1. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chapter 24 Facial Makeup

2. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. WHY STUDY FACIAL MAKEUP?  Clients will rely on your to advise them on tips and techniques that will help them look their best.  You will want to use basic makeup techniques that enhance and provide your clients a service by offering them a total look.

3. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.  To understand the various categories of facial makeup products available so that you know when and on whom they should be used.  By understanding highlighting and contouring you will help bring out your clients best features and conceal others. You will help change and accent the appearance of your clients face shape.

4. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. A little background … Today’s aging society is doing anything possible to feel and look younger. Fortunately, the application of cosmetics can do a great deal to emphasize the most attractive facial features and to minimize those features that are not so attractive or that are out of balance. Applying color to the face is not a new trend. Recorded history shows that both the men and the women of the New Stone Age used tattooing and face and body paint for ornamentation.

5. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

6. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Makeup has been used to indicate status in society, for tribal identification, for important religious ceremonies, for preparation for war, and for any number of other events. You may remember how dramatic Elizabeth Taylor’s makeup was when she played Cleopatra, making those Egyptian eyes famous. Makeup in the days of the Egyptians was usually a combination of ground alabaster or starch mixed with vegetable dyes and mineral salts.

7. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Cosmetics really became an industry of its own in the 1930s, with Elizabeth Arden and Max Factor introducing lines and opening salons devoted to beauty. As the demand increased, cosmetics were soon available for those of all economic levels. As a professional cosmetologist, you will consider the structure of the client’s face; the color of the eyes, skin, and hair; how the client wants to look; and the reasonable results you can achieve. You will truly become an artist when you can apply color, shading, and highlighting to create illusions that are most flattering to a client’s appearance.

8. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Your license as a cosmetologist will give you an advantage because you will be able not only to provide the client with effective skin care services and cosmetic application, but also to provide the appropriate color and hair design to create the best possible image for your client. Never forget: A client who projects a total, together look will be your best advertisement!

9. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Enhancing Natural Beauty The makeup objective is to emphasize the most attractive features while minimizing those that are less attractive. The makeup objective will vary from client to client, based on face-shape analysis and client’s individual needs. Consider face structure, eye color, skin and hair, client’s wants, and the results you can realistically achieve.

10. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Cosmetics

11. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Foundation A tinted cosmetic also known as base makeup that is used to cover or even out skin coloring; conceal minor imperfections of skin; and protect the skin from climate, dirt, and debris Available in liquid, stick, and cream forms Color primer: applied to skin prior to foundation to disguise skin discoloration

12. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Liquid Powder Cream Stick

13. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Air brush foundation

14. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Foundation Chemistry Most liquid and cream forms of foundation are mixtures of water and oil-spreading agents containing a significant amount of talc and different color agents as pigments. Liquid: water-based foundations with emollients Oil-free: intended for oilier skin types Cream: oil-based and thicker than liquid

15. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Liquid: Also called water-based foundation; made up of mostly water and emollients such as mineral oil or a silicone such as cyclomethicone. Some may contain alcohol or drying agents. The mixture of water and oil help you apply the makeup color agents evenly. Oil-free: Intended for oilier skin types. Cream: Known as oil-based foundation; thicker than liquid. They provide heavier coverage. Usually intended for dry skin types; not recommended for oily or acned skin.

16. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Foundation Selection and Use Match to skin tone. Blend with disposable makeup sponge, fingers or brush. Avoid lines of demarcation.

17. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.  Match foundation as closely as possible to actual skin tone. If too light, it will have a chalky or gray appearance. If too dark, it will look dirty or muddy.  Determine correct foundation color by applying a stripe of color to clean skin on the jawline. Blend slightly. Color that disappears on the skin is the correct tone.

18. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Concealer Use to cover blemishes and discolorations. Available in tins, jars or tubes with wands. Also available in different colors, purple, green, yellow and skin tone To apply: Remove from container with clean spatula and apply with sponge or disposable cotton swab. Fingers are warm and can help blend when stippling Match color to skin as closely as possible. Use sparingly and soften edges.

19. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Face Powder Fine cosmetic powder, used to add a matte or dull finish to the face. Helps absorb excess oil, minimize oily shine, and set the foundation. Comes in loose and pressed; both are a mixture of talc or cornstarch with color pigments added. CHEMISTRY: Loose powder and pressed powder have the same basic composition. Pressed powders are compressed and held together with binders. Loose powders don’t contain much color and are called translucent. Pressing agents or binders like zinc stearate are added to press the foundation and help its adherence to the skin.

20. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. APPLICATION: Applied with large powder brush. Remove some and place in a disposable cup or tissue. Dip brush in powder and fluff it across the face. Cover all areas of face; remove any excess powder. Avoid a caked, streaked, or blotchy application.

21. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Cheek Color Cream is used after foundation and before face powder; powder is used after foundation and face powder have been applied. Application should look soft and natural. Too little is better than too much. Never apply in a circle on the cheek, beyond the corner of the eye, or inward between the cheekbone and nose. Also called blush or rouge; comes in powder, gel, and cream.

22. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Lip Color Also called lipstick or gloss. A cosmetic in paste form, available in a variety of colors. Used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips. Some contain sunscreen; others contain moisturizers.

23. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chemistry: Available in a variety of forms: creams, glosses, pencils, gels, and sticks. All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes. Using lip color: Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip shape. Do not apply directly from the container, unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container and take the color from the spatula with a disposable lip brush.

24. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Lip Liner Used to outline the lips; also helps keep lip color from feathering. Coordinate lip liner with chosen lip color. Sharpen the lip liner and sanitize the sharpener before every use. Keep cover on to prevent drying out.

25. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Eye Shadow Applied on the eyelids to accentuate or contour them. Available in almost every color and in a variety of finishes, including metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy. FrostedMatte Forms: Stick, cream, pressed, and dry powder.

26. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Eye shadow makes the eyes appear brighter and more expressive. A darker shade of eye shadow makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter, while a lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper. Makeup colors should enhance the client’s eyes. Light shadow/Dark eyesDark shadow/Lighter eyes

27. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Highlight color: Lighter than the client’s skin tone and may have any finish. Highlight a specific area, such as the brow bone. Lighter color will make an area appear larger. Base color: A medium tone that is close to the client’s skin tone. Used to even skin tone on the eye. Applied all over the lid and brow bone before other colors are applied. Contour color: Deeper and darker than the client’s skin tone. Applied to minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or to define the eyelash line.

28. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Eyeliner Used to outline and emphasize the eye. Chemistry: Consists of a wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) with a variety of additives to create color. Available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), or felt-tip pen. Make the eyes appear larger and lashes fuller.

29. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Using eyeliner 1.Be cautious when applying; have a steady hand. 2.Sharpen the eyeliner, wipe with clean tissue, and sanitize the sharpener before each use. 3.Apply with short strokes and gentle pressure close to lash line. Brush may be wet to use with powder liner. CAUTION: According to the American Medical Association, eye pencils should not be used to color the inner rim of the eyes; this can lead to infection of the tear duct, causing tearing, blurring of vision, and permanent pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the inside of the eye.

30. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

31. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Eyebrow Color Eyebrow pencils or shadows used to add color and shape to the eyebrows. Can darken the eyebrows, fill in sparse areas, or correct misshapen brows. Chemistry: Chemistry is similar to that of eyeliner pencils and ingredients are similar to those in eye shadows.

32. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Using eyebrow color: After sanitizing the sharpener, sharpen the pencil and wipe clean with tissue. Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color.

33. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

34. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Mascara Used to darken, define, and thicken the eyelashes. Available in liquid, cake, and cream form.  Enhances the natural lashes, making them appear thicker and longer. Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows. Chemistry: Polymer products that include water, wax, thickeners, film formers, and preservatives in their formulation. Pigments: Carbon black, carmine, ultramarine, chromium oxide, and iron oxides. Some contain rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken the hair fibers.

35. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Mascara Application May be used on all lashes from the inner to outer corners. Dispose of the wand. Never double dip.

36. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Other Cosmetics Eye makeup removers Greasepaint Cake (pancake) makeup Oil based or water-based. Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes. A shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge. Gives good coverage; also used to cover scars and pigmentation defects.

37. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Makeup Brushes and Tools Powder brush Blush brush Concealer brush Lip brush Eye shadow brush Eyeliner brush Angle brush Lash and brow brush Tweezers Eyelash curler Headband or clips Plastic spoon

38. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Disposable Implements Sponges Powder or cotton puffs Mascara wands Spatulas Cotton swabs Disposable lip brushes Sponge-tipped shadow applicators Cotton pads or towel Pencil sharpeners

39. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Caring for Makeup Brushes Avoid spray-on sanitizers containing a high level of alcohol; they will dry brushes. Use a gentle shampoo or brush solvent. Place brush under water with ferrule pointing downward.

40. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Complementary colors Primary and secondary colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel. Color Theory for Selecting Color Makeup )

41. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Warm and Cool Colors Warm: range from yellow and gold through oranges, red- oranges, most reds, and some yellow-greens Color Theory for Selecting Color Makeup Cool: dominated by blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds

42. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Determining Skin Color

43. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Selecting Makeup Colors Consider skin color, eye color, and hair color. Light skin color: Use light colors for a soft, natural look. Medium to dark colors will create a more dramatic look. Medium skin color: Medium tones will create an understated look. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast and appear bolder. Dark skin color: Dark tones will be most subtle. Medium to light tones will be striking and vivid.

44. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Complementary Colors for Eyes Blue eyes –Orange, gold, peach, copper, mauve, plum, taupe, camel Green eyes –Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet, coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, purples Brown eyes –Can wear any color: greens, blues, grays, silvers Neutral colors are always the safest choice Contrasting eye color with complementary colors will emphasize the eye color most effectively.

45. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Hair and eye color Coordination of hair and eye color with eye makeup Cheek and lip color Coordinate in same color family as eye makeup

46. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

47. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Color Selection Steps 1. Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark. 2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral. 3. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, and so on. 4. Determine complementary colors. 5. Determine hair color: warm or cool. 6. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors. 7. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral. 8. Apply makeup.

48. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Client Consultation Your role is to listen and then make recommendations. CONSULTATION AREA: Should be clean and tidy. Keep a portfolio that includes photographs of your work or pictures from magazines. LIGHTING: Essential for both the consultation and application of the makeup. Face should be evenly lit without dark shadows. Natural light is best. If necessary to use artificial light, it should be a combination of incandescent and fluorescent light.

49. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. CLIENT CONSULTATION INFORMATION GATHERING: Information should include skin condition, how much or how little makeup the client wears, daily vs. special-occasion makeup, amount of time spent applying makeup, color likes and dislikes, and any trouble areas. Record on client consultation card. RETAIL SALES: Review and restate your written advice with the client at the end of the service to help sell retail products. This will also help your client duplicate what she had done during her service.

50. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP FOR EYES Striking Contour Eyes Base color from lashes to brow Medium tone on lid Medium to deep color in crease and blend Highlight shadow under brow bone Eyeliner from outside corner tapering in, blend with small brush Shadow over eyeliner (same color as liner, this will give intensity to the eyeliner ) Application of mascara

51. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Dramatic Smoky Eyes Encircle with gray, brown, or black liner. Smudge eyeliner. Dark shadow from upper lash to crease, softening and blending as you approach the crease Repeat on lower lash line, blending harsh lines as you go Highlight color to upper brow area. Apply mascara. Add individual or band lashes.

52. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Tip for applying mascara and shadows

53. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Special Occasion — Cheeks Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition. Apply with a blush brush or applicator and blend carefully. Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of the cheeks and blend. Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones for highlight. You may use cream or powder colors.

54. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Special Occasion — Lips Most clients prefer brighter or darker colors for special occasions. Shimmer or Matte, Frosted or Glossy 1. Apply liner color to the lips. Fill in the lip line with pencil and blot. 2. Add similar color in lipstick over the entire mouth with a lip brush or applicator. 3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.

55. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup Emphasizes good features Minimizes imperfections Highlighting used to emphasize Shadowing used to minimize features Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting and subdued with correct shadowing or shading and balanced with the proper hairstyle.  A basic rule is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, while shadowing minimizes it.

56. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Analyzing Face Shapes Artistically ideal proportions and features. The face is divided into three equal horizontal sections. The first third is measured from the hairline to the top of the eyebrows. The second third is measured from the top of the eyebrows to the end of the nose. The last third is measured from the end of the nose to the bottom of the chin.

57. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. The ideal oval face is approximately three-fourths as wide as it is long. The distance between the eyes is the width of one eye. Oval Face

58. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Round Face Usually broader in proportion to its length. Rounding chin and hairline. Apply corrective makeup to slenderize and lengthen the face.

59. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Square Face Composed of straight lines, with a wide forehead and square jaw line. Apply corrective makeup to offset the squareness and soften the hard lines of the face.

60. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Triangular (Pear-Shaped) Face Characterized by a jaw that is wider than the forehead. Apply corrective makeup to create width at the forehead, slenderize the jaw line, and add length to the face.

61. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Inverted Triangle Face Has a wide forehead and narrow, pointed chin. Apply corrective makeup to minimize the width of the forehead and to increase the width of the jaw line.

62. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Diamond Face Has a narrow forehead, with the greatest width across the cheekbones. Apply corrective makeup to reduce the width across the cheekbone line.

63. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Oblong Face Has greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face. Long and narrow. Apply corrective makeup to create the illusion of width across the cheekbone line, making the face appear shorter.

64. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Forehead Area LOW FOREHEAD: Applying a lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between the brows and hairline. PROTRUDING FOREHEAD: Applying a darker foundation over the prominent area gives an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face and minimizes the bulging forehead.

65. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Nose and Chin Areas LARGE OR PROTRUDING NOSE: Apply a darker foundation on the nose and a lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the nose. Avoid placing cheek color close to the nose. SHORT AND FLAT NOSE: Apply a lighter foundation down the center of the nose, ending at the tip. BROAD NOSE: Use a darker foundation on the sides of the nose and nostrils.

66. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. PROTRUDING CHIN AND RECEDING NOSE Shadow the chin with a darker foundation and highlight the nose with a lighter foundation. RECEDING CHIN: Highlight the chin by using a lighter foundation than the one used on the face. SAGGING DOUBLE CHIN: Use a darker foundation on the sagging portion and use a natural skin tone foundation on the face.

67. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Jaw Line and Neck Areas Blend the foundation onto the neck so that the client’s color is consistent from face to neck. Set with a translucent powder. BROAD JAW LINE: Apply a darker shade of foundation over the heavy area of the jaw, starting at the temples. This will minimize the lower part of the face and create an illusion of width in the upper part of the face. NARROW JAW LINE: Highlight by using a lighter foundation shade.

68. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Jaw Line and Neck Areas ROUND, SQUARE, OR TRIANGULAR FACE: Apply a darker shade of foundation over the prominent part of the jaw line. The jaw will appear softer and more oval. SHORT, THICK NECK: Use a darker foundation on the neck than the one used on the face. The neck will appear thinner. LONG, THIN NECK: Apply a lighter shade of foundation on the neck than the one used on the face. This will create fullness and counteract the long, thin appearance of the neck.

69. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes ROUND EYES: Lengthen by extending the shadow beyond the outer corners of the eyes.

70. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes ) CLOSE-SET EYES: Are closer together than the length of one eye. Lightly apply shadow up from the outer edges of the eyes

71. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes ) BULGING (OR PROTRUDING) EYES: Minimize by blending the shadow carefully over the prominent part of the upper lid, carrying it lightly toward the eyebrow.

72. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes ) HEAVY-LIDDED EYES: Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket.

73. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes SMALL EYES: Make them appear larger by extending the shadow slightly above, beyond, and below the eyes. WIDE-SET EYES: Apply the shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid, toward the nose, and blend carefully. DEEP-SET EYES: Use bright, light, reflective colors. Use the lightest color in the crease and a light to medium color sparingly on the lid and brow bone.

74. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes ) DARK CIRCLES UNDER EYES: Apply concealer over the dark area, blending and smoothing it into the surrounding area. Set lightly with translucent powder.

75. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Eyebrows The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. The ideal shape can be drawn in three lines.

76. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. LOW FOREHEAD: A low arch gives more height to a very low forehead. WIDE-SET EYES: Eyes can appear closer by extending the eyebrow lines to the inside corners of the eyes. CLOSE-SET EYES: To make the eyes appear farther apart, widen the distance between the eyebrows and slightly extend them outward. ROUND FACE: Arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower. LONG FACE: Making the eyebrows almost straight can create the illusion of a shorter face. Do not extend the line farther than the outside corners of the eyes. SQUARE FACE: Make a high arch on the end of each eyebrow.

77. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Eyelash Enhancers Lash enhancers and lengtheners contain fibers to make lashes look longer and fuller. Latisse®, a product containing bimatoprost, shows a difference in two to four months of regular use.

78. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Lips LIPS: Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils.

79. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Lips (continued)

80. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Skin Tones RUDDY SKIN: Skin that is red, wind-burned, or affected by rosacea. Apply a yellow or green foundation, blending carefully. Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow base over the entire complexion. Set with translucent or yellow-based powder. SALLOW SKIN: Skin that has a yellowish hue. Apply a pink-based foundation on the affected areas and blend. Set with a translucent powder. WRINKLES: Can be minimized with a foundation. Apply sparingly and evenly in a light, outward, circular motion. Remove any foundation that collects in lines and wrinkles of the face.

81. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Artificial Eyelashes BAND (OR STRIP) LASHES: Eyelashes on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line. INDIVIDUAL LASHES: Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time.

82. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. ADHESIVE: The product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick to, the natural lash line. ALLERGY TEST: Some clients may be allergic to adhesive. When in doubt, give the client an allergy test before applying the lashes. This test may be done in one of two ways: 1. Put a drop of the adhesive behind one ear. 2. Attach a single individual eyelash to each eyelid. In either case, if there is no reaction within 24 hours, it is probably safe to proceed with the application.

83. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Removing Band Lashes 1. You may use commercial preparations, such as pads saturated with special lotions, to remove band eyelashes. The lash base may also be softened by applying a face cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser. 2. Hold the cloth over the eyes for a few seconds to soften the adhesive. 3. Starting from the outer corner, remove the lashes carefully to avoid pulling out the client’s own lashes. 4. Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and adhesive remaining on the eyelid.

84. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Individual Lashes Known as eye tabbing Synthetic Attached directly to client’s eyelashes Manufacturer's directions

85. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Summary and Review List at least eight types of facial cosmetics and how they are used. Foundation evens skin tone and color, conceals minor imperfections of the skin, and protects the skin from climate, dirt, and debris. Concealers cover blemishes and discolorations. Face powder adds a matte or dull finish to the face. Cheek color colors the cheeks and the skin beneath the cheekbones. Lip color colors the lips and enhances or corrects the shape of the lips. Lip liner outlines the lips. Eye shadow accentuates or contours the eyes. Eyeliner outlines and emphasizes the eyes. Eyebrow pencils add color and shape to the eyebrows. Mascara darkens, defines, and thickens the eyelashes.

86. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 2. Name the primary, secondary, and complementary colors. Answer: The primary colors are yellow, red, and blue. The secondary colors are orange, violet, and green. The complementary colors are primary and secondary colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel; when mixed, these colors cancel each other out to create a neutral brown or gray color. 3. List the cosmetics used in basic makeup procedure in the order in which they are applied. Answer: Foundation, concealer, powder, eye color, eyeliner, eyebrow color, mascara, cheek color, lip liner, and lip color.

87. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Summary and Review (continued) 4. What is the purpose of special-occasion makeup? Answer: Special-occasion makeup is a technique of applying makeup that takes into account the circumstances of the event or atmosphere a person may be in; for instance, during an evening event, when lighting is subdued, the makeup application requires more definition for the eyes, cheeks, and lips. 5. What basic principle is all corrective makeup founded on? Answer: The basic principle that all corrective makeup is founded on is that balance, proportion, and symmetry, regardless of a person’s actual facial characteristics, is achievable using proper corrective techniques. 6. Name and describe the two types of artificial eyelashes. Answer: The two types of artificial eyelashes most commonly used are band lashes and individual lashes. Band lashes, or strip lashes, are eyelash hairs on a strip that is applied with adhesive to the natural lash line. Individual lashes are separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time.