1. Shampooing, Rinsing, and Conditioning
Cosmetology:
Shampooing, Rinsing, and Conditioning
Milady’s
Standard
Cosmetology

2. “Ability is what you’re capable of doing
“Ability is what you’re capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it”
Lou Holtz

3. Objectives Explain pH and its importance in shampoo selection
Explain the role of surfactants in shampoo
Discuss the uses and benefits of various types of shampoos and conditioners

4. Shampooing Purpose: To cleanse the hair and scalp Hair types
Dry, oily, normal, chemically treated
Hair condition
Chemically treated, overprocessed, damaged
Home maintenance
Proper products enhance your services; improper products diminish your services
UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOO
PURPOSE: To cleanse the hair and scalp before receiving a service.
DEFINITION: To subject the scalp and hair to cleaning and massaging with some cleansing agent such as soap or detergent OR with a product formulated for cleansing the hair and scalp. The term comes from the Hindi language meaning “to cleanse.”
SHAMPOO SELECTION CONSIDERATIONS
Hair type. Dry, oily, normal, chemically treated.
Hair condition. Overprocessing, chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure to the elements.
Home maintenance. Inappropriate products used at home can diminish the quality service you have provided.

5. The pH Scale Acid: 0 – 6.9 Neutral: 7.0 Alkaline: 7.1 – 14
Litmus paper test
THE pH SCALE: The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 0 to 14.
Acid - 0 to 6.9 pH
Neutral - 7.0
Alkaline 7.1 to 14. The higher the alkalinity, the stronger and harsher the shampoo, which can leave the hair dry and brittle.
History of pH-balanced shampoos. In the 1960s, Jheri Redding founded Redken, Jhirmack, Nexxus, and Jheri Redding Products. He marketed the first pH-balanced shampoos. The litmus paper test was key in his marketing strategies.

6. The Chemistry of Water Water is the universal solvent, meaning it is capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent.
Soft water – Has fewer minerals
Hard water – Has more minerals than soft water.

7. The Chemistry of Water
Purification - Fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use.
Sedimentation - a treatment that causes matter to sink to the bottom
Filtration - passing through a porous substance such as a filter paper or charcoal) to remove suspended clay, sand, and organic material.
Boiling – 212 degrees
Distillation - the process of heating water so it becomes a vapor, then condensing the vapor so that it collects as a liquid
THE CHEMISTRY OF WATER: Water is the universal solvent, meaning it is capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent.
Purification. Fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use.
Sedimentation. A treatment that causes matter to sink to the bottom.
Filtration. Passing through a porous substance, such as filter paper or charcoal. The process removes suspended clay, sand, and organic material.
Chlorine added. Small amounts are added to kill bacteria.
Boiling. 212 degrees Fahrenheit or 100 degrees Celsius. Destroys microbes.
Distillation. The process of heating water so it becomes a vapor, then condensing the vapor so that it collects as a liquid. This process is used frequently in the manufacture of cosmetics.
Soft water. Rain water or chemically softened water. It contains small amounts of minerals and allows soap and shampoo to lather freely.
Hard water. Contains minerals that lessen the ability of soap or shampoo to lather readily. Can be softened by a chemical process.
ACTIVITY: Ask students to share their experiences with hard and soft water. For example, ask them if they have ever taken a shower in extremely softened water. Perhaps they have experienced that feeling of never being able to get the soap off or the shampoo out of their hair. Or conversely, maybe they have showered in water so hard, they couldn’t seem to get it to lather at all.

8. The Chemistry of Shampoos An understanding of the chemical ingredients used in shampoos will help you prescribe the best product for your clients.
WATER: The main ingredient, but purified or deionized. Water is usually listed first on product labels because it represents the largest percentage of all ingredients. All others are listed in descending order.
SURFACTANT MOLECULE: Surfactant and detergent are synonymous, meaning cleansing or “surface active” agent.
THE CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS: An understanding of the chemical ingredients used in shampoos will help you prescribe the best product for your clients.
WATER: The main ingredient, but purified or deionized. Water is usually listed first on product labels because it represents the largest percentage of all ingredients. All others are listed in descending order.
SURFACTANT MOLECULE: Surfactant and detergent are synonymous, meaning cleansing or “surface active” agent.
Hydrophilic end. This is the “head” end of a shampoo molecule and is “water-attracting.”
Lipophilic end. This is the “tail” end of a shampoo molecule and is “oil-attracting.”
Since both ends are working during a shampoo, a push-pull effect is created that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to form little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair. See Figures 13-3 through 13-6.

