1. Milady’s Standard Cosmetology
Manicuring
Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

2. cannot do interfere with what
“Do not let what you
cannot do interfere with what
you can do”
John Wooden

3. Objectives
Identify the 4 types of nail implements and/or tools required to perform a manicure
Demonstrate the safe and correct handling of nail implements and tools
Exhibit the proper set-up of a manicuring table

4. Objectives
Demonstrate the necessary 3-part procedure requirements for nail services
Identify the 5 basic nail shapes
Perform a basic and conditioning hot oil manicure, incorporating all safety, sanitation, and disinfection requirements

5. Objectives
Demonstrate the correct technique for the application of nail polish
Perform the 5 basic nail polish applications
Perform the hand and arm massage movements associated with manicuring
Perform a paraffin wax hand treatment

6. Objectives
Display all sanitation, disinfection, and safety requirements essential to nail and hand care services
Define and understand aromatherapy
Identify carrier oils and understand their use
Understand how aromatherapy can be incorporated into a service
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
The word manicure comes from the Latin word manus (which means “hand”) and the word cura (which means “care”). So manicure means just that, to improve the appearance of the hands and nails. It is not only important that you know how to provide this valuable service to your clients, but it is essential that you, as a professional cosmetologist, maintain your own hands and nails in the best possible condition. After all, you will be touching your clients with your hands during every service you offer. It is important that your nails are smooth and don’t scratch the client’s skin or scalp. It’s also important that your hands are smooth and firm but gentle when serving the client.
The early societies of Egypt and China considered long, polished, and colored fingernails as a mark of distinction between the commoners and the aristocrats. Nails were shaped with pumice stones and colored with vegetable dyes. It was in the late 1800s when painted fingernails became a trend among the elite in Paris. Manicuring and wearing nail polish became so popular in the 1920s that barber shops began to offer services for the nails to both women and men. It was by the late 1950s that most every state required a license to practice manicuring. Today, what was once considered a luxury for the elite is a service used by many on a regular basis. Let’s consider some of the characteristics a professional providing nail care services should have.
Knowledge of the structure of the nails.
Knowledge of the composition of the cosmetics used in manicuring.
The ability to give a quality manicure and pedicure efficiently.
The ability to care for the client’s manicuring problems or concerns.
The ability to distinguish between disorders that may be treated and those that must be treated by a physician.
A thorough awareness of the procedures involved in sanitation and disinfection.
You will need to possess all these qualities to be successful in a full service salon.

7. Equipment, Implements, and Materials
Table and lamp
Fingerbowl
Client/technician chair
Disinfectant container
EQUIPMENT, IMPLEMENTS, AND MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT: Permanent items used in nail technology; don't have to be replaced.
Table and lamp. Lamp should be adjustable and have a 40-watt bulb.
Fingerbowl. Plastic, china, or glass for soaking fingers in warm, soapy water.
Client/technician chair.
Disinfectant container large enough to immerse implements.
ACTIVITY: Conduct a discussion among students by asking them if they have ever received a personal service from someone who had dirty fingernails. Perhaps it was a dentist, an optometrist, or a food server. Have them discuss how that made them feel. Relate those feelings to the importance of having manicured hands in any line of work, especially as a cosmetologist.

8. Equipment, Implements, and Materials
Client arm cushion
Wipe container
Supply tray
UV or electric polish dryer
Client arm cushion. Covered with washable cover or sanitized towel.
Wipe container. Holds clean, absorbent cotton.
Supply tray. Holds cosmetics such as polish, etc.
UV or electric polish dryer. Optional, shortens drying time.

9. Implements Wooden pusher Metal pusher Abrasive files and buffers
Nipper
IMPLEMENTS: Tools that can be sanitized or disposed of.
Wooden pusher. For loosening cuticle; hold like a pencil. When applying cosmetics, wrap small piece of cotton around end.
Metal pusher. Used to push back excess cuticle; hold like a pencil.
Abrasive nail files and buffers. Used to shape the free edge of nails. The lower the grit (less than 180 grit), the larger the abrasive particles and the more aggressive for reducing thickness.
Medium grit are 180–240. Fine grit abrasives are those with 240 or higher grit.
To bevel, hold at 45-degree angle and file on top or underneath side. Many can be sanitized and disinfected; check with manufacturer to be sure. If it can’t be disinfected, it must be disposed of after use.
Nipper. Used to trim away tags of dead skin. Never used to trim away eponychium. Hold in palm with blades facing cuticle. Place thumb on one handle and three fingers on other with index finger on screw to guide blade.

