Chapter 15 (2012 Edition) Scalp Care, Shampooing, & Conditioning

~ judgments about surroundings the shampoo: ~ heavenly ~ forgettable client ~ judgments about surroundings the shampoo: ~ heavenly ~ forgettable ~ nightmare First (preliminary) step for services Add to the side bar: has a psychological impact Nadinesalons.com

Encompases: Scalp care Massage Shampooing Conditioning

quality relaxation time happy with shampoo ~ happy with entire visit *Soothing * pleasurable sets the mood quality relaxation time happy with shampoo ~ happy with entire visit Read: Why Study…. Nbcaugusta.com

Scalp Massage healthy scalp ~ cleanliness ~ stimulation Manipulations used in scalp treatments and ***shampooing media.lvrj.com/images/2785958.jpg

Scalp treatments: Given with a continuous even motion Stimulate the scalp Help to relax the client Do not massage or manipulate a client’s scalp if abrasions are present

Scalp massage is performed: Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent During the shampoo (once the conditioner has been applied) for relaxation Procedure 15-11 Page 338 Difference between Relaxation and Treatment: Are the products that are used Follow all manufacturer’s directions

Knowing the location of: ~ muscles ~ blood vessels ~ nerve points scalp and neck ~ areas that benefit from massage movements Read: FYI www.bartleby.com/107/Images/small/image378.jpg

Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment Recommended after a hair and scalp examination Given either before or after the shampoo Depending on which treatment is given

Dry Hair and Scalp Treatments Deficiency of natural oil Use scalp preparations with moisturizing and emollient ingredients Avoid: strong soaps, mineral- or sulfonated-oil base, greasy or high alcohol content Use a scalp steamer or hooded dryer Procedure 15-4 page 329

Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment Manipulate scalp Increases blood circulation to the surface Hardened sebum will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing Procedure 15-5 page 330

Antidandruff Treatment Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and lotions control dandruff Moisturizing salon treatments soften and loosen scales Recommend additional salon treatments and antidandruff home care Procedure 15-5 page 331 Read “Service Tip”

Brushing the Hair Correct hair brushing: Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp Helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray buildup from the hair Gives hair added shine Include before every shampoo and scalp treatment Examine scalp for abrasions and infections

Four exceptions to HAIR brushing: Do not brush before a chemical service Do not brush if the scalp is irritated Add: Do not brush wet hair

NO brushing, shampooing, or massaging the scalp prior to: ~ single-process and double-process haircolor ~ highlighting ~ most chemical relaxers (FMD) ~ some temporary rinses ~ semipermanent haircolor (FMD) *If recommended, gently shampoo to avoid scalp irritation (especially prior to permanent wave)

Natural (boar) bristle brushes have tiny overlapping layers Cleans and adds luster to the hair Nylon bristles are shiny and smooth More suitable to hairstyling Not on test, however important Add: never use a comb to loosen scales-can tear off skin and cause bleeding

Understanding Shampoo analyze ~ hair and scalp Check for: dry, dehydrated hair Thinning excessive hair ~ left in the sink dry, tight scalp oily scalp www.aderans.com.sg/images/1-p16.jpg Cme.medscape.com

scalp disorders or diseases ~ tick or lice infestation abnormal flaking open wounds scalp irritations scalp disorders or diseases ~ tick or lice infestation www.bosleymedical.com/wp-content/uploads/2009...

alert the stylist ~ any hair or scalp conditions infectious disease is never treated ~ referred to a physician cleanse the hair and scalp prior to services home care quality hair care products

remove all: dirt oils cosmetics skin debris cleanse regularly ~ combat oils ~ perspiration ~ dirt ~ breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria

shampoo as often as necessary excessive: ~ strips protective oil (sebum) oily hair shampooed more often Add to side bar: Shampoo products account for the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products

