1. Chapter 25 Manicuring

2. “When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it.” – Henry Ford

3. Objectives
Identify the four types of nail implements and/or tools required to perform a manicure.
Explain the difference between reusable and disposable implements.
Describe the importance of hand washing in nail services.
Explain why a consultation is necessary each time a client has a service in the salon.
Name the five basic nail shapes for women.

4. Objectives (continued)
Name the most popular nail shape for men.
List the types of massage movements most appropriate for a hand and arm massage.
Explain the difference between a basic manicure and a spa manicure.
Describe how aromatherapy is used in manicuring services.
Explain the use and benefits of paraffin wax in manicuring.
Name the correct cleaning and disinfection procedure for nail implements and tools.

5. Objectives (continued)
Describe a proper setup for the manicuring table.
List the steps in the post-service procedure.
List the steps taken if there is an exposure incident in the salon.
List the steps in the basic manicure.
Describe the proper technique for the application of nail polish.
Describe the procedure for a paraffin wax hand treatment before a manicure.
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
The word manicure comes from the Latin words manus (which means "hand") and cura (which means "care"). So manicure means just that: to care for the appearance of the hands and nails. important not only that you know how to provide this valuable service to your clients, but also that you, as a professional cosmetologist, maintain your own hands and nails in the best possible condition. After all, you will be touching your clients with your hands during every service you offer. Your nails should be smooth so that they don’t scratch the client’s skin or scalp. It is also important that your hands are smooth and firm but gentle when serving the client.
The early societies of Egypt and China considered long, polished, and colored fingernails as a mark of distinction between the commoners and the aristocrats. Nails were shaped with pumice stones and colored with vegetable dyes. In the late 1800s, painted fingernails became a trend among the elite in Paris. Manicuring and wearing nail polish became so popular in the 1920s that barber shops began to offer services for the nails to both women and men. By the late 1950s in America, every state required a license to practice manicuring. Today, what was once considered a luxury for the elite is a service used by many on a regular basis.
As you progress through the course of study, you will review the licensing regulations and identify the scope of practice for the professional nail technician.
ACTIVITY: Ask students if they have ever received a personal service from someone who had dirty fingernails. Perhaps it was a dentist, an optometrist, or a food server. Have them discuss how it made them feel. Relate those feelings to the importance of having manicured hands in any line of work, especially as a nail technician.

6. Nail Technology Tools Equipment Implements Materials Products
NAIL TECHNOLOGY TOOLS: There are four categories of nail technology tools.

7. Equipment Table and lamp Client and technician chairs Gloves
Finger bowl
Disinfection container
Client arm cushion
Service cushion
EQUIPMENT: Equipment includes permanent items used in nail technology that do not have to be replaced.

8. Equipment (continued)
Gauze and wipe container
Trash containers
Supply tray
UV or electric polish dryer
Electric hand/foot mitts
Terry cloth mitts
Paraffin bath

9. Implements: Reusable Metal pusher Nipper Tweezers Nail clippers
IMPLEMENTS: Implements are tools that can be either sanitized or disposed of. Reusable tools are generally made of stainless steel. Disposables are for single use only.

10. Implements: Disposable
Brushes and applicators
Wooden pusher
Nail brush

11. Materials Abrasive files and buffers Two- or three-way buffer
Disposable or terry towels
Gauze, cotton, pads
Plastic or metal spatulas
MATERIALS: Materials and supplies used during a manicure are designed to be disposable and must be replaced for each client. These items are considered to be nondisinfectable and are not reusable.

12. Professional Cosmetic Products
Soap
Polish remover
Nail creams and oils
Cuticle removers
Nail bleach

13. Professional Cosmetic Products (continued)
Colored polishes
Base coat
Hardener
Protein, formaldehyde, dimethyl urea
Top coat

14. Professional Cosmetic Products (continued)
Nail polish dryers
Hand cream or lotion
Nail conditioners
Sunscreens

15. Basic Manicure Pre-service: cleaning tools, preparation
Service: step-by-step plan for service
Post-service: caring for client after procedure
BASIC MANICURE
The basic manicure is the foundation of all nail technology services; it is vital that you know and recognize all of the components necessary for making the basic manicure service successful.
NOTE: Explain that the actual procedures will be covered during the practical portion of the class.

16. Hand Washing Washing prevents the spread of communicable diseases.
Wash hands before and after each client.
Have clients wash hands before service.
Provide clean nail brushes.
Hand sanitizers do not replace hand washing.