10. Implements Tweezers Nail brush Chamois buffer Three-way buffer
Nail clippers
Tweezers. Used to lift small bits of debris from nail plate or remove implements from disinfectant solution.
Nail brush. Used to clean fingernails and dust and debris with warm, soapy water. Hold with bristles turned down and away from you. Place thumb on handle side of brush that is facing you and fingers on other side. Brushes must be properly sanitized and disinfected.
Chamois buffer. Used to add shine and smooth out wavy ridges.
Three-way buffer. Replaces the chamois buffer and creates a high beautiful shine on actual nail plates or artificial nails. They do not require use of buffing powders.
Nail clippers. Used to shorten nails to reduce filing time. Must be properly disinfected after each use.

11. Sanitation for Implements
Wash thoroughly
Fully immerse
Rinse and dry
Store properly
SANITATION FOR IMPLEMENTS: Have two full sets of implements to prevent waiting time while they are being sanitized.
Wash thoroughly in warm soap and water. Rinse well and dry with sanitized towel.
Fully immerse in approved disinfectant solution according to product directions.
Rinse and dry. Rinse implements if required; then air-dry or dry with a clean towel when you remove from disinfectant container.
Store properly. Store in clean container. Do NOT store in sealed containers or plastic bags. One method is to wrap in a clean, dry towel that has been taped or tied close. (NOTE: Never allow hands to come in contact with disinfectant solution.)

12. Materials Disposal towels Brushes and applicators
Cotton balls, pads, or pledgets
Plastic or metal spatulas
Trash containers
MATERIALS: Supplies that are used during a manicure and need to be replaced for each client.
Disposable or terry towels. Fresh, sanitized terry or disposable towel is used to cover client cushion. Another fresh towel is used to dry client's hands after soaking. Other terry or lint-free disposable towels are used for spills, etc.
Brushes and applicators. Brushes and applicators must be properly disinfected if they come in contact with the skin. If they can’t be cleaned, they must be disposed of after use. (Exception: Brushes that are used with self-disinfecting products such as alcohol, monomers, UV gels, primers, etc.) Brushes used to apply penetrating oil must be disinfected.
Cotton balls, pads, or pledgets. Cotton balls, small fiber-free plegets, or lint free, plastic-backed fiber or cotton pads are used to remove polish. Cotton can be wrapped around end of wooden pusher to remove polish from hard-to-reach areas.
Plastic or metal spatulas. Used to remove nail cosmetics from containers. Never use fingers to remove products or the same spatula to remove unlike products from different containers.
Trash containers. A metal, self-closing receptacle operated by a foot pedal should be located near station. They prevent odors and control vapors. It should be lined and closed when not in use.

13. Materials Soap Polish remover Nail creams and oils Cuticle removers
Nail bleach
Soap. Soap and warm water are used to clean the technician’s and client’s hands. Liquid soaps are recommended. NOTE: Ask students why. (Because bar soaps harbor bacteria and can become a breeding place for pathogens.)
Polish remover. Used to dissolve and remove nail polish. They contain solvents (acetone or ethyl acetate). Oil can be used to offset the drying effect. Both acetone- and nonacetone-based removers can be used safely. However, nonacetone removers will not dissolve wrap resins so they are preferred when removing polish from nail wraps.
Nail creams and oils. Designed to soften dry skin around nail plate and increase flexibility of natural nails. They are also designed to seal the surface and hold in moisture. Typically oils have a longer-lasting effect than creams.
Cuticle removers. Designed to loosen and dissolve dead tissue from nail plate for easy removal. They typically contain 2% to 5% sodium or potassium hydroxide plus glycerin or other moisturizing ingredients.
Nail bleach. Used to remove yellow surface discoloration or stains such as tobacco stains. They contain H2O2 or some other keratin bleaching agent. Use as directed.

14. Materials Pumice powder Colored polishes Base coat Hardener Protein
Other types
Formaldehyde
Dimethyl
Pumice powder. Used with chamois buffer to create additional shine to surface of nail plate. It is a mild abrasive, which polishes fine scratches from the surface of the plate.
Colored polishes. Also called enamels, lacquers, or varnishes. Polish is the generic term used to describe any solvent-based colored film applied to the nail plate for adding color or special visual effects. Apply in two coats usually. Products with thicker viscosity will contain fewer solvents and dry more quickly. Thinner viscosity products are slower drying. All polishes are flammable.
Base coat. A colorless layer that improves adhesion of polish. Also prevents staining of natural nail plate.
Hardener. Used to improve surface hardness or durability of weak or thin nail plates. Helps prevent splitting or peeling of nail plate.
Protein hardener. Combination of clear polish and protein. Cannot absorb into nail plate.
Other types. Contain reinforcing fibers such as nylon. Cannot absorb into nail plate.
Formaldehyde hardeners. Contain up to 5% formaldehyde but are typically between .75% and 1%. Keep off skin and never use on hard or brittle nails. only as needed.
Dimethyl urea hardeners. Add cross links to natural nail plate. They do not cause adverse skin reactions.