9. Types of Shampoos Shampoo products represent the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products.
Acid-balanced –
Conditioning- Adds moisture to hair
Medicated – example; dandruff shampoo
Clarifying – get hairspray build up off the hair. Do not use every time you shampoo.
TYPES OF SHAMPOO: Shampoo products represent the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products.
Acid-balanced: Has a pH the same as hair of 4.5 to By adding citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid to any shampoo, it can become acid-balanced.
Some believe that a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 is essential to prevent excessive dryness and hair damage. The Consumer’s Union chemists believe a pH between 5 and 8 is too small to affect the hair and scalp due to the limited time of actual application.
Conditioning. Or moisturizing shampoos are designed to make hair smooth and shiny, improve manageability, and avoid damage to chemically treated hair. Protein and biotin are conditioning agents that restore moisture and elasticity, strengthen the hair shaft, and add volume. They are also nonstripping.
Medicated. Reduce dandruff or relieve scalp conditions. Some require a prescription.
Clarifying. Contain an acidic ingredient like cider vinegar to cut through product buildup. They increase shine. These shouldn’t be used regularly, but as needed.

10. Types of Shampoos
Balancing. Wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from drying out.
Dry or powder. Used when client’s health prevents a wet shampoo. It cleanses without the use of soap and water. Powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb through the hair.
Color-enhancing. The shampoo surfactant is combined with basic dyes. Similar to temporary rinses; removed with plain shampooing; used to brighten, to add some slight color, and to eliminate unwanted color tones.
For hairpieces and wigs. Special solutions are formulated for these.
Balancing. Wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from drying out.
Dry or powder. Used when client’s health prevents a wet shampoo. It cleanses without the use of soap and water. Powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb through the hair.
Color-enhancing. The shampoo surfactant is combined with basic dyes. Similar to temporary rinses; removed with plain shampooing; used to brighten, to add some slight color, and to eliminate unwanted color tones.
For hairpieces and wigs. Special solutions are formulated for these. See Chapter 17.
SHAMPOO AND RETAILING: Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-home use.

11. Conditioners
Special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or moisturizer, to help restore its strength and give it body, or to protect against possible breakage. They are a temporary “fix” and cannot “heal” damaged hair or improve the quality of new hair growth. Remember: heredity, health, and diet control the texture and structure of hair.

12. Conditioners Deposit protein and moisturizer
Restore strength and give body
Protect against breakage
Types
Rinse out
Treatment or repair
Leave in
CONDITIONERS: Special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or moisturizer, to help restore its strength and give it body, or to protect against possible breakage. They are a temporary “fix” and cannot “heal” damaged hair or improve the quality of new hair growth. Remember: heredity, health, and diet control the texture and structure of hair.
RECONSTRUCTOR TYPES
Rinse-out. These are also called finishing or cream rinses that are worked through the hair for detangling.
Treatment or repair. Deep, penetrating conditioners that are left on hair for 10 to 20 minutes, restoring protein and moisture. Heat may increase penetration.
Leave-in. These are applied and not rinsed out.

13. Formulation Silicone and moisture-binding humectants
Emollients – Reduce frizz
Synthetic polymers – Bulk up the hair
Proteins – Penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft within.
FORMULATION
Silicone and moisture-binding humectants. These substances absorb moisture or promote the retention of moisture.
Emollients. Reduce frizz.
Synthetic polymers. Bulk up the hair.
Proteins. Penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft from within.
AVOID BUILDUP: Overuse can make hair heavy and oily, leading to more shampooing, which can strip the hair shaft of its protective oils, etc.

