1. Chapter 28 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

2. “Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful.” – Joshua J. Marine

3. Objectives
Explain monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancement chemistry and how it works.
Describe the apex, stress area, and sidewall and where they are located on the nail enhancement.
Demonstrate proper procedures for applying one color monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements over tips and on natural nails.

4. Objectives (continued)
Demonstrate the proper procedures for applying two-color monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements using forms over tips and natural nails.
Describe how to perform a one-color maintenance service using monomer liquid and polymer powder.
Demonstrate how to perform crack repair procedures.
Demonstrate how to properly remove monomer liquid and polymer powder.
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
One of the first things we notice about someone is his or her hands and fingernails. Can you imagine going to the dentist and noticing that he or she has dirty fingernails? Even in this day and age when dentists wear gloves while performing their services, dirty or unkempt fingernails are a real turnoff. The same applies to wait staff in restaurants , clerks in stores, and almost any other profession you can name. With the technology of the twenty-first century, there is no reason for anyone to have unattractive nails. There are many ways that you, as a practitioner skilled in nail technology, can help your clients have better-looking hands. And there is certainly no reason why anyone desiring long, attractive nails cannot have them. Today's lesson looks at a process that for years now has been referred to as “acrylic” nails. The lesson will use more accurate description as it presents the techniques.

5. Acrylic vs. Monomer/Polymer
Nail enhancements based on mixing liquids (monomers) and powders (polymers) have been known for years as “acrylic” nails. The term acrylic actually refers to an entire family of thousands of different substances such as contact lenses, cements, and Plexiglas®, etc.
ACRYLIC VS. MONOMER/POLYMER
Nail enhancements based on mixing together liquids and powders are commonly referred to as acrylic. The term acrylic actually refers to an entire family of thousands of different substances, but all share important, closely related features. Acrylics are used to make a wide range of things, including contact lenses, cements for mending broken bones, Plexiglas® windows, and even makeup and other cosmetics. All nail enhancement products are based almost entirely on ingredients that come from the acrylic family. For example, the ingredients in two-part monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancement systems belong to the methacrylate branch of the acrylic family.

6. Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder (ML/PP)
To be as accurate as possible, the text uses monomer liquid and polymer powder when referencing what for years has been called acrylic.
During this presentation it will be referred to as ML/PP.
MONOMER LIQUID AND POLYMER POWDER (ML/PP)
To be as accurate and specific as possible, the two-part monomer liquid and polymer powder enhancement system in this book is referred to as monomer liquid and polymer powder (ML/PP), but please also keep in mind that other industry literature, product marketing, and the like may continue to use the word acrylic. Throughout this presentation, the term will be abbreviated as ML/PP.

7. ML/PP Composition Monomer Mono means “one” and “mer” means "unit."
A monomer is one unit called a molecule.
Polymer
Poly means “many.”
Polymer means "many units or molecules.”
ML/PP COMPOSITION
Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements are created by combining monomer liquid and polymer powder. Mono means “one” and mer means “unit”; a monomer is one unit called a molecule. Poly means “many”; polymer means “many units” or many molecules linked together in a chain. This is important to remember, since you will hear these terms many times throughout your career.

8. Basic Applications Over the natural nail Over a nail tip
Over a flexible form
BASIC APPLICATIONS
Monomer liquid and polymer powder products can be applied in three basic ways:
On the natural nail as a protective overlay
Over a nail tip
On a form to create a nail extension
A natural-hair, pointed, round, or oval application brush is the best brush to use for applying these products. The brush is immersed in the monomer liquid. The natural hair bristles absorb and hold the liquid like a reservoir. The tip of the brush is then touched to the surface of the dry polymer powder; as the monomer liquid absorbs the powder, a small bead of product forms. This bead is then carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with the brush.

9. Monomer Liquid Ethyl methacrylate (EMA) Methyl methacrylate (MMA)
Odorless
MONOMER LIQUID
Three versions of monomer liquid are used in the nail industry: ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, and odorless. All three often contain other monomers that are used as customizing additives. The industry standard is the ethyl methacrylate (EMA) and odorless monomer liquids. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is not recommended for use on nails and is not legal according to the State Board rules in some states.

10. ML/PP Process Immerse brush in monomer. Bristles absorb monomer.
Touch brush tip into polymer.
Small bead is formed.
Place bead on nail surface.
Mold bead with brush.