15. Materials Top coat Nail polish dryers Hand cream or lotions
Nail conditioners
Top coat. Used over polish to prevent chipping and add shine to the finished nail. The main ingredients are acrylic or cellulose-type film formers.
Nail polish dryers. Designed to hasten the drying of nail polishes. Typically applied with dropper, brush, or sprayed on.
Hand cream or lotion. Add a finishing touch to the manicure. They soften and smooth the hands; help skin retain moisture.
Nail conditioners. Used to reduce brittleness of nail plate and moisturize surrounding skin. Use as directed.

16. Basic Table Set-Up Clean table Prepare arm cushion
Fill disinfectant container
Place products
BASIC TABLE SET-UP: Sanitary and properly equipped. Actual placement of supplies may vary.
Clean table.
Prepare arm cushion. Wrap client cushion in clean, sanitized towel, either terry cloth or disposable.
Fill disinfectant container. Fill with clean, agency-approved disinfectant solution 20 minutes before first manicure of day. Use as directed; changed daily or whenever it becomes visibly contaminated with debris. Place washed and dried implements in container, which is placed to the right if technician is right-handed or to left if left-handed.
Place products. Place to right if right-handed or to the left if left-handed, behind disinfectant container.

17. Basic Table Set-Up Place abrasives Place fingerbowl
Prepare for waste disposal
Place polishes
Prepare drawer
Place abrasives. Place to right if right-handed, etc.
Place fingerbowl, brush in middle of table or to left and toward client. Should not be moved during procedure. If doing a reconditioning manicure, replace fingerbowl with electric oil heater.
Prepare for waste disposal. Tape or clip plastic bag to right side of table (or left, if left-handed) if metal trash receptacle with self-closing lid is not available. Bags must be emptied between servicing each client to prevent vapors and odors.
Place polishes to the left. (If left-handed, place on right, opposite other products.)
Prepare drawer. Drawer can contain extra cotton, pumice stone or powder, extra chamois, instant nail dry, or other supplies; sanitize with alcohol. Never place used materials in drawer. Keep clean and organized.

18. Choosing a Nail Shape Square Squoval Round Oval Pointed
CHOOSING A NAIL SHAPE: Consider shape of hands, length of fingers, shape of cuticle area, hobbies, recreational activities, and type of work client does.
Square. Straight across with no rounding at edges; length depends on client’s preference.
Squoval. Should extend only slightly past fingertip with free edge rounded off. Good for clients who work with their hands.
Round. Should be slightly tapered and extend just a bit past fingertip; most common for males.
Oval. Attractive; it is a squoval nail with even more rounded corners.
Pointed. Suited to thin hands with narrow nail beds; tapered somewhat longer that usual to enhance the slender appearance of hand; weak and break.

19. Blood Spill Put on gloves Apply pressure; clean with antiseptic
Stanch bleeding
Complete service if appropriate
Discard used materials
Clean table and disinfect implements
BLOOD SPILL
Blood spill could occur from careless use of nippers or abrasive files. Consider first your safety and that of the client. Don’t panic, but proceed with the following steps.
HANDLING BLOOD SPILL
Put on gloves.
Apply pressure. Clean with antiseptic.
Stanch bleeding.
Complete service if appropriate.
Discard used materials. Blood-contaminated items must be double-bagged or sealed inside a plastic bag and placed in a closed container.
Clean table and disinfect implements.

20. Blood Spill Remove gloves, wash hands Practice Universal Precautions
Remove gloves; wash hands. Wash hands in warm, soapy water for at least 30 seconds.
Practice Universal Precautions.

21. Plain Manicure Pre-Service
Sanitize implements
Rinse implements
Immerse implements
Wash hands
Rinse and dry implements
PLAIN MANICURE
PRE-SERVICE: Applies to both implements and multiuse tools.
Sanitize implements. Rinse with cool or warm running water; thoroughly wash with soap and warm water. Brush grooved items and open hinges if necessary.
Rinse implements. Rinse away traces of soap with cool or warm water. Dry thoroughly before disinfecting.
Immerse implements. Use an EPA-registered disinfectant for the required time (usually 10 minutes). Avoid skin contact by using tongs or rubber gloves.
Wash hands with liquid soap. Rinse and dry with clean or disposable towel.
Rinse and dry implements. Remove implements from disinfectant solution, rinse well, wipe dry with clean or disposable towel to prevent rusting.

22. Plain Manicure Pre-Service
Follow approved storage procedure
Disinfect surface
Prepare client’s cushion
Refill disposable materials
Use hand sanitizers
Follow approved storage procedure. Never store in airtight container that will prevent them from properly drying.
Sanitize table. Wipe with cleaning solution.
Disinfect surface. Spray surface with EPA-registered disinfectant or equivalent allowed by regulatory agency. Allow to remain wet for 10 minutes and wipe dry; spray again and let air dry.
Prepare client’s cushion. Put clean terry or disposable towel over cushion.
Refill disposable materials. Place new wooden pusher, cotton balls, etc., on table. Discard after one use.
Use hand sanitizers. After clients have washed hands, offer waterless hand sanitizer gel.