Selecting the Proper Shampoo skilled at selecting shampoos read the labels make informed decisions recommend home-care items select a shampoo ~ condition of hair and scalp

oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated Be aware: ~ has the hair been treated with a chemical service (lightened, colored, permed, chemically treated) ~ abused by harsh shampoos ~ damaged by improper care ~ exposed to the elements

www.ourvanity.com/images/damaged-hair.jpg www.enviroblog.org/hair.jpg

right home-care products ~ makes all the difference ~ looks, feels, and behaves wrong product choice ~ good haircut look bad affects outcome of chemical services

Alibaba.com Hairsalon-windsor.co.uk Sleekhair.com Duelle.co.za Tuscanysalon.com

***only professional products *guaranteed when purchased in a salon *can only guarantee your chemical services if professional products are used at home. client’s ~ good advertising for you

Pure Substances and Physical Mixtures All matter classified as a pure substance or a physical mixture Pure substance: * a chemical combination of matter in definite proportions * has unique properties * example: Distilled water *tap (faucet) water is not pure water

Physical mixture: *physical combination of matter in any proportions *combined properties of the substances in the mixture *example: salt water Most of the products used by cosmetologists and nail technicians/estheticians are physical mixtures

Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions All physical mixtures ~ difference between: *size of the particles *solubility of the substance

Solution: ~ two or more mixable substances Solute: ~ substance dissolved in a solution Solvent: ~ dissolves the solute and makes the solution Water: the universal solvent

Miscible liquids ~ mutually soluble * mixed into stable solutions ex. water and alcohol Stays mixed-forms a solution They do not separate Ex. Salt water Immiscible liquids ~ not mixed into stable solutions ex. water and oil

~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles ~ separate over time Suspensions ~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles ~ separate over time *some lotions and creams-needs to be shaken ex. glitter nail polish oil and vinegar salad dressing calamine lotion nail polish www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=...

Emulsions ~ unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances ~ plus an emulsifier * brings two incompatible materials and binds them into a fairly stable blend ~ separate over time ~ stable for at least three years *cosmetics should be used within one year Name two examples of an emulsifier in hair care products.

~ allow oil and water to mix The term=“surface active agent” Surfactants ~ allow oil and water to mix The term=“surface active agent” Head of the surfactant molecule is Hydrophilic = water-loving Tail is Lipophilic = oil-loving Fig. 12-8 www.pg.com/.../hair_twh_133/hair_133_02.jpg

Oil-in-water emulsion ~ oil is emulsified in water *do not feel greasy Read “Did You Know” Ex. Mayonnaise ~egg yolk emulsifies the oil and the water Used in salons: Haircolor, shampoos, conditioners, hand creams, and facial creams www.cachebeauty.com/Body_Drench/body_drench_t... www.stuff4beauty.com/images2/socolor.jpg

Water-in-oil emulsions ~ water emulsified in oil * feels greasy ex. Cold cream, styling creams, foot balms 2.bp.blogspot.com/.../UcgK1KtniDk/s320/ponds.jpg riggas.com/images/hydrating300.jpg

Other Physical Mixtures Ointments, pastes, pomades, and styling waxes-semi solid mixtures Made with petroleum jelly, oil, and wax Off-the-Scalp powdered lighteners are physical mixtures

Other common product ingredients are: Volatile alcohols ~ evaporate easily * isopropyl alcohol (rubbing) *ethyl (hairspray) Fatty alcohols: (nonvolatile alcohol waxes) cetyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol *Skin and hair conditioners www.getprice.com.au/.../851/350__1_1499052-1.jpg

~ used in place of ammonia * less odor Alkanolamines ~ neutralize acids ~ raise pH of products ~ used in place of ammonia * less odor www.salonsupplies.co.uk/dyn/product/large_pro...

Ammonia ~ raises pH in products ~ allows solution to penetrate hair shaft ex. Ammonium hydroxide (chemical relaxer) ammonium thioglycolate (perm solution)

~ moisturizer in skin and body creams Glycerin ~ moisturizer in skin and body creams Silicones ~ type of oil in conditioners and skin, nail products ~ less greasy ~ does not cause comedones ~ silky smooth feel on skin ~ shine to hair www.thebeautyshoppe.com/Products/Images/power...

Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) ~ evaporate very quickly ex. Hairspray * SD alcohol (ethyl alcohol) Volatile organic solvents *ethyl acetate *isopropyl alcohols Ex. Nail polish, base and top coats polish removers dailyvitamin.typepad.com/.a/6a010536308b66970...

Potential Hydrogen (pH) small p =quantity capital H =the hydrogen ion Add to the side bar: potential hydrogen Understanding pH ~ affects hair, skin, and nails ~ all salon services

~ carries an electrical charge Ionization Water and pH Ion ~ an atom or molecule ~ carries an electrical charge Ionization ~ separation of an atom or molecule ~into positive and negative electrical charges Hairstraightening.net

Anion ~ ion ~ negative electrical charge Cation ~ positive electrical charge

Water molecules ionize ~ hydrogen ions ~ hydroxide ions Acid 1 4 Water molecules ionize ~ hydrogen ions ~ hydroxide ions pH scale measures these ions Hydrogen ions are acidic Hydroxide ions are alkaline (base) Neutral Alkaline 14 www.blobs.org/science/chemistry/ph1.gif www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/.../dissociation.gif

*only products that contain water can have a pH Add: oil and wax cannot be dissolved with water (no pH) *pure water is neutral pH -equal balance of acid and alkaline

The pH Scale measures ~ acidity (below 7 acidic) ~ alkalinity (base) of a substance (above 7 alkaline)

Range from 0-14 pH of 7 is a neutral solution Next slide:everyday foods/products

Above 7 alkaline solution Trc.ucdavis.edu Below 7 acidic solution Above 7 alkaline solution Note: strengths

pH is a Logarithmic scale Two whole numbers ~ multiples of 10 pH is a Logarithmic scale Two whole numbers 10x10=100 times more acidic or alkaline 10 10 x 10=100 pHschool.com

0 5 6 7 14 Pure water 100 times more alkaline than hair Pure water Skin water 0 5 6 7 14 neutral Pure water 100 times more alkaline than hair Pure water ~ hair to swell as much as 20% ~ drying to the skin

Acids and Alkalis Acids-below pH 7.0 ***turns litmus paper ~ blue to red Alpha hydroxy acids: Derived from plants (mostly fruits) Acids used in salons exfoliate the skin and adjust the pH of lotions and creams

*contract and harden the hair *thioglycolic acid ~ permanent waving solution

Alkalis “alkali” and “base” ~ interchangeable *hydroxide ion *pH above 7 ~ litmus paper from red to blue *feels slippery and soapy on the skin *softens and swells ~ hair, skin, cuticle, and calloused skin

*sodium hydroxide (13 or higher on pH scale) ~ lye ~ very strong alkali ~ drain cleaners ~ chemical hair relaxers Determine how many times stronger sodium hydroxide is to hair.

A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times stronger than the hair FYI A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times stronger than the hair Same strength as Drain cleaner Short processing time Drying to the hair Can disintegrate the hair if too strong for the hair’s texture

Follow manufacturer’s directions Do not let product touch or sit on the skin Where safety glasses to avoid eye contact. Consult MSDS

Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions Acids and alkalis in equal proportions-neutralize each other-forms water Neutralizing shampoos and normalizing lotions (used in chemical relaxers) neutralize hair relaxers Liquid soaps neutralize callous softener residues A basic understanding of chemistry will help you use professional products effectively and safely in the salon.

Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions acids and alkalis ~ equal proportions ~ neutralize to form water neutralizing shampoos/normalizing lotions ~ neutralize hydroxide relaxers ~ acid-alkali neutralization reaction

The pH scale page 313 understanding pH ~ select the proper shampoo acidic shampoo ~ 0 - 6.9 alkaline shampoo ~ pH rating of 7.1 or higher more alkaline ~ stronger and harsher

leaves the hair ~ dry ~ brittle ~ porous ~ cause fading in color-treated hair slightly acidic shampoo ~ more closely matches the ideal pH of hair Focus On…

The pH Scale Acid: 0 – 6.9 Neutral: 7.0 Alkaline: 7.1 – 14 Project-Litmus paper test Acid :turns Litmus paper from blue to red Alkalis: turns Litmus paper from red to blue

The human body is made up of approximately 70% water and Add to the side bar: page 314 The human body is made up of approximately 70% water and water covers almost 75% of the Earth’s surface

The Chemistry of Water most abundant and important element on Earth “universal solvent” ~ dissolves more substances than any other solvent fresh water ~ purified by sedimentation ~ filtration chlorine is added to kill bacteria

Boiling ~ 212 degrees F destroys most microbes Distillation ~ heat water to a vapor ~ condense the purified vapor ~ collect as a liquid

Duby.unl.edu/chem

used in the manufacturing of cosmetics Water used for: ~ shampooing ~ mixing solutions ~ many other functions

The Chemistry of Water Review: Purification Sedimentation Filtration Chlorine Boiling Distillation

classified as hard or soft Soft water ~ rain water ~ chemically softened water ~ allows soap and shampoo to lather freely ~ preferred for shampooing

Hard water ~ contains minerals ~ reduced ability of shampoo to lather readily ~ may change the results of haircoloring services ***use demineralizing shampoo

The Chemistry of Shampoos understand ~ chemical and botanical ingredients ~ regularly found in shampoo Many shampoos have ingredients in common small differences in formulation makes one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition.

Water is the main ingredient ~ purified ~ deionized Usually the first ingredient listed Ingredients are listed in descending order

Surfactants Second ingredient ~ surfactant ~ base detergent ~ cleansing ~ “surface active agent”

A surfactant molecule has two ends: ~ hydrophilic ~ water attracting “head” ~ lipophilic ~ oil attracting “tail” Pg.com/science/haircare/hair twh 120.htm

creates a push-pull process ~ oils, dirt, and deposits ~ roll up into little balls ~ lifted off in the water ~ rinsed from the hair

Other ingredients added to surfactants ~wide variety Moisturizers Oils Proteins Preservatives Foam enhancers Perfumes

http://www.long-healthy-hair-advisor.com/shampoo-ingredients.html

Shampoo

Types of Shampoo shampoo product ~ most $ spent in hair care products be knowledgeable ~ products you are selling skilled in demonstrating their use Your credibility ~ will be in question if client is better informed than you are

shampoos for every type of hair or scalp condition ~ dry ~ oily ~ fine ~ coarse ~ limp ~ lightened ~ permed ~ relaxed ~ color-treated ~ chemically treated ~ deposit a slight amount of color ~ cleanse build-up or mineral deposits

List of ingredients determines: ~ shiny and manageable ~ treat a scalp or hair condition ~ prepare hair for a chemical treatment www.discounthaircareproducts.com/.../t_296.jpg

pH-Balanced Shampoo 4.5-5.5 prevents excessive dryness hair damage during cleansing close the hair cuticle Recommended for color treated or lightened

Conditioning Shampoos Known as moisturizing shampoos make hair appear smooth and shiny improve manageability contains protein and biotin (conditioning agents)

These conditioning agents: ~ restore moisture ~ elasticity Keune.com These conditioning agents: ~ restore moisture ~ elasticity ~ strengthen the hair shaft ~ add volume ~ non-stripping

reducing excessive dandruff relieving other scalp conditions Medicated Shampoos reducing excessive dandruff relieving other scalp conditions some prescribed by physician quite strong could affect the color of tinted or lightened hair Remains on the scalp longer always read manufacturer’s instructions Healthinajiffy.co.uk