11. Monomer Liquid Bead Mix Ratio
1 part ML + 1 part PP = Dry bead
1.5 parts ML + 1 part PP = Medium bead
2 parts ML + 1 part PP = Wet bead

12. Polymerization Additives Pigments Beads Catalysts Initiators
Benzoyl peroxide
Combining products
POLYMERIZATION. A monomer is made mostly from ethyl monomer liquid. In polymerization, trillions of monomers are linked together to create long chains that in turn create tiny found beads of polymer powder used to create certain types of nail enhancements.
Additives: Special additives are blended into liquid and powder to ensure complete set or cure, maximum durability, color stability, shelf life, and so on.
Pigments: Polymer powders are usually blended with pigments and colorants to create a wide range of shades, including pinks, whites, milky translucents, and even reds, blues, greens, purples, yellows, oranges, browns, and jet black.
Beads: When liquid is picked up by a brush and mixed with powder, it forms a bead on the end of the brush that begins to harden.
Catalysts: The monomer and polymer bead is shaped and begins to harden; however, the bead needs help, which it gets through additives called catalysts and initiators. A catalyst speeds up chemical reaction and is used in monomer liquids to control the set or curing time. The catalyst energizes and activates the intiators.
Initiators: Initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of long polymer chains. The initiator causes monomer molecules to permanently link long polymer chains.
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO): This initiator starts the chain reaction that leads to curing the nail enhancement. It consists of the same ingredient used in over-the-counter acne medicine.
Combining products: Different products use different amounts of BPO; thus, it is very important to always use the polymer powder that was designed for the monomer liquid being used. Products used incorrectly can result in service breakdown or skin irritation and sensitivity.

13. Products and Supplies Monomer liquid Polymer powder Nail dehydrator
Nail primer
Abrasives
Nail forms
PRODUCTS AND SUPPLIES
MONOMER LIQUID
The monomer liquid is combined with polymer powder to form the sculptured nail. The mix ratio typically ensures proper set and maximum durability of the nail enhancement. For example, if too much flour is added when making cookies, the cookies will be dry and crumbly; too little flour will make the cookies soft and gooey. The same holds true for monomer liquids and polymer powders. If too much powder is picked up in the bead, the enhancement will cure incorrectly and may be brittle and/or discolored. If too little powder is used, the nail enhancement can become weak, and the risk of clients developing skin irritation and sensitivity may increase.
POLYMER POWDER
Polymer powder is available in white, clear, natural, pink, and many other colors. The color(s) you choose will depend on the nail enhancement method you are using.
NAIL DEHYDRATOR
A nail dehydrator removes surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate, both of which can block adhesion. Nail dehydrator should be applied liberally to the natural nail plate only and skin contact should be avoided. This step is a great way to help prevent lifting of the nail enhancement prior to applying primer.
NAIL PRIMER
Many kinds of nail primers are available today. Acid-based nail primer (methacrylic acid) once was widely used to help adhere enhancements to the natural nail. Since this type of nail primer is corrosive to the skin and potentially dangerous to eyes, “acid-free’’ and “nonacid primers’’ were developed. These are the types of primers that are most often used today. These alternatives work as well as or better than acid-based nail primers and they have the added advantage of not being corrosive to skin or eyes. Even so, all nail primer products must be used with caution, and skin contact must be avoided. Read the manufacturer’s instructions and refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet for safe handling recommendations and instructions.
For acid-based nail primers: Using a tiny applicator brush, insert the brush tip into the nail primer. Touch the brush tip to the edge of the bottle’s neck to release the excess primer back into the bottle. Keeping the brush dry and using a light dotting action, carefully dab the brush tip to the center of the properly prepared natural nail. The acid-based primer will spread out and cover the nail plate. Do not use too much product—it will run onto the skin and cause burns or injury. Be sure to read the label for the manufacturer’s suggested application procedures and precautions.
For nonacid and acid-free nail primers: Using the applicator brush, insert brush into the nail primer. Wipe off excess from the brush. Using a slightly damp brush, completely cover the nail plate with the primer. Do not use too much product—it will run onto the skin and cause skin irritation or sensitivity. The brush should hold enough product to treat two or three nails. Be sure the entire nail plate is covered. Before dipping the brush back into the container, gently wipe the brush on a clean table towel so you do not contaminate the bottle with any debris the brush may have picked up.. Be sure to read the label for the manufacturer’s suggested application procedures and precautions.
ABRASIVES
Select a medium grit (180 to 240) for natural nail preparation and initial shaping. Choose a medium grit for smoothing and a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) for final buffing. A three-way buffer is used to create a high shine on the enhancement when no polish is worn. If you avoid putting the product on too thickly, a 180 grit is usually enough to shape the nail enhancement. Avoid using coarser (lower-grit) abrasives or aggressive techniques on freshly applied enhancement products, as they can damage the freshly created nail enhancement.
NAIL FORMS
NAIL FORMS are placed under the free edge and used to extend the nail enhancements beyond the fingertip for additional length. Nail forms often are made of paper or Mylar, coated with adhesive backs, or of pre-shaped plastic or aluminum. Paper and Mylar are disposable, but plastic and aluminum can be properly cleaned and disinfected.

