7Book: Accentuate a particular haircut 5. . CorrectiveBook: Accentuate a particular haircutNote: Either list can be used on the test, your choiceaheadofourtimesalons.com/images/gallery/716-A..
8F Y I :“Chlorine green” hair is caused by copper deposits from the water, that grab onto the hair. Only very light hair shows this reaction.Use a demineralizing shampoo, like Alternate Action and placeunder a dryer or use bakingsoda and water to removedeposits.media.onsugar.com/.../GreenHair.larger.jpg
9Hair Facts Hair Structure Knowing how products affect the hair will allow you to make the best product choices for your client.Hair StructureQuick review of the structure of the hair.
10Q. List two points about the cortex. Q. What is the outer most layer of the hair called?Q. What is the purpose of the cuticle?Q. List two points about the cortex.Q. How much of a role does the medula play in haircoloring?
11Q. Why is texture, density and. porosity factors we must Q. Why is texture, density and porosity factors we must consider when performing color services?Texture: individual hair strandCoarse, medium, fineMelanin is distributed differently-refer to Figure 21-3
12Has average response to haircolor products Fine hair textureTakes color fasterCan look darkerMedium hair textureHas average response to haircolor products
13Can take longer to process Coarse hair textureCan take longer to process
14Density-hair per square inch thin, medium, thick-denseNeeds to be considered when applying haircolorQ. How would this matter, and what do we need to do?
15Porosity-ability to absorb liquid Porous hair accepts color faster~ darker than expected end resultQ. Explain the step needed to do the test for porosity
16Resistant hair (low porosity) ~ requires more processing time Normal porosity (average)~ processes in an average amount of timeOverporous (high)~ takes color quickly~ fades quickly
17Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone Q. What is the 1st thing Mrs. K and I do prior to creating a color formula?
18Two types of melanin in the cortex: Eumelanin-black and brownPheomelanin-blond and redNatural hair color contains both (Mixed melanin)wwww.pgbeautyscience.com/assets/images/researc...ww.pgbeautyscience.com/.../v2/Hair-color-2.jpg
19Contributing PigmentKnown as “undertone”, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during permanent color or lightening processThe darker the natural level,the more intense the contributing pigment
20Haircoloring modifies this pigment to create new pigment Must be taken into consideration before the haircolor selection is madeHaircoloring modifies this pigment to create new pigment3.bp.blogspot.com/.../killercutscolors552.jpg
21Saturation, density, or concentration of a color The Level SystemLevel is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darknessSaturation, density, or concentration of a colorcdn-write.demandstudios.com/.../90/3/4893.jpg
22Level system*use to determine the lightness or darkness of colorsArranged on a scale of 1-1 0-1 being the darkest (black)-10 being the lightest(pale blonde)
23Add: Value-unit of measurement to evaluate lightness or darkness
24Identifying Natural Level First step in haircolor serviceValuable tool-color wheelUse haircolor swatch bookDemonstrate the four stepsRead: Here’s a Tip
25Natural Hair Color Levels 10-Lightest Bl.Natural Hair Color Levels(this is the number system Mrs. Kucas and I follow. Page 632 is a little different)9- Lt. Blonde8- Med. Blonde7- Dk. Blonde6- Lt. Brown5- Med. Brown4- Dk. Brown3- V. Dk. Br2- Black1- Blue Black
26Gray Hair Associated with aging ~ heredity Solid or blended ~ “salt and pepper”Requires special attention in formulating
27Color Theory Color is the visible spectrum of light Human eye only sees red, green, or blue, or other shades
28Before applying color products *have an understanding of color theory***All are developed by primary and secondary color
37Predominance of blue*cool colorsPredominance of red and or yellow*warm colorsBlue is the strongest and the only cool primary color*brings depth or darkness to any color
38Red is the medium primary color * Red added to blue-based colors ~ appear lighterRed added to yellow~ become darker
39All three primary colors present in equal proportions Yellow is the weakest of the primary colorsyellow added to other colors~ lighter and brighterAll three primary colors present in equal proportions* the color is brown
40Secondary ColorsObtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colorsGreen=blue and yellowOrange=red and yellowViolet=blue and red
41Primary and Secondary Colors Refer to the color wheel
42Tertiary ColorsIntermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color with its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts
44Q. Why is it necessary to fully understand the law of color? A. Natural-looking haircolor is made up of a combination of primary colors, secondary colors, and tertiary colors
45Complementary ColorsAre a primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheelComplimentary colorinclude blue andorange, red andgreen, yellow and violet and…
46They neutralize each other What do we mean neutralize each other?Complementary colors are used to:Neutralize or refine unwanted tones in the hairHelp you choose thecorrect color*review referenceguide page 635
47Blue-orange=almost Halloween Mrs. Kucas’ great ideaIt’s easy to remember the complimentary colors:Green-red=ChristmasBlue-orange=almost HalloweenYellow-violet=Easterdecorvillage.files.wordpress.com/2007/11/pump...
