1. BONE STRUCTURE AND FACE SHAPE
HAIR DESIGN
BONE STRUCTURE AND FACE SHAPE
EACH PERSON’S FEATURES ARE UNIQUE. HOWEVER, THERE ARE CERTAIN FACTORS COMMON TO ALL FACE SHAPES, AND FAMILIARIZATION WITH THE MAJOR BONES OF THE HUMAN BODY, IN PARTICULAR THE HUMAN FACE, IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF YOUR TRAINING. THERE ARE ALSO PROPORTIONS IN THE MAJOR FEATURES WHICH ARE USEFUL AS A GUIDE TO BALANCE AND SUITABILITY.

2. “If the wrong hairstyle is created for the wrong face shape, the result is a disaster.”

3. BONE STRUCTURE HEAD EYES NOSE EARS MOUTH CHIN
Head: The distance from the chin to the crown is the same as that from the back of the head to the front hairline. The mid-point of the face, when measured from chin to crown, is at the base of the eye sockets.
Eyes: The space between the eyes is about the same width as one eye. If the width of the eye is used as a unit of measurement, the head is five eyes wide and seven eyes long. A measurement from pupil to pupil of each eye will be equal to the measurement from the bridge of the nose to its tip.
Nose: the bottom of the nose is the mid-point between the eyes and the chin.
Ears: Top of the ears align with the bridge of the nose and the outer tips of the eyebrows, and the bottom of the ears with the tip of the nose, so the length of the ears is equal to the length of the nose.
Mouth: corners of the mouth align with the centre of the eyes (when not smiling). The line where the two lips meet is slightly above the halfway point between the end of the nose and the chin. The mouth will always be a quarter of the way up the total measurement of the face from the chin.
Chin: outer edges of the mound of the chin align with the inner corners of the eyes.

4. lateral view of skull

5. MEASUREMENTS
Measure your face across the top of your cheekbones. Write down the measurement on a piece of paper.
Measure across your jaw line from the widest point to the widest point. Write down the measurement.
Measure across your forehead at the widest point. Generally the widest point will be somewhere about halfway between your eyebrows and your hairline. Write down the measurement.
Measure from the tip of your hairline to the bottom of your chin.
TO FIND OUT THE SHAPE OF YOUR FACE, MEASURE IT WITH A TAPE MEASURE OR RULER. YOU WILL TAKE THE FOLLOWING MEASUREMENTS.
WE WILL BE USING A TAPE MEASURE.
THERE ARE LOTS OF SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO FIGURE OUT YOUR SHAPE. THESE INCLUDE EVERYTHING FROM OUTLINING YOUR FACE ON A MIRROR WITH LIPSTICK TO DRAPING IT WITH A TOWEL AND ASKING OTHERS TO HELP YOU GUESS THE SHAPE.
THERE IS ACTUALLY A SCIENTIFIC WAY TO DETERMINE YOUR FACE SHAPE. THAT IS WHAT WE WILL DO TODAY.

6. 7 FACE SHAPES Round Square Oval Triangle Inverted triangle Diamond
Oblong
ROURND --- YOUR FACE IS AS WIDE AS IT IS LONG. THIS MAY VARY A LITTLE BUT GENERALLY THE MEASUREMENT IS CLOSE.
SQUARE----YOUR FACE IS ABOUT AS WIDE AS IT IS LONG.
OVAL LENGTH EQUAL TO ONE AND A HALF TIMES WIDTH.
TRIANGLE-----NARROW AT THE FOREHEAD WIDE AT CHEEKBONES AND JAW LINE
INVERTED TRIANGLE OR HEART----NARROW AT JAW LINE, WIDE AT CHEEKBONES/AND OR FOREHEAD.
DIAMOND----WIDEST AT CHEEKBONES, NARROW FOREHEAD AND JAW LINE OF APPROXIMATELY EQUAL WIDTHS.
OBLONG----LONGER THAN IT IS WIDE.

