1. SHAMPOOING
AND
SCALP CARE

2. Scalp Treatments Scalp Care and Massage
Two Basic Requirements for healthy scalp
Cleanliness and stimulation
May be performed 2 ways:
Either before a shampoo if scalp condition is apparent
Or during the shampoo
Should be given with continuous and even motion that will:
Stimulate the scalp
Relax the client

3. Things to know
The difference between a relaxation and treatment massage
The products you use make the difference
Make sure you are following the manufacturer’s directions when a special treatment is used
For simple relaxation, any conditioner may be used
It is this extra service that can:
add to the clients bill OR
keep them coming back to you for that added complimentary scalp massage with their shampoo!

4. Important Things to Know
Scalp massages and treatments should only be performed when:
A client’s intake form has been reviewed
If the client has time
Any scalp sensitivities
After you have discussed any medical conditions that may have shown up on the intake form
Note any Contraindications
High blood pressure, diabetes, circulatory issues

5. What the Client Likes/Doesn’t Like
Need to know if the client even likes massage
How much pressure to use/not use
Whether the client likes talking during a massage
REMEMBER: When in doubt, don’t include a massage in your service!

6. Dry Hair and Scalp Treatments
Used when there is a deficiency of natural oil on the scalp and hair
You should select scalp products that are:
Moisturizing and emollient ingredients
Avoid using:
strong soaps
Products using a mineral- or sulfonated-oil base
Greasy preparations
Lotions with high alcohol content
A Scalp Steamer is used
Resembles a hooded dryer

7. Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
Caused by overactive sebaceous glands
You should:
Manipulate the scalp and knead it to increase blood circulation to the surface
Any hardened sebum in the pores will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing
To normalize the function of these glands, excess sebum should be flushed out

8. Antidandruff Treatment
Dandruff is the result of Malassezia- a fungus
Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions contain antifungal agents
Control dandruff by suppressing the growth of Malassezia
Moisturizing scalp treatments soften and loosen scales that crust and stick to scalp
Good to know: Because fungi can be resistant additional and frequent treatments may be needed

9. Hair Brushing
If done correctly, will stimulate the blood circulation to the scalp
Helps remove dirt, dust, and hair-spray build up
Gives added shine
You should include thorough brushing as part of every shampoo and scalp treatment
Brushing also allows the stylist to examine the scalp for abrasions and infections

10. There are 2 Exceptions to Brushing
Do Not brush or irritate the scalp before giving a chemical service
Single or double-process haircolor
Highlighting
Most chemical relaxers
Some temporary and semipermanent haircolor
Do not brush if the scalp is irritated
Make sure you’re not irritating the scalp when you are shampooing

11. Types of Brushes
Most highly recommended hairbrushes are those made from natural bristles
Natural bristles have tiny overlapping layers or scales
Clean and add luster to the hair
Brushes made with nylon bristles are shiny and smooth; they are more suitable for hairstyling

12. Understanding Shampoo
Shampoo is a good time to analyze the client’s scalp!
If you have an assistant shampoo, make sure they alert you to any problems you need to know about
Some things to check for are:
Dry, dehydrated hair
Thinning of the hair
Abnormal flaking
Open wounds or scalp irritations
Tick or lice infestation
REMEMBER: Infectious Diseases Should Never Be Treated In A Salon

13. Selecting the Proper Shampoo
Should support the health of the hair
Be formulated for specific hair-types; Know whether the hair is:
natural, color-treated, fine and limp or coarse or wiry
Know your clients allergies if any from the intake form and make sure those ingredients are not in the shampoo
Is the hair and/or scalp oily, normal, dry or chemically processed?
A client can have oily scalp with dry hair

14. At Home Use
If the client uses the right product at home, it will make a difference in how the hair behaves, moves and feels
This is your chance to:
educate your clients on proper hair care
make a sale
keep the client happy between services
The wrong products can make a great haircut look bad
Can negatively affect the client’s opinion of you
Can affect the outcome of a chemical service

15. The pH Scale
The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a pH scale and ranges from 0-14
This range determines whether a solution is alkaline or acidic
pH of a neutral solution (7) is neither alkaline or acidic

16. Alkaline or Acidic
A shampoo that is acidic will have a pH ranging from 0 to 6.9
Shampoos that are alkaline will have a pH of what?
The more alkaline a shampoo is, the stronger and harsher it is
A high pH can make the hair dry, brittle, and porous
Can cause fading in color treated hair
Acidic types match the ideal pH more closely

17. The Chemistry of Water Water is the most important element on Earth
Known as the Universal Solvent because it can dissolve more substances than any other solvent known
Fresh Water is purified by 3 ways:
By Sedimentation—matter sinking to the bottom
By Filtration– water passing through a porous substance like filter paper or charcoal
Boiling water degrees F (110 degrees C)
Distillation is when water is heated to become a vapor and the purified vapor is collected
Water is readily used and important to cosmetology

18. How soft is your water?
Depending on the types and amounts of minerals in your water will determine:
Is the Water Hard or Soft?
Soft Water is rainwater
Chemically softened
Contains only a small amount of minerals
Allows soap and shampoo to lather freely
Hard Water often well-water
Contains minerals
These minerals reduce the ability of soaps and shampoos to later freely
May also alter the results of hair coloring
A water treatment process can soften hard water

19. Why Do We Need to Know This?
Why is it important for stylists to know what type of water the salon has?
Why would a stylist need to know what type of water a client has at home?
How do you think the hardness or softness of water can affect a client’s experience with a shampoo that you recommend?