14. Products and Supplies (continued)
Nail tips
Dappen dish
Nail brush
Safety eyewear
Dust masks
Protective gloves
NAIL TIPS
Nail tips are preformed nail extensions made from ABS or tenite acetate plastic and are available in a wide variety of shapes, styles, and colors, such as natural, white, and clear.
DAPPEN DISH
The monomer liquid and polymer powder are each poured into a special holder called a dappen dish. These dishes must have narrow openings to minimize evaporation of the monomer liquid into the air. Do not use open-mouth jars or other containers with large openings. Those types of containers will dramatically increase evaporation of the liquid and can allow the product to be contaminated with dust and other debris. Dappen dishes must be covered with a tightly fitting lid when not in use.
Each time the brush is dipped into the dappen dish, the remaining monomer liquid is contaminated with small amounts of polymer powder. Never pour the unused portion of monomer liquid back into the original container. Empty the monomer liquid from your dappen dish after the service and wipe it clean with a disposable towel. Do not let skin come in contact with the monomer liquid during this process to avoid skin irritation or sensitivity. Wipe the dish clean with acetone, if necessary, before storing in a dust-free location.
NAIL BRUSH
The best brush for use with these types of procedures is composed of sable hair and is usually an oval or round style application brush. Odorless monomer liquid uses a flat brush because flat brushes hold less liquid. Synthetic and less expensive brushes do not pick up enough monomer liquid or do not release the liquid properly. Choose the brush shape and size with which you feel the most comfortable. Avoid overly large brushes (size 12 to 16), since they can hold excessive amounts of liquid and alter the mix ratio of the powder and liquid. Having too much monomer liquid on your brush can increase the risk of accidentally touching the client’s skin and may increase the risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivities.
SAFETY EYEWEAR
Safety eyewear should be used to protect eyes from flying objects or accidental splashes. There are many types and styles. You can get more information by searching the Internet or contacting a local optometrist, who can also help you with both nonprescription and prescription safety eyewear.
DUST MASKS
Dust masks are designed to be worn over the nose and mouth to prevent inhalation of excessive amounts of dust. They provide no protection from vapors.
PROTECTIVE GLOVES.
Both disposable and multiuse varieties of protective gloves can be purchased. Several types of materials are used to make these gloves. For many nail salon–related applications, gloves made of nitrile polymer powder work best.

15. Products and Supplies (continued)

16. Storing Products Store in covered containers.
Store in cool, dark area away from heat.
Discard used materials.
Avoid skin contact.
Dispose of according to local rules.
STORING PRODUCTS
Store monomer liquid and polymer powder products in covered containers. Store all primers and liquids separate from each other in a cool, dark area. Do not store products near heat.
After a service, you must discard used materials. Never save used monomer liquid that has been removed from the original container. Use on one client only. To dispose of small amounts of leftover monomer liquid, carefully pour it into a very absorbent paper towel and then place it in a plastic bag. Avoid skin contact with the monomer liquid, and never pour it directly into the plastic bag. Should skin contact occur, wash hands with liquid soap and water. After all used materials have been collected, seal them in a plastic bag and discard the bag in a closed waste receptacle. It is important to remove items soiled with enhancement products from your manicuring station after each client. This will help maintain the quality of the air in your salon. Dispose of these items according to local rules and regulations.

17. Maintenance
Maintenance helps prevent lifting or cracking. Breaks and cracks are repaired by filing the area and adding ML/PP to it. Proper maintenance must be performed every two to three weeks. The nail is thinned down, the apex of the nail is removed, and the entire nail enhancement is reduced in thickness.

