1. Chapter 24
Facial Makeup 1

2. Learning Objectives
Describe the various types of cosmetics and their uses for facial makeup.
Explain how to use color theory when choosing cosmetics for makeup application.
Identify different facial types and summarize basic makeup techniques to alter them.
Name and describe the two types of artificial eyelashes.
List tips for creating special-occasion makeup for eyes, cheeks, and lips.
WHY STUDY FACIAL MAKEUP?
Clients rely on you for advice on how to look their best.
Basic makeup techniques provide the finishing touch to any hairstyling service.
A general understanding of facial makeup formulation assists you in understanding when and on whom they should be used.
Highlighting, contouring, and other face-shape altering techniques will help you accent your clients’ best features while minimizing those that are less desirable. 2

3. Introduction
The field of makeup artistry is a very rewarding segment of cosmetology.
The makeup application techniques you employ will vary as greatly as the skin types and personalities of your clients.
The goal of effective makeup application is to enhance the client's individuality, rather than offering a ‘make- over’ based on some ideal standard.
INTRODUCTION
The field of makeup artistry is a very rewarding segment of cosmetology. Makeup artists who master a wide range of application methods are able to build a loyal following of diverse clients.
The makeup application techniques you employ will vary as greatly as the skin types and personalities of your clients.
In the salon setting, many clients request a makeup application that enhances the best features while minimizing those that are less desirable.
Ultimately, the goal of effective makeup application is to enhance the client's individuality, rather than offering a ‘make-over’ based on some ideal standard. 3

4. LESSON ACTIVITY 1
Have students decipher one another's face shape by looking at the figures found on pages 823 through 827 within Chapter 24 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 4

5. Describe Facial Makeup and Their Uses
Foundation – tinted cosmetic also known as base makeup that is used to cover or even out skin coloring; conceal minor imperfections of skin; and protect the skin from climate, dirt, and debris.
Available in liquid, stick, and cream forms.
Primer – used to help disguise less than perfect skin
DESCRIBE FACIAL MAKEUP AND THEIR USES
Foundation, also known as base makeup, is a flesh-toned cosmetic used to minimize the appearance of skin imperfections. It is used to cover or even out skin coloring, conceal minor imperfections of the skin, and protect the skin from climate, dirt, and debris. It is available in liquid, stick, and cream forms. The newest trend is mineral powder makeup.
Primer is used to help disguise less than perfect skin. It is applied to skin prior to foundation to help cancel out or disguise skin discoloration. 5

6. Foundation Chemistry Liquid – water-based foundations with emollients
Oil-free – intended for oilier skin types
Cream – oil-based and thicker than liquid
FOUNDATION CHEMISTRY
Most liquid and cream forms of makeup contain a base mixture of water and oil spreading agents that contain a significant amount of talc and various color agents called pigments.
Liquid: This is a water-based foundation made up of mostly water and emollients such as mineral oil or a silicone such as cyclomethicone. Some may contain alcohol or drying agents. The mixture of water and oil helps apply the makeup color agents evenly.
Oil-free: Intended for oilier skin types; read labels to ensure it has been tested for oily and acne-prone skin.
Cream: Known as oil-based and thicker than liquid; they provide heavier coverage. They are usually intended for dry skin types and are not recommended for oily or acneic skin. 6

7. Concealers Hides dark eye circles Covers blemishes and discolorations
Available in tins, jars, or tubes with wands
CONCEALERS
Concealers are used to hide dark eye circles and cover blemishes and discolorations. They are available in tins, jars, or tubes with wands. 7

8. Face Powders Adds matte finish, absorbs oil, and sets foundation
Comes loose or pressed
Mixture of talc or cornstarch and pigment
FACE POWDERS
Fine cosmetic powder, used to add a matte or dull finish to the face; it helps absorb excess oil, minimize oily shine, and “set” the foundation. It comes in two forms: loose and pressed. Both are a mixture of talc or cornstarch with color pigments added.
Loose powder and pressed powder have the same basic composition.
Pressed powder
Pressed powders are compressed and held together with binders such as zinc stearate. Some are considered translucent. 8