7. Round face: Full-looking face with a round chin and hairline.
Widest point is at the cheeks and ears.
Try----Styles with fullness and height at the crown. Off center parts help reduce the roundness. Short hair styles with a swept-back direction or hair styles that are longer than chin length. By layering the top to achieve fullness and keeping the rest of the cut relatively close to the face, your round face shape will appear longer and narrower.
Avoid----Chin length with round line. Center parts tend to accentuate roundness.
A round haircut ending at the chin will certainly add weight to your already round face shape.
Square: A strong, square jaw line and usually an equally square hairline.
Try----Short to medium length hair. Off-center parts with height at the crown look great. Layers and wispy
looks a round the face. Height at the crown it will elongate symmetrical shape. If hair is straight , a body wave would create
softness and a nice balance to the straight features of face shape.
Avoid-----Long straight styles that accentuate the square jawbone. Straight bangs or center parts aren’t the best choice.
A straight bob ending at the jaw line is the wrong thing to do for your face shape.
Layered bob can be worn, however it should end above or below the jaw line, not at the jaw.
Styling----When styling achieve some roundness to the shape and some height at the crown or bangs.
Oval: An oval face is considered the perfect shape.
Have you noticed the majority of models fall into the shape?
Have you noticed how many different hair styles they can wear?
They can wear short, medium and long hair styles. Oval face shape is well “balanced”, or in even proportion.
Best look when styling hair of the face.
Avoid-----Hair styles that cover up the perfect features with heavy bangs, or too forward-directed styles.
Wearing the hair style on the face, face shape will get lost behind the hair. This may appear to add weight to the face.
Style-----Off the face.
Triangle: A reverse inverted triangle or heart shape. A dominant jaw line with narrowing at the cheek bone and temples.
Try----Shorter hair that balances prominent jaw line.
Full at the temples and taper at the jaw are perfect for triangular shapes.
Off center parts, wedges and shags look great.
Lots of layers to achieve fullness through the upper part of the face.
Avoid----Fullness by cheek area and jaw line.
Hair styles that flip out at the jaw line not recommended.
Style---- Create fullness on sides above ears and top of the head.
Inverted triangle or heart shape: Face is wide at the temples and hairline, narrowing to a small chin.
Try-----Chin-length or longer. Fullness below chin.
Side parted hair or swept-forward layers around the upper face, with wispy bangs.
Chin-length bob is great.
Can wear short hair styles, but you need to leave weight in the back nape area.
Avoid—Short, full styles that emphasize the upper face.
Styles with too much height at the crown.
Style---Fullness below chin
Diamond: Narrow forehead, width by cheeks and narrow chin
Avoid----
Style-----
Oblong: Long and slender, same width at forehead and just below cheekbones.
Try----Short to medium lengths.
Fullness at the sides of face and wispy bangs soften the look of longer face shapes.
Layers work well, they will add softness to the straight lines in oblong face shape.
Avoid-Too much hair length, it will make the face look even longer.
Style—Add fullness and keep above shoulder length.

8. ROUND Round face: Full-looking face with a round chin and hairline.
Widest point is at the cheeks and ears.
Try----Styles with fullness and height at the crown. Off center parts help reduce the roundness. Short hair styles with a swept-back direction or hair styles that are longer than chin length. By layering the top to achieve fullness and keeping the rest of the cut relatively close to the face, your round face shape will appear longer and narrower.
Avoid----Chin length with round line. Center parts tend to accentuate roundness.
Style----A round haircut ending at the chin will certainly add weight to your already round face shape.
Round face: Full-looking face with a round chin and hairline.
Widest point is at the cheeks and ears.
Try----Styles with fullness and height at the crown. Off center parts help reduce the roundness. Short hair styles with a swept-back direction or hair styles that are longer than chin length. By layering the top to achieve fullness and keeping the rest of the cut relatively close to the face, your round face shape will appear longer and narrower.
Avoid----Chin length with round line. Center parts tend to accentuate roundness.
A round haircut ending at the chin will certainly add weight to your already round face shape.

9. SQUARE
Square: A strong, square jaw line and usually an equally square hairline.
Try----Short to medium length hair. Off-center parts with height at the crown look great. Layers and wispy looks around the face. Height at the crown it will elongate symmetrical shape. If hair is straight , a body wave would create softness and a nice balance to the straight features of face shape.
Avoid----Long straight styles that accentuate the square jawbone. Straight bangs or center parts aren’t the best choice.
A straight bob ending at the jaw line is the wrong thing to do for your face shape.
Layered bob can be worn, however it should end above or below the jaw line, not at the jaw.
Styling----When styling achieve some roundness to the shape and some height at the crown or bangs.
Square: A strong, square jaw line and usually an equally square hairline.
Try----Short to medium length hair. Off-center parts with height at the crown look great. Layers and wispy
looks a round the face. Height at the crown it will elongate symmetrical shape. If hair is straight , a body wave would create
softness and a nice balance to the straight features of face shape.
Avoid-----Long straight styles that accentuate the square jawbone. Straight bangs or center parts aren’t the best choice.
A straight bob ending at the jaw line is the wrong thing to do for your face shape.
Layered bob can be worn, however it should end above or below the jaw line, not at the jaw.
Styling----When styling achieve some roundness to the shape and some height at the crown or bangs.