48Tone or Hue of ColorAdd: Describes the warmth or coolness of a color
49Answers-which color to use for clients desired result Tone or Hue of ColorAnswers-which color to use for clients desired resultWarm, cool, or neutral(or tonality)
50Warm tones look lighter *gold, orange, red, yellow Use with clients: *auburn, amber, copper, strawberry, bronzeEx. Our tube says6 RO=level 6 with red-orange toneTell client: dark strawberry blonde
51Cool tones look deeper*blue, green, and violetUse with clients:*smoky, ash, drab, or platinumEx. 4B Level 4 brown with a blue tone
52Natural tones (also called neutral tones) are warm tones ~ described as sandy or tani.ehow.com/.../Articles/ /162460_Full.jpg
53Intensity-strength of a colors Add: tonality Described as soft, medium, or strongColor intensifiersAdd: color additivesare tones added to a haircolor formula to intensify the results (show our intensifiers
54Base color is the predominant tone of a color Identified by a number and letter# indicates the levelLetter indicates the toneEx. 6GLevel 6-dark blondeWith a gold base
55When selecting formula=know what tone the client likes and dislikes *** client will say they do not want to see red-in many cases this would include gold (caramel)Neutral base colors are used to cover gray hair.
56Types of Haircolor Four categories: Temporary Semipermanent DemipermanentPermanentNon-oxidativeOxidative
57Add next to nonoxidative: Vegetable, flowers, herbs, salts of heavy metal(veg. tints, metallic dyes, compound dyes)
58Patch test required for all, except temporary color Q. What is the purpose of a patch test?Q. Is a patch test required prior to using lightener (bleach)?Q. What wording does the Cosmetology State Law give us that requires us to patch test prior to aniline derivative tints?
59Click on “a severe reaction to hair dye following sensitization from PPD temporary tattoo”
60All haircolor products and lighteners contain: ~ a developer (oxidizing agent) ~an alkalizing ingredient
61Alkalizing ingredient-ammonia or an ammonia substitute is to: Raise cuticle of the hair fiber so tint can penetrate the cortexIncrease the penetration of tints within the hair (oxidation reaction)Trigger the lightening action of the peroxide
62The next paragraph said differently: The alkalizing agent:- opens the cuticle- the peroxide enters into the cortex- breaks up the melanin (lighteners)- permanent color does this to a lesser degree, then replaces it with new color
63Temporary Color Neutralize yellow hair or unwanted tones Q. What tone would we use for this?Q. What happens when a tone (like blue) is used and there is no complimentary tone (yellow) ?Just ask Mr. Herr !!!!!
64Top: Several applications of lightener, then toned with violet Bottom: used blue to counter the yellowc1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/24/l_c57...
65Pigment molecules are large *prevent penetration the cuticle layerCoating action onlyRemoved by shampooingNonoxidation colorPhysical change not a chemical change
66No patch test requiredTemporary haircolors are available in a variety of colors and products:Color rinses applied weekly to shampooed hair, then styledQ. If this product only coats the hair, how can it last for a week?
67Colored mousses and gels Hair mascara/crayonsfor dramatic effects(or to hide grayregrowth)teendiariesonline.comcolormousse.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/image...s2.thisnext.com/media/160x160/FF6EA543-Cover%...
72*fades with each shampoo Lasts about 4-6 shampoos (used to be 4-6 weeks)Q. What do you think caused this change?
73Does not lighten the hair Only deposits colorDoes not lighten the hair***No significant color change
74Does not require maintenance of new growth Far more gentle Requires a patch testUsed right out of the bottleecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wDY7LPOcL._S...