9. Eye Shadow Accentuates eye shape Compliments eye color 9 EYE SHADOW
© Kubais/Shutterstock.com
EYE SHADOW
Eye shadows are cosmetics used to accentuate the eye shape and compliment eye color.
Available in every color and in cream, pressed, and loose powder forms. 9

10. Eyeliner Used to define the eyes Makes the lash line appear fuller 10
© Africa Studio/Shutterstock.com
EYE LINER
Eye liner is used to define the eyes and make the lash line appear fuller. 10

11. Eyebrow Color Used to add color and contour brows
Available in pencil and powder form
Should not harshly contrast with haircolor
EYEBROW COLOR
Eyebrow pencils, and eyebrow powders, are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows. 11

12. Cheek Color Called blush or rouge Comes in powder, gel, or cream
Application should look soft and natural
CHEEK COLOR
Cheek color, also called blush or rouge, comes in powder, gel, and cream.
Cream is used after foundation and before powder.
Powder is used after foundation and powder have been applied. 12

13. Lip Color Lipstick or gloss Lip liner
Formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes
Used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips
Lip liner
Used to outline lips; keeps lip color from feathering
LIP COLOR
Lip color, also called lipstick or gloss, is a cosmetic in paste form, available in a variety of colors. It is used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips. Some contain sunscreen; others contain moisturizers.
Available in many colors and forms: Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, and sticks. All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes.
Choosing lip color: Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip shape. Do not apply directly from a container unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container and take it from the spatula with a disposable lip brush.
Lip Liner
Lip Liner is generally applied before the lip color to define the shape of the lips and keep color from bleeding. It also helps keep lip color from feathering. Coordinate lip liner with the chosen lip color. Sharpen the lip liner and sanitize the sharpener before every use.  13

14. Mascara Used to darken and thicken lashes
Polymer product: Includes water, wax, thickeners, film formers, and preservatives
Some contain lengthening fibers
© kedrov/Shutterstock.com
MASCARA
Mascara is used to darken, define, and thicken the eyelashes. It is available in liquid, cake, and cream form. It enhances the natural lashes, making them appear thicker and longer. Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows.
Polymer product: Include water, wax, thickeners, film-formers, and preservatives in their formulation.
Pigments are carbon black, carmine, ultramarine, chromium oxide, and iron oxides.
Some contain rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken the hair fibers. 14

15. Other Cosmetics Eye makeup removers Greasepaint Cake (pancake) makeup
Eye makeup removers: Oil based or water-based; used to remove makeup
Greasepaint: Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes
Cake or pancake makeup: A shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge; it gives good coverage and is used to cover scars and pigmentation defects. 15

16. Makeup Brushes and Other Tools
Hair – the term for the bristles
Ferrule – the metal part that holds the brush intact and supports the strength of the bristles.
Handle – comes in a wide range of lengths and can be made of wood, acrylic, plastic, or metal.
Gently cleanse brushes with an antibacterial detergent followed by a commercial cleaning solution.
MAKEUP BRUSHES AND OTHER TOOLS
Hair is the term for the bristles.
Ferrule is the metal part that holds the brush intact and supports the strength of the bristles.
Handle: The handle comes in a wide range of lengths and can be made of wood, acrylic, plastic, or metal.
Caring for makeup brushes
Gently cleanse brushes with an antibacterial detergent followed by a commercial cleaning solution.
Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing.
Reshape the wet bristles and lay the brushes flat to dry.
Lay brushes flat on a clean towel until dry then store them in a clean, closed covered container.
(continues) 16

