Presentation on theme: "By David Sheil Wood manufacturing and finishing 2013."— Presentation transcript:
By David Sheil Wood manufacturing and finishing 2013.
Introduction Restoration can be as simple as light cleaning to remove disfiguring dirt or grime, such as on the surface of a painting, or it may include near complete rebuilding or replacement, as might be the case with old furniture.
The main goal of restoration is to "restore" the original appearance or functionality of a piece. There is a lot of difference between restoring and repairing. You may achieve functionality with a repair, but restoring an item properly is an art-form. Finishes may be stripped and redone, but it is essential that the original form is retained if possible.
Repairing Scratches You can repair furniture scratches, and dents in a number of ways. If the piece you're repairing has a lot of nicks and scratches in it use pigmented oil stain, to repair them. Use this technique when you don't want to render scratched areas invisible, but instead are willing to allow the furniture to have an antique, distressed look. If the finish is free from wax, dirt, and polish use a pigmented oil stain of the appropriate colour. Apply the stain to damaged areas with an artist's touch-up brush. Wipe off any excess with a dry rag, and then apply finish over the damaged areas.
Water Stains Water and other kinds of liquid can cause ring stains in finish and wood. Shellac finishes are more prone to this problem than other types. Stains that are in the finish are usually white, while stains that have gone through the finish and into the wood will appear dark or black. Dark water stains can't be removed without refinishing, and even then they are difficult to get out. You may be able to remove the finish, bleach the stain, and refinish the surface. White water stains, or those still in the finish, can often be removed without stripping the finish. The longer the stain is in the finish, the deeper it will penetrate into the surface. The deeper moisture penetrates into the surface, the harder the stain is to remove, so it's important to remove water stains as soon as possible.
Apply amalgamator to a pad Use a soft cotton rag to make an applicator pad. Ball or roll up the rag in a comfortable size to hold in one hand. Smooth out the part of the rag that will make contact with the finish surface. Apply amalgamator to the pad, allowing it to soak into the rag. Disperse the amalgamator Tap the padding rag into the palm of your other hand, causing the amalgamator to spread into the rag until the surface of the rag is damp, but not wet.
Pad the stain Pad over the surface of the finish on top of the stain with a pendulum-like stroke in the direction of the wood grain. Briefly touch the padding rag to the stain surface, and then lift it off, keeping the pad in motion when it's in contact with the finish surface. The water stain may not immediately disappear, so continue to pad the area, adding more amalgamator to the rag if necessary. The trick is to keep your padding rag damp enough to soften the finish but not wet enough to cut through the finish to the wood surface. Blend-in the repair area When you finished to remove the water stains, allow the area to dry. Next, rub the finish down with #0000 steel wool to blend the sheen. Paste-wax the finish if necessary.
How to fix raised or bubbled veneers 1. Using an iron Put your iron on a medium setting and lay a piece of paper over the bubble to protect the wood. If the bubble is severe and feels brittle, run a little water over it to soften it during heating and prevent it drying out causing shrinkage or splitting. Place the tip of the iron on the paper and move it around, pushing the bubble flat. Keep this up for two or three minutes until you feel the veneer is heated up and re-dissolved the glue. Even if glue is present, once the iron is removed the veneer can tend to lift again before the glue has time to set and stick. To overcome this, place a flat block of wood or a second cold iron over the repair and press down hard until the area is cooled.
2. Removing and Replacing If a bubble has already broken open then there is a good chance there is dust underneath the veneer. This will make it impossible for any remaining glue to stick the veneer back. The veneer must be removed from over the bubble and the dirt glue and dust cleaned out. To do this, the veneer should be forced open using a knife and then lifted off the top. It is better to break the veneer away rather then cut it away with a sharp knife, because when you have to stick the pieces of veneer back eventually, they will make a more natural joining. Once the veneer has been removed, scrape away the old deposits with a small knife or thin chisel and then wash the area thoroughly with a brush with white spirit to remove any wax or dirt. Do the same to the back of the veneer and allow to dry. Once you have thoroughly cleaned and dried all surfaces, iron the veneer into place as before.
Conclusion Furniture restoration is an enjoyable practical craft. It does not require expensive tools or materials and can be carried out almost anywhere. Whether you wish to renovate an old chair which has been gathering dust in the attic for years or pick out a second hand piece of furniture and restore it at a minimum cost, furniture restoration is ideal. Thank you for your time I would be happy to answer any of your questions.