23. Post-Service Procedure
Schedule next appointment
Advise client
Promote product sales
Clean work area
Disinfect implements
Record service information
POST-SERVICE PROCEDURE
Schedule next appointment. Set up date, time, and services for next appointment. Write on business card and give to client.
Advise client. Advise client about proper home maintenance.
Promote product sales.
Clean work area.
Disinfect implements.
Record service information. Service, observations, and product recommendations should be recorded on client record card.

24. Basic Manicure Pre-service Procedure Post-service
BASIC MANICURE: Three-part procedure.
Pre-service
Do pre-service sanitation.
Greet client with a smile.
Have client remove jewelry. Place in safe, secure place.
Have client wash hands.
Perform client consultation. Use intake card client has already completed.
Actual service
During manicure, talk with client. Talk about products you are using and products they need to purchase.
Before polish application, have client’s replace jewelry. She may need to locate car keys, put on jacket, pay for service, etc., to avoid smudging polish application.
Post-service. Complete post-service procedure.

25. Manicure Procedure Remove polish Shape the nails
MANICURE PROCEDURE: Work on client’s nondominant hand first. Dominant hand needs to soak longer.
Remove polish. Begin with little finger. Saturate cotton ball and hold on nail for count of 10. Repeat until polish is gone. HINT: Rolling cotton ball between hands keeps loose fibers from sticking to nail or finger.
Shape the nails. Using abrasive board, shape nails as desired. Start with little finger and file from corner to center of free edge. Do not file into corners. Do not use a back-and-forth sawing motion. Never file nails that have been soaking in water because water absorbs into nail plate, making it softer and more easily broken or split during filing. Use clippers to reduce filing time.

26. Manicure Procedure Soften cuticles Clean nails Dry hands
Soften cuticles. After filing nails of first hand, place fingertips in fingerbowl to soak and soften the eponychium (living skin) and cuticle (dead tissue around nail plate) while you file nails of other hand.
Clean nails. Remove first hand from fingerbowl and brush fingers with brush. Use downward strokes starting at first knuckle and brushing toward free edge.
Dry hands. Dry hands and in between fingers, gently pushing back eponychium.

27. Manicure Procedure Apply cuticle remover Loosen and remove cuticles
Apply cuticle remover. Apply with cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher or cotton swab. Spread evenly and avoid getting on living skin. Take care as these products typically have a pH of 12 or higher. Follow product directions.
Loosen and remove cuticles. Use wooden pusher or spoon end of metal pusher to gently push and lift cuticle tissue off each nail plate. Use circular movement to help lift the dead, tightly adhering tissue. Place other hand in fingerbowl to soak.

28. Manicure Procedure Nip dead skin Clean under free edge
Repeat steps 5-9 on other hand
Nip dead skin tags. Use nippers to remove any loosely hanging tags of skin or hangnails. Never rip or tear the living skin as this can lead to infection.
Clean under free edge. Carefully clean under free edge using a cotton swab or cotton-tipped wooden pusher. Remove other hand from fingerbowl; hold first hand over fingerbowl and brush a last time to remove bits of debris and traces of cuticle remover.
Repeat steps 5 to 9 on opposite hand.

29. Manicure Procedure Bleach nails (optional)
Buff nails with high shine buffer
Bleach nails (optional). If client’s nails are yellowed, you can bleach them by applying a bleaching agent with a cotton-tipped wooden pusher without getting it on the skin.
Buff with high shine buffer. Use to smooth out surface scratches and give the natural nail a brilliant shine.

30. Manicure Procedure Apply nail oil Bevel nails Apply lotion and massage
Apply nail oil. Use cotton-tipped wooden pusher, cotton swab, or eyedropper to apply nail oil to each nail plate. Start with little finger of first hand and massage oil into nail plate and surrounding skin using a circular motion.
Bevel nails. To bevel underside of free edge, hold a medium or fine grit abrasive board at a 45-degree angle and file with an upward stroke. This removes any rough edges or cuticle particles.
Apply lotion and massage. Apply lotion before applying polish.

31. Manicure Procedure Remove traces of oil Choose polish color
Apply polish
Remove traces of oil. Use small cotton saturated with alcohol or polish remover and scrub nail plate clean. Otherwise, polish will not adhere properly. Clean under free edge also.
Choose polish color. If client is undecided about a color, suggest one that complements skin tone OR one that matches clothing if the client is preparing for a special occasion.
Apply polish.
Remove brush from bottle and wipe on inside neck to remove excess polish. Hold brush at 30- to 35-degree angle and place 1/16th inch away from cuticle area starting at center of nail.
Brush toward free edge of nail.
Use same technique until nail is covered:
Base coat. Apply to keep polish from staining nail.
Colored polish (two coats).
Top coat. Apply to prevent chipping and give glossy finish.
Instant nail dry (optional).