17. Makeup Brushes and Other Tools (continued)
Powder brush
Blush brush
Concealer brush
Lip brush
Eye shadow brush
Eyeliner brush
Angle brush
Lash comb
Brow brush
Tweezers
Eyelash curler
Pencil sharpener
MAKEUP BRUSHES AND OTHER TOOLS (continued)
Powder brush: Large, soft brush used to apply powder.
Blush brush: Smaller, more tapered version of the powder brush; excellent for applying powder cheek color.
Concealer brush: Usually narrow, firm synthetic brush with a flat edge; used to apply concealer around the eyes and over blemishes.
Lip brush: Similar to the concealer brush, with a more tapered edge.
Eye shadow brushes: Available in a variety of sizes and shapes. The softer and larger the brush, the more diffused the shadow will be. Firm eye shadow brushes are best for depositing a dense layer of color.
Eyeliner brush: Fine, tapered, firm bristles; used to apply liquid liner or shadow to the lash line.
Angle brush: Firm, thin bristles; used to apply powder to the eyebrows or eye liner at the lash line.
Lash comb: Tiny, thin plastic or metal teeth separate eyelashes after mascara application.
Brow brush: Used to apply mascara to the lashes or brush brows into place.
Tweezers: Used to groom eyebrows, remove excess facial hair, and apply false eyelashes.
Eyelash curler: A device used to give lift and curl the upper eyelashes.
Pencil sharpener: Used before each application of eye or lip liner pencil to ensure ease of application and hygiene. 17

18. Single-Use Implements
Sponges
Powder puffs
Mascara wands
Spatulas
Disposable lip brushes
Sponge-tipped shadow applicators
Cotton swabs
Cotton pads or puffs
SINGLE-USE IMPLEMENTS
Single-use implements are disposable and should be discarded after one use.
Sponges: Available in a variety of sizes and shapes, including wedges and circles, and work well to apply and blend foundation, cream or powder blush, pressed powder, or concealer.
Powder puffs: May be made of velour or cotton and are used to apply and blend powder, powder foundation, or powder blush.
Mascara wands: Used to apply mascara on a client; generally disposable, so as to ensure proper hygiene.
Spatulas : A tool with a wide, flat base; used to remove makeup from containers.
Disposable lip brushes: Used to hygienically apply lip color.
Sponge-tipped shadow applicators: Used to apply shadow and lip color or to blend eyeliner; may be used damp to intensify eye shadow color.
Cotton swabs: May be used to apply shadow, blend eyeliner, apply lip balm, or to correct application mistakes.
Cotton pads or puffs: May be used with toner or makeup removers. 18

19. How to Use Color Theory for Makeup Application
Warm and Cool Colors
Warm and cool colors form the basis of all makeup application.
Three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client: skin color, eye color, and hair color.
HOW TO USE COLOR THEORY FOR MAKEUP APPLICATION
Warm and cool colors form the basis of all makeup application.
There are three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client: skin color, eye color, and hair color. 19

20. Determining Skin Color
Determine if skin is light, medium, or dark and whether it has warm or cool undertones.
Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and even some yellow-greens.
Cool colors encompass blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds. 20

21. Selecting Makeup Colors
Fair skin color
Medium skin color
Deep skin color
SELECTING MAKEUP COLORS
Pairing warm and cool colors is not recommended. The colors will compete with each other and result in an unbalanced appearance. Staying within one range of colors will ensure a balanced, beautiful look.
When applying makeup, always remember to analyze the client’s skin type and choose makeup that will enhance their skin tone, eye and hair color, as well as their features.
Once you have determined if the skin is fair, medium, or deep, you may choose eye, cheek, and lip products. Select colors to match the skin tone in level, or try to contrast for more impact. Most skin tones are complimented by a wide range of colors.
Be cautious when choosing lip, cheek, and eye colors for deep skin tones.
Light or flesh-toned shades without enough blue pigment will appear gray or chalky on the skin. 21

22. Complementary Colors for Eyes
Neutrals are safest
Blue eyes
Orange, gold, peach, copper, mauve, plum, taupe, camel
Green eyes
Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet, coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, purples
Brown eyes
Can wear any color: Greens, blues, grays, silvers
COMPLEMENTARY COLORS FOR EYES
Neutrals are always the safest choice. Contrasting eye color with complementary colors will emphasize the eye color most effectively.
Blue eyes: Orange, gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel
Green eyes: Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet, coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples
Brown eyes: Neutral and can wear any color: greens, blues, grays, and silvers. 22

