Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

Milady’s Standard Cosmetology
UV Gels Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

“Periods of tranquility are seldom prolific of creative achievement
“Periods of tranquility are seldom prolific of creative achievement. Mankind has to be stirred up” Alfred North Whitehead

Objectives Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of UV gels
Identify the supplies needed for UV gel application Demonstrate the proper procedures for maintaining UV gel services using forms, over tips, and on natural nails

Objectives Demonstrate the one-color and two-color method for applying UV gels Explain how to safely and correctly remove UV gels LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?) In today’s lesson we’ll be taking a look at UV gels as an alternate method for an artificial nail enhancement. When you think of gel nails, you might think of white gravy. It’s made from milk (a liquid) and flour (a solid). When the two are combined and heat is added, you get a nice, think, sticky substance called gravy. That’s similar to how gel nails are created. Gel nails contain monomers (liquid), but they rely mostly on oligomers which are in between a solid and liquid because they are thick, gel-like and sticky. Much like gravy requires heat to thicken, gel nails require UV light to cure or harden. UV (ultraviolet light) comes from a special lamp designed to emit the proper type of UV light. Let’s take a look at specific procedures using UV gels.

UV Gels Traditional UV gels–urethane acrylate
New UV gels–urethane methacrylate Advantages Beautiful and long-lasting Easy to apply, file, maintain Low odor UV GELS: Traditional UV gels rely on urethane acrylate. Newer UV gel systems use urethane methacrylate. Advantages Beautiful, long-lasting nail enhancements. Easy to apply, file and maintain. Low odor, with each layer being exposed to UV light to cure and harden.

UV Gel Supplies UV gel lamp Brush UV gel primer Nail tips
Nail adhesive Abrasive nail file and buffers Nail dehydrator SUPPLIES UV gel lamp. Produce the correct amount of UV light needed to properly cure UV gel nail enhancements. UV products exposed to true color or full spectrum ceiling light bulbs may experience a shortened shelf life. UV bulbs must be changed 2 to 3 time per year. Brush. Synthetic brushes with small, flat, square bristles hold and spread the UV gel. UV gel primer. Improve adhesion of UV gels to natural nail plate. Use as directed by manufacturer. Nail tips. Use those recommended for UV gel systems. Nail adhesive. Used to secure pre-formed nail tips to natural nails. Adhesives have a shelf life of only 6 months or less. Close cap securely and store at 60 to 85 degrees F. Abrasive files and buffers. Select a medium abrasive (240–290 grit) for natural nail preparation. Choose a medium/fine abrasive (240 grit) for smoothing, and a fine buffer (350 grit) for finishing. A high shine buffer can also be used if nail polish is to be worn without polish. Nail dehydrator. Used to remove surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on nail plate, both of which block adhesion.

UV Gel Pre-Service Complete manicure pre-service sanitation and disinfection Prepare workstation Greet client with a smile Prepare client consultation form Perform client consultation UV GEL APPLICATION PRE-SERVICE: Present UV gel application pre-service procedure and have students follow along on LP 29.0, H – 1. APPLICATION PRE-SERVICE Complete the manicure pre-service sanitation and disinfection. Prepare workstation. Set up standard manicuring table. Add the additional supplies needed to perform the services. Greet client with a smile. Ask client to wash hands with liquid soap and rinse with warm running water and to dry thoroughly. Practitioner washes and dries hands also. If a first appointment, prepare client consultation form. Mark date of the service. Record any skin or nail disorders and allergies, and determine if it is safe and appropriate to perform service. Notate if client is a nail biter or does heavy work as a daily routine. Record any specific information about service to be performed (e.g., UV gel overlay without polish, if polish is preferred; client's color preference). If a return visit, perform client consultation, using consultation form to record responses and observations. Check for nail disorders and decide if it is safe and appropriate to perform a service. If the client cannot receive a service, explain reasons and refer to a doctor, if appropriate. 5.

