COLOR CUSTOMIZATION The Aveda Difference

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FOUNDATION

How does Color Theory relate to Hair Color? By realizing the saturation of blue, red, yellow will determine the darkness of the color. Hair Color can be described in two ways: depth/level tone

CONSULTATION- most important part of color service GREET OBSERVE LISTEN SUGGEST CONFIRM

HAIR ANALYSIS HAIR COLOR HISTORY- determine needs LEVEL AND TONE- natural and previous color DESIRED LEVEL AND TONE- realistic desires NRP AT DESIRED LEVEL- ensure formula TEXTURE- diameter of a hair strand DENSITY- # of hairs per square inch POROSITY- ability to absorb moisture TENACITY- strength of cuticle (grey%)

BLUEPRINT-planning guide used prior to Color Service. Analysis History of Previous hair color Desired Result Pre work Formula Application Processing Time BLUEPRINT-planning guide used prior to Color Service. Helps you reach a clear agreement on desired service and result . Provides Hair Analysis which ensures proper Formulation.

AVEDA Consultation Analyze Hair Condition Hair Color History Realistic Desired Result Establish Service Price Maintenance/Time Schedule Home Maintenance

6 Steps to Implement Perfect Color Service Consultation Formulation Mixing Application Processing Removal 11

ORGANIC LAVENDER creates pleasant processing experience 12

Green Tea Extract- used to aid in color development process

Most hair color formulations are created with synthetic couplers Most hair color formulations are created with synthetic couplers. Aveda Hair Color formulas combine traditional couplers with the natural activity of specific components (polyphenols) in green tea extract to create a broad range of colors In addition to acting as couplers, the polyphenols in green tea extract are known to be powerful anti-oxidants, which help prevent damage due to environmental stress Aveda uses nourishing plant oils sunflower, castor, an jojoba, coconut, babassu to create a gentler hair coloring process which results in incredible shine and helps to retain and improve its condition

Sunflower

Castor

Jojoba

Babasu Oils 18

Coconut Oils 19

Red Tea Rooibos 20

Candelilia Wax 21

Soy Protein 22

Corn 23

Tone- characteristic of color measuring warmth and coolness

Tone characteristic of color measuring warmth and coolness PURE TONES provides a complete range of tonal families to create Color Customization *NATURAL/NATURAL delivers maximum grey coverage **INTENSE BASE add with natural + pure tones/pigment to achieve vibrant pure tonal intensity not recommended on grey hair Light Pure Tones *NN VB BB YO **OR Dark Pure Tones *NN BV BG YO **RO **VR/ RV (DOCT) **R PURE PIGMENT *Warm tones reflect more light and may appear slightly lighter. *Cool tones absorb the light and may make the lift appear slightly darker.

PURE PIGMENTS BLUE RED YELLOW GREEN VIOLET ORANGE Text *add standard grams to enhance tone *add double when replacing pure tone recommended on levels 6 and below *use to create true Fashion colors recommended for prelightened to pale yellow 26

LEVEL categorizes color from darkness to lightness 27

LEVEL measurement of lightness and darkness Natural Series 1n-10n formulated for balanced neutral (without excess warmth or coolness) Natural Remaining Pigment When permanent hair color is used, it is important to identify the N.R.P. at each of the 10 levels. N.R.P is the tonal value that that hair contributes as it lightens. 10 Lightest Blonde 9 Very Light Blonde 8 Light Blonde 7 Medium Blonde 6 Dark Blonde 5 Lightest Brown 4 Light Brown 3 Medium Brown 2 Dark Brown 1 Black Pale Yellow Yellow Yellow/Orange Orange Red/Orange Red

DEPOSIT ONLY Pure Bases Light Pure Base—A light copper base that is never used alone, it is designed to be mixed with the light O/R Pure Tone Dark Pure Base—A red base that is never used alone, it is designed to be mixed with the Dark Red Pure Tones : Dark R/O, Dark R/V, Dark R/R *The Pure Bases create intense, vibrant Copper and Red tones **Not recommended for use on Grey Hair 29

