Manicuring Module 25

Introduction Long polished nails were a mark of distinction between aristocrats and laborers Luxury for very few The biggest/fastest growing services in salon

Manicure Latin Manus = hand Cura = care Artful treatment and care of the hands and nails Write in on page 850

Purpose of Manicures Improve the appearance of the hands and their nails

Why Study Manicuring? Knowledge of the structure of the nail (Highlight the bullet points) Knowledge of the structure of the nail Knowledge of the composition of the cosmetics used Ability to give a manicure/pedicure efficiently and effectively Ability to care for the client’s manicuring problems or concerns

Knowledge to be able to distinguish between disorders that may be treated in the salon and those diseases that must be treated by a physician A thorough awareness of the procedures involved in sanitation and disinfection

Adhere to State and Government Regulations Scope of Practice (SOP) List of services legally allowed to perform in your state May lose license if illegal services are performed Legally liable if client is injured

Occupational Safety and Health Administration Provides guidelines for protecting cosmetologists from chemicals that can affect your health Hypersensitivity reactions

OSHA Hazard Communication Standard requires ventilation for chemical services Personal protective equipment (PPE)

Work with Nail Technology Tools Equipment: Permanent tools used Do not need to be replaced unless not in good repair PP 851 – 855 “Did You Know” Boxes PP 853 Highlight name of each piece of equipment

Disinfection Container Large enough to hold enough liquid to cover several service sets (sets of tools to be used in a service) After removed from container must be rinsed dried and stored properly

Disinfectants must NEVER touch skin! Use tongs or tweezers to remove Wear gloves!!!! Can be irritating to skin

Paraffin Petroleum byproduct Sealing properties Added for extra charge

Ventilation System Chemicals can affect a worker’s health Dust, odors and vapors can affect breathing and respiratory health Symptoms are not seem right away Months/years to see/feel affects Fans/windows not a ventilation system Breathing zone – 2 foot sphere around head/face

Figure 25 – 11a Inside a source-capture ventilation system Figure 25 – 11b Portable 2 stage carbon filter ventilation system

Implements Must be disinfected, sanitized or disposed of after use Small enough to fit into a disinfectant container PP 857 – 859 “Did You Know” Boxes – PP 856, 858 State Regulatory Alert – PP 856

Sanitation for Implements (write on PP 856) Wash with soap and warm water, rinse Metal implements must be completely immersed in container filled with an approved disinfectant. (Follow manufacturers’ instructions for required time). Rinse and dry thoroughly with clean towels Store Properly - Follow state regulations for storage

Highlight name of each piece of equipment Multiuse – reusable – can be properly cleansed and disinfected after use Single-use – disposable – cannot be cleaned and disinfected – must be thrown out

Multiuse Implements Metal pusher – used to gently scrape cuticle tissue from natural nail plate Improper/careless use can cause microscopic trauma or injury Microtrauma – tiny, often unseen openings in the skin – leads to infection Nail nippers – used to carefully trim away DEAD skin around the nail

Single-use Implements Wooden pusher Used to remove cuticle tissue from nail plate To clean under free edge -to apply products

Materials Supplies used that must be replaced for each client Highlight name of each material Supplies used that must be replaced for each client PP 859 – 861 Caution Box – PP 861

Gloves PPE – personal protection equipment Protect from exposure to microbes OSHA recommends nitrile gloves for better protection from chemicals

Abrasive Files Grit – the roughness or smoothness of the file Lower the number the rougher the grit and the more aggressive its action The higher the number the more smooth

Lower grit abrasives Less than 180 grit Aggressive - quickly reduce thickness of any surface Produce deeper & more visible scratches Use with caution

File prepping – rub another file across the edge to remove sharp edge Medium grit files 150 – 180 grit 180 grit used to shorten and shape natural nails

Fine grit 2 way or 3 way buffer 240 grit and higher designed for buffing, polishing Removing very fine scratches 2 way or 3 way buffer Creates shine

Professional Nail Products Know how to properly use Know what ingredients What it does Proper storage Remove from containers correctly Highlight name of each product

Acetone – colorless, inflammable liquid, miscible with water Soap Used to clean cosmetologist’s & client’s hands Infection control tool during pre-service hand washing procedure Acetone – colorless, inflammable liquid, miscible with water

OSHA – DO NOT pour used chemicals down drain Throw on ground

Nail Creams Nail Oils Barrier products Designed to seal & hold subdermal moisture Nail Oils Designed to absorb into nail plate Increase flexibility Soften and moisturize

Cuticle removers Deigned to loosen and dissolve dead tissue on the nail plate High pH value – caustic irritating to the skin 2 - 5% sodium or potassium hydroxide Added glycerin Used according to manufacture's directions!!!