17. Client Consultation
Follow the 10-Step Consultation Method found in Chapter 4 of Milady Standard Cosmetology textbook.

18. Choosing a Nail Shape

19. Choosing a Nail Color Complement skin tone. Coordinate with clothing.
Allow client to choose.

20. Applying Polish Base coat Two coats of polish color Top coat
Thin, even coats to create maximum smoothness and minimum drying time

21. Men’s Manicure Procedure (same as basic without colored polish)
Men’s nail shapes
Men’s massage
Basic color
Marketing to men
MEN'S MANICURE
A man’s manicure is executed using the same procedures as described previously for the basic manicure, though you omit the colored polish and buff the nails with a high-shine buffer. Most men tend to go longer between services and will need a little more work than women on their nails and skin. For male clients, a citrus- or spice-scented hand cream is recommended, rather than a flowery scent.
MEN’S NAIL SHAPES: Men usually prefer their nails shorter than women do. Round nails are the most common choice for male clients because of their natural appearance. Some men prefer their nails very short.
MEN’S MASSAGE: Men will want a firmer effleurage than women, but this does not mean a deep, sports-type massage, since you are not trained to perform that massage. It just means firmer finger movements on the palm and longer, firmer slides in your effleurage movements
MEN’S BASIC COLOR (CLEAR): Men usually prefer buffed nails; clear gloss; or a dull, clear satin coating. You should always discuss the client’s preferences during the client consultation.
Prepare the nails for polish (remove oils and debris) carefully because peeling or chipping gloss is very annoying to men. Use a base coat under the clear to encourage staying power; clear without a base tends to peel. Apply a thin base coat, one thin coat of clear, and a quick-drying top coat, or just one coat of base and a satin clear.
MARKETING TO MEN: Include on your service menu and your Web site a brief written description of what is included in the service and a rundown of the benefits. To target men, distribute flyers at local gyms and athletic stores, or other places where men gather. Sell gift certificates to female clients for their boyfriends or husbands.
Have men’s magazines on hand. Keep décor unisex. Staying open later or opening earlier on chosen days makes it easier for male clients to schedule appointments. Since some male clients might feel self-conscious having services done around women, consider having a weekly or biweekly men’s night, with no women allowed.

22. Massage Benefits Promotes blood circulation Relaxes muscles
Relieves pain
Soothes and relaxes client
MASSAGE
Massage is the manipulation of the soft tissues of the body. It is an ancient therapeutic treatment to promote circulation of the blood and lymph, relaxation of the muscles, and relief from pain, along with many other benefits. A hand and arm massage, a manicuring specialty, is a service that can be offered with all types of manicures. It is included in all spa manicures, and can be performed on most clients.
A massage is one of the client’s highest priorities during the manicure. The massage manipulations should be executed with rhythmic, long, and smooth movements, never leaving the client’s arm or hand untouched during the procedure. Hand and arm massages are optional during a basic manicure, but it is to the advantage of the nail professional to always incorporate the service.

23. General Movements Effleurage (gliding)
Petrissage or kneading (lifting, squeezing)
Tapotement (rapid tapping)
Vibration (trembling, shaking)
Friction (pressing one layer over another)
GENERAL MOVEMENTS
Massage is a series of movements on the human body that, in combination, produce relaxation or treatment. The following massage movements are usually combined to complete a massage:
EFFLEURAGE: (EF-loo-rahzh): A succession of strokes by gliding the hands over an area of the body with varying degrees of pressure or contact.
PETRISSAGE (KNEADING): Lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue.
TAPOTEMENT: Rapid tapping or striking motion of the hands against the skin.
VIBRATION: Continuous trembling or shaking movement applied by the hand without leaving contact with the skin.
FRICTION: Various strokes that manipulate or press one layer of tissue over another.
The pressure and manipulation of the tissues and muscles vary with each type of movement. Petrissage and friction are movements that massage therapists combine for therapeutic purposes and require in-depth training for their safe and comfortable application. The purpose of massage in manicuring is the inducement of relaxation. Effleurage should be perfected, varied, and expertly used in services. Effleurage is relaxing and calming and meets the overall purpose of massage in manicures and pedicures.
In the traditional manicure, the massage is performed after the basic manicure procedures, just before the polish application. After performing a massage, it is essential that the nail plate be thoroughly cleansed to ensure that it is free from any residue such as oil, cream, wax, or lotion. You can use alcohol or nail polish remover to cleanse the nail plate.

