UV GELS Chapter 29

Introduction UV gels enhancements rely on ingredients from the acrylic family Wrap resins – subcategory called “cyanacrylics” Monomer liquid/polymer powder nail enhancements are from the same category called “methacrylate” UV gels contain monomers – related form called “oligomer”

“mono” meaning “one” “poly” meaning “many” “oligo” meaning “few” Oligomer is a short chain of monomers not long enough to be considered a polymer Monomers are liquid Polymers are solids Oligomers are in between – thick, gel-like, sticky

Traditionally – urethane acrylate Newer – urethane methacrylates UV gels Easy to apply File Maintain Not as durable as methacrylate enhancements

Application process differs Nail plate is properly prepared Each layer of product applied requires exposure to UV light to cure or harden Special lamp designed to emit proper type of UV light

One-color method Two-color-method One color applied to entire nail two colors applied Usually pink and white

Types of UV Gels UV Bonding Gels UV Building Gels Increase adhesion to natural nail plate Vary in consistency and chemical components No strong odor UV Building Gels Thick-viscosity resin Allows building of arch and curve to nail Great for repairing cracks and breaks

Pigmented UV Gels UV Gel Polish Building & self leveling gels Two-color method Usually pink & white Thinner UV Gel Polish Very thin viscosity Packaged in a pot or bottle Cure in UV lamp Do not require drying time

UV Gloss Gel Wide array of colors Sealing gel, finishing gel, shine gel Creates a high shine Inhibition layer – is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV gel has cured 2 types – traditional & Tack-free gloss gels Wide array of colors Opacity – amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or less difficult to see through

Application of UV Gel Nail Enhancements/ Supplies UV gel lamps Designed to produce the correct amount of UV light needed to cure products UV gel products packaged in opaque pots or squeeze tubes to avoid exposure to UV light (sunlight, tanning beds) “Full spectrum bulbs” and “true color” Shelf life may be shortened and harden on containers

Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product Wattage Measure of how much electricity the bulb consumes Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product Greater chance of success and fewer problems

UV light bulbs Stay blue for years After a few months of use they may produce too little UV light to properly cure enhancement Bulbs must be changed 2 – 3 times per year If not changed regularly – Service breakdown Skin irritation/sensitivity

Brush Synthetic bristles Small Flat square

UV Gel Primer Improve adhesion to natural plate Follow mfg directions

Nail tips Use recommended tips for use with Gel products Heed all precautions and recommendations

Nail Dehydrator Removes surface moisture and oil Both block adhesion Prevents lifting

Nail Adhesive Select type best suited for work you are doing Buy in small quantities Shelf life of 6 months or less Prolong shelf life Close cap tightly Store at 60° – 85° F

Abrasive Files & Buffers Medium abrasive – 180 – 240 grit Natural nail preparation Medium fine grit 240 grit smoothing Fine buffer 350 grit or higher finishing High shine buffer – no polish is to be worn

UV Gel Application Pre-service Complete preservice sanitation and disinfection procedures (Ch. 25) Wash implements Rinse implements Immerse implements Wash hands with liquid soap Rinse and dry implements Prepare work station with everything you need at your fingertips

Greet client with a smile If first appointment, perform a consultation If return visit, perform consultation – record responses and observations

Light-cured Gel Application Pages 935 – 938 – One color method Pages 939 – 941 – Two-color method

UV Gel Application Post-service Make another appointment Take-home product recommendation Clean up around table Clean brush Discard used materials Clean table - clean and disinfect implements and multiuse tools

UV Gel Application over Forms Pages – 942 - 944

Maintenance and Removal of UV Gel Enhancements PP 945 - 947 Rebalances every 2 - 3 weeks Use medium abrasive file (180 – 240 grit) Thin and shape nail enhancement Be careful to not damage the natural nail plate with the abrasive

Removing UV Gel Nail Enhancements 946 – 947, 950, 952 Read & follow mfg. directions Removed quickly by reducing thickness with medium coarse file (120 – 180 grit) before soaking Once begins to soften Gently scrape it from nail plate Use wooden pusher

Follow with gentle buffing of natural nail plate using fine buffer (350 grit or higher) Condition surrounding skin with nail oil/lotion

Application of UV Gel over Forms

UV Gel over Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements with UV Gel Polish PP 948 - 949