23. Adding Cheek and Lip Color
Coordinate in same color family as eye makeup
Hair and eye color
Coordination of hair and eye color with eye makeup
ADDING CHEEK AND LIP COLOR
Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup.
Hair and eye color should be taken into account when determining eye makeup color. 23

24. Hair Color and Eye Color
Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color. 24

25. Mature Skin
Older clients that may have uneven, textured skin due to wrinkles or sun damage.
Shimmer, glitter, or frosted colors can accent dry patches or wrinkles.
© Kurhan/Shutterstock.com
MATURE SKIN
Take care when choosing products for older clients that may have uneven, textured skin due to wrinkles or sun damage.
Shimmer, glitter, or frosted colors can accent dry patches or wrinkles. 25

26. Alter Face Shapes with Makeup
Highlight
Contour
ALTER FACE SHAPES WITH MAKEUP
When you analyze a client's face, you are sure to find that some features are not symmetrical. Using proper highlighting and contouring techniques helps define facial features. The basic rule when altering a face shape is that drawing light to an area emphasizes features, while creating a shadow minimizes them.
Highlight: Highlight is produced when a product that is lighter than the client’s skin tone is placed on the high planes of the face.
Contour: Contour is formed when a product that is darker than the client’s skin tone is used to create shadows over prominent features so they are less noticeable. 26

27. Analyzing Face Shape: Oval
Oval-shaped face:
Artistically ideal proportions and features.
The face is divided into three equal horizontal sections.
The first third is measured from the hairline to the top of the eyebrows.
The second third is measured from the top of the eyebrows to the end of the nose.
The last third is measured from the end of the nose to the bottom of the chin.
The ideal oval face is approximately three-fourths as wide as it is long. The distance between the eyes is the width of one eye. 27

28. Analyzing Face Shape: Round
Usually broader in proportion to its length.
Rounding chin and hairline.
Apply corrective makeup to slenderize and lengthen the face. 28

29. Analyzing Face Shape: Square
Composed of straight lines, with a wide forehead and square jaw line.
Apply corrective makeup to offset the squareness and soften the hard lines of the face. 29

30. Analyzing Face Shape: Triangular
Characterized by a jaw that is wider than the forehead.
Apply corrective makeup to create width at the forehead, slenderize the jaw line, and add length to the face. 30

31. Analyzing Face Shape: Heart-Shaped
Has a wide forehead and narrow, pointed chin.
Apply corrective makeup to minimize the width of the forehead and to increase the width of the jaw line. 31

32. Analyzing Face Shape: Diamond
ANALYZING FACE SHAPE: DIAMOND-SHAPED
Has a narrow forehead, with the greatest width across the cheekbones.
Apply corrective makeup to reduce the width across the cheekbone line. 32

33. Analyzing Face Shape: Oblong
Has greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face. Long and narrow.
Apply corrective makeup to create the illusion of width across the cheekbone line, making the face appear shorter. 33

34. Altering the Forehead Area
Low forehead
Protruding forehead
ALTERING THE FOREHEAD AREA
For a low forehead, apply a lighter foundation just above the brows.
For a protruding forehead, apply a darker color. 34

35. Altering the Nose and Chin Areas
Large or protruding nose
Short and flat nose
Broad nose
ALTERING THE NOSE AND CHIN AREAS
For a large, protruding nose, apply a darker foundation along the sides of the nose.
For a small, flat nose, apply a lighter foundation down the center of the nose.
For a broad nose, use a darker foundation along the sides of the nose and nostrils.
(continues) 35

36. Altering the Nose and Chin Areas (continued)
Protruding chin and receding nose
Receding chin
Sagging double chin
ALTERING THE NOSE AND CHIN AREAS (continued)
For a protruding chin, minimize with a darker foundation.
For a receding chin, highlight the chin by using a lighter foundation.
For a sagging double chin, use a darker foundation on the sagging portion. 36

