Facial Makeup Copyright 2013 © SAP

OBJECTIVES To emphasize the client’s most attractive features To minimize the features that are less attractive To make an accurate analysis of client’s face shape and her individual needs To consider face structure and color of eyes, skin, and hair

FOUNDATIONS Even skin tone Conceal minor imperfections Protect skin from climate and dirt Come in cream form liquid form powder form Cream-to-powder form

USING FOUNDATION Skin tone determines the selection of foundation color. Warm tones are generally yellow, orange, or red-orange. Cool tones are generally blue, blue-green (olive), or blue-red (pink). Neutral skin has equal amounts of warm and cool tones. Match foundation as closely as possible to natural skin tone. Color should disappear on the skin.

CONCEALERS Use concealers to cover blemishes and discolorations. They are available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks. Remove concealers from container with a spatula and apply with a concealer brush or sponge. Match color to skin as closely as possible.

FACE POWDERS Add a matte or dull finish Conceal blemishes and discolorations Tone down excessive color and shine Come in variety of tints, weights Light to medium weight good for dry to normal skin Heavy weight good for oily skin

CHEEK COLOR Also called blush or rouge Creates more attractive facial contour Comes in liquid format cream or gel format dry (pressed) format loose powder format

RULES FOR APPLICATION OF CHEEK COLOR Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear on cheeks. Keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of the nose. Do not extend color above the outer corner of the eye. Do not apply color in a bright, round circle. Blend color so that it fades softly into the foundation.

LIP COLOR Also called lipstick or gloss Comes in variety of colors with optional sunscreen and moisturizers Lip liner used to outline the lips. coordinate liner with lip color. sharpen liners with every use.

EYE SHADOW Applied on eyelids Comes in variety of colors and finishes Forms Stick Cream Pressed Dry powder

USING EYE SHADOW It makes the eyes appear bright and expressive. Darker color makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter; just the opposite with lighter shadow. Color should enhance the client’s eyes. Highlight color is lighter than skin tone. Use on a specific area such as the brow bone. Base color is usually a medium tone. Use to even skin tone around eyes. Apply all over the lid before other colors. Contour color is a darker tone. Apply to minimize a certain area, to create contour, or to define the eyelash line.

EYELINER Outlines the eye Available in pencil, liquid, pressed, or felt tip pen form Makes the eyes appear larger and lashes fuller Application Be cautious when applying. Use steady hand. Sharpen the liner and sanitize sharpener before each use.

CAUTION According to the American Medical Association, eye pencils should not be used to color the inner rim of the eyes. The danger is infection of the tear duct causing tearing, blurring of vision, and permanent pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the inside of the eye.

EYEBROW COLOR Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows. They can darken the eyebrow, fill in sparse areas, or correct misshapen brows.

MASCARA Used to darken, define, and thicken eyelashes Makes lashes appear thicker and longer Application Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows. Dispose of wand. Never double-dip.

MAKEUP BRUSHES Come in a variety of shapes and sizes Are made of synthetic or animal hair Have wooden or metal handles Clean up with commercial sanitizer or mild shampoo for cleaning

MAKEUP COLOR THEORY PRIMARY COLORS Red Yellow Blue

SECONDARY COLORS Mix equal parts of two primary colors to obtain: Orange (yellow + red) Violet (red + blue) Green (yellow + blue)

TERTIARY COLORS Mix equal parts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color: Yellow-Orange Yellow-Green Blue-Green Blue-Violet Red-Violet Red-Orange

COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Primary and secondary colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel are complementary. When mixed, they cancel each other out to create a neutral brown or gray color.

WARM AND COOL COLORS Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and some yellow-greens. Cool colors are dominated by the blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds.

SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR Consider skin, eye, and hair color. Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark. Light skin color—Use light colors for a natural look and dark colors for a dramatic look. Medium skin color—Medium tones will create more of a understated look. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast and appear bolder. Dark skin color—Dark colors will be subtle; medium or light will be striking and vivid.

COLOR FOR EYES Neutrals are always the safest choice Complementary colors are determined thus: Blue eyes—Orange: Choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel. Green eyes—Red: Choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, and violet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples. Brown eyes—neutral and can wear any contrasting colors such as greens, blues, grays, and silvers.

HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR CHEEK AND LIP COLOR Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup. HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.

COLOR SELETION STEPS Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral. Determine complementary colors. Determine hair color: warm or cool. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral. Apply makeup.

CLIENT CONSULTATION Keep the area clean. Keep a portfolio of your work. Ensure good lighting for everything. Gather information and record on consultation card. Skin condition Makeup worn daily Special occasion makeup Time spent on makeup Color likes and dislikes

SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP Choose striking contour eyes. Choose dramatic smoky eyes. Add darker, lighter, or shimmery color to the cheeks. Apply liner color to the lips; fill in with pencil and blot. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.

CORRECTIVE MAKEUP Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with correct shadowing or shading, and balanced with the proper hairstyle. A basic rule is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, whereas shadowing minimizes it.

ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE The basic rule of makeup application is to emphasize the client’s attractive features while minimizing features that are less appealing. The goal is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard.

OVAL-SHAPED FACE Artistically ideal proportions and features

ROUND FACE Broader in proportion to its length Rounded chin and hairline Corrective makeup to slenderize and lengthen the face

SQUARE-SHAPED FACE Composed of straight lines with a wide forehead and square jawline Corrective makeup to offset the squareness and soften the hard lines around the face

TRIANGULAR (PEAR-SHAPED) FACE Jaw wider than the forehead Corrective makeup to create width at the forehead, slenderize the jawline, and add length to the face.

INVERTED TRIANGLE (HEART-SHAPE) FACE A wide forehead and narrow, pointed chin Corrective makeup to minimize the width of the forehead and increase the width of the jawline

DIAMOND-SHAPED FACE Narrow forehead with the greatest width across the cheekbones Corrective makeup to reduce the width across the cheekbone line

OBLONG FACE Greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face Long and narrow Corrective makeup to create the illusion of width across the cheekbone line, making the face appear shorter

FOREHEAD AREA Low forehead—Applying a lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between the brows and hairline. Protruding forehead—Applying a darker foundation over the prominent area gives an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face and minimizes the bulging forehead.

NOSE AND CHIN AREAS Large or protruding nose—Apply a darker foundation on the nose and a lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the nose. Avoid placing cheek color close to the nose. Protruding chin and receding chin—Highlight the chin by using a lighter foundation than the one used on the face.

SHORT AND FLAT NOSE Apply a lighter foundation down the center of the nose, ending at the tip. If the nostrils are wide, apply a darker foundation to both sides of the nostrils.

BROAD NOSE Use darker foundation on the sides of the nose and nostrils.

CHIN AREA For a sagging double chin, use a darker foundation on the sagging portion and use a natural skin tone foundation on the face.

JAWLINE AND NECK AREA Blend the foundation onto the neck so that the client’s color is consistent from face to neck; set with translucent powder.

CORRECTIVE MAKEUP FOR THE EYES Round eyes—Extend the shadow beyond outer corner of the eye. Close-set eyes—Lightly apply shadow up from the outer edge of the eye. Bulging eyes—Blend shadow over the prominent part of the upper lid toward the eyebrow. Heavy-lidded eyes—Shadow evenly across lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket.

EYEBROWS The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. The ideal shape can be drawn in three lines.

THE LIPS Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils. Lips can be very full, very thin, or uneven. Large, full lips

ARTIFICIAL EYELASHES Band lashes—also called strip lashes, are eyelashes on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line. Eyelash adhesive is a product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick, to the natural lash line. To remove, use commercial preparation, or soften lash base by applying a face cloth with warm water and a facial cleanser.

INDIVIDUAL LASHES Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time Synthetic and attach directly to a client’s own lashes at their base Also called eye tabbing Last about six to eight weeks

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wash your hands before and after every application. Properly drape client. Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair. Keep your fingernails smooth. Use only sanitized brushes and implements. Use a shaker-type container for loose powder.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Pour all lotions from bottle containers. Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars. Never apply lip color directly from container to the client’s lips. Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid infection. Discard all disposable items. Keep workstation sanitary, neat, and well organized.

SUMMARY We have identified basic facial types. The oval-shaped face is artistically the ideal proportion. Shadowing and highlighting create illusions. Corrective makeup can be used for unflattering features. Effective makeup application will make you very valuable to your clients.