1. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Shampoo and Condition Hair Chapter 8 Session 2

2. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Shampoo and condition hair At the end of this session you will have learned the following: The purpose and benefits of conditioning the hair. pH values of the hair and skin. Identify the different types of conditioning products available. Describe how to use different types of conditioning products. The effects of a scalp massage. Consider the aftercare advice given to the client after a conditioning service. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7

3. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Purpose of conditioning hair Conditioner is applied to: Smooth the cuticle layer Provide protection for the hair Improve handling and combing Make the hair look healthier Help the hair to resist external elements Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 30–32

4. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Conditioning and treating the hair Why do we condition and treat the hair? Improve the condition of the cuticle scales. Make temporary repairs to the cortex. Make the hair shine. Restore the pH value of the hair. Help improve scalp condition. Assist in treating some hair and scalp disorders. Complete Scenarios Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 30–32

5. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Benefits of using conditioners Smoothes the cuticle edges. Improves the handling and combing when the hair is both wet and dry. Temporarily repairs and fills damaged sites along the hairshaft or missing areas of the cuticle or cortex. Provides shine, lustre and sheen by flattening the cuticle. Creates flexibility and movement by locking in moisture. Balances the pH value of the hair back to a slightly acid 5.5.

6. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 pH scale Discuss pH values of the: Skin Hair Soapless shampoo Alkali perm solution Permanent colour Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 27–29 Complete Activity 1 pH scale

7. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 What does a conditioner contain? Typical ingredients of a conditioner base: Water – for suspending the following chemicals in solution Cetyl alcohol – an emollient and thickener for conditioning bases Stearyl alcohol – a emollient that will coat and smooth the cuticle PEG-40 – a spreading agent that will disperse the chemicals evenly along the hair DMDM hydantoin – a preservative that controls/prevents growth of microorganisms Stearalkonium chloride – anti-static agent, prevents fly-away hair Cetrimonium chloride – antiseptic conditioning agent

8. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 How does a conditioner work? Conditioners use a combination of chemical and electrical (ionic charged) properties to achieve their effects. They can balance and counteract the effects that the chemical services and physical processes have upon the hair. There are two ways in which they bond with the hair: – Absorption – This relies upon the natural state of the hair. – Attraction – This occurs after the hair has been shampooed. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 9–10

9. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of conditioner Surface conditioners: – Act on the cuticle only. – Contain vegetable oils, lanolin, fats and waxes, mild acidic compounds, citric or acetic acid based. Penetrating conditioners: – Act on both the cuticle and cortex. – Temporarily repair damage to the cortex. – Temporarily reduce porosity. – Sometimes called restructurants. – Contain substances including quaternary ammonium compounds, proteins, humectants, emollients. Refer to textbook Chapter 7 pages 10-17 Complete Activities 2 Surface conditioners and 3 Penetrating and scalp treatments

10. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of conditioner (cont.) Pre-perm and pre-colour treatments: – Even out porosity. – Assist service by evening absorption. – Help prevent excessive further damage. Post- perm and post-colour treatments: – Return the hair to a pH of around 5.5. – Remove any ‘free’ oxygen from the hair left after neutralising, colour or lightening service. – Sometimes called pH balancing conditioners or anti-oxidant conditioners. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 12–13

11. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Types of conditioner (cont.) Scalp treatments: – Specialist conditioners to remedy a range of scalp problems. – Sometimes referred to as ‘scalp-active’ conditioners. – Manufacturer’s instructions should be followed. – Particularly helpful for dry hair and scalp conditions, including dandruff. Complete Activity 3 Penetrating and scalp treatments Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 13–17

12. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Using a surface conditioner After shampooing, squeeze out excess moisture from the hair. Apply a small amount of conditioner into the palm of the hand and gently rub your hands together, applying the conditioner evenly to the hair. On longer hair, apply the conditioner to mid-lengths and ends first, working through the hair with the fingers, separating the lengths. Use a firm rotary massage or a petrissage massage movement to work the conditioner through the hair. The more damaged the hair is the longer the massage. On longer hair that is in poorer condition, you may need to comb the conditioner through the hair before rinsing. Refer to step-by-step video Shampoo and condition hair Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 10–11 and 33–36

13. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Using a surface conditioner (cont.) Finally, rinse all traces of conditioner away from the hair and lightly squeeze out the excess water. (If the entire product is not rinsed from the hair, it may act as a barrier to any following processes.) Place the towel around the hair, secure into place and move the client to a styling section. Place another fresh towel around the client’s shoulders and remove the damp one, squeezing out the excess moisture from the lengths. Disentangle the hair with a wide toothed comb until all tangles are free from the hair. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 10–11 & 33–36

14. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Using a penetrating conditioner The process for carrying out a penetrating conditioning treatment is the same as for a surface conditioner with three differences: 1.The conditioner is usually applied with a brush or applicator bottle. The hair should sectioned in four quarters by parting the hair from forehead to nape through the centre and from ear to ear over the crown. Secure each section with a sectioning clip. Using a tinting brush, make small sections and apply the conditioner to the hair (if using an applicator bottle use a tail comb to make the sections). Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 11–13 & 33–36

15. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Using a penetrating conditioner (cont.) 2.The conditioner may need to be left on the hair for a period of time (follow manufacturer’s instructions). 3.Heat can be used to assist penetration of the conditioner into the hair. The heat can be from a steamer or a hot towel. Care should be exercised when using heat to ensure it does not cause the client discomfort or burns their scalp. Using a tinting brush, make small sections and apply the conditioner to the hair (if using an applicator bottle use a tail comb to make the sections). Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 11–13 & 36–40

16. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Pre- and post-chemical services treatments Prepare the hair for the service to be undertaken. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Most pre-chemical services treatments are left on the hair. Post-chemical services treatments may need to be rinsed from the hair or left on the hair. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Careful application to ensure all the hair is evenly covered is important, particularly with pre-chemical services treatments. Many post-chemical services treatments may need to be left on the hair for a specified length of time. When using post-chemical services treatments do not massage the hair. Be gentle in order not to affect the result of the chemical service, e.g. perming. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 12–13

17. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Scalp treatments Usually carried out as for a penetrating conditioner. Application should ensure that the treatment covers all of the scalp. When treating dry scalp conditions the use of massage is beneficial. Massage movements would include effleurage and petrissage. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 13–14

18. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Scalp massage Scalp massage is a therapeutic method of manipulating the skin and muscle of the scalp. The effects are: 1. improved blood supply 2. removal of waste 3. improved muscle tone 4. stimulation of nerves 5. release of tension. Specialist techniques are popular in salons, particularly Indian Head Massage and Oriental Shiatsu Massage. Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 38–40

19. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Scalp massage (cont.) Scalp massage may not suit every client; always look for contra-indications when consulting with the client. Do not provide massage when: There are signs of cuts or abrasions on the scalp. There are signs of reddening from conditions such as eczema or skin sensitivity or skin allergies. The client feels unwell or has a headache. The client’s scalp is naturally oily – as this will stimulate the sebaceous glands further and make the hair even greasier. There are any other adverse symptoms such as infections or infestations.

20. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Carrying out a scalp massage Prepare the client with gown and towel and shampoo if necessary. Comb or brush the hair to remove tangles. Using effleurage first, move from the front hairline in an even pressure down to the nape several times. Next use a petrissage movement. Apply lightly but firmly rotate on the scalp all over the head. Maintain an even pressure and balance without exerting too much pressure. Finish with effleurage again to release the pressure of blood stimulated around the scalp during the previous movements. Allow the client to sit quietly for a while to enjoy the benefits of the massage process. Complete Activity 4 Massage movements Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 33–38

21. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Aftercare advice Providing a full professional service includes advice to the client on how to manage their hair between visits to the salon. This should include:  How to brush and comb the hair including the proper tools to use.  How to shampoo the hair correctly at home.  What products they should use and how to use them (this will be a retail opportunity to recommend the products used for the service). Complete Interactive quiz Refer to textbook, Chapter 7, pages 40–44

22. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Shampoo and condition hair Revisit lesson aims: The purpose and benefits of conditioning the hair. PH values of the hair and skin. Identify the different types of conditioning products available. Describe how to use different types of conditioning products. The effects of a scalp massage. Consider the aftercare advice given to the client after a conditioning service. Complete Test your knowledge