75*opens the cuticle for color penetration Add: (in very small writing)no ammonia*if mixed with an activator develops the color pigments within the formula (not in hair)*swells the cortex*opens the cuticle for color penetrationteenshairstyle.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/...
76Demipermanent Haircolor No-lift deposit only haircolor***Lasts longer than semiAdd: penetrate the hair shaftLess alkaline*mixed with low volume developerWellaprofessionals.co.uk
77ADD: No ammonia or low ammonia formula Uses alkalizing agents other than ammonia*oxidizing agents other than peroxideNot necessarily less damagingIf milder, active ingredient is lower4.bp.blogspot.com/.../s400/SHADES.png
78Introduces client to color service Add: *vivid color results *reverse highlightingBlend or cover grayRefreshes fadedpermanent colorColor correctionsRestoring natural colorz.hubpages.com/u/740838_f260.jpg
79Deepens or creates a change in tone Usually used on cold shaft and ends during a regrowth touch-upRefreshes previously colored hairAvailable in: gel, cream, or liquidRequires a patch testCgi.ebay.phus.lorealprofessionnel.com/img/identical/nav/...
80Lighten and deposit color at the same time *single process Permanent HaircolorLighten and deposit color at the same time*single process*more alkalineMixed with a higher volume developerUsed to match, lighten and cover gray
87Removes natural pigment *through lightening Permanent color:Best for covering grayhairRemoves natural pigment*through lighteningAt the same time adds artificial colorResults=natural-looking colorimages.teamsugar.com/.../43_2007/AlbaHaur.jpg
90Add:High-lift tinting-single process, higher degree of lightening action and minimal amount of color deposit
91Review the 4 haircolor categories: Q. List the four categories of haircolor.Q. If the desired color result is to stain the cuticle layer which type of haircolor would you choose?
92Q. What color product provides a coating for the hair? Q. Which product will give me the most vivid color results?Q. What is happening to the hair during a permanent haircolor service?
93Q. Out of the four categories. which require a patch test Q. Out of the four categories which require a patch test prior to application?Q. Out of the four which would be good for unpigmented hair?Q. Which one causes a physical change in the hair shaft?
94Natural and Metallic Haircolors Not used in salonsInclude: natural, vegetable and metallic haircolorsGradual colorsRepeated use creates a buildup*grayish or green cast
95Natural/Vegetable Haircolors Henna-obtained from leaves or bark of plantsDoes not lightening/liftProcess can be lengthy and messy
96Henna only available in clear, black, Shade range is limitedHenna only available in clear, black,chestnut, and auburn tonesNo chemical services can be performed over natural hair colors due to coating on the hair shaft (uneven or undesirable results can be expected)img.tradeindia.com/fp/0/271/282.jpg
97Metallic Haircolors:Called gradual colors and progressive dyesContain metal saltsChange hair color gradually by: *progressive buildup *exposure to air*creating a dull, metallic appearance
98Require daily application Marketed to men Unnatural-looking colors Limited shade range
99FYI: not needed on testDestroy sulfur-cross-links in the cortex-hair breakage or hair lossMetals interfere with PW and our other chemicals (tint)
100FYI con’tMetals can be absorbed through the skin and reach dangerous levels in the bodyUsers report: headaches, dermatitis reactions, facial swelling, & lead poisoning
101If hydrogen peroxide or any. other chemical is added to a If hydrogen peroxide or any other chemical is added to a metal salt it will melt the hairRead Caution page 639Removal of metallic colors is difficult and not recommended
102Test for Metallic Salts (pg. 583) *Needed for Chapter test* In glass container, mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of 28% ammonia water.Cut a strand of the client’s hair, bind with tape, and immerse in the solution for 30 minutesRemove, towel dry, observe the strand
103Hair with lead-lightens immediately Silver-no reaction (other chemicals will not be able to penetrate the coating)Copper-hair will start to boil and will easily pull apart (other chemicals would severely damage or destroy the hair).