20. Shampoo
In order to make the best decision for your customer, you need to know what shampoo is made of…….
Many shampoos have ingredients in common and it’s the small differences that make one better than another

21. What’s in your ‘Poo? Water is the main ingredient in most Surfactants
Will usually be the first ingredient
Usually it is purified or deionized water
Water that had impurities like calcium and magnesium, and they have been removed
Surfactants
The second main ingredient
Known as the detergent
The cleansing or surface acting ingredient
Moisturizers
Aid in giving moisture as well as keeping moisture in
Common additive along with:
Oil, protein, preservatives, foam enhancers, and perfume

22. Surfactants A surfactant molecule has 2 ends
Hydrophilic
Water-attracting head
Lipophilic
Oil-attracting tail
During the shampoo, the Hydrophilic Head attracts the water and Lypophilic Tail attracts oil, dirt and deposits…….
This causes a Push/Pull effect that causes the oil, dirt and deposits to roll up into little balls……
These balls are then lifted off the hair by the water rinse and washed away!

24. Types of Shampoo pH-Balanced Conditioning Medicated
Balanced to the pH of the skin and hair (4.5 to 5.5)
Uses the addition of citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid to balance
Experts believe that acid pH is essential to preventing excessive dryness and hair damage
Helps to close the hair cuticle
Recommended for color-treated
Conditioning
Also known as moisturizing shampoo
Designed to make the hair appear shiny & improve manageability
Protein and biotin are two examples of the agents that boost shampoos
Restore moisture & elasticity, strengthen the hair shaft, and add volume
Nonstripping—do not remove artificial color from the hair
Medicated
Contains special ingredients
effective for reducing dandruff and relieving scalp conditions
Some must be prescribed by a physician
Can be very strong and affect color
May sometimes have to be left on the hair a lil longer to work

25. Clarifying Balancing Dry Contains active chelating agent
binds to metals (i.e. iron and copper) and removes them
Also contains an equalizing agent
Enriches hair, helps restore moisture and make hair more manageable
Use after swimming and before chemical services
Balancing
For oily hair and scalp
Washes away excess oiliness
Prevents the hair from drying out
Dry
Used for elderly or disabled clients
Also known as Powder Shampoo
Can be applied at the stylists station
Comes in powder or spray form
Applied directly to the hair from scalp to ends
Brushed through with a natural-bristle brush

26. For Hairpieces and Wigs
Color Enhancing
Created by combining the surfactant base with a basic color pigment
Similar to temporary color rinse
Is attracted to porous hair
Result is only slight color change
Will remove with normal shampoo
Used to brighten, to add slight hint of color, to eliminate unwanted color tones
For Hairpieces and Wigs
Prepared wig cleaning solution is available

27. Shampooing Clients with Special Needs
Clients with disabilities may require different handling
They may come with their hair already clean
If you have to wash them and they are wheelchair bound:
They choose to stay in their chair:
Have them tilt their hair forward, facing the bowl with a towel covering their face
Remove the shampoo chair and shampoo them as normal if the wheelchair is the correct height

28. Understanding Conditioner
Conditioner helps to restore the hair’s strength, give body and protect the hair against possible breakage
Temporary remedy
Can only repair to a certain extent
Cannot improve the quality to new growth
Available in 3 basic types
Rinse-out
Treatment or repair
Leave-in

29. Other conditioners are:
Detangling rinses
Cream rinses
Deep Conditioners or Masks
Chemical mixture of concentrated protein and intensive moisturizer
Penetrates the cuticle layer
Spray-on thermal protectors
Applied before any thermal service to protect the hair
Scalp conditioners
Usually found in cream base
Used to soften and improve the health of the scalp
Medicated scalp lotions
Promotes healing of the scalp
Scalp astringent lotions
Remove oil accumulation the scalp
Used after a scalp treatment, before styling

30. What’s it made of???? Most contain: silicone
Reflects light and makes the hair appear shiny
Moisture-binding humectants
Absorb moisture or promote the retention of moisture
Other ingredients
Reduce frizz or bulk up the hair (volume)
Since the hair cuticle is made up of layers or overlapping scales:
A healthy cuticle lies down smoothly and reflects light
Conditioners coat the hair to give it the appearance of being shiny and smooth!

31. Draping Proper draping is important in the salon Two Types: Shampoo
Sometimes called wet draping
Used for a client getting a shampoo and style or shampoo and haircut
2 terry cloth towels
one underneath the cape and one over
After shampoo, both towels are removed and replaced with a neck stip
Chemical Service
Used for chemical services with no shampoo
One underneath the cape and one over

32. Read your procedure pages and the extra boxes in the chapter!!
Know:
The Pre-Service Procedure
Important points about Dry Scalp Treatments
The proper techniques for shampooing
When to recommend or sell products to a client (at
what point in the service?)