32. 5 Types of Polish Application
Full coverage
Free edge
Hairline tip
Slimline or free walls
Half moon or lunula
FIVE TYPES OF POLISH APPLICATION
Full coverage. Entire nail plate is covered.
Free edge. Free edge is left unpolished (prevents chipping).
Hairline tip. Nail plate is polished and 1/16th inch is removed from free edge (prevents polish chipping).
Slimline or free walls. Leave 1/16th inch margin on each side of nail plate.
Half moon or lunula. A half moon shape, the lunula, at base of nail plate is left unpolished.

33. Finished Manicure

34. French Manicure Apply base coat Apply white polish
FRENCH MANICURE: Exactly the same as a basic manicure except for the polish application.
Apply base coat. On nail plate and under free edge. Use ridge filler as needed.
Apply white polish. Apply to free edge. Start at one side and brush across free edge to center; repeat on other side to create a “V”. If “V” shape is not preferred, fill in the “V” so you have an even line across the free edge. Allow white polish to dry thoroughly. (Kits of strips are available to assist in creating the perfect tip shape with white polish.)

35. French Manicure Apply translucent polish Apply top coat
Apply translucent polish. Apply sheer white, pink, natural, or peach color from base to free edge. Do not get on eponychium. Choose color according to client’s preference and skin tone.
Apply top coat. Apply over entire nail plate and under free edge if applicable.

36. Reconditioning Hot Oil Manicure
Perform pre-service
Begin manicure
Remove old polish
Shape nails
Apply oil
Apply lotion
RECONDITIONING HOT OIL MANICURE: Benefit to clients who have ridges and brittle nails or dry skin around nail plate.
PROCEDURE
Perform pre-service, including sanitation and table set-up.
Begin manicure. Begin working on nondominant hand; talk to client about professional products for home use.
Remove old polish.
Shape nails.
Apply oil. Apply penetrating, conditioning oil with cotton swab or eye dropper and massage into nail plate and surrounding skin.
Apply lotion. Apply hand lotion and spread over hand, arm, and elbow.

37. Reconditioning Hot Oil Manicure
Proceed with hand and arm massage.
Remove cuticle tissue
Remove dead skin tags
Repeat on other hand
Remove oil
Proceed with hand/arm massage.
Remove cuticle tissue. Use wooden or metal pusher covered with cotton to gently push back eponychium.
Remove dead skin tags. Use nippers to trim any tags of dead skin.
Repeat on other hand. Distribute lotion to other hand. Proceed with steps 7 to 9.
Remove oil. Saturate cotton in alcohol or polish remover.

38. Man’s Manicure
MAN'S MANICURE: Procedure is the same without colored polish. The polish step is replaced with either clear polish or buffing nails with a high shine abrasive buffer.

39. Paraffin Wax Procedure
Perform pre-service
Check hands for wounds or diseases
Apply moisturizing lotion
Test temperature of wax
Position hand for dipping
PARAFFIN WAX TREATMENT: Paraffin is a petroleum by-product that works by trapping moisture in the skin while heat causes skin pores to open and increases blood circulation. Special warming units are used to melt solid wax into a liquid that is maintained between 125 and 250 degrees F. Follow all instructions that come with heating unit.
PARAFFIN WAX PROCEDURE: This procedure is performed BEFORE manicure.
Perform pre-service.
Check client’s hands to ensure there are no open wounds or diseases.
Apply moisturizing lotion. Gently massage into skin.
Test temperature of wax.
Position hand for dipping. Palm should be flat with wrist slightly bent and fingers slightly apart.

40. Paraffin Wax Procedure
Dip one hand
Repeat process 3–5 times
Wrap hands
Repeat procedure on other hand
Dip one hand. Aid client in dipping hand up to wrist for about 3 seconds. Remove and allow wax to solidify before dipping again.
Repeat process 3 to 5 times.
Wrap hands. Wrap hands in plastic wrap or insert them into plastic gloves before inserting them, into a warming mitt.
Repeat procedure on other hand.

41. Paraffin Wax Procedure
Let hands rest 5–10 minutes
Remove paraffin
Dispose of used paraffin
Begin manicure procedure
Let hands rest. Allow paraffin to remain on hands for 5 to 10 minutes.
Remove paraffin. With plastic gloves still on hands, start at wrist, massage client’s hands to gently loosen wax, and peel paraffin from hands inside glove.
Dispose of used paraffin. It is unsanitary to reuse paraffin.
Begin manicure procedure.