Aveda Color Catalyst Crème Developer Active Ingredient is Hydrogen Peroxide Features cationic conditioners that buffer the damage Essential oils in Color Catalyst crème developer combine with the hair color’s chemistry to deliver balanced lasting tonal purity Emulates the chemistry of the sun in lightening the hair A conditioning crème developer features a fresh flower and plant Pure-Fume aroma Formulated for use with Aveda Full Spectrum hair color, Aveda Shades of Enlightenment and Aveda Enlightener Available in 5, 10, 20, 30, & 40 volume 30

Aveda Color Treatment Activator Fomulated for use with Aveda Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Cream Developer Liquid Developer features a fresh flower and plant Pure-Fume aroma DEPOSIT ONLY NOT TO BE INTERMIXED WITH FULL SPECTRUM PERMANENT 31

Enlightenment Enlightener Permanent Deposit Only Ammonia-free AVEDA FULL SPECTRUMcreated for customization and condition *UNIVERSAL 0n AVAILABLE Enlightenment 96% Plant Derived 30 or 40 volume Color Catalyst PROCESS 30 volume = 30 min 40 volume = 45 min Enlightener 5,10,20,30,40 volume use enlightener crème booster for on scalp applications Permanent 96% Plant Derived 5,10, 20, 30, 40 volume Color Catalyst PROCESS 20,30,40,45 MIN *Natural/Natural available for Maximum coverage FOR GREY WITH NO N/N PROCESS 45 MIN Deposit Only Ammonia-free 99% Plant Derived Cream or Liquid Color Treatment Activator PROCESS 10-20 MIN *blends up to 50% grey COLOR VISCOSITY- use 4-9 Drops

Recommended Grams of Pure Tones for a 40 Gram Color + 40 ML Color Catalyst Bright Formula is 50% N series + 50% Pure Base LEVEL Natural Series DESCRIPTOR STANDARD (50% Less) (50% More) PURE BASE INTENSE 10N Lightest Blonde 2 1 3 LIGHT 4 9N Very Light Blonde 6 8 8N Light Blonde 9 12 7N Medium Blonde 16 6N Dark Blonde DARK 5N Lightest Brown 4N Light Brown 3N Medium Brown 2N Dark Brown _ 1N Black

APPLICATION

APPLICATION apply Barrier Cream (Anti- Humectant) to hairline, this is used to protect guests skin from absorbing hair color Aveda Retouch apply to New Growth- the growth of hair after a color service. Hair Color Balancing Refresh- color has lost tone and up to one-level. After hair color is completed processing wet hair with hot water Emulsify color through hair for 2-5 minutes. Shampoo. *It is recommended that you retouch and refresh every 4-6 weeks Retouch Reestablish- color has lost tone and1-2 levels. Apply hair color to mid-lengths and ends after retouch. Can remix desired shade with 10 volume or deposit-only formula.

Alternative Virgin Application Instead of traditional virgin application, a higher volume of developer(10 volume higher) is applied to mid-length and ends. This ensure even lifting of both the scalp area and the mid-lengths, and can be applied at the same time. *Always perform Strand Test to ensure desired end result. This enables us to monitor color development and avoid potential problems.(also to see how non aveda color might react with Aveda)

AVEDA ENLIGHTENER Off-the-scalp 1oz Enlightener 2oz Color Catalyst LIGHTENER- Chemical compound which lightens hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Product used to decolorize- commonly referred to as bleach Off-the-scalp 1oz Enlightener 2oz Color Catalyst On-the-scalp 1oz Enlightener 1oz Crème Booster 2oz 20 volume 1oz=30 grams *It is not recommended to put enlightener under the dryer because it evaporates the protective essential oils in the product, it may swell and can cause irritation to the scalp area, and it may dry out the product and stop the processing. **Recommended processing time up to 60 min **Creme booster accelerates decolorization by up to 15 min

