1. Common product ingredients
Chemistry
Common product ingredients

2. Common product ingredients
Alcohol
Volatile alcohol
Alkanolamines
Ammonia
Glycerin
Silicones
Volatile organic compounds

3. Products Alcohol Alkanolamines Ammonia Evaporating, colorless liquid
Obtained by the fermentation of starch, sugar & carbohydrates
Alkanolamines
Substances to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many products
Often used in place of ammonia due to less odor
Ammonia
Colorless gas w/pungent odor
Composed of hydrogen & nitrogen
Used to raise the pH in perms, haircoloring & lightening substances
Raising the pH allows the solution to penetrate the hair
Ammonium hydroxide & ammonium thioglycolate are examples of ammonia compounds that are used to raise the pH

4. Products Glycerin Silicones
Sweet, colorless, oily substance formed by the decomposition of oils, fats or fatty acids
Used as a solvent & moisturizer in skin & body creams
Silicones
Special type of oil used in hair conditioners & as water resistant lubricant for the skin
Less greasy & form a ‘breathable’ film that does not cause comedones (blackheads)

5. Products Volatile organic compounds
VOCs
Two or more elements combined chemically (compounds) that contain carbon (organic) & evaporate very quickly (volatile)
Most common used in hairsprays is SD alcohol
Most people are familiar w/ volatile such as
Isopropyl alcohol
Rubbing alcohol
Ethyl alcohol
Alcoholic beverages
Nonvolatile oils
Fatty alcohols
Cetyl alcohol
Cetearyl alcohol
Used in conditioners

6. Potential Hydrogen
pH is often discussed with regard to salon products, it is often one of the least understood properties
Understanding what pH is and how it affects the skin and hair is essential to understanding all chemical services

7. Potential Hydrogen “parts hydrogen “ or “ potential hydrogen “
pH originated from the French term pouvoir hydrogen or “hydrogen power”
Means the relative degree of acidity & alkalinity of a substance
Small p represents a quantity
Capital H represents the hydrogen ion H+
pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions

8. Potential Hydrogen pH scale is a logarithmic scale
This means that in a pH scale, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH
A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7
A change of two whole numbers indicates a change of 10 times 10, or a one hundredfold change
A pH of 9 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 7
Pure water, w/ a pH of 7, is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin, even though it has a neutral pH.
Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20%

9. Acids & alkalis Acids Alkalis
Owe their chemical reactivity to the hydrogen ion (H+)
pH below 7.0
Taste sour
Turn litmus paper from blue to red
Contract & harden the hair
Such as thioglycolic acid used in permanent waving
Alkalis
Owe their chemical reactivity to the hydroxide (OH -) ion
Terms alkali & base are interchangeable
pH above 7.0
Taste bitter
Turn litmus paper from red to blue
Feel slippery & soapy on the skin
Soften & swell the hair
Such as chemical drain cleaners & chemical hair relaxers

10. Acid-alkali neutralization reactions
Pure water (HO2O)
Naturally ionizes to create hydrogen (H+) ions & hydroxide ions (OH-)
When acids (H+) & alkalis (OH-) are mixed together in equal proportions
They neutralize each other to form water (H20)
Neutralizing shampoos & normalizing lotions used to neutralize hydroxide hair relaxers work by creating an acid-alkali neutralization reaction

11. Oxidation-Reduction (Redox) Reactions
Oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions are responsible for the chemical changes created by
Haircolors
Hair lighteners
Permanent wave solutions
Neutralizer
Chemical services would not be possible without oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions

12. Oxidation reactions Chemical reaction Combustion
Combines an element or compound w/ oxygen to produce an oxide
When oxygen is added to a substance, some heat is almost always produced
Chemical reactions that are characterized by or formed w/ the giving off of heat are called exothermic
Slow oxidation takes place in oxidation perms neutralizers
Combustion
Rapid oxidation of any substance accompanied by the production of heat & light
Lighting a match – no fire w/out oxygen

13. Reduction reactions Oxidized Reduced Reduction Oxidizing agent
When a substance is combined w/oxygen
Reduced
When oxygen is subtracted from a substance
Reduction
Chemical reaction
Oxidizing agent
Releases oxygen
Hydrogen peroxide example

14. Redox reactions Redox Permanent waving is an example of redox reaction
Contraction for reduction-oxidation
Oxidation & reduction always occur at the same time
Permanent waving is an example of redox reaction
Breaks certain bonds in the hair through a reduction reaction that adds hydrogen atoms to the hair
Hair is reduced and the perm solution is oxidized
Neutralizer then oxidizes the hair by removing the hydrogen atoms that were previously added by the perm solution
When hair is oxidized, the neutralizer is reduced
Oxidation is the result of either the addition of oxygen or the loss of hydrogen
Reduction is the result of either the loss of oxygen or the addition of hydrogen

15. Summary We have learned common product ingredients related in perming
The importance of a pH scale
Difference of oxidation & reduction reactions