UV Gel Application Clean nails and remove polish
Push back epohychium; remove cuticle Remove oily shine Apply nail dehydrator UV GEL APPLICATION: Present UV gel application procedure and have students follow along on LP 29.0, H – 1. UV GEL APPLICATION Clean nails and remove existing polish. Begin with client’s left hand, little finger, and work toward the thumb. Repeat on the right hand. Ask client to place nails into a fingerbowl with liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean nails over the fingerbowl. Thoroughly rinse with clean water to remove soap residues, which can cause lifting. Push back eponychium and carefully remove cuticle from the nail plate. Use a cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher to gently push back eponychium. Apply cuticle remover to nail plate. Use as directed by the manufacturer and carefully remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate. Remove oily shine from natural nail surface. Lightly buff nail plate with medium/fine (240 grit) abrasive to remove the natural oils. Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with cotton-tipped wooden pusher, cotton pad with plastic backing, brush, or spray.

UV Gel Application Apply nail tips if desired
Do natural nail preparation Apply nail tips if desired. If client requires nail tips, apply according to the procedure. Shorten and shape tip prior to application of the UV gel. During the procedure the UV gel overlaps the tip’s edge to prevent lifting. During the filing process, the seal can be broken, allowing the UV gel to peel or lift. Be careful not to break this seal. Be sure to follow the instructions recommended by the manufacturer of the system you are using. Do natural nail preparation. Follow manufacturer's instructions for natural nail preparation. Properly prepare the nail plate. Using the applicator brush, insert brush into nail primer. Wipe off excess from brush and using a slightly damp brush, ensure nail plate is completely covered. Avoid using too much product to prevent running onto the skin, which can increase the risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivity.

UV Gel Application Apply UV gel #1 (base coat gel) Cure UV gel #1
Repeat steps 8 and 9 on right hand Apply UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Firmly brush UV gel onto entire nail surface, including free edge. Keep UV gel from touching eponychium or side walls. Leave a tiny free margin between the UV gel product and the skin to reduce the risk of client developing skin irritation or sensitivity. Apply to client’s left hand from little finger to index finger. If performing a one-color method (i.e., nail polish will be worn), a clear, pink or natural color UV gel may be used. If performing a two color method, a pink or natural color UV gel should be used. Cure UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Properly position hand in the UV lamp for the manufacturer’s required cure time. Cure each layer of the UV gel product for the time required by the manufacturer's instructions. Curing for too little time can result in improper cure and may lead to service breakdown, skin irritation, and/or sensitivity. Improper positioning of the hands inside the lamp can also cause improper cure. Repeat steps 8 and 9 on the right hand. Repeat same steps for both thumbs.

UV Gel Application Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel) Cure UV gel #2
Repeat steps 11 and 12 on right hand and thumbs Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel). Apply a small amount of UV gel over properly cured first layer. Carefully pull the UV gel across the first layer, and smooth into place. Avoid patting the brush or pressing too hard. Brush the UV gel over and around the free edge to create a seal. Avoid touching the skin under the free edge to prevent skin irritation and sensitivity. Repeat this application process for the other four nails on the client’s left hand. If performing a one-color method, use the same colored UV gel as before. If performing a two-color method, use the white gels to create a smile line at the free edge. Apply pink UV gel over remainder of the nail plate, leaving a tiny free margin between the UV gel and skin. Cure UV gel #2 (builder UV gel). Properly position hand in the UV lamp for the manufacturer’s required cure time. Repeat steps 11 and 12 on the right hand. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for both thumbs. If required, a second layer of UV gel #2 (builder UV gel), may be applied. Repeat procedures 11 and 12 for both hands.

UV Gel Application Remove inhibition layer Check nail contours
Remove dust Remove inhibition layer. UV gels cure with a tacky surface called an inhibition layer. This layer can be removed by filing with a medium abrasive ( grit) or with alcohol, acetone, or other suitable remover on a plastic-backed cotton pad to avoid skin contact. Prolonged or repeated skin contact with the inhibition layer may cause skin irritation or sensitivities. Practitioner should avoid laying his arm in fresh filings from UV gel enhancements. Check nail contours. Using a medium abrasive ( grit) , refine the surface contour. File carefully near side walls and eponychium to avoid injuring client’s skin. Bevel down, stroking file at a 45-degree angle from top center dome to free edge. Check free edge thickness and even out imperfections with gentle strokes. During the procedure keep brush and UV gel away from sunlight, UV gel lamps, and full spectrum table lamps to prevent gel nails from hardening. Remove dust. Remove dust and filings with a nylon brush that can be disinfected. Be sure to properly clean and disinfect brushes between clients.