10. oval Oval: An oval face is considered the perfect shape.
Have you noticed how many different hair styles they can wear?
They can wear short, medium and long hair styles. Oval face shape is well “balanced”, or in even proportion. Best look when styling hair off the face.
Avoid-----Hair styles that cover up the perfect features with heavy bangs, or too forward-directed styles.
Wearing the hair style on the face, face shape will get lost behind the hair. This may appear to add weight to the face.
Style-----Off the face.
Oval: An oval face is considered the perfect shape.
Have you noticed the majority of models fall into the shape?
Have you noticed how many different hair styles they can wear?
They can wear short, medium and long hair styles. Oval face shape is well “balanced”, or in even proportion.
Best look when styling hair of the face.
Avoid-----Hair styles that cover up the perfect features with heavy bangs, or too forward-directed styles.
Wearing the hair style on the face, face shape will get lost behind the hair. This may appear to add weight to the face.
Style-----Off the face.

11. TRIANGLE
Triangle: A reverse inverted triangle or reverse heart shape. A dominant jaw line with narrowing at the cheek bone and temples.
Try----Shorter hair that balances prominent jaw line.
Full at the temples and taper at the jaw are perfect for triangular shapes.
Off center parts, wedges and shags look great.
Lots of layers to achieve fullness through the upper part of the face.
Avoid----Fullness by cheek area and jaw line.
Hair styles that flip out at the jaw line not recommended.
Style---- Create fullness on sides above ears and top of the head.
Triangle: A reverse inverted triangle or heart shape. A dominant jaw line with narrowing at the cheek bone and temples.
Try----Shorter hair that balances prominent jaw line.
Full at the temples and taper at the jaw are perfect for triangular shapes.
Off center parts, wedges and shags look great.
Lots of layers to achieve fullness through the upper part of the face.
Avoid----Fullness by cheek area and jaw line.
Hair styles that flip out at the jaw line not recommended.
Style---- Create fullness on sides above ears and top of the head.

12. INVERTED TRIANGLE OR HEART SHAPE
Inverted triangle or heart shape: Face is wide at the temples and hairline, narrowing to a small chin.
Try-----Chin-length or longer. Fullness below chin.
Side parted hair or swept-forward layers around the upper face, with wispy bangs.
Chin-length bob is great.
Can wear short hair styles, but you need to leave weight in the back nape area.
Avoid—Short, full styles that emphasize the upper face.
Styles with too much height at the crown.
Style---Fullness below chin
Inverted triangle or heart shape: Face is wide at the temples and hairline, narrowing to a small chin.
Try-----Chin-length or longer. Fullness below chin.
Side parted hair or swept-forward layers around the upper face, with wispy bangs.
Chin-length bob is great.
Can wear short hair styles, but you need to leave weight in the back nape area.
Avoid—Short, full styles that emphasize the upper face.
Styles with too much height at the crown.
Style---Fullness below chin

13. DIAMOND DIAMOND: NARROW FOREHEAD, WIDTH BY CHEEKS AND NARROW CHIN
TRY------STRAIGHT ACROSS BANGS AND SIDE PARTS IT SHORTENS THE FACE.
ONE LENGTH BOB
SHOULDER WHISPY KICKED OUT LOOK.
AVOID----SHORT HAIRSTYLES WITH HIGH ON TOP PARTICULARLY ONES WITHOUT BANGS.
STLYES THAT LEAVE NO HAIR ON THE NECK AREA OR THE CHIN AREA.
STLYLE----TUCKED BEHIND THE EARS WORK WELL TO SHOW OF CHEEK BONE STRUCTURE
Diamond: Narrow forehead, width by cheeks and narrow chin
Try------STRAIGHT ACROSS BANGS AND SIDE PARTS IT SHORTENS THE FACE.
ONE LENGTH BOB
SHOULDER WHISPY KICKED OUT LOOK.
Avoid----SHORT HAIRSTYLES WITH HIGH ON TOP PARTICULARLY ONES WITHOUT BANGS.
STLYES THAT LEAVE NO HAIR ON THE NECK AREA OR THE CHIN AREA.
STLYLE----TUCKED BEHIND THE EARS WORK WELL TO SHOW OF CHEEK BONE STRUCTURE.