104Other info to know for test: Silver dyes fade to a green castLead dyes fade to a purple castCopper dyes turn red
105Hydrogen Peroxide Developers Is an oxidizing agent*when mixed with an oxidation color*supplies oxygen gas to develop color molecules*creates a change in natural hair color
106Volume: measures the concentration and strength of H2O2 pH betweenOthers developers on market; peroxide is most common for haircolorDifferent forms-liquid and creamVolume: measures the concentration and strength of H2O2Lower the volume=lesslift is achieved
107Higher volume=greater the lifting action 10,20,30,40 are used for proper lift and colordevelopmentStore-cool, dark place
108Add to side bar:10 volume-deposit only *does not cause enough lift to consider20 volume-one-two levels of lift30 volume-two-three levels of lifts40 volume-three-four levels of lift
109Add:Stabilizers are added to prolong the life, appearance, and performance of product.
111Not in book-need to know: High-lift tint will allow you to achieve four levels of lift successfully.Many haircolor brands are mixed equal parts developer/tint.Ratio of 1:1High-lift tints are a ratio of 1:2*use 40 volume developerTint Developer
112H2O2 mixed with lightener begins to release oxygen LightenersLighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural pigmentH2O2 mixed with lightener begins to release oxygenKnown as oxidation*happens within the cortex
113To achieve a very pale blonde shade use a double-process application Known as a two-step coloringHair is prelightened, then the depositing color is appliedUsing a lightener-up to 90 minutes
114Once hair is properly lightened, second step adds soft tone back to the hair Called toning processToners-very light shade palette to add tone to decolorized hairDemipermanent colors, Level 8-10 are also used as toners
115Lighteners are also used to achieve: Lighten the hair prior to application of a final colorLighten hair to a particular shadeBrighten and lighten an existing shade2.bp.blogspot.com/.../sassoon_pic_5021_0_sl.jpg
116Q. What situation would cause us not to be able to achieve a blonde shade? A. If client wants a color lighter than 4 shades of lift. Remember tint can only go up 4 levels.
118The Decolorizing Process Lighten only certain parts of the hairLighten dark natural or color- treated levelsThe Decolorizing ProcessHair goes though different stages of color as it lightensAdd: Stages-visible color change that natural hair goes through while being lightened
119depends on how much pigment the hair has the strength of the lightening productlength of time it is processedgoes through as many as 10 stageslh6.ggpht.com/killerstrands/SJkiO_mt96I/AAAAA...
120Depicts how long it takes to lift thru the gold. 2.bp.blogspot.com/.../s320/DSCF1330.JPG
121Allows the colorist to create the. exact degree of contributing Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final resultFirst, the hair is decolorized to the appropriate levelNew color is applied to deposit the desired color
122Lightening the hair to the correct. stage is essential to a beautiful, Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to a beautiful, controlled, final haircoloring result.Q. If the client is a natural level 2 (very dark brown), and wants to have level 7 (medium blonde) full head of color, what level of decolorization will I need to get to for a successful color?
123*Permanent haircolor products used primarily on prelightened Toners*Semi-permanent*Demipermanent*Permanent haircolor productsused primarily on prelightenedhair to achieve pale and delicate colors*process up to 5 minutes
124Not all hair will go through 10 stages of lightening Each natural color starts at a different stageGoal: is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result1.bp.blogspot.com/.../s320/DSCF1348.JPG
125Hair is never safely lifted past the pale yellow stage to white Causes excessive damage to the hair strandResult: wet hair feels mushyand will stretch withoutreturning to originallength
126When dry: hair is harsh and brittle Often suffers breakage and will not accept toner properlyBaby-blonde look (Marilyn Monroe/Madonna) can be achieved by lightening to a pale yellow and neutralizing the unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with a toner
128CONSULTATIONMost criticalFirst step in establishing a relationship with your clientClient will communicate what she is looking forListen carefully so you can make the appropriate haircolor recommendations
134Ask leading questionsLet them talkYour questions might include:Temporary or permanent changeAll over or highlightsConservative or dramatic
135If you ask a client: do you want your color to whisper, talk or scream If you ask a client: do you want your color to whisper, talk or scream? You will gain a clear picture of how they want to look, how much of a highlight, or how light/bold the color is to be.Describe what you would label your hair color as.