UV Gel Application Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher)
Repeat steps 12 and 16 Remove inhibition layer (if required) Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel). Apply a small amount of UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel). Starting from base of nail plate, stroke toward free edge, using polish-style strokes, to cover entire nail surface. Wrap final layer under the natural nail's free edge to seal the coating and provide additional protection. Avoid touching the client’s skin. Repeat steps 12 and 16. Remove inhibition layer if required. Avoid skin contact.

UV Gel Application Apply nail oil
Apply lotion and massage hand and arm Clean nail enhancements Apply polish Apply nail oil. Rub nail oil into surrounding skin and nail surface. Apply lotion and massage hand and arm. Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to dip nail enhancements into a fingerbowl filled with liquid soap. Use nail brush to clean enhancements over fingerbowl. Thoroughly rinse with water to remove soap residues, which can cause polish to lift. Dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel. Apply nail polish.

UV Gel Post-Service Make another appointment
Make home product recommendations Clean up around table Clean brush Discard used materials Clean table; disinfect implements and tools UV GEL APPLICATION POST-SERVICE: Present UV gel application post-service procedure and have students follow along on LP 29.0, H – 1. UV GEL APPLICATION POST-SERVICE Make another appointment. Schedule another appointment for maintaining nail enhancements. A rebalance will be necessary in 2 or 3 weeks, depending on how quickly the nails grow. Encourage client to return for a basic manicure between rebalance appointments if UV gel enhancements are polished. Take-home product recommendations. Suggest professional products that would benefit client (e.g., polish, nail oil, topcoat, hand lotions, etc.). Clean up around your table. Take the time to restore the basic set-up of table, restock supplies, and tighten all caps. Clean brush. Clean brush according to manufacturer's instructions. Keeping it away from UV light sources will make cleaning much easier and will prevent ruining the brush. Discard used materials. Dispose of waste materials. Collect materials, seal them in a plastic bag, and discard in a metal, self-closing waste receptacle. Remove items soiled with enhancement product from your manicuring station after each client and dispose of properly. Clean table; clean and disinfect implements and multi-use tools. Perform complete pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedures.

UV Gels Over Forms/Natural Nails
Complete UV gel pre-service Apply nail forms Apply UV gel #1 onto form and natural nail UV GEL OVER FORMS Complete UV gel application pre-service. Place UV gel supplies, including nail forms, on manicuring table. Apply nail forms. Fit forms onto all 10 fingers. Disinfect clean multi-use forms, if disposable forms are not used. Apply UV gel #1 (base coat UV gel). Brush UV gel onto free edge of form and create a free edge. Add more UV gel to cover remainder of the natural nail. Keep UV gel from touching eponychium or side walls. Use the same color gel that was previously used in this step.

Cure UV gel #1 Repeat steps 3 and 4 on right hand Apply UV gel #2 Cure UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Properly position hand in the UV lamp for the manufacturer’s required cure time and cure each layer accordingly. Repeat steps 3 and 4 on the right hand. Then repeat same steps for both thumbs. Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel). Apply small amount of UV gel over the properly cured first layer. Pull it across the first layer and smooth. Avoid touching the skin. Repeat this application process for the other four nails on the client’s left hand, from little finger to index finger. If performing a one-color method, use a clear, pink, or natural color UV gel. If performing a two-color method, use a pink or natural color UV gel over the nail bed area and a white UV gel to create a smile line.

Properly position hand and cure UV gel for required time Carefully remove nail forms. Shape free edge Apply UV gel #2 Remove inhibition layer Properly position hand and cure UV gel for the required time. Carefully remove nail forms. Shape free edge. Use a medium abrasive ( grit) to shape free edge of enhancement. Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel). If required, apply UV gel #2 over entire nail enhancement and cure properly. Remove inhibition layer. This layer can be removed by filing with a medium of abrasive ( grit) or with alcohol, acetone, or other suitable remover on a plastic-backed cotton pad to avoid skin contact.