Active chelating agent-binds to metals-removes from the hair Clarifying Shampoos Active chelating agent-binds to metals-removes from the hair Helps retain moisture Makes hair more manageable used when buildup is evident (after swimming) Use prior to chemical services **also called chelate shampoos Viewpoints.com Matrixbeautiful.com

wash away excess oiliness prevents the hair from drying out Balancing Shampoos for oily hair and scalp wash away excess oiliness prevents the hair from drying out Southyarrahairdressingsupplies.com Amazon.com Searchfolica.com

wet shampoo uncomfortable hard to manage use a dry or powder shampoo Dry or Powder Shampoos wet shampoo uncomfortable hard to manage use a dry or powder shampoo picks up dirt and oils brush or comb it through the hair adds volume follow manufacturer’s instructions never use before a chemical service Shopaholicsdaily.com

Applying Dry Shampoos follow manufacturer’s directions apply scalp to the ends natural bristle brush ~ remove oil and dirt

Color-Enhancing Shampoos surfactant base with basic color pigments Similar to temporary color rinses attracted to porous hair slight color change removed with plain shampooing Beautystore.com

Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs prepared wig-cleaning solutions are available Add to the side bar: Liquid dry shampoos were used on hairpieces and wigs in the 1970’s. It is like a dry cleaning chemical cdn-www.expertvillage.com/showImage.aspx?site...

Shampooing Clients With Special Needs disabilities or wheelchair ~ will tell you how they prefer to be shampooed Options: ~ facing the shampoo bowl ~ bending forward ~ towel to protect their face

some will arrive freshly shampooed others need a dry shampoo always ask about their preferences make their comfort and safety a priority

Understanding Conditioners deposit protein or moisturizers Restore hair’s strength give body protect against possible breakage temporary remedy or cosmetic fix Can only repair hair to a certain extent Pauljulian.co.uk

grows long enough to be cut off restores luster shine manageability strength grows long enough to be cut off Matrixhaircare.co.u Hair-style-secrets-revealed.com

~ rinsed out after worked through Conditioners ~ reconstructor’s ~ hair masks Rinse-out *Finishing rinses or cream rinses ~ rinsed out after worked through ~ detangling Hairproducts.com Aurel.com davidanthonyhairstudio.com

~ deep penetrating conditioners ~15-30 minutes 2. Treatment or repair ~ deep penetrating conditioners ~15-30 minutes ~ restores protein and moisture *requires longer processing time ~ under a heated dryer for deeper penetration Pobox.ph

~ applied, not rinsed out 3. Leave-in ~ applied, not rinsed out Conditioners contain silicone along with: ~ humectants ~ absorb moisture ~ promote the retention of moisture Mysimon.com

Silicone ~ reflects light ~ hair appears shiny Other ingredients ~ reduce frizz ~ bulk up the hair Davidanthonyhairstudio.com

~reinforce the hair shaft ***can buildup ***heavy and oily Proteins ~ penetrate the cortex ~reinforce the hair shaft ***can buildup ***heavy and oily ***shampoo unnecessarily ***strips the hair protective oils ***creating a vicious cycle so… Senseof beauty.net Sallybeauty.com

***use a gentle shampoo ***little conditioner *** pass on to client’s

Healthy cuticle: ~ lies down smoothly ~ reflects light ~ shiny

Conditioners, detanglers, cream rinses smooth the cuticle ~ coat the hair shaft to achieve healthier looking hair The cortex ~ 90 % of the hair strand ~ penetrated with protein conditioners *reinforce the hair shaft from within ~ TEMPORARILY reconstruct the hair

NOT IN TEXTBOOK: FYI Instant Conditioners remain 1-5 minutes left in (“leave-in”) improve dry, brittle hair pH of 3.5-6.0 restores the pH ~ alkaline chemical treatment

Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are common ingredients in instant Add to the side bar in very small lettering: **more to add on next two slides Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are common ingredients in instant conditioners, work as pearlizing agents with a glossy finish This conditioner has both ingredients listed within the first 8 ingredients naturallycurly.com

Add to side bar: Lanolin derivatives are often included in conditioner formulas for fine hair because of their light molecular weight

The size of the molecules, the distribution Add: The size of the molecules, the distribution of molecular weights, how much salt the product contains, and how the protein is hydrolized, all determine a products effectiveness on the hair