136Use people’s hair from the media to help describe an effect Add shine to your hair?4. Recommend at least two different options5. Review the procedure and application techniques
138-cost of service and follow-up maintenance -several steps may be needed to achieve result-may not be able to afford it, have a more economical back-up solution ready
1396. Be honest, do not promise the world -corrective color solutions take time, let client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve desired look7. Gain approval from the client
1408. Start the hair color service 9. Educate and inform client about home care, products, rebooking, what shampoo and conditioner is needed, how many weeks to the next service10. Fill out client haircolor cardRead both Caution Boxes and the Focus On
141Release StatementQ. What statement can be made about release statements in PA.?Q. Name two haircolor safety precautions that will prevent injury to a client.A. Patch test and do not tint eyelashes or eyebrows with haircolor.
142Formulation:Four basic questions that must always be asked when formulating a haircolor***Drape the client for a chemical service, and try to answer these four questions, then give us the answers when we come to help you formulate.**Need to know all four questions for the test
143What is the natural level? Is there any gray hair? What is the client’s desired level and tone?Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed?What colors should be mixed to get the desired result and what volume of developer?
145Formulate with both lift and deposit in mind Formulation con’t:Combination of the shade and the volume of H2O2 determines the lifting ability of a haircolorFormulate with both lift and deposit in mind
146Add:Formulation: art of mixing to create a blend or balance of two or more ingredients.
147Higher lifting formulas may. not cancel the warmth of a Higher lifting formulas may not cancel the warmth of a client’s natural contributing pigmentVolume of H2O2 mixed with the haircolor product will also influence the lift and depositEx. Bright reds
148Q. Can I mix the color of the. hair swatch that the client Q. Can I mix the color of the hair swatch that the client showed me she liked? Why or why not?Q. What will help me to determine the tone that will be needed?Q. When you have a color client, what will you do before calling Mrs.K or myself over?
149Mixing Permanent Colors: Method of mixing is determined by the type of application you are usingApplied by either bowl and brush or applicator bottleAlways follow manufacturer’s directions
150Applicator bottle: Large enough to hold color and developer, enough room to shake to mix the productFor ratio 1:1-pour 1 ounce developer into bottle, add 1 ounce of color, mixQ. What is another way to say ratio 1:1?Equal parts
151For a ratio 1:2-one part high lift tint to two parts developer, or Ex.-1 ounce tint to 2 ounces developerQ. What is another way to say this ratio?Double peroxideThis is the ratio for high-lift blonde colors
153Brush and bowl:Use nonmetallic bowl!!!!!Measure developer into bowlAdd color/colors in appropriate proportionsUse applicator brush, stir to blend
154To determine any allergy or sensitivity to the mixture Patch test info:To determine any allergy or sensitivity to the mixtureAlso called *predisposition test*hypersensitivity test*sensitivity test*allergy testMust be given 48 hours prior to each application of an aniline derivative tintAdd all three:
155Must be the same tint brand and color that will be used on the hair Negative skin test/or result- shows no sign of inflammation* color may be safely applied4.bp.blogspot.com/.../s400/HellaciousHair163.jpg
156Positive result-shows redness,. rash, welt, swelling, itching, Positive result-shows redness, rash, welt, swelling, itching, burning, blisters, open sores and breathing difficulties-do not use this product on your client***You can patch test with a different brand of color, however I would expect them to be allergic to that as well.
157*Read both Caution Boxes Result of using permanent haircolor on the eyebrows.Blindness may occur.(this client did a 48 hour patch test and it was negative)*Read both Caution Boxesthebeautybrains.com/.../2008/09/swolleneye.jpg
158The ingredient that people are allergic to is: Add: para-phenylenediamine or PPD.***There are other ingredients that clients could be sensitive to as well, but this is the most common one.***About 1 in 100 react to haircolor.***I have seen one case in 26 years
159Q. Does it matter what level of developer. is used in the patch test Q. Does it matter what level of developer is used in the patch test? Why or why not?Q. What will determine how long the patch test is to remain on the client’s skin?Q. What must we anticipate from a higher volume of developer than 20, when mixed with a level 6 haircolor?Q. We know that we will pull more orange and red, so what complimentary tone must we include in the formula?
160Haircolor Applications Follow a prescribed procedureMakes for greatest efficiency and the safest, most satisfactory resultsbeccasbyline.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/ist2...