Check nail contours Remove dust Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher) Cure UV nail enhancement Remove inhibition layer Repeat steps 11 and 12 Check nail contours. Using a medium abrasive ( grit), refine the surface contour. Remove dust. Remove dust and filing with a nylon brush that can be disinfected. Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher). Apply small amount of UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel). Starting from base of nail plate, stroke toward free edge, using polish-style strokes, covering entire nail surface. Wrap final layer under the natural nail's free edge to seal the coating and provide additional protection. Avoid touching the client’s skin underneath the free edge with UV gel. Cure UV nail. Properly cure UV nail enhancement as recommended. Remove inhibition layer if required. Avoid skin contact. Repeat steps 11 and 12.

Apply nail oil Apply and lotion and massage hand and arm Clean nail enhancements Apply nail polish Complete UV gel post-service Apply nail oil. Rub nail oil into surrounding skin and nail surface. Apply hand lotion and massage hand and arm. Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to dip nails into a fingerbowl filled with liquid soap. Then use a nail brush to clean nails over fingerbowl. Thoroughly rinse with water and dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel. Apply nail polish if desired. Complete UV gel application post-service.

UV Gel to Natural Nail Only

UV Gel Removal Perform pre-service sanitation and set-up
Read and follow manufacturer’s procedure Reduce thickness with medium abrasive Soak in acetone or product remover Gently scrape product from nail plate Buff gently Condition skin or follow with manicure Perform post-service UV GEL REMOVAL Perform pre-service sanitation and set-up. Read and follow manufacturer’s recommended procedure to remove UV gel nails. Carefully reduce the thickness with a medium/coarse abrasive ( grit) before soaking in acetone or product remover. Soak in acetone or product remover for a few minutes to soften. Once softened, gently scrape product from nail plate with a wooden pusher stick. Follow up with a gentle buffing of the natural nail using a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) to remove any product residues, and smooth the nail plate. Condition surrounding skin with nail oil and lotion or follow with a manicure. Perform post-service sanitation and procedure.

Summary and Review Describe the chemistry of UV gel nail enhancements and how they differ from other types How are their major ingredients different and how are they the same? Identify the supplies needed for UV gel nail enhancement applications SUMMARY AND REVIEW We’ve just learned another popular procedure for applying beautiful and durable nail enhancements. As a professional in the cosmetology field, it’s important to have a thorough understanding of and competent skill level in every nail enhancement procedure in order to properly consult with clients to choose the enhancement procedure that best suits their needs. Let’s review. Describe the chemistry of UV gel nail enhancements and how they differ from other types of enhancements. How are their major ingredients different and how are they the same? ANSWER: UV enhancements rely on ingredients from the acrylic family just like wrap resins, adhesives, and methacrylate nail enhancements. Their ingredients are part of a sub-category of the acrylic family called acrylates or methacrylates. UV gels contain monomers, but they rely mostly on a related form called an oligomer, which is a short chain of monomers. Identify the supplies needed for UV gel nail enhancement application. ANSWER: Basic manicure table set-up: UV gel lamp, brush, UV gel primer, nail tips; nail adhesive, abrasive files and buffers.

Summary and Review Describe the proper procedures for applying UV gel nail enhancements using forms Describe the proper procedures for applying UV gel nail enhancements using forms. ANSWER: Complete UV gel application pre-service. Place UV gel supplies, including nail forms, on manicuring table. Apply nail forms. Fit forms onto all ten fingers. Disinfect clean multi-use forms, if disposable forms are not used. Apply UV gel #1 (base coat UV gel). Brush UV gel onto free edge of form and create a free edge. Add more UV gel to cover remainder of the natural nail. Keep UV gel from touching eponychium or sidewalls. Use the same color gel that was previously used in this step. Cure UV gel #1 (base coat gel). Properly position hand in the UV lamp for he manufacturer’s required cure time and cure each layer accordingly. Apply and cure gel to right hand and thumbs. Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel) Apply small amount of UV gel over the properly cured, first layer. Pull it across the first layer and smooth. Avoid touching the skin. Repeat this application process for the other four nails on the client’s left hand, from little finger to index finger. If performing a one color method, use a clear, pink or natural color UV gel. If performing a two color method, use a pink or natural color UV gel over the nail bed area and a white UV gel to create a smile line. Properly position and and cure UV gel for the required time. Carefully remove nail forms. Shape free edge Use a medium abrasive ( grit) to shape free edge of enhancement.