Aveda Shades of Enlightenment Blonding System EXTRA LIFT BLONDE SERIES Mix: 40g Extra Lifting Cream 80ml Color Catalyst Text *Do not add Enlightener Creme Booster to increase lifting add PASTEL PURE TONE B,V,YO **add 4 g for standard formula soft 2g strong 6-8g 4 LEVELS= 30 VOL 30 MIN 5 LEVELS= 40 VOL 45 MIN

Remove Tone=hot water/ 5vol Hair Color Cleansing Removal of artificial color from guests hair, removes tone, and hair color buildup Formula: 1oz enlightener 1oz Shampure 1oz Color Catalyst/ hot water Remove Tone=hot water/ 5vol 1 level lift=10 volume 2 level lift= 20 volume 3 or more= 30 volume **If Lightening has not occurred in 10 minutes, remix the next strongest formula, and apply. *Enlightener will work effectively up to one hour ***Thoroughly shampoo hair prior to recoloring *Use 20 volume to Recolor after a cleansing formula has been processed

TPre Coloration A process that replaces the lost N.R.P to lightened hair prior to applying darker hair color shade- once referred to as filler. Necessary when guest is going 3 or more levels darker. Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Hair Color recommended ***Refer to Precoloration Formulas *Use 20 volume to Recolor after a precoloration formula has been processed 40

Glossing Color Formulas TONER Refers to the color formula applied after lightening. Used in a double process blonde service or anytime you need to modify hair color with an additional color. *TOWEL DRY THOROUGHLY/ APPLY EQUALIZING SOLUTION Glossing Color Formulas Shine = 40g 0N + 40g Liquid Sparkle= 40g 0N + 2-8g Puretone + 40g Liquid Sheer Glaze= 20g 0N + 20g Puretone + 40g liquid Glaze= 20g 0n + 20g N + 2-8g Puretone + 40g liquid UNIVERSAL 0N USED TO ADD SHINE/GLOSS, REFRESH OR BALANCE COLOR, INCREASE TRANSLUCENCY, ADD OR DECREASE TONE, DECREASE LIFTING POWER, CREATE FASHION COLORS

Six Basic Section Foiling Technique

Color Placement Terminology PANELS: Sections that the hair is parted into on the head PARTINGS:Sub-Sections that are taken from panels and are then woven or sliced to create highlights DENSITY:Number of foils that are in each panel EFFECT: Number of weaves or slices in each parting

Color Placement Terminology LIGHT DENSITY 30% or less of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil Partings are ½” apart. Section of hair left uncolored between each foil would be appx. ½” to 1” MEDIUM DENSITY 50% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil. Partings are ¼” to ½” apart HEAVY DENSITY 70% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil Partings are 1/8” to ¼” apart

Color Placement Terminology EFFECT- Weaving Effects: Fine Effect—is achieved with 10-12 weaves per parting Medium Effect– is achieved with 6-8 weaves per parting Strong Effect—is achieved with 2-3 weaves per parting Always Bricklay pattern Page 77

Color Placement Terminology Slicing Effect A fine effect in slicing is achieved by parting off a fine slice of hair to be colored within the foil. Placement of the next slice is determined by the density desired A medium effect is achieved by taking 2 slices in a row, placing each slice to be colored in a foil back to back, before leaving hair out between the foils to be left uncolored A strong effect is achieved by taking 3 slices in a row, placing each slice in foil back to back leaving hair out between the next set of foils

Color Blending/ Techniques Under color In between On Color Pull Through Singles Tipping Color Melting

COLOR MAGIC Choose Desired Level/Tone Write down NRP Write down Pure Tone Breakdown Secondary colors to primary In dominance Blue, Red, Yellow will neutralize each other Tone remaining will be the contributing tone of formula