14. Conditioning Effects Smooth the cuticle
Penetrate the cortex. The cortex makes up 90% of the hair strand and can be penetrated with protein conditioners to reconstruct the hair.
Moisturize. Moisturizing conditioners contain humectants that attract moisture from the air and are absorbed into the cortex.
CONDITIONING EFFECTS
Smooth the cuticle
Penetrate the cortex. The cortex makes up 90% of the hair strand and can be penetrated with protein conditioners to reconstruct the hair.
Moisturize. Moisturizing conditioners contain humectants that attract moisture from the air and are absorbed into the cortex.

15. Product Types Instant conditioners Moisturizers Protein conditioners
Deep conditioning treatments
PRODUCT TYPES
Instant conditioners. Remain on the hair for 1 to 5 minutes or are “leave-in.” Contain humectants to improve the appearance of dry, brittle hair. Also contain an acid to balance the alkalinity of a prior chemical service.
Moisturizers. Have a longer application time of 10 to 20 minutes. Ingredients are formulated to be more penetrating and have longer staying power. Some require heat application. Quats are used to increase the ability to attach to hair fibers and provide longer-lasting protection.
Protein conditioners. Slightly increase hair diameter and add body to hair. Available in several strengths. Used to improve hair strength and temporarily close split ends. They improve appearance, equalize porosity, and increase elasticity. See Fig 13-7.
Deep conditioning treatments. Also known as hair masks or conditioning packs. Chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer. They penetrate several cuticle layers; chosen when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein treatment is required.

16. Product Types
Instant conditioners. Remain on the hair for 1 to 5 minutes or are “leave-in.” Contain humectants to improve the appearance of dry, brittle hair. Also contain an acid to balance the alkalinity of a prior chemical service.
Moisturizers. Have a longer application time of 10 to 20 minutes. Ingredients are formulated to be more penetrating and have longer staying power. Some require heat application. Quats are used to increase the ability to attach to hair fibers and provide longer-lasting protection.

17. Product Types
Protein conditioners. Slightly increase hair diameter and add body to hair. Available in several strengths. Used to improve hair strength and temporarily close split ends. They improve appearance, equalize porosity, and increase elasticity.
Deep conditioning treatments. Also known as hair masks or conditioning packs. Chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer. They penetrate several cuticle layers; chosen when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein treatment is required.

18. Other Conditioning Agents
Spray-on thermal protectors. Applied before thermal service.
Scalp conditioners. Usually a cream base used to soften and improve scalp health.
Medicated scalp lotions. Promote healing of the scalp.
Scalp astringent lotions. Used to remove oil accumulation from scalp; used after a scalp treatment and before styling.
OTHER CONDITIONING AGENTS
Spray-on thermal protectors. Applied before thermal service.
Scalp conditioners. Usually a cream base used to soften and improve scalp health.
Medicated scalp lotions. Promote healing of the scalp.
Scalp astringent lotions. Used to remove oil accumulation from scalp; used after a scalp treatment and before styling.
ACTIVITY: Have students refer to Table 13-1 found in their textbook. Conduct a discussion among the entire class of the three hair types and textures listed and the various recommended treatments.

19. General Rules of Brushing
Brush with every shampoo except with chemical service or if scalp is irritated
BRUSHING THE HAIR: Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup; gives added shine.
BRUSHING THE HAIR: Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup; gives added shine.
GENERAL RULES: Do as part of every shampoo. The following exceptions apply:
Don’t do before chemical service.
Don’t do if scalp is irritated.
Don’t brush the scalp.
Never use comb to loosen scales from the scalp. Natural bristle brushes are recommended to clean and add luster to hair. Nylon bristles are shiny, smooth, and fine for styling. See Figure 13-8.