Nail bleach Designed to apply to nail plate/under free edge Remove yellow surface discolorations or stains Contain hydrogen peroxide Wear gloves while bleaching nails

Gel polish Base Coat Lasts 10 – 21 days Natural nails Creates colorless layer Helps prevent polish from yellowing or discoloring nails

Nail hardeners Protein hardener Improve surface hardness or durability of weak/thin nails Protein hardener Clear polish and hardener Large molecules that cannot absorb into nail plate

Other nail hardeners Hardener ingredients Contain reinforcing fibers (nylon) Hardener ingredients methlylene glycol creates bridges or crosslinks between keratin strands Makes nail plate stiffer More resistant to bending & breaking Non-irritating to skin

Useful for thin weak nail plates If signs of excessive brittleness or splitting, discolorations, of nail bed or adverse (bad) reactions stop using

Learn the Necessary Components to Perform the Basic Manicure Basic manicure is the foundation of all nail technology services Procedure should take 30 – 40 minutes 3 part procedure Pre-service Service Post-service

Hand Washing Prevent the spread of communicable disease Before and after each client Clients wash too “Did You Know” Box – PP 867

The Manicure Table Messy table creates a bad impression Neat table will help client feel confident about your abilities Follow all rules of sanitation and disinfection Do not ask client to sit at dirty table PP 881 - 882

Client Consultation Talk to the client Complete a client health record and service and product card Discuss client’s general health, lifestyle, needs, and services to be offered Use your knowledge to select the most appropriate service

“Focus on” – PP 868 Analysis: Recommendations: Information-gathering Ask questions Touch the skin, nails – educate the client Recommendations: Explain benefits and results of the recommended service (s) Home care products and how to use

Portray yourself in a professional manner Focus on client Look directly at client while speaking in a tone that demonstrates integrity and confidence Support your recommendations with facts and information Be friendly and helpful

Discussing client’s general health Diabetic Carefully file and push Pterygium NEVER nip cuticles Heal slowly easily get infections Damage can be deadly if skin is cut or scrapped Arthritis - Hands held gently Circulatory disease – massage very carefully if at all

(Write in on PP 868) Contraindicated – avoiding a procedure or condition that may produce undesirable side effects Contraindication – condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures to prevent undesirable effects

Choosing a nail shape Shape of client’s hands Length of fingers Shape of cuticles Nails should be shaped to mirror the shape of the cuticle Type of work client does People who work with their hands require shorter nail length

Square nail Round nail Straight across the free edge No rounding at edges Round nail Slightly tapered Extend just a bit past the tip of the finger Common choice for men

Oval nail Pointed nail Squoval nail Ideal shape Thin delicate nail Tapered somewhat longer than usual to enhance the slender appearance of the hand Squoval nail Extend only slightly past fingertip Nail tip rounded off Square nail with ends rounded

Handling Blood During a Manicure (write in on PP 889) Put on gloves Apply Pressure Stanch Bleeding Complete service Discard used materials Clean table and disinfect implements Remove gloves and wash hands

Finishing the nails Nail strengthener Base coat Colored polish Top coat

Basic Manicure Procedure Pre-service sanitation – PP 880 - 883 Basic Manicure Procedure – PP 886 - 889

Post-service procedures – PP 884 - 885

Men’s Manicure Conservative Square or round shape Clear matte or dull finish

Hand and Arm Massage Keeps the hands flexible Well-groomed Smooth PP 890 - 892

General Movements Effleurage Petrissage Tapotement Strokes in which hands glide over an area of the body Petrissage Kneading is lifting, squeezing and pressing the tissue Tapotement Rapid tapping or striking motions

Purpose of massage is inducement of relaxation Vibration Continuous shaking movement Friction Various strokes that press 1 layer of tissue over another (deep rubbing) Purpose of massage is inducement of relaxation Firm but gentle and slow rhythmic movement

Spa Manicure (PP 873 – 874) Relaxing massage Exfoliation Check for allergies Distinctive names that describe the treatment “Did You Know” PP 873

Theme Manicures Waterless manicures

Aromatherapy 1870’s Essential oils Requires study and training

Paraffin Wax Manicure (PP 875-877) Traps moisture Heat opens pores Exfoliates dead skin cells Increases blood circulation Petroleum by product Sealing properties Holds moisture

125 ° - 130 ° Use only approved heaters Will not harm artificial or natural nails Plastic bag application Cheesecloth application Single-use commercial gloves

Nail Art PP 877 – 878 French Manicure Smile Line Color fading Color blocking Marbleizing

French Manicure Free edge is polished, tipped or sculpted in an opaque color Tropical – more bold colors on free edge

Hot Oil/ Conditioning Oil Manicure (write on PP 879) Heated creams/oils Beneficial for ridged or brittle nails Nail biters –keeps cuticles soft

Nail Problems (write on PP 883) Hangnails – loose fringe of skin left around nail Callus – thickened skin – softened with creams and lotions Stains – may be bleached or using slightly dampening pumice powder to buff

(write PP 877) Booth Manicure Electric Manicure Given while another service is given Electric Manicure Portable device operated by a small motor Read directions and receive training before using!