24. Special Manicures Spa manicures: include massage and exfoliation
Theme manicures
Aromatherapy: use of volatile essential oils
SPECIAL MANICURES
SPA MANICURES: Require extensive knowledge of nail care and skin care. Usually include relaxing massage and exfoliation. May incorporate the use of rose oils. Additional techniques include paraffin dips, hand masks, and warm, moist towel applications.
THEME MANICURES: Contain products to support the theme, from lotions to oils to masks. Refreshments might even be served to support the theme. Examples include: Chocolate Wonder Manicure and Pedicure or Pumpkin Fall Festival Manicure and Pedicure.
ACTIVITY: Put students into teams of three and have them brainstorm for 10 minutes about all the themes they can think of for nail care services. Reward the team with the most ideas at the end of the designated time.
AROMATHERAPY: Discovered by Rene-Maurice Gattefosse, a French scientist; involves the use of highly concentrated volatile essential oils. Practice requires extensive study; otherwise, only blended oils that are already mixed and tested should be used as directed.

25. Paraffin Wax Treatment
Paraffin: petroleum-based product that has excellent sealing properties to retain moisture in the skin
Heating units: solid wax melted into a gel-like liquid and maintained at temperature between 125 and 130 degrees

26. Nail Art Techniques Freehand Airbrush Glue-on Three dimensional
Simple to complex
Portrait
Modern

27. Nail Art

28. Practical Class Procedures
Pre-Service Procedure
Post-Service Procedure
Hand Washing
Handling an Exposure Incident
Performing a Basic Manicure
Hand and Arm Massage
Polishing the Nails
Paraffin Wax Treatment
PRACTICAL CLASS PROCEDURES
NOTE: Based on your practical class schedule, hand out the procedure sheets from the Course Management Guide, LP 25.0, and have students follow along as you demonstrate each procedure or show the applicable DVD presentation.

29. Summary and Review
Name four types of nail implements used to perform a manicure.
What is the difference between reusable and disposable implements?
Why is it important for both the client and the nail tech to wash their hands before nail services?
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
During your time in school it is important that you learn the basic procedures of nail technology, as well as the importance of proper cleaning, disinfection, and other skills necessary for ensuring client safety and enjoyment during nail procedures. You must make the commitment to continue to learn and grow as a nail technician if you want to remain competitive in today’s marketplace. The “real world’’ requires that you perform at a very high level of expertise, and you are expected to have a great deal of knowledge and skill, far beyond the basics.
Advanced techniques in manicuring are learned from your instructor, as well as through attending advanced nail care seminars, reading trade magazines, and attending beauty shows.
1. Name four types of nail tools used to perform a manicure.
Answer: Equipment, implements, materials, professional cosmetic nail products.
2. What is the difference between reuseable and disposable implements?
Answer: Reusable implements are used on more than one client because they can be properly cleaned and disinfected. Disposable implements cannot be reused and must be thrown away after a single use.
3. Why is it important for both the client and the nail tech to wash their hands before nail services?
Answer: The reason cosmetologists and clients should wash their hands before every nail service is to reduce the likelihood of spreading communicable diseases in the salon.

30. Summary and Review (continued)
Is a consultation necessary each time a client has a service in the salon? Why?
Name the basic nail shapes for women.
What is the most popular nail shape for men?
Which massage movement is most appropriate for a hand and arm massage? Why?
What is the difference between a basic manicure and a spa manicure?
4. Is a consultation necessary each time a client has a service in the salon? Why?
Answer: Yes, a consultation should be performed each time a client has a service. It is an opportunity for the tech and the client to get to know one another more and to determine the client’s expectations and needs.
5. Name the basic nail shapes for women.
Answer: Round, oval, square, squoval, and pointed.
6. What is the most popular nail shape for men?
Answer: Round.
7. Which massage movement is most appropriate for a hand and arm massage? Why?
Answer: Effleurage, because it is performed gently and designed to help the client relax.
8. What is the difference between a basic manicure and a spa manicure?
Answer: The basic manicure is focused primarily on the nails and care of the nails, while a spa manicure encompasses not only extensive knowledge of nail care but skin care, as well.