161Preliminary Strand Test Once formula is created-try it on a small strand of hairThis will tell you how the hair will react to the formula and how long to processThe strand test is performed after the client is prepared for the coloring service.3.bp.blogspot.com/.../s200/DSCF1801.JPG
162Semi-permanent Haircolor Temporary Colors:Apply to manufacturer’s directionsSemi-permanent HaircolorDeposit onlyColor applied over color always creates a darker color
163Porosity determines how well the products “take” Can build up on the endsStrand test will determine the formula and processing time
164***Strand test prior to rinsing out tints and lighteners Q. Explain the difference between a preliminary strand test and a strand test.
165Demipermanent Haircolor Great way to introduce client to colorEnhance their natural colorApplication is similar to semipermanent, FMD
166Gray hair: special challenges Depth of color may appear too harshAllow for some brightness and warmthSelect a shade one level lighter*more natural-looking result
167Previous color service-greater degree of porosity Take into consideration when formulating and applying
168FYI (whole page)Single Process tints:Usually contain a lightening agent, shampoo, an aniline derivative tint, & an alkalizing agent to activate the added peroxideUsually uses 20 volume developerWhen using other volumes of developer, the results will be altered
169Lightens and deposits color in a single application Single-Process Permanent HaircolorLightens and deposits color in a single applicationIncludes: Virgin tint going lighterTint retouchPrelightening or presoftening is not required
170Single-process Color Retouch: *use a glaze (nonammonia) to add shine and tone the hair shaft and ends1. Retouch the new growth*Do not overlap*causes breakage and a“line of demarcation”-visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
171Done for effect c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/24/l_c57...
1722. Process color according to your analysis and strand test results 3. Refresh faded ends* no-lift deposit-only haircolor*rinse the color through the ends, shampoo/conditionAdd: Shampoo two times for all lighteners and color services
173Q. Explain why we would see a line of demarcation. When the color is applied to porous hair (previously tinted) it will usually take a deeper tone than the new growth will, leaving you with a line of two colors.Add: Line of Demarcation-obvious difference between two colors on the hair shaft
174Double-Process Haircolor: Process of hair lighteningKnown as bleaching or decolorizingDiffusion of the natural hair color or artificial haircolor from the hair
175Double-process Haircolor: Dramatically lighter color Prelightened firstTo achieve pale or cool colors use double-process applicationDecolorize with lightener*then deposit desired tone
177Modern day accelerating machines to process perms and color faster krnsnowflake.250free.com/step1.jpg
178Known as double process high- lift coloring and two-step blonding 1. Hair is prelightened first2. Then tonedPrelightening lifts thenatural pigments, beforethe toner*wider range of haircolor possibilities
179By prelightening the hair to the. desired color you create a perfect By prelightening the hair to the desired color you create a perfect foundation for longer- lasting red colors that avoid muddiness and stay true to toneAdd: Shampoo allcolor/lightenerservices 2 times
180Prelightener is applied the same way as a regular lightening treatment Once reached desired shade, lightly shampoo, acidify and towel dryDo a strand test to ensure the results of the tonerApply color/toner in the usual mannerRead Focus On and Caution Box
182Choose from oil, cream and powder Using LightenersChoose from oil, cream and powderOil/cream: on-the-scalp lightenersPowder: off-the-scalp lightenersresources.shopstyle.com/pim/9f/35/9f3534a980c...