37. Altering the Jawline Broad jawline Narrow jawline 37
Contour clients with a fuller build or sagging jowls with a darker foundation.
To correct a narrow jawline, highlight the thinnest areas with lighter foundation. 37

38. Altering Eye Shape: Round Eyes
© survald/Shutterstock.com
ALTERING EYE SHAPE: ROUND EYES
Lengthen by extending the shadow beyond the outer corners of the eyes. 38

39. Altering Eye Shape: Close-Set Eyes
Close-set eyes are closer together than the length of one eye.
Lightly apply shadow up from the outer edges of the eyes. 39

40. Altering Eye Shape: Protruding or Bulging Eyes
This can be minimized by blending the deeper color shadow over the prominent part of the upper lid.
Blend the color from the outer corners inward toward the center, carrying it just past the creases.
ALTERING EYE SHAPE: PROTRUDING OR BULGING EYES
Minimize by blending the shadow carefully over the prominent part of the upper lid, carrying it lightly toward the eyebrow. 40

41. Altering Eye Shape: Hooded Eyes
Hooded eyelids (ptosis): Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket. 41

42. Corrective Makeup for the Eyes
Small eyes Wide-set eyes
Deep-set eyes
CORRECTIVE MAKEUP FOR THE EYES
Small eyes: Make them appear larger by extending the shadow slightly above, beyond, and below the eyes.
Wide-set eyes: Apply the shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid, toward the nose, and blend carefully.
Deep-set eyes: Use bright, light, reflective colors. Use the lightest color in the crease and a light to medium color sparingly on the lid and brow bone.
Dark circles under eyes: Apply a color correcting concealer. 42

43. Altering Eyebrows
Ideal shape
(continues) 43

44. Altering Eyebrows (continued)
Low forehead
Wide-set eyes
Close-set eyes
Round face
Long face
Square face
ALTERING EYEBROWS (continued)
Low forehead: A low arch gives more height to forehead.
Wide-set eyes: Eyes can look closer by bringing the eyebrows inward.
Close-set eyes: Widen the distance between brows.
Round face: Arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower.
Long face: make the eyebrows almost straight to create the illusion of a shorter face.
Square face: Create a high arch on the ends of the eyebrows to make the face more oval. 44

45. Eyelash Enhancers
Lash enhancers and lengtheners contain fibers to make lashes look longer and fuller.
Latisse®, a product containing bimatoprost, shows a difference in two to four months of regular use. 45

46. The Lips (continues) 46 THE LIPS
Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils.
(continues) 46

47. The Lips (continued) 47

48. Skin Tones and Camoflaging Techniques
Ruddy skin (red)
Sallow skin (yellow)
Camouflaging techniques
SKIN TONES
Ruddy skin: Skin that is red, wind-burned, or affected by rosacea. Apply a yellow or green foundation, blending carefully. Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow base over the entire complexion. Set with translucent or yellow-based powder.
Sallow skin: Skin that has a yellowish hue. Apply a pink-based foundation on the affected areas and blend. Set with a translucent powder.
Camouflaging Techniques
Use corrective makeup to conceal scars, burns, and pigmentation disorders. 48

49. LESSON ACTIVITY 2
Have students correct face shape by using a variety of foundations as well as altering the eyebrows, eyeshape, and lip shape. 49

50. Steps for Basic Makeup Application
Step-by-step procedure to enhance your client's features.
OUTLINE THE STEPS FOR BASIC MAKEUP APPLICATION
Basic makeup application is a step-by-step procedure to enhance your client's features.
See Procedure 24-1, Basic Professional Makeup Application, found on page 823 of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
(continues) 50

51. Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)
Client Consultation
Consultation area
Lighting
Information gathering
OUTLINE THE STEPS FOR BASIC MAKEUP APPLICATION (continued)
Your role is to listen and then make recommendations.
Consultation area: Should be clean and tidy. Keep a portfolio that includes photographs of your work or pictures from magazines.
Lighting: Essential for both the consultation and application of the makeup. Face should be evenly lit without dark shadows. Natural light is best. If necessary to use artificial light, it should be a combination of incandescent and fluorescent light.
Information gathering: Information should include skin condition, how much or how little makeup the client wears, daily vs. special-occasion makeup, amount of time spent applying makeup, color likes and dislikes, and any trouble areas. Record on client consultation card.
Retail sales: Review and restate your written advice with the client at the end of the service to help sell retail products.
(continues) 51

52. Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)
Apply Foundation
Match to skin tone.
Blend with disposable makeup sponge.
Avoid line of demarcation.
© Pogonici/Shutterstock.com
OUTLINE THE STEPS FOR BASIC MAKEUP APPLICATION (continued)
Foundation Selection
Match as closely as possible to the actual skin tone. If it is too light, it will have a chalky or gray appearance. If it is too dark, it will look dirty or muddy. Determine the correct foundation color by applying a stripe of color to clean skin on the jawline. Blend slightly. Color that disappears on the skin is the correct tone.
Blend makeup sponge using short strokes to ensure there is no line of demarcation.
(continues) 52

53. Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)
Apply eye shadow
Apply eyeliners
Apply blush
Apply lip color
Apply mascara
Apply concealer
Apply powder
Apply eyebrow pencil
Apply eyebrow powder
OUTLINE THE STEPS FOR BASIC MAKEUP APPLICATION (continued)
Apply concealer: Make sure that the color is no more than two shades lighter.
Apply powder: Apply loose powder with a large powder brush or a disposable puff.
Apply eyebrow pencil: Sharpen the eyebrow pencil and wipe with clean tissue before each use.
Apply eyebrow powder: Scrape powder from the container onto a palette or tissue then, using a clean, angle brush, fill in brows with the same techniques used when applying pencil.
Apply eye shadow: Use a highlight color to accent certain areas such as the brow bone. Use a base color, close to the skin tone across the entire eye. Use a contour color to contour the crease, minimize puffiness or define the lash line.
Apply eyeliners: Be extremely cautious when applying eyeliner. You must have a steady hand and be sure that your client remains still.
Apply blush: For a fresh look, color can be applied to the apples of the cheeks, blending outward toward the temples.
Apply lip color: Properly applied color should be even and symmetrical on both sides of the mouth.
Apply mascara: If you are using an eyelash curler, you must curl the lashes before applying mascara. Apply mascara so that it coats the tiniest hairs at the inner and outer corners of the eyes. 53

54. Apply Artificial Eyelashes
Strip lashes
Remove strip eyelashes
Individual lashes
© iStockphoto.com\Shariff Che\'Lah
APPLY ARTIFICIAL EYELASHES
Strip lashes: Be sure to choose the correct color and trim to the correct length.
Remove strip eyelashes: Be sure to use cotton pads that are saturated with makeup remover.
Individual lashes: This utilizes tab or cluster (flare) eyelashes. Eyelash adhesive is used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick, to the natural lash line.
See Procedure 24-2, False Eyelash Application, found on page 826 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 54

55. Special-Occasion Makeup for Eyes
Option 1: Striking contour eyes
© Kett Cosmetics. Makeup and photography by Sheila McKenna.
HOW TO USE SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP
Option 1: Striking contour eyes
Apply the base color from the lashes to the brow with a shadow brush or applicator.
Apply medium tone on the lid, blending from lash line to crease with the shadow brush or applicator.
Apply medium to deep color in the crease, blending up toward the eyebrow but ending below it.
Apply highlight shadow under the brow bone with the shadow brush or applicator.
Apply eyeliner on the upper lash line from the outside corner in, tapering as you reach the inner corner. Blend with the small brush or applicator.
Apply shadow, in the same color as the liner, directly over the liner. This will give longevity and intensity to the liner. Repeat on the bottom lash line, if desired.
Apply mascara with a disposable wand.
(continues) 55