Other Conditioning Agents *Spray-on thermal protectors ~ applied to hair prior to any thermal (heat) service *Scalp conditioners ~ cream base ~ soften and improve the health of the scalp www.beautybay.com/assets/uploaded/fck/Image/l... shop.harveynichols.com/.../xlarge/282095_1.jpg

*Medicated Scalp Lotions ~ promotes healing Add: control dandruff *Scalp Astringent Lotions ~ remove oil accumulation ~ after scalp treatment ~ before styling www.atmedica.com.sg/images/product_04.jpg www.strawberrynet.com/.../03335776701.jpg

Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of haircolor Add to the side bar: Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of haircolor Color rinses add temporary color to the hair www.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rou...

Not in Textbook: FYI Moisturizers (side bar notes later in P.P.) heavier and creamier need for test 15-30 minutes more penetrating longer staying power Quaternary ammonium compounds are included to attach to hair fibers provide longer-lasting protection

Not in Textbook:FYI Protein Conditioners Concentrated protein conditioners (brown liquid) increase hair diameter need for test adding body improve the tensile strength (stretching ability) temporarily closes split ends passes through the cuticle penetrates the cortex

replaces keratin improves appearance equalizes porosity increases elasticity not given immediately following a chemical treatment ~ may alter the desirable rearrangement of protein bonds formed by perms, relaxers or haircolor

Deep Conditioning Treatments ~ hair masks ~ conditioning packs concentrated protein ~ heavy cream base moisturizer equal degree of moisturizing and protein www.girlznight.co.uk/.../matrix/mtt18_b.jpg

Side bar notes: Moisturizers- heavier, creamier formulation-longer processing time. Concentrated protein-recognized by brown liquid appearance. Masks/packs-are chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in the heavy cream base of a moisturizer.

Draping Client draping is important Contributes to the clients safety and comfort Wet clothing/haircolor or perm solution on clothing…completely avoidable with a professional draping

Two types of draping: Shampoo draping or wet draping Chemical draping Wet draping-hair styling or haircutting services Textbook: one towel under cape/one towel over cape. Remove after shampoo and replace with a sanex strip. Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece on clothing-towel-cape

Chemical draping-haircolor/ lightening, permanent wave and chemical relaxer services. Textbook: towel under cape/one towel over cape, leave on for chemical service. Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece-towel-cape Drape for chemical service prior to applying chemicals.

FMD-is a shampoo required before a chemical product If shampoo is required…shampoo gently Before chemical service is to begin-redrape for a chemical service.

Three-Part Procedure Keeps track of what you are doing: pre-service Actual service Post-service

Part one: Pre-service procedure Organized step-by-step plan Cleaning and disinfecting tools, implements, and materials Setting up your station Meeting, greeting, and escorting your client

Part two: Service procedure Organized step-by-step plan for the actual service Part three: Organized step-by-step plan for caring for your client after the procedure Scheduling Payment process Prepare for next client

With each massage movement ~ place the hands under the hair Mrs. Mandato:The rest of the slides are Not in Textbook- Important With each massage movement ~ place the hands under the hair ~ use length of the fingers ~ balls of the fingertips ~ cushions of the palms ~ stimulate the muscles, nerves, and blood vessels of the scalp area www.glenaffric.info/images/jpeg/shona_5.jpg

Shampoo Procedures Good posture ~ protect against muscle aches ~ back strain ~ discomfort ~ fatigue ~ other physical problems that can result from performing shampoos

Flickr.com Agendamag.com Zero-flex.com

Correct posture ~ maintain an attractive image ~ always keep your shoulders back ~ avoid slumping over the client ~ hold abdomen in

Free-standing shampoo bowls ~ allow for healthier body alignment ~ help reduce strain on the back and shoulders Voip-forum.tmcnet.com

Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair drier and more fragile use a mild shampoo tends to tangle

use wide-toothed comb ~ gently remove tangles ~ beginning at the nape ~ work your way up use a conditioner if necessary relaxed or straightened hair needs moisturizing before drying