42. Paraffin Wax During Manicure
Perform pre-service
Remove polish, shape nails, repair if needed
Apply moisturizer
Test temperature
Perform paraffin, dipping, wrapping, resting, and removal steps
Continue manicure procedure
PARAFFIN WAX PROCEDURE: Procedure when performed during manicure
Perform pre-service.
Remove polish. Shape nails; repair if needed.
Apply moisturizer.
Test temperature.
Perform paraffin, dipping, wrapping, resting, and removal steps.
Continue manicure procedure.

43. Hand Massage Relaxer movement Joint movement on fingers
HAND MASSAGE: Can be offered with any manicure service. It is usually a client’s high priority. It is recommended after basic manicure procedure and before polish application. Always remove oil or lotion residues before applying polish.
Relaxer movement. Place client’s elbow on cushion covered with clean towel. With one hand, brace client’s arm. With your other hand, hold client’s wrist and bend it back and forth slowly, about 5 to 10 times, until you feel client has relaxed.
Joint movement on fingers. Bring client’s arm down, brace the arm with the left hand and with your right hand start with the little finger, holding it at the base of the nail. Gently rotate fingers to form circles. Work toward the thumb, rotating 3 to 5 times on each finger.

44. Hand Massage Circular movement in palm Circular movement on wrist
Circular movement on back of hands and fingers
Circular movement in palm. Use effleurage or light stroking that relaxes and soothes. Place client’s elbow on cushion, and with your thumbs in client’s palm, rotate in a circular movement in opposite directions.
Circular movement on wrist. Hold client’s hand with both of your hands, placing thumbs on top of client’s hand, your fingers below hand. Move your thumbs in a circular movement in opposite directions from client’s wrist to the knuckle on back of client’s hand. Move up and down 3 to 5 times. The last time you rotate up, wring the client’s wrist by bracing your hands around the wrist and gently twisting in opposite directions. This is a form of friction massage.
Circular movement on back of hands and fingers. Rotate down back of client’s hand using your thumbs. Rotate down little finger and client’s thumb and gently squeeze off at the tips of client’s fingers. Then do ring and index fingers; then middle finger and squeeze off at tip.
DO NOT MASSAGE if client has high blood pressure, heart condition, or has had a stroke. Also be careful of vigorous massage of joints if client has arthritis or joint injury.

45. Arm Massage Distribution of lotion or cream Effleurage on arms
Wringing/friction movement
ARM MASSAGE TECHNIQUES
Distribute lotion or cream. Apply small amount of lotion to client’s arm and work it in. Work from wrist toward elbow, except on last movement; work from elbow to wrist, then squeeze off at fingertips, as you did at end of hand massage. Apply more lotion if necessary.
Effleurage on arms. Put client’s arm down on table, bracing arm with your hands. Hold client’s hand palm up in your hand. Your fingers should be under client’s hand; your thumbs should be side by side in client’s palm. Rotate thumbs in opposite directions, starting at client’s wrist and working toward elbow. When you reach elbow, slide your hand down client’s arm to the wrist and rotate back up to elbow 3 to 5 times. Turn client’s arm over and repeat 3 to 5 times on top side of arm.
Wringing/friction movement. Bend client’s elbow so arm is horizontal in front of you with the back of hand facing up. Place your hands around the arm with your fingers facing same direction as arm and gently twist in opposite directions as you would wring out a washcloth, from wrist to elbow. Do this up and down forearm 3 to 5 times.

46. Arm Massage Kneading movement Rotation of elbow
Kneading movement. Petrissage kneading is stimulating and increases blood circulation. Place your thumbs on top side of client’s arm so they are horizontal. Move them in opposite directions, from wrist to elbow and back down to wrist. This squeezing motion moves flesh over bone and stimulates arm tissue. Repeat 3 to 5 times.
Rotation of elbow. To perform this friction massage movement, brace client’s arm with your left hand and apply lotion to elbow. Cup elbow with your right hand and rotate your hand over client’s elbow. Repeat 3 to 5 times. To finish the elbow massage, move your left arm to top of client’s forearm. Gently slide both hands down forearm from elbow to fingertips as if climbing a rope.

47. Spa Manicure Include exfoliation The rose garden
The alpha hydroxy acid
SPA MANICURE: More advanced than basic manicures. Spa manicures include relaxing massage and some form of exfoliation for polishing and smoothing as well as enhancing penetration of your professional products.
EXAMPLES:
The Rose Garden. Rejuvenation manicure uses rose oils and rose petals for ambience.
The alpha hydroxy acid manicure uses an AHA (alpha hydroxyl acid) based products for exfoliation and skin rejuvenation. Spa manicure will likely consist of aromatic paraffin dips; aromatherapy; aromatic hand and arm massages with oils and lotions; hand masks; warm, moist towels.

