven basic facial shapes: * Oval * Round * Square * Oblong * Triangle (pear-shaped) * Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) * Diamond Hair completely off the face, observe
- most flattering design * create the illusion ~ oval-shaped face * recognize each - style the hair - most flattering design * create the illusion ~ oval-shaped face *** “perfect shaped face” and can wear any hairstyle
Divide the face into three zones: * forehead to eyebrows * eyebrows to end of nose * end of nose to bottom of chin
Add: 1/3 1/3 1/3
* basis for modifying all other facial types Oval Facial Type * basis for modifying all other facial types Shapeyourstyle.com
Facial contour * about 1 ½ times longer - width across the brow * forehead is slightly wider - chin
~ length and shape of nose ~ profile * any hairstyle - considerations ~ eyeglasses ~ length and shape of nose ~ profile Shapeyourstyle.com
Celebrity examples: Jewel Cameron Diaz Elle MacPherson Julia Roberts Sharon Stone
Round Facial Type Facial contour: * round hairline * round chin line * wide face Hairstyles-blog.com
* height or volume on top * closeness or no volume at the sides Objective: * illusion of length * slimmer Styling choice: * height or volume on top * closeness or no volume at the sides Shapeyourstyle.com
Celebrity examples: Kate Winslet Drew Barrymore Christina Ricci Catherine Zeta-Jones
Square Facial Type Facial Contour: * wide at temples * narrow at middle third of face * squared off at jaw Objective: * offset or round out square features
Styling choice: * soften the hair - temples and jaw * close to the head * create volume - temple and jaw - width at the ear
Celebrity examples: Sandra Bullock Demi Moore Holly Marie Combs Kristin Scott Thomas Blog.fashionwindows.com Shapeyourstyle.com
Triangular (pear-shaped) Facial Type Facial contour: * narrow forehead * wide jaw * wide chin line Objective: * illusion of width - forehead
* hide narrowness of forehead Styling choices: * volume at the temples * height at top * hide narrowness of forehead - bangs (soft fringe) Styletips101.com
Celebrity example: Kathy Ireland Hairdohairstyles.com Rottentomatoes.com
Oblong Facial Type Facial contour: * long, narrow face * hollow cheeks Objective: * make face appear - shorter - wider
Styling choice: * keep close to top of head - no volume * volume to sides - illusion of width * hair not long * chin length
Celebrity examples: Kirstie Alley Ron Pearlman Liv Tyler Stephanie Seymour http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.mylot.com/userImages/images/postphotos/198476.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mylot.com/w/photokeywords/liv%2Btaylor.aspx&h=375&w=500&sz=32&tbnid=yaiKw9OK4ClxyM:&tbnh=101&tbnw=134&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dliv%2Btaylor%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=liv+taylor&docid=kTBHAaZL1RKkaM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=84ZqT7iZJ4Xa0QH6tbznBg&sqi=2&ved=0CDEQ9QEwAQ&dur=612
Babble.com
Diamond Facial Type Facial contour: * narrow forehead * extreme width through cheekbones * narrow chin
Objective: * reduce width across the cheekbone line Styling choice: * fullness - jawline - forehead
* close to head at cheekbone - create oval appearance Hairstyles-blog.com Beautynewsla.com
Celebrity example: Nicole Kidman http://images.google.com/imgres?q=diamond+shaped+face&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=5fztTXX99nCKPM:&imgrefurl=http://celebritiespicturezone.blogspot.com/2009/06/best-and-worst-hairstyles-for-your-face.html&docid=uZThGh1tPw977M&imgurl=http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_43RW_QStT2Y/SiUE7jyYz9I/AAAAAAAAJVg/ufK_8TDv5AU/s400/mr_4bb7b475d7fbcb.jpg&w=266&h=400&ei=_olqT6KNEsbTgAfbzpGoBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=609&vpy=211&dur=7156&hovh=275&hovw=183&tx=150&ty=276&sig=117154882344098738236&page=1&tbnh=125&tbnw=84&start=0&ndsp=23&ved=1t:429,r:20,s:0 Celebrity example: Nicole Kidman http://www.shoppinglifestyle.com/gallery/celebrityhairstyles/?pg=25 http://celebritiespicturezone.blogspot.com/2009/06/best-and-worst-hairstyles-for-your-face.html
Inverted Triangle Facial Type (Heart shape) Facial contour: * wide forehead * narrow chin line
Hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com Teamsugar.com
Objective: * decrease width - forehead * increase width - lower part of the face
Styling choice: * close to the head * no volume * bangs
*increase width - middle third - at cheekbone - near the ears * widest at the jaw -neck area Hairdos411.