56. Special-Occasion Makeup for Eyes (continued)
Option 2: Dramatic smoky eyes
HOW TO USE SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP (continued)
Option 2: Dramatic smoky eyes
Encircle the eye with dark gray, dark brown, or black eyeliner.
Smudge with a small shadow brush or disposable applicator.
Using the shadow brush or applicator, apply dark shadow from the upper lash line to the crease, softening and blending as you approach the crease. The shadow should be dark from outer to inner corner. You may choose shimmering or matte-finish eye shadows.
Repeat on the lower lash line, carefully blending any hard edges.
If desired, add a highlight color in a shimmering or matte finish to the upper brow area with the shadow brush or applicator.
Apply mascara with a disposable wand.
Add individual or band lashes if desired. 56

57. Special-Occasion Makeup for Cheeks
Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition.
Apply with a blush brush and blend carefully.
Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of the cheeks and blend.
Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones for highlights. You may use cream or powder colors.
SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP FOR CHEEKS
Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition.
Apply with a blush brush or applicator, and blend carefully.
Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of the cheeks and blend.
Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones for highlight. Note: You may use cream or powder colors. 57

58. Special-Occasion Makeup for Lips
Line lips, fill with lip pencil, and blot.
Add lip color.
Apply gloss to center of lips.
SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP FOR LIPS
Most clients prefer brighter or darker colors for special occasions. You may use shimmer colors or matte colors, if desired.
1. Apply liner color to the lips. Fill in the lip line with pencil and blot.
2. Add similar color in lipstick over the entire mouth with a lip brush or applicator.
3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator. 58

59. Summary and Review
How to identify the basic face shapes and that the oval shape has artistically ideal proportions and features.
Corrective makeup, shadowing, and highlighting, we can create the illusion of oval for almost any face shape.
We can contour the face through shadowing and highlighting, and minimize facial features that are unflattering.
How to use corrective makeup procedures.
Being able to effectively apply corrective makeup will make you as a professional very valuable to your clients.
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
We have learned how to identify the basic face shapes and that the oval shape has artistically ideal proportions and features.
Through corrective makeup, shadowing, and highlighting, we can create the illusion of oval for almost any face shape.
We can contour, again through shadowing and highlighting, and minimize facial features that are unflattering.
Corrective makeup procedures can be used to address large protruding noses, close- and wide-set eyes, double chins, and much more.
Therefore, being able to effectively apply corrective makeup will make you as a professional very valuable to your clients, all of whom want to look their best. 59

60. Chapter Review Questions
List eight types of facial cosmetics and how they are used.
List the two color temperatures and the range of shades they each encompass.
What is the purpose of special occasion makeup?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. List eight types of facial cosmetics and how they are used.
Answer: Foundation is to minimize the appearance of skin imperfections. Concealers are used to hide the dark eye circles. Face powder is used to create a matte finish. Eye shadows are cosmetics used to accentuate the eye shape and compliment eye color. Eyeliners are a cosmetic used to define the eyes and make the lash line appear fuller. Eyebrow pencils are used to add color shape to the eyebrows. Cheek color is used to add color to the cheeks. Lip color is used to enhance the lips.
2. List the two color temperatures and the range of shades they each encompass.
Answer: Warm colors range from yellow and gold through to orange, red-orange, most reds, and even some yellow-greens. Cool colors encompass blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds.
3. What is the purpose of special occasion makeup?
Answer: To create a look that will reflect the occasion that the client will be attending. 60

61. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
What is the purpose of face shape altering makeup?
Name and describe the two types of artificial eyelashes.
List the key cosmetics used in the basic makeup procedure in the order in which they are applied.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
4. What is the purpose of face shape altering makeup?
Answer: To accent certain features and minimize less attractive features
5. Name and describe the two types of artificial eyelashes.
Answer: Strip lashes are on a band that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line. Individual lashes are separate lashes that are applied to the base of the eyelashes one at a time.
6. List the key cosmetics used in the basic makeup procedure in the order in which they are applied.
Answer: The order in which cosmetics are applied to the skin is foundation, concealer, loose powder, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, eyebrow pencil, blush, lip pencil, and then lip color. 61