14. OBLONG
Oblong: Long and slender, same width at forehead and just below cheekbones.
Try----Short to medium lengths.
Fullness at the sides of face and wispy bangs soften the look of longer face shapes.
Layers work well, they will add softness to the straight lines in oblong face shape.
Avoid-Too much hair length, it will make the face look even longer.
Style---- Fullness at the sides
Oblong: Long and slender, same width at forehead and just below cheekbones.
Try----Short to medium lengths.
Fullness at the sides of face and wispy bangs soften the look of longer face shapes.
Layers work well, they will add softness to the straight lines in oblong face shape.
Avoid-Too much hair length, it will make the face look even longer.
Style—Add fullness and keep above shoulder length.

15. Correcting flows with make-up techniques

17. Cheek Bone
To accent cheekbones, blend in three dots of liquid highlighter above the cheekbones. Dust a little brown contour powder below and then fill in with your favorite shade of blush.
To accent cheekbones, blend in three dots of liquid highlighter above the cheekbones. Dust a little brown contour powder below and then fill in with your favorite shade of blush.

18. Thin face
HIGHLIGHTERS CAN DO WONDERS FOR YOUR FACE! IT CAN MAKE A THIN FACE LOOK WIDER, YOUR CHEEKBONES MORE PROMINENT AND YOUR EYES LOOK LARGER. CHOOSE ONE THAT IS TWO SHADES LIGHTER THAN YOUR SKIN TONE AND NEVER CHOOSE WHITE.
A FOUNDATION THAT IS LIGHTER THAN THE ONE YOU USUALLY USE CAN DOUBLE AS A HIGHLIGHTER BUT REMEMBER TO APPLY SPARINGLY AND DOUBLE CHECK YOUR APPLICATION
HIGHLIGHTERS CAN DO WONDERS FOR YOUR FACE! IT CAN MAKE A THIN FACE LOOK WIDER, YOUR CHEEKBONES MORE PROMINENT AND YOUR EYES LOOK LARGER. CHOOSE ONE THAT IS TWO SHADES LIGHTER THAN YOUR SKIN TONE AND NEVER CHOOSE WHITE.
A FOUNDATION THAT IS LIGHTER THAN THE ONE YOU USUALLY USE CAN DOUBLE AS A HIGHLIGHTER BUT REMEMBER TO APPLY SPARINGLY AND DOUBLE CHECK YOUR APPLICATION.

19. Jowls
HOLD YOUR HEAD UP. JOWLS ARE MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN YOU TILT YOUR HEAD DOWN. PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR MAKE UP. PRETTY LIPS AND SCULPTED CHEEKBONES WILL PULL THE ATTENTION UP!
HOLD YOUR HEAD UP. JOWLS ARE MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN YOU TILT YOUR HEAD DOWN. AND, PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR MAKEYUP. PRETTY LIPS AND SCULPTED CHEEKBONES WILL PULL THE ATTENTION UP!

20. Correcting a round face
The only thing that is going to make a noticeable difference is a hair style. You can use make-up but you need to know exactly what you are doing or you will look as if you have applied smudges of color to your face and that is what people will see.
The only thing that is going to make a noticeable difference is a hair style. You can use make-up but you need to know exactly what you are doing or you will look as if you have applied smudges of color to your face and that is what people will see.