48. Aromatherapy The use of essential oils to produce different aromas
AROMATHERAPY: The use of essential oils to produce different aromas. For example, scotch pine yields a different aroma from needles than from resin and wood.

49. Ten Basic Essential Oils
Lavender
Chamomile
Marjoram
Rosemary
Tea tree
Cypress
Peppermint
Eucalyptus
Bergamot
Geranium
TEN BASIC ESSENTIAL OILS: Lavender, chamomile, marjoram, rosemary, tea tree, cypress, peppermint, eucalyptus, bergamot, geranium.

50. Carrier Oils Sweet almond Sunflower seed Apricot Avocado Grapeseed
Jojoba
Olive
CARRIER OILS: A base oil with an essential oil added for easier use and less concentration that can cause skin irritation. Included are sweet almond, sunflower seed, apricot, avocado, grapeseed, jojoba, and olive.
REFER TO CHARTS IN TEXTBOOK for results and recipes.

51. Summary and Review List 4 types of nail implements
Describe procedures for sanitizing and disinfecting implements
Describe procedures for handling blood spills
Describe procedure for basic manicure table set-up
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
It is essential that you learn all the basic manicure procedures and know all the regulatory agency requirements governing manicure procedures. You must practice sanitation, disinfection, and safety procedures at all times to ensure the health and welfare of the client. When you have mastered the various techniques, you will be able to make nail services a large part of your income.
Let’s review.
List the four types of nail implements or tools used in manicuring.
ANSWER: Wooden pusher, metal pusher, abrasive nail files and buffers, nipper, tweezers, nail brush, chamois buffer, three-way buffer, clippers.
Describe the procedures for sanitizing and disinfecting implements.
ANSWER: Wash with warm water; fully immerse implements; rinse and dry; store properly.
Briefly describe the procedures for handling blood in a salon.
ANSWER: Put on gloves; apply pressure; stanch bleeding; complete service; discard used materials; clean table and disinfect implements; remove gloves and wash hands.
Describe the procedure for a basic manicure table set-up.
ANSWER: Clean table; prepare arm cushion; fill disinfectant container; place products; place abrasives; place fingerbowl; prepare for waste disposal; place polishes; and prepare drawer.

52. Summary and Review List 2 types of polish removers
Why is having an MSDS for all products important?
List the 5 basic nail shapes
What special factors should be considered when selecting the nail shape?
List and discuss the 3-part procedure sequence required in manicuring
List two types of polish removers.
ANSWER: Acetone and nonacetone.
Why is having a material safety data sheet for all the products used in a salon important?
ANSWER: They provide valuable safe handling information, ingredient information, first aid procedures, and proper storage information.
List the five basic nail shapes.
ANSWER: Square, squoval, round, oval, pointed.
What special factors should be considered when selecting the nail shape?
ANSWER: The shape of hands, length of fingers, shape of cuticle area, hobbies, recreational activities, and type of work client does.
List and discuss the three-part procedure sequence required in manicuring.
ANSWER: Pre-service; service; post-service.

53. Summary and Review
Describe the correct procedures for polish application
What is the purpose of a conditioning oil treatment?
Discuss the basic differences between a manicure for a man and a manicure for a woman
Describe the correct procedures for polish application.
ANSWER:
Remove brush from bottle and wipe on inside neck to remove excess polish.
Hold brush at 30- to 35-degree angle and place 1/16th inch away from cuticle area starting at center of nail.
Brush toward free edge of nail.
Use same technique until nail is covered.
What is the purpose of a conditioning oil treatment?
ANSWER: Improves the hand and nail plate condition; leaves skin soft; recommended for ridges and brittle nails or dry skin around nail plate; soften brittle or overly rigid nails.
Discuss the basic differences between a manicure for a man and a manicure for a woman.
ANSWER: Colored polish is not applied to a man’s nails; clear polish or high shine buffing is completed instead.

54. Summary and Review What are the benefits of a paraffin wax treatment?
List the suggested procedures for performing a wax treatment
What are the benefits of a paraffin wax treatment?
ANSWER: It opens pores, increases blood circulation, and traps in moisture.
List the suggested procedures for performing a paraffin wax treatment.
ANSWER:
Perform pre-service.
Remove polish; shape nails; repair if needed.
Apply moisturizer; gently massage into skin.
Perform steps 9 to 17 of regular basic manicure.
Continue manicure procedure.