18. Maintenance (continued)

19. Special Nail Enhancement Terms
Apex or arch
Stress area
Sidewall
Nail extension underside
Thickness
C Curve
Length
SPECIAL NAIL ENHANCEMENT TERMS
APEX OR ARCH: The apex or arch is the area of the nail that has all of the strength. Having strength in the apex allows the base of the nail, sidewalls, and tip to be thin, yet leaves the nail strong enough to resist frequent chipping or breaking. The apex is usually oval-shaped and is located in the center of the nail. The high point is visible no matter where you view the nail.
STRESS AREA: The stress area is where the natural nail grows beyond the finger and becomes the free edge. This area needs strength to support the extension.
SIDEWALL: The sidewall is the area on the side of the nail plate that grows free of its attachment to the nail fold and where the extension leaves the natural nail.
NAIL EXTENSION UNDERSIDE: The nail extension underside is the actual underside of the nail extension. The nail extension underside can jet straight out or may dip, depending on the nail style. The nail extension underside should be even, matched on each nail. Undersides should match in length from nail to nail on all fingers. The tip should fit the nail and finger properly and the underside of the nail extension should be smooth, without any glitches.
THICKNESS: The thickness of the nail enhancement should be rather thin if a client is to wear it comfortably while going about the day. The enhancement should graduate seamlessly from the cuticle area to the end of the nail extension so you do not feel an edge. The sidewalls and tip’s edge should be credit card-thin.
C CURVE: The C curve of the nail enhancement depends on the C curve of the natural nail. In the salon, a 35 percent C curve is the average. The top surface and bottom-side should match perfectly.
LENGTH: To make sure the length of the nail extension and enhancements are appropriate and even, be sure to measure the length of the index, middle, and ring fingers; these should be the same length. The thumb and pinkie fingers should also be in proportion and match.

20. Odorless Product Chemistry
Different chemistry than other ML/PPs
Have a slight odor
Used with a dry mix ratio
ODORLESS PRODUCT CHEMISTRY
Odorless monomer liquid and polymer powder products do not necessarily have the same chemistry as all other monomer liquid and polymer powder products. But rather than use ethyl acrylic, these products rely on monomers that have little odor. Even though these products are called “odorless,’’ they do have a slight odor. Generally, if a monomer liquid does not produce a strong enough odor so that others in the salon can detect its presence, it is considered to be an “odorless product.’’ Those that create a slight odor in the salon are called “low odor.’’
In general, odorless products must be used with a dry mix ratio (equal parts liquid and powder in bead). If used too wet, there is the risk of the client developing skin irritation or sensitivity.

21. Odorless Product Differences
Forms a firm, glossy bead
Brush wiped frequently
Brush never reset with monomer liquid
Hardens more slowly
Creates a tacky layer
Inhibition layer removed with alcohol, acetone, or filing
ODORLESS PRODUCT DIFFERENCES
This mix ratio creates a "snowy" bead on your brush. After it is placed on the nail, it will slowly form into a firm, glossy bead that will hold its shape until pressed and smoothed with the nail brush. Wipe your brush frequently to avoid the product sticking to the hairs. Never rewet the brush with monomer liquid. This will change the mix ratio, which can lead to product discoloration, service breakdown, and increased risk of skin irritation and sensitivity. Without rewetting your brush, use it to shape and smooth the surface to perfection.
Odorless products harden more slowly and create a tacky layer called the inhibition layer. Once the enhancement has hardened, this layer can be removed with alcohol, acetone, or a manufacturer-recommended product. It is always best to use a plastic-backed cotton pad to avoid skin contact with the inhibition layer, since repeated contact with this layer can lead to skin irritation and sensitivity. This layer also can be filed away, but avoid skin contact with these freshly filed particles.

22. ML/PP Colors Basic pink White Clear Natural Customized ML/PP COLORS
Today’s monomer liquids and polymer powders come in many colors, including variations of basic pink, white, clear, and natural. These colors can be used alone or blended to create everything from customized shades of pink to match or enhance the color of your client’s nail beds, to bold primaries or pastels that can be used to create a wide range of designs and patterns. With these powders you can create unique colors or designs that can be locked permanently in the nail enhancement. They offer a wonderful way to customize your services or to express your artistry and creativity.
Monomer liquid and polymer powder overlays and nail enhancements can be created with a single color powder, if the client wears nail polish all the time. Or they can be created by using a pink or natural-colored powder over the nail bed or a natural or soft white powder to replicate a natural nail free edge. A stark white powder can be use to create the French manicure look. The finished nail enhancement can be polished with nail polish or buffed to a high-glossy shine for a more natural look. These types of services are extremely versatile and highly durable, which partially explains their great popularity.