20. Applying Dry Shampoos Seat client comfortably at station.
Drape for chemical service.
Follow product directions. For most products, apply the powder directly onto hair from scalp to ends and brush through with a natural bristle brush.
APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS
Seat client comfortably at station.
Drape for chemical service.
Follow product directions. For most products, apply the powder directly onto hair from scalp to ends and brush through with a natural bristle brush. See Figure
SHAMPOOING FOR SPECIAL NEEDS: Consult with the clients about their special needs, ask their preferences, and keep their comfort and safety a priority.

21. Summary and Review Why is pH an important factor in shampoo selection?
ANSWER: The higher the pH rating (more alkaline), the stronger and harsher the shampoo is to the hair. A high pH can leave the hair dry and brittle. The pH of normal hair is 4.5 to 5.5.
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair. As a cosmetology professional, you will need to be able to analyze hair type and hair products to determine the best shampoo for your client. You will remember to always follow the manufacturer’s directions when using any product including shampoos. Remember to always make the most effective use of the opportunity provided when shampooing a client. It’s an opportunity for you to put clients at ease and make them feel comfortable about the service they are about to receive. Take care to be gentle when shampooing prior to a chemical service. Choose the correct shampoo for the hair type. A quality shampoo builds the foundation for successful salon services and for continued retail sales.
Let’s review:
Why is pH an important factor in shampoo selection?
ANSWER: The higher the pH rating (more alkaline), the stronger and harsher the shampoo is to the hair. A high pH can leave the hair dry and brittle. The pH of normal hair is 4.5 to 5.5.
Name four ways in which water can be purified.
ANSWER: Sedimentation (a treatment that causes matter to sink to the bottom). Filtration (passing through a porous substance such as a filter paper or charcoal) to remove suspended clay, sand, and organic material. Boiling. Distillation (the process of heating water so it becomes a vapor, then condensing the vapor so that it collects as a liquid).

22. Summary and Review Name 4 ways in which water can be purified
Sedimentation (a treatment that causes matter to sink to the bottom). Filtration (passing through a porous substance such as a filter paper or charcoal) to remove suspended clay, sand, and organic material. Boiling. Distillation (the process of heating water so it becomes a vapor, then condensing the vapor so that it collects as a liquid).

23. Summary and Review
What shampoo and/or conditioner is appropriate for use on dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged hair?
Dandruff—a medicated shampoo
Product buildup —a clarifying shampoo
What shampoo and/or conditioner is appropriate for use on dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged hair?
ANSWER: Dandruff—a medicated shampoo; product buildup—a clarifying shampoo; damaged hair—conditioning or moisturizing shampoos, protein conditioners, deep conditioning treatments.
What is the action of conditioner on the hair?
ANSWER: They deposit protein or moisturizer to help restore the hair’s strength, give it body, and protect it against possible breakage.
What is the chemical action of surfactants in shampoo?
ANSWER: A surfactant molecule has two ends, a head and a tail. The head is hydrophilic or water attracting. The tail is lipophilic or oil attracting. During the shampoo the two ends create a push-pull process that causes the oils and dirt to roll up into little balls that can be rinsed away.
Damaged hair —conditioning or moisturizing shampoos, protein conditioners, deep conditioning treatments.

24. Summary and Review
What is the action of the conditioner on the hair?
They deposit protein or moisturizer to help restore the hair’s strength, give it body, and protect it against possible breakage.

25. Summary and Review
What is the chemical action of surfactants in shampoo?
A surfactant molecule has two ends, a head and a tail. The head is hydrophilic or water attracting. The tail is lipophilic or oil attracting. During the shampoo the two ends create a push-pull process that causes the oils and dirt to roll up into little balls that can be rinsed away.

26. Summary and Review
What is the purpose of brushing the hair before shampooing?
Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup.
What is the purpose of brushing the hair before shampooing?
ANSWER: Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup.
Describe the draping procedure for a shampooing service.
ANSWER: Turn the collar to the inside, if necessary. Place a towel lengthwise across the client’s shoulders, crossing the ends beneath the chin. Place the cape over the towel and fasten in the back so that the cape does not touch the client’s skin. Place another towel over the cape and secure in the front.
What hair services should not be preceded by shampooing, brushing, or massage?
ANSWER: Chemical services.