31. Summary and Review (continued)
How is aromatherapy used in manicuring services?
Explain the use and benefits of paraffin wax in manicuring.
List the correct steps for cleaning and disinfecting nail implements and tools.
What would be on the manicure table if properly set up?
9. How is aromatherapy used in manicuring services?
Answer: Aromatherapy oils are used in manicures, pedicures, and massages to induce relaxation or invigoration or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during the service.
10. Explain the use and benefits of paraffin wax in manicuring.
Answer: Paraffin wax treatments are designed to trap moisture in the skin while the heat causes skin pores to open to increase blood circulation and enhance penetration of products.
11. List the correct steps for cleaning and disinfecting nail implements and tools.
Answer:
Put on gloves, then prepare implements by washing them with warm water, soap, and a brush until all debris and oils are removed.
Pat dry.
Immerse in an EPA-approved disinfection liquid in a disinfection container for the appropriate time according to the manufacturer instructions and state regulations.
Remove from the liquid, rinse, dry, then place in clean storage until use.
12. What would be on the manicure table if properly set up?
Answer: Gloves, finger bowl, client’s arm cushion, service cushion, gauze and cotton wipe container, trash containers, wooden pusher, abrasive nail files and buffers, two- or three-way buffer, disposable or terry-cloth towels, polish remover, nail creams, lotions, penetrating nail oils, cuticle removers, nail bleach, colored polish, enamel, lacquer, varnish, base coat, nail hardener, top coat, nail polish dryers, hand creams and lotions, nail conditioners. Optional items include a supply tray, ultraviolet or electric nail polish dryer, electric hand/foot mitts, and terry-cloth mitts.

32. Summary and Review (continued)
What are the steps in the post-service procedure?
What is an exposure incident and what steps should be taken if one occurs?
List the steps in a basic manicure.
13. What are the steps in the post-service procedure?
Answer:
Escort the client to the front desk to schedule next appointment and to pay for the service.
Thank client for his or her business.
Record service information, observations, and product recommendations on the client
service form.
Clean work area.
Disinfect tools and implements and reset work area with disinfected tools.
14. What is an Exposure incident and what steps should be taken if one occurs?
Answer: AN EXPOSURE INCIDENT IS WHEN BLOOD IS DRAWN IN THE SALON. THE STEPS THAT SHOULD BE TAKEN ARE:
Stop the service immediately and put on gloves.
Apply pressure to stop bleeding and then clean with an antiseptic.
Apply an adhesive bandage to completely cover the wound.
Clean and disinfect workstation as necessary.
Discard all disposable contaminated objects by double-bagging (placing the waste in a plastic bag and then in a trash bag). Use a biohazard sticker (red or orange) or a container for contaminated waste.
Disinfect tools and implements.
Remove your gloves, wash your hands with soap and warm water, and complete the service.
15. List the steps in the basic manicure.
Remove polish.
Shape the nails.
Soften the eponychium and cuticle.
Clean nail surfaces.
Dry the hand.
Apply cuticle remover.
Loosen and remove cuticles.
Clip away dead tags of skin.
Clean under free edge.
Brush away debris.
Buff with a high-shine buffer, if desired.
Apply nail oil.
Bevel nails.
Apply lotion and massage.
Perform hand and arm massage.
Remove trace oils.
Polish nails.

33. Summary and Review (continued)
How is nail polish properly applied?
What is the procedure for a paraffin wax hand treatment before a manicure?
16. How Is nail polish properly applied?
Answer:
Remove the oils from the nail plate with acetone.
Apply a thin coat of a base.
Dip the polish brush into a bottle and remove the polish from the side of the brush not being applied to the nail while removing it from the bottle.
Place the polish brush 1/4 inch from the eponychium of the nail; press gently, fanning the brush; then push it toward the eponychium to form an evenly round border at the back of the nail, leaving about 1/16-inch border of nail showing at the posterior. Pull the brush to the free edge at the center of the nail plate.
Polish each side of the nail, beside the center stroke.
After the first coat, wipe the brush across the end of the free edge, lightly polishing the tip of the nail.
Apply the second coat (without the fanning step).
Apply the top coat and/or the drying top coat.
17. What is the procedure for a paraffin wax hand treatment before a manicure?
The client washes hands.
The client is seated, and then the paraffin is applied.
The paraffin is covered with plastic wrap or a plastic mitt, then with a terry-cloth or electric mitt.
The client sits for the procedure’s designated time.
The manicure begins.

34. You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.
Congratulations!
You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.