23. Practical Procedures Pre- and Post-Service Procedures
One-Color ML/PP Over Tips
Two-Color ML/PP Using Forms
One-Color ML/PP Maintenance
Crack Repair for MLPP
ML/PP Enhancement Removal
PRACTICAL PROCEDURES
Explain to students when the Practical Class will occur (perhaps now). Tell them that you will hand out procedure sheets for each of the following procedures (except Pre- and Post-Service, as those have been covered in numerous other practical classes) and that they will follow along as you review. They will put away the procedure sheets during the actual demonstration, which is performed either by you or by the applicable Milady DVD (to ensure consistency between demonstrations).

24. Summary and Review
What is the chemistry behind ML/PP and how does it work?
Define apex, stress area, and sidewall and explain where they are located.
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
Monomer liquid and polymer powder nails make nail enhancements one of the fastest growing and most lucrative services in our industry. A professional desiring to offer these services must master the techniques, minimize delivery time, and stay abreast of all the latest products. ML/PP nail enhancements are a great opportunity to put your creative juices to work and design customized products and services for your clients.
What is the chemistry behind ML/PP and how does it work?
Answer: All nail enhancement products are based almost entirely on ingredients that come from the acrylic family. The liquid and powder enhancement system belongs to a branch of the acrylic family called methacrylates. This two-part system consists of a monomer liquid and polymer powder that are blended together to form the nail enhancement.
2. Define apex, stress area, and sidewall and explain where they are located.
Answer: The apex, or arch, is the area of the nail that has all of the strength. The apex is usually oval-shaped and is located in the center of the nail.
The stress area is an area that needs strength to support the nail extension; it is located where the natural nail grows beyond the finger and becomes the free edge.
The sidewall is the area on the side of the nail plate that grows free of its attachment to the nail fold and where the extension leaves the natural nail.

25. Summary and Review (continued)
What is the proper procedure for applying one-color ML/PP enhancements over tips or natural nails?
What is the proper procedure for applying two-color ML/PP enhancements using forms?
3. What is the proper procedure for applying one-color ML/PP enhancements over tips or natural nails?
Answer:
Push back eponychium and remove cuticle from the nail plate.
Buff nail plate to remove oily shine.
Apply nail dehydrator.
Apply tips.
Apply nail primer.
Prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder.
Dip brush into monomer liquid.
Form product bead.
Place bead of product on free edge.
Shape free edge.
Place second bead of monomer and polymer on free edge.
Shape second bead of product.
Apply product beads.
Shape and refine nail enhancement.
Buff nail enhancement.
Apply nail oil.
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.
Clean nail enhancements.
Apply nail polish.
What is the proper procedure for applying two-color ML/PP enhancements using forms?
Clean nails and remove existing polish.
Remove oily shine from natural nail surface.
Position nail form.
Dip brush in monomer liquid.
Form tip product bead on free edge.
Place bead of product
Place second bead of product.
Apply bead of product.
Apply product to remaining nails.
Remove nail forms.
Shape nail enhancement.
Clean nail enhancement.
Apply nail polish, if desired.

26. Summary and Review (continued)
What is the proper procedure for performing a one-color maintenance service on nail enhancements using ML/PP?
How is a crack repair performed?
How are ML/PP enhancements removed?
5. What is the proper procedure for performing a one-color maintenance service on nail enhancements using ML/PP?
Answer:
Remove existing polish.
Smooth ledge between new growth and monomer and polymer nail.
Refine entire nail enhancement.
Buff nail enhancement.
Blend areas of lifting.
Clean nail enhancement.
Remove oily shine from natural nail surface.
Apply nail dehydrator.
Apply nail primer.
Prepare monomer and polymer liquid and powder.
Place bead of enhancement product.
Shape bead of enhancement product.
Place next bead of enhancement product.
Shape nail enhancements.
Apply nail oil.
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.
Apply nail polish.
6. How is a crack repair performed?
File crack in nail enhancement.
Apply nail form.
Prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder.
Place beads of enhancement product.
Shape beads of enhancement product.
Place additional beads of enhancement product.
Remove the form, if used.
Reshape nail enhancement using a medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit).
Buff until smooth.
7. How are ML/PP enhancements removed?
Fill a metal or glass bowl with acetone or manufacturer-recommended product remover.
Soak nail enhancement.
Remove nail enhancement.
Condition skin and nails.
Buff the nails.
Recommend that the client receive a basic manicure.

27. You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.
Congratulations!
You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.