1. Female haircuts - Long graduation
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2. Introduction
This haircut first became popular in the 1970s. It brought new movement to long hair and revolutionised the way it was styled.
Long graduation allows you to create a soft, textured outline shape while still achieving height and volume on the top.
This haircut is still one of the most popular styles for long hair and it has developed to include variations in length, texture and movement. It can even be used to produce the straight, flat look that is fashionable today.
Almost all face shapes and hair textures are suited to long graduation because it is so adaptable. For example, for a client with a square face, you can create short layers on the top of the head to give it length. Or, if your cliens has a long face, you can shorten the overall length of the cut to make their face appear rounder.
Long graduation is an adaptable, flexible and useful cut and it is likely to be the one that you use most often.
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3. Step 1 of 19 - Before you cut
As always, before you cut, there are number of client characteristics you need to look at, including: facial features and face shape; hairlines, hair-growth patterns; hair quantity, quality and texture.
For this haircut, you need to pay particular attention to the fringe area because you will be creating a fringe for the finished look.
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4. Step 2 of 19 - Checking hairlines
Hairlines and growth patterns are an essential element of the hair analysis. You should always look at them when the hair is wet and again when it is dry.
The hairline areas to look at are:
Nape
Crown
Front and sides
Not everyone has a perfect hairline so make sure you check for uneven growth and awkward, moving shapes.
Before you start the haircut, check the front hairline again. To create a strong and balanced fringe shape, the hairline must be flat and even.
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5. Step 3 of 19 - Back area Start at the back of head.
The first stage in this haircut is to create your exterior shape.
Take a centre section from the top of the crown down towards the centre at the back of the nape.
Next, take a diagonal section from the centre out towards the back of the ear.
Make sure that your sections are evenly balanced and that the lines are clean. The better your sections are, the clearer your cutting line will be.
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6. Step 4 of 19 - Back area Starting at the nape, comb down the hair.
Hold the hair between your fingers. Applying tension, work towards the top of the crown, up to the back of the ears.
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7. Step 5 of 19 – Back area
If your client has long hair, you may find that you have too much hair to work with.
In this case, as you work up the head, divide the hair into three sections: middle and two sides.
Holding the hair between your fingers, comb it straight down to cut.
Tip: Your baseline must be square. It is easier to achieve this if you divide the hair into three sections.
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8. Step 6 of 19 - Back area
Our stylist has maintained the same tension throughout the back area and has worked with the same amount of graduation at the baseline.
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9. Step 7 of 19 - Side area
You now need to join your baseline in with the front.
Take back a horizontal section from the front hairline to behind the ear.
Working against a guideline from the back, cut straight across.
Hold your hair between your fingers. Make sure you keep the same tension throughout.
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10. Step 8 of 19 - Side area Check the balance of your cut.
Take two sections from the same areas of both sides of the head.
Holding the sections with your fingers, check them against each other for length and shape.
Continue working this way until you reach the parting.
Tip: You can check balance: visually, using a mirror; or technically: by placing the tips of your fingers at the temple area on both sides of the head and sliding your fingers down the hair.
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11. Step 9 of 19 - Side area
Our stylist has created a square outline shape, keeping the hair wet at all times and maintaining an even tension throughout.
Here, the stylist has worked up to the natural parting.
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12. Step 10 of 19 - Side area, front
This is an important part of your haircut. It determines the length and shape of the front of the cut.
Take a section from the front hairline to just in front of the ear.
Comb the hair down and slightly forward.
Place your fingers parallel to the section. Here, our stylist's fingers are clearly curved. This will help to maintain the length.
The further forward you direct the hair, the more length you will create.
Work up the head to the natural parting. As you do this, your sectioning pattern will become more apparent.
Tip:The further a piece of hair travels to your guideline, the longer it will be. A short distance means a short cut.
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13. Step 11 of 19 - Achieving balance
Achieving balance is crucial to your haircut.