Summary and Review Describe the proper procedures for applying UV gel nail enhancements using forms Apply UV gel #2 (building UV gel) If required, apply UV gel #2 over entire nail enhancement and cure properly. Remove inhibition layer. This layer can be removed by filing with a medium of abrasive ( grit) or with alcohol, acetone other suitable remover on a plastic back cotton pad to avoid skin contact. Check nail contours. Using a medium abrasive ( grit), refine the surface contour. Remove dust. Remove dust and filing with a nylon brush that can be disinfected. Apply UV gel #3 (sealer or finisher) Apply small amount of V gel #3 (sealer or finisher UV gel). Starting from base of nail plate, stroke toward free edge, using polish-style strokes, covering entire nail surface. Wrap final layer under the natural nail’s free edge to seal the coating and provide additional protection. Avoid touching the client’s skin underneath the free edge with UV gel. Cure UV Nail. Properly cure in UV nail enhancement as recommended. Remove inhibition layer. If required. Avoid skin contact. Re-check nail contours and remove dust.

Summary and Review Describe the proper procedures for applying UV gel nail enhancements using forms Apply nail oil. Rub nail oil into surrounding skin and nail surface. Apply hand lotion and massage hand and arm. Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to dip nails into a fingerbowl filled with liquid soap. Then use a nail brush to clean nails over fingerbowl. Thoroughly rinse with water and dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel. Apply nail polish if desired. Complete UV gel application post-service.

Summary and Review Why is it important to use the proper UV lamp with the UV gel of your choice? Why is it important to use the proper UV lamp with the UV gel of your choice? ANSWER: They are designed to produce the correct amount of UV light needed to properly cure UV gel nail enhancement products.

Summary and Review Explain how UV gels are safely and correctly removed What does wattage mean in terms of UV gel lights? What is the tacky layer called on the surface of the UV gel nails? Explain how UV gels are safely and correctly removed. ANSWER: Perform pre-service sanitation and set-up. Read and follow manufacturer’s recommended procedure to remove UV gel nails. Carefully reduce the thickness with a medium/coarse abrasive ( grit) before soaking in acetone or product remover. Soak in acetone or product remover for a few minutes to soften. Once softened, gently scrape product from nail plate with a wooden pusher stick. Follow up with a gentle buffing of the natural nail using a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) to remove any product residues and smooth the nail plate. Condition surrounding skin with nail oil and lotion or follow with a manicure. Perform post-service sanitation and procedure. What does wattage mean in terms of UV gel lights? ANSWER: Wattage is a measure of how much electricity the bulb consumes, much like miles per gallon tells you how much gasoline it will take to drive your car a certain distance. What is the tacky layer called on the surface of the UV gel nails? ANSWER: The inhibition layer.

Summary and Review What precaution must be taken when removing a tacky layer from a UV gel nail? What are oligomers and why are they important to UV gel nail enhancements? What precaution must be taken when removing a tacky layer from a UV gel nail? ANSWER: Avoid skin contact. What are oligomers and why are they important to UV gel nail enhancements? ANSWER: Oligomers are a short chain of monomers that are not long enough to be considered a polymer. Oligomers are often thick, gel-like, and sticky. They are the substance that allows UV gels to be easy to apply, file, and maintain. What two types of oligomers are used in UV gels? ANSWER: Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylates.

Summary and Review What 2 types of oligomers are used in UV gels?
What precaution must be taken when removing a tacky layer from a UV gel nail? ANSWER: Avoid skin contact. What are oligomers and why are they important to UV gel nail enhancements? ANSWER: Oligomers are a short chain of monomers that are not long enough to be considered a polymer. Oligomers are often thick, gel-like, and sticky. They are the substance that allows UV gels to be easy to apply, file, and maintain. What two types of oligomers are used in UV gels? ANSWER: Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylates.

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Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

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