55. Summary and Review Name the 5 hand massage techniques
Name five hand and arm massage techniques.
ANSWER:
HAND MASSAGE
Relaxer movement. Place client’s elbow on cushion covered with clean towel. With one hand, brace client’s arm. With your other hand, hold client’s wrist and bend it back and forth slowly, about 5 to 10 times, until you feel client has relaxed.
Joint movement on fingers. Bring client’s arm down, brace the arm with the left hand, and with your right hand start with the little finger, holding it at the base of the nail. Gently rotate fingers to form circles. Work toward the thumb, rotating 3 to 5 times on each finger.
Circular movement in palm. Use effleurage or light stroking that relaxes and soothes. Place client’s elbow on cushion, and with your thumbs in client’s palm, rotate in a circular movement in opposite directions.
Circular movement on wrist. Hold client’s hand with both of your hands, placing thumbs on top of client’s hand, your fingers below hand. Move your thumbs in a circular movement in opposite directions from client’s wrist to the knuckle on back of client’s hand. Move up and down 3 to 5 times. The last time you rotate up, wring the client’s wrist by bracing your hands around the wrist and gently twisting in opposite directions. This is a form of friction massage.
Circular movement on back of hands and fingers. Rotate down back of client’s hand using your thumbs. Rotate down little finger and client’s thumb and gently squeeze off at the tips of client’s fingers. Then do ring and index fingers; then middle finger and squeeze off at tip.
DO NOT MASSAGE if client has high blood pressure, heart condition, or has had a stroke. Also be careful of vigorous massage of joints if client has arthritis or joint injury.

56. Summary and Review List arm massage techniques
Distribute lotion or cream. Apply small amount of lotion to client’s arm and work it in. Work from wrist toward elbow, except on last movement; work from elbow to wrist, then squeeze off at fingertips, as you did at end of hand massage. Apply more lotion if necessary.
Effleurage on arms. Put client’s arm down on table, bracing arm with your hands. Hold client’s hand palm up in your hand. Your fingers should be under client’s hand; your thumbs should be side by side in client’s palm. Rotate thumbs in opposite directions, starting at client’s wrist, working toward elbow. When you reach elbow, slide your hand down client’s arm to the wrist and rotate back up to elbow 3 to 5 times. Turn client’s arm over and repeat 3 to 5 times on top side of arm.
Wringing/friction movement. Bend client’s elbow so arm is horizontal in front of you with the back of hand facing up. Place your hands around the arm with your fingers facing same direction as arm and gently twist in opposite directions as you would wring out a washcloth, from wrist to elbow. Do this up and down forearm 3 to 5 times.
Kneading movement. Petrissage kneading is stimulating and increases blood circulation. Place your thumbs on top side of client’s arm so they are horizontal. Move them in opposite directions, from wrist to elbow and back down to wrist. This squeezing motion moves flesh over bone and stimulates arm tissue. Repeat 3 to 5 times.
Rotation of elbow. Friction massage movement. Brace client’s arm with your left hand and apply lotion to elbow. Cup elbow with your right hand and rotate your hand over client’s elbow. Repeat 3 to 5 times. To finish the elbow massage, move your left arm to top of client’s forearm. Gently slide both hands down forearm from elbow to fingertips as if climbing a rope.

57. Summary and Review What is aromatherapy? How are essential oils used?
ANSWER: The practice of aromatherapy involves the use of essential oils, which are extracted by various forms of distillation from botanical sources in various parts of the plant, including seeds, bark, roots, leaves, wood, and resin. Each part produces a different aroma.
How are essential oils used?
ANSWER: Essential oils can be used for many purposes, including first-aid, immunity, antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, relaxant, antispasmodic, digestion, antiseptics, stimulating circulation, clearing sinuses, energy, water retention, tranquility, etc.

58. Summary and Review List at least 5 basic essential oils and their uses
• List five basic essential oils and their uses.
ANSWER:
Lavender. Herbaceous (having the characteristics of an herb), overall first-aid oil, antiviral and antibacterial, boosts immunity, antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, relaxant, balance, and antispasmodic.
Chamomile. Fruity, anti-inflammatory, digestive, relaxant, PMS, soothes frayed nerves, migraine, stamina, and antidepressant.
Marjoram. Herbaceous, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, headaches, comfort, menstrual cramps, and antiseptic.
Rosemary. Camphoraceous (from the wood or bark of the camphor tree), stimulating to circulation, relieves pain, a decongestant.
Tea tree. Camphoraceous, antifungal, and antibacterial.
Cypress. Coniferous (mostly from evergreen trees with cones, such as pine). Astringent, stimulating to circulation, and antiseptic.
Peppermint. Minty, digestive, clears sinuses, antiseptic, energy, decongestant, and stimulant.
Eucalyptus. Camphoraceous, decongestant, antiviral, antibacterial, and stimulant.
Bergamot. Citrus aroma, antidepressant, antiviral, antibacterial, water retention, and anti-inflammatory.
Geranium. Floral, balancing to mind and body, tranquility, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory.

59. Summary and Review Why is the carrier oil sometimes necessary?
ANSWER: A carrier oil is a base oil with an essential oil added for easier use and less concentration that can cause skin irritation.

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