21. Dark Shadows Under Eyes
TO COVER DARK SHADOWS UNDER THE EYES, USE AN UNDER EYE CONCEALER ONE SHADE LIGHTER THAN YOUR FOUNDATION. IT SHOULD NOT BE SO LIGHT HOWEVER THAT YOU APPEAR TO HAVE WHITE CIRCLES UNDER YOUR EYES. APPLY IT VERY GENTLY WITH A BRUSH UNTIL THE DARKNESS DISPEARS. MAKE SURE THAT THE CONCEALER IS NOT OVERLY OILY OR IT WILL SETTLE INTO ANY FINE LINES IN THE AREA.
TO COVER DARK SHADOWS UNDER THE EYES, USE AN UNDER EYE CONCEALER ONE SHADE LIGHTER THAN YOUR FOUNDATION. IT SHOULD NOT BE SO LIGHT HOWEVER THAT YOU APPEAR TO HAVE WHITE CIRCLES UNDER YOUR EYES. APPLY IT VERY GENTLY WITH A BRUSH UNTIL THE DARKNESS DISPEARS. MAKE SURE THAT THE CONCEALER IS NOT OVERLY OILY OR TI WILL SETTLE INTO ANY FINE LINES IN THE AREA.

22. MINIMIZING A LARGE NOSE
SHADING THE NOSE IF DONE CORRECTLY, CAN MAKE A WIDE NOSE LOOK MORE NARROW. YOU CAN ALSO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE CHEEKBONES. EMPHASIZE THEM TO DRAW ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE NOSE. SAME THING GOES FOR THE EYES. ADDING HEIGHT TO A HAIRSTYLE WILL ALSO TAKE THE ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE NOSE.
SHADING THE NOSE IF DONE CORRECTLY, CAN MAKE A WIDE NOSE LOOK MORE NARROW. YOU CAN ALSO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE CHEEKBONES. EMPHASIZE THEM TO DRAW ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE NOSE. SAME THING GOES FOR THE EYES. ADDING HEIGHT TO A HAIRSTYLE WILL ALSO TAKE THE ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE NOSE.

23. DOUBLE CHIN
HAVE YOUR TRIED EVERYTHING TO GET RID OF THAT DOUBLE CHIN? TRY LITTLE CONTOURING. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS APPLY A DARK SHADOW UNDER THE CENTER OF THE CHIN AND BLEND TOWARD THE THROAT. REMEMBER TO BLEND WELL. IT WON’T TAKE THE DOUBLE CHIN AWAY BUT IT WILL MAKE IT LESS NOTICEABLE.
HAVE YOUR TRIED EVERYTHING TO GET RID OF THAT DOUBLE CHIN? TRY LITTLE CONTOURING. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS APPLY A DARK SHADOW UNDER THE CENTER OF THE CHIN AND BLEND TOWARD THE THROAT. REMEMBER TO BLEND WELL. IT WON’T TAKE THE DOUBLE CHIN AWAY BUT IT WILL MAKE IT LESS NOTICEABLE.

24. CONTOURING
CONTOURING CAN CREATE SOME BEAUTIFUL PLANES IN YOUR FACE BUT SAVE IT FOR EVENING. DAY TIME, IT CAN SIMPLY MAKE YOU TOO MADE UP. KEEP IN MIND THAT LESS IS BEST………ALWAYS. CONTOUR POWDER SHOULD BE A NEUTRAL COLOR WITH NO RED OR YELLOW OVERTONES. IT SHOULD BE A FEW SHADES DARKER THAN YOUR FOUNDATION. USING A DARKER FOUNDATION IS A GOOD IDEA AS IT CAN BE BLENDED FAR MORE EASILY THAN POWDER. BLENDING IS VERY, VERY IMPORTANT. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY YOU ARE GOING TO BECOME SKILLED AT THIS APPLICATION
CONTOURING CAN CREATE SOME BEAUTIFUL PLANES IN YOUR FACE BUT SAVE IT FOR EVENING. DAY TIME, IT CAN SIMPLY MAKE YOU TOO MADE UP. KEEP IN MIND THAT LESS IS BEST………ALWAYS. CONTOUR POWDER SHOULD BE A NEUTRAL COLOR WITH NO RED OR YELLOW OVERTONES. IT SHOULD BE A FEW SHADES DARKER THAN YOUR FOUNDATION. USING A DARKER FOUNDATION IS A GOOD IDEA AS IT CAN BE BLENDED FAR MORE EASILY THAN POWDER. BLENDING IS VERY, VERY IMPORTANT. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY YOU ARE GOING TO BECOME SKILLED AT THIS APPLICATION.

25. UNDER EYE FLAKING
CAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM IS DEHYDRATED SKIN. INCREASE YOUR WATER INTAKE AND APPLY CREAMS DAY AND NIGHT.
CAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM IS DEHRATED SKIN. INCREASE YOUR WATER INTAKE AND APPLY CREAMS DAY AND NIGHT.