1. Classifications of Haircolor
Four basic categories of haircolor, chemical effect on the hair, and examples of use

2. Objective :
You will be learn how each category of haircoloring has a unique chemical composition, which, in turn, affects the final color result and how long it will last, due to hair porosity

3. Four categories
Temporary
Semi-permanent
Demi-permanent
Permanent

4. Hair Highlighting
Often referred to as “ bleaching” or “ decolorizing “
Diffuses natural or artificial color pigment from hair
Contains developer
an oxidizing agent
Also contains an alkalizing ingredient
Opens cuticle so tint can penetrate
Oxidation reaction
Lightening action

5. Temporary color Deposit only No lasting effect on color of the hair
Physical change only
No patch test required
Coats the hair shaft
Pigment molecules are large and do not penetrate the cuticle layer

6. Temporary color Advantages Chief advantage
does not alter the structure of the hair
doesn’t if affect the client’s own natural color
Gives temporary color for clients who do not want permanent color
Quick and easy to apply, washes out easily,
Enhance & add brighter tones to dull, mousey hair
Blends in a certain amount of gray with natural shades
Neutralizes any unwanted tones in the hair
Correct faded color until the client arranges for a more permanent solution

7. Temporary color Disadvantages Must be reapplied after every shampoo
Color results may be uneven, especially if enough rinse is not applied
Color will run w/moisture or perspiration, rub off on pillow and clothing
Flake off when the hair is brushed or combed
Damaged hair will cause temporary color to penetrate the cuticle and uneven color will be evident
Deposit only, they cannot lift or lighten color
Often hair is dull and lacks sheen

8. Types of Temporary color
Color rinses
Last from shampoo to shampoo
Certified colors ( FDA approved )
Coat the hair shaft
Color-enhancing shampoo
Consist of shampoo & mixed w/ color pigment
Blend color tones
Brighten
Impart slight color
Neutralize unwanted shades

9. Types of Temporary color
Color mousses and gels
Slight color or dramatic effects
Styling aids
Crayons, sprays & mascara
Crayons
Retouch new growth
Lipstick
Sprays
Usually bright, party colors,applied directly to dry hair
Mascara
Facial makeup
Theater

11. Semi-permanent Color
They partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer because pigment molecules are smaller
Formulated to last 6 – 8 shampoos, depending on porosity of hair
Gentle, self-penetrating, washes gradually
No line of demarcation
Chemical & physical change
Patch test ?
No peroxide is used

12. Semi-permanent color Advantages Structure of the hair is not affected
Little or no damage
Blending gray hair
Introduce client to more permanent methods of hair coloring enhance natural hair color by adding tone & depth
Formulated as toners for pre-lightened hair
Safer to use on clients who are sensitive or allergic to paraphenylenediamine
Color molecule made from coal tar
Clients during pregnancy

13. Semi-permanent color Disadvantages
Limited shades of the older formulas
Color is not long lasting, needs repeated applications depending on frequency of shampoos
Porosity of hair will effect how soon it fades, and off-shades after several shampoos
Rarely provides sufficient coverage on gray hair
Cannot lift hair
Enhances original color or darkens only

19. Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This product adds color without changing natural color dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before treatment. This level generally lasts for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50 percent gray, enhances your natural color and leaves no roots. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair color because it contains no ammonia or peroxide.

20. Demi-permanent color
Also called deposit-only color and is referred to as semi-permanent by some manufacturers
Last longer than semi-permanent
Deposits color; no lift
Smaller pigment molecules that penetrate the hair shaft
Patch test required due to low-ammonia

22. Demi-permanent color Less aggressive, less damaging Vivid colors
Used in conjunction with permanent color to help fight the buildup effect
mid-hair shaft to ends while permanent color is applied to new growth only

23. Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This product level lasts longer, through 24 to 26 shampoos. In this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex where they then partner to create medium-sized color molecules. Their larger size means they take longer to wash out. These products do not contain ammonia so the natural pigment can't be lightened. However, it contains a small amount of peroxide, which allows for a subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement. It also blends and covers gray. (Both semi- and demi-permanent colors can become permanent on permed or already-colored hair!)

24. Permanent color
Permanent haircolor is mixed with a oxidizing agent called hydrogen peroxide ( developer )
Also called
oxidation tints
penetrating tints
aniline derivatives tints
Permanent color
Metallic dyes & vegetable dyes
Limited in today’s market
Contains aniline derivatives
Uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that diffuse into the hair shaft

25. Permanent color
Both the hair’s natural color and the applied color undergo a chemical change
Molecules are trapped within the cortex and cannot be shampooed out
Almost any shade can be achieved
Designed to remain in the hair until it grows out
A line of demarcation will be evident as the hair grows out
Requires a patch test
Chemical & physical change

26. Permanent color Advantages
Simultaneously remove natural pigment while adding artificial color in one application
resulting in a natural-looking color
Used to match, lighten, and cover gray hair
Hair is not coated so your client can receive other chemical services
Penetrates to the cortex layer of the hair

27. Permanent color Disadvantages
Patch test must be given prior to every application
Due to chemical change the hair must reconditioned and carefully maintained
Natural pigment is altered
To remove the effects of a tint
A tint remover
Re-tint to camouflage
Cut the hair to remove it
Color can fade with time & shampooing, to off-color or harsh tones

31. Level 3, permanent color -- This is what you need for a more significant color change (to go from black to blond, you'll still need to go with a process called double process blonding and it'd be wise to get this it done professionally). In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a size that cannot be washed out. Your hair actually has to grow out over time. This product acts to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then to add a new permanent color. The end result is a combination of your natural hair pigment and the new shade you chose. That means the color may appear different on you than on someone else using the same color. (That's why the "strand test" is so important -- more about that later.) Regular touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color growing at half an inch per month from your scalp.

32. Worksheet Review Classifications of haircolor A.
How long does it last?
Chemical action on the hair
Advantages
Disadvantages

33. Worksheet B. How long does it last? Chemical action Advantages
Disadvantages

34. Worksheet C. How long does it last? Chemical action Advantages
Disadvantages

35. Worksheet
D. Ability of the hair to absorb moisture E. F. G.

36. Worksheet H. How long does it last? Chemical action Advantages
Disadvantages

37. Worksheet
I. Over lapping layers of the cuticle scales are also called…..
J. What action takes place when the color and peroxide are combined….

38. Summary
We have discussed how haircolor is generally classified by its ability to last. Temporary color is just that; it is removed by shampooing. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent color lasts somewhat longer than temporary haircolor and bridges the gap to permanent color.
Next lesson: Level System