Celebrity examples: Michelle Pfeiffer Jennifer Love Hewitt Ashley Judd
Profiles: * outline of the face - head - figure seen in a side view Straight profile * considered ideal - not convex or concave) * all hairstyles are flattering
Inmagine.com
* receding forehead and chin - curls or bangs over the forehead Convex profile * receding forehead and chin - curls or bangs over the forehead - close to the head at nape - move hair forward in the chin area Sciforums.com
Concave profile * prominent (sticks out) forehead and chin * others recede inward * softly style at the nape - upward movement - no hair on forehead
Straight face/prominent nose Concave http://feaginandowenplasticsurgery.com/before-after-gallery/17/rhinoplasty/nose.html Suddenlysenior.com
Special Considerations * apply design principles - balance facial structural challenges * divide face - three sections - do analysis
Top Third of the Face Wide forehead: * hair over the sides of the forehead Narrow forehead: * direct the hair away from the forehead * lighter highlights at temple - creates illusion of width
Receding forehead: * bangs over the forehead - volume Large forehead: * bangs with little or no volume
The Middle Third of the Face Close-set eyes: * on long, narrow faces * hair back away from the temples * diagonal part
- corner of the eyes - illusion of width * some height * lightening - corner of the eyes - illusion of width Madisonmag.com Hair-style-magazine.com
Wide-set eyes: * round or square faces * higher half bang - length in the face * illusion of the face being larger (longer)
- slightly darker at the sides * eyes - more proportional * hair - slightly darker at the sides Memefirst.com Zimbio.com
- off centered styles - attract the eye away from the nose Crooked nose: * asymmetrical - off centered styles - attract the eye away from the nose *symmetrical (remove “A”in book) - accentuates face is not even
Boston.com Flickr.com
* keep hair away from the face Wide, flat nose: * keep hair away from the face * center part - elongate and narrow the nose http://www.drdayan.com/surgery/conditions-nose.html
Long, narrow nose: Stay away from… * hair tapered close to the head * height on top * middle part * hair directed toward the face
* style hair away from face - illusion wider facial features Do… * style hair away from face - illusion wider facial features Rocketrend.wordpress.com
* hair swept off the face * off the forehead - length to the nose Small nose: * hair swept off the face * off the forehead - length to the nose Bordeglobal.com
* hair forward at forehead - softness around the face Prominent nose: * hair forward at forehead - softness around the face Starpulse.com
Lower Third of the Face Round jaw: * straight lines at jaw Square jaw: * curved lines at jaw Zimbio.com Shapeyourstyle.com
Long jaw: * hair full * fall below the jaw Gamespot.com
* hair forward in the chin area Small chin: * hair up and away Receding chin: * hair forward in the chin area Small chin: * hair up and away - chin line Sciforums.com Pulpcouture.livejournal.com
- longer or shorter than chin *avoid drawing attention Large chin: * hair - longer or shorter than chin *avoid drawing attention Cambridgeprivatehospital.co.uk
Head shape * not all are round * feel head shape - choosing hairstyle * design the style - volume in areas, flat and small - reduce volume for large or prominent areas
*** Pay close attention to head shape when performing: Add to side bar: *buzz cuts *French twists
Styling for People Who Wear Glasses * arm of the glasses - push the hair at the ear - cause it to stick out * short haircuts - little length around the ear - cut the hair above the ear
* best to use the natural part * challenging Hair Parts: * focal point * eye is drawn * best to use the natural part * challenging - working against a natural part *** often a trend/not always appropriate… Thehairstyler.com
Parts for the Bangs (Fringe) Bangs: * triangular section - begins at the apex - highest point of the head - ends at the front corners Hairdohairstyles.com
Triangular part * basic parting for fringe sections Diagonal part * height - round or square faces * width - long, thin faces
Thecreativestudio.com Dailymail.co.uk
Curved part * receding hairline * high forehead
Style parts: * highlight facial features Center parts are classic * oval faces * avoid - prominent noses *** less flattering features
Is this a good part for Sarah? Why or why not? Uk.fashion.popsugar.com
* thin hair appear fuller Side Parts * develop height on top * thin hair appear fuller Hair-craft.co.uk
Diagonal * illusion of width - height Zigzag * dramatic effect Short-hair-style.com Flickr.com
Designing for Men * all design principles and elements work for men * all hair lengths are acceptable * recommend styles - flattering - appropriate ~ lifestyle-career-hair type
Cool-mens-hairstyle.blogspot.com 123 hairstyles.com Professinalhaircare.blogspot.com
Menshairstylesonline.com Hairresources.com hairstyleshaircuts.info
***now men are * “metrosexuals” * care for themselves better than ever * growing market * impeccable skills - excellent customer service *key to successfully (lucratively) - providing services to this client base
Choosing Facial Hair Design *mustaches, beards, sideburns * camouflage facial flaws * no prominent chin - neatly trimmed full beard and mustache *wide face/full cheeks - close-trimmed beard/mustache
Menshair.about.com Teen.aol.com Lasfashionistas.blogspot.com
Menshair.about.com
Balding * closely trimmed hair * closely trimmed beard and mustache Sideburns, mustaches, beards * dictated by current trends/fashions * well-groomed and flattering