183On-the-scalp lighteners: *cream and oil, some powder* Easy to applyOil-mildest*one or two levels of color lift is desiredUsed professionally to lighten dark facial and body hair
184Cream*strong enough for high-lift blondingGentle on scalpConditioning agents that give some protection to hair and scalpThickeners give more control during application
185Do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouch services May be mixed with activators (boosters, protinators, accelerators) in the form of dry crystals. ON TESTActivators*powdered persulfate salts*increase lifting power
186More activators, the lighter the hair Up to 3 for on-the-scalpUp to 4 off-the-scalpIncrease scalp irritation
187Powdered Off-the-scalp lighteners: Quick lightenersStrong, fast acting powderDry out more quickly*cover with plastic capDo not run or dripExpand and spread out
188Time factors:Darker the hair, more melanin, takes longerInfluenced by porosity, lightening agent can reach the cortex fasterTone-more red, more difficult to achieve pale delicate shadesAsh blondes are difficult to achieve
189Strength of product affects the timing Heat leads to quicker timing***use infrared lampsStage of lightening must be observed to avoid excessive liftIf lightened beyond desired foundation toner may not develop properly in the hair shaft
190When this occurs, the toner shade. may “grab” the base color, giving When this occurs, the toner shade may “grab” the base color, giving an ashy, cool tonePreliminary Strand Test*determines processing time*condition of hair*end result
191Watch strand for any discoloration or breakage Recondition if needed prior to toningCarefully record all data on client’s cardIf test shows hair is not light enough, increase strength of mixture and/or processing time
192If strand is too light, decrease the. strength of mixture and/or If strand is too light, decrease the strength of mixture and/or decrease the processing timePatch test done prior to application of a toner***Save time-strand test and patch test the same dayRead both Caution boxes
193Lightener retouch: New growth *part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been coloredApplied only to thenew growthQ. Name the application that must be used for a successful retouch on this client.
194Use cream lightener for retouch Less irritating to the scalpHelps prevent overlapping*overlapping can cause severe breakage or lines of demarcationConsult record card*lightener formula, timing and other matters
195Using TonersPrimarily used on prelightened hair*achieve pale, delicate colorsRequires double-process application-application of lightener-application of toner*no-lift deposit only
196*color that remains in the hair after lightening Contributing pigment*color that remains in the hair after lightening(foundation)Achieve the correctfoundation*to create the right color and degree of porosity required for proper toner developmentContributing pigment needed for a light red color
197Manufacturer’s will include. literature recommending the Manufacturer’s will include literature recommending the foundation necessary to achieve the desired colorPaler the desired color the lighter the foundationOverlightened hair will “grab” the base of the toner
198Underlightened hair will. appear to have more red, Underlightened hair will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than the intended colorDo not prelighten past the pale yellow stageThis creates overporous hair that will have inadequate amounts of natural pigment left in the cortex for the toner to bond to
199Refer to law of color to select a toner *neutralize or complimentToner ApplicationPatch test required/***strand testProceed with application only if the patch test is negative and the hair is in good condition
200Speed and accuracy in applying is important *determines whether you get good color resultsProcedure-check with instructorQ. What would your first instinct be for the procedure?
201Special effects haircoloring: Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring*pure fashiontechniquesVersatile and excitingz.hubpages.com/u/ _f520.jpg
202Strategically placing light and dark colors in the hair Highlighting involves coloring strands lighter thannatural color* illusion of depthperfecthairbymimi.com/.../images/hair_color3.jpgpaulwelshhair.com/shari2.jpg
204Light colors appear larger Makes details more visible Reverse highlighting or low lighting colors strands darker than the natural colorContrasting dark areasrecede, appear smallerMake detail less visiblei38.tinypic.com/6h6kix.jpg
205Possibilities are limited only by your imagination As you expand yourknowledge, you willbecome more creativePossibilities are limitedonly by your imaginationTechniques for highlightingCapFoilBalayage or free-form1.bp.blogspot.com/_Co-NcLNyFP4/SSSV4wvTYYI/AA...
206Cap technique:Involves pulling clean, DRY strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal needleComb to remove tangles# of strands pulled determines the amount of highlighting or lowlighting
207Small # pulled effect will be subtle Noticeable effect when many are pulled thoughCaution: the density of the client’s hair must be consideredimages.inmagine.com/.../ingc/1525r88999.jpg
208For high/lowlighting-apply lightener or any haircolor FYI **when desired shade is reached-rinse product off of cap(if lightener is used, cool water)-add small amount of shampoo-untie and slide cap off-wet down all hair-shampoo twice, conditionDo this except if a toner is needed after the lightener
209*rinse lightener off of cap with cool water FYI To tone:*rinse lightener off of cap with cool water* add small amount of shampoo* cleanse off bleach* rinse out with cap on* towel dry hair thoroughly*dry with blow dryer* add toner and process.When toner is finished proceed as before.