Once you have created your guideline on one side, balance it immediately with a guideline on the other side. Take out the same section on the opposite side and check for balance in two areas:
at the temple area; and
at the baseline length.
Stand behind your client. Hold the hair on both sides between your fingers, run your fingers down the shaft of the hair. Start with the shortest guideline and work you way to the longest.
To get a good, wide view, stand back from your client.
Use the mirror. You should check the balance visually as well as technically.
This process will get easier with practice. Each time you do it, you are training your eye to measure the balance of your cut.
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14. Step 12 of 19 - Cut one side at a time
When you are sure that your guidelines are balanced, you can start to work on the shape.
The client's head should be upright and central.
As you can see on our model, the sectioning should be curved. To achieve this angle more easily, stand in front of the client. This will also help you to check balance between the two sides as you cut.
Our stylist is directing the hair down and around. This technique will help you maintain weight and length.
Tip: Keep the hair wet at all tiimes. This will help you create balanced sections and maintain an even tension within each section of hair.
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15. Step 13 of 19 - Bring the hair forward
As you work back towards the central point at the back of the head, bring the hair forward to meet the guideline at the front.
Notice the position of the stylist's fingers. Keep the angle of your fingers the same from when you cut your first section through to the end of your haircut. This way you will create minimum graduation on your cutting line.
To ensure that the hair is longer at the back, draw the back hair forward onto your front guideline.
Because you have already cut your back guideline, you will not be cutting much off as you work your way through the back of the hair
Check the balance of your cut again.
Tip: Graduation allows the hair to turn under and brush away from the face.
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16. Step 14 of 19 - Layering technique
In this cut, you are using square layering.
Create a top box section on the top of the head. Take a section from both sides from the middle of the eyes back towards the top of the crown.
Then take a section across the top box and hold the hair out at a 90 degree angle to the head.
As you work forward from the top box section, pull all the hair back towards the crown. This will help you maintain length.
Because you have already created your external shape at the front of the head, there will not be much cutting to do in this area.
Angle your fingers upwards to create weight and length at the sides.
Work down into the sides, drawing the hair up to meet your top box section.
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17. Step 15 of 19 - Layering, back area
Create a profile line down the central point of the head at the back.
Direct the hair upwards to the top of the crown to meet your guideline. And remember to angle your fingers to maintain length.
You have now created your guideline for the back of the head.
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18. Step 16 of 19 - Layering, back area
Work out from the central point. Take a diagonal section working down into the nape.
This section is over directed, continuing the diagonal sections working forward and pull the hair up to the central layering guideline.
It is important that you follow your guide line at all times. Keep the hair wet at all times.
When you first do this haircut you may find it difficult, due to working with a lot of hair, if this is the case take smaller sections.
Tip: Square layers will help you maintain length and weight at the sides of your haircut. Directing the hair over the crown will give you more weight and length overall.
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19. Step 17 of 19 - Fringe
You do not have to create a fringe with this haircut. You should discuss this option with your client during your consultation.
To create a fringe, take a section from the natural parting. On our model, we are using a side parting.
From the parting, take a curved section out to the corner of the eyes on both sides.
Comb the hair down, using the wide teeth of your comb. This will show up - and help you work with - any irregularities at the front, such as an uneven hairline.
If there are any irregularities in the hairline, they should not come as a surprise. You should have been looking for them during your client consultation and analysis.
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20. Step 18 of 19 - Fringe
Wet the hair. Using relaxed tension, hold the hair between your fingers and cut straight across.
Because you have taken a curved section, the fringe will appear to be curved.
Remember, your sectioning pattern dictates your cutting line:
curved sections mean curved cutting lines
square sections mean square cutting lines
Tip: Always check the hairline movement at the front. If the hairline is uneven, you will not get a straight fringe.
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21. Step 19 of 19 - Finished result
You can see our finished result.
The hair was blowdryed using a strong mousse and a large round brush.
Always remembering this haircut is so versatile you don't always have to have a fringe.
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