210Go under cap to erase a pull that is too thick ***use caps only on shorter hair/never long hair
211Foil Technique:Involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections* placing them on foil or plastic wrap*applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the foil or plasticUse permanent haircolor for softer looks/red HL
212Placing foil in hair is an art Takes practice and disciplineSlicing-take 1/8th” section of hair by making a straight part at the scalpPosition hair over the foilApply lightener/colorCarefully close the foil while preventing the foil from slipping
213Fold all foils on a diagonal line to prevent foils from slipping. Show movieBe sure the top is no longer or shorter than the parting
214Weaving-selected strands are. picked up from a narrow Weaving-selected strands are picked up from a narrow (1/8th”) section of hairuse a zigzag motion of the combPlace hair over foilApply lightener or colorCarefully close the foil while preventing the foil from slipping
215Many patterns that foils can be placed in the hair Face-frame, half-head, three quarter head, full-headTo produce different highlights in different portions of the head
217Apply product to the regrowth only-not the entire strand Foil retouch:Apply product to the regrowth only-not the entire strandcdn-www.expertvillage.com/showImage.aspx?site...
218Balayage technique:Or free-form, involves painting of a lightener (usually powder lightener) directly onto clean, styled hairApplied with tint brush or a tail comb from base to ends around the headExtremely subtle/used to draw attention to the surface of the hair or…
220Toning overhighlighted and dimensionally colored hair: When hair is decolorized to the desired level*toner may not be necessaryIf a cool tonality is desired, use a toner to cancel any undesirable yellow contributing pigment
221An oxidative toner will add color to the highlighted strands * it might also causing a slight amount of lift to the natural, or pigmented hair***Result may be uneven tonality *warmth brought outStrand test to ensure best results
222Avoiding untreated hair options: Use a nonoxidative toner*no ammonia-no developer (thus no lift)Is gentler on the scalp and hair
223Semipermanent color can be used (deposit/no lift) Always check with themanufacturer’s colorchart for the base color ofyour chosen toner, to ensurethat when the toner combineswith the contributing pigment,gives you the exact tone you want3.bp.blogspot.com/.../s320/Killer2396.jpg
224Use a demipermanent haircolor *deposit only without ammoniaLasts longer than temporary or semipermanent toner
225Slight change in shade is desired Highlighting ShampooPrepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampooSlight change in shade is desired*Or when a client’s hair processes very rapidly
226Highlights the hair’s natural color in a single application No patch test is required****Other:Mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxideNatural color is slightly lightenedNo patch test requiredFollow manufacturer’s directions
227Special problems in haircolor/corrective coloring Each haircoloring service is unique and can present unique challengesComplete clientconsultation andanalysis of hair iscritical4.bp.blogspot.com/.../s320/hairsos1.jpg
228Strand tests*satisfactory final resultsEven the most skilled colorist will occasionally have a problem that could not be predicted
229Gray hair: Challenges and Solutions Gray, white, and salt and pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challengesGray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough
230Gray hair with a yellow cast is caused by: Yellowed Hair:Gray hair with a yellow cast is caused by:smokingmedicationSun exposurehair sprays andstyling aidsmanolomen.com/images/sam-elliott-with-yellow-...
231Lighteners and tint removers can help remove yellow discoloration Can be overpowered (neutralized) by the deposit of violet-based colorsAdd: Discoloration-development of undesired shades through chemical reactionsQ. What is the problem when we see someone with blue or violet hair? (Mr. Herr’s blue haired ladies)
232Blue-violet toner was used img.photobucket.com/.../100_5651.jpgBlue-violet toner was used
233Formulating For Gray Hair: Accepts the level of the color appliedLevel 9 or higher may not give complete coverage (not enough pigment)Add: Coverage-ability of a product to color unpigmented , white, or other colors of the hairLevel 7 or darker will cover better, can be used for pastel & blonde tones
234Q. What effect would a lighter color have on this client? Before and after:Lowlights in gray hairtakatotheedge.files.wordpress.com/2008/06/03c...Q. What effect would a lighter color have on this client?
235For 80-100% gray-blonde range is better Selected color can be warm or cool depending on skin, eye color and preferenceQ. What theory can you state about why the hair changes to gray?A. As we age skin, eye color and hair lose pigment/part of aging process
236Salt and pepper (low percentage of gray) *color on color will always make a darker toneTo compensate: use a shade 2 levels lighter than the natural dark hair
237Always strand testFollow the chart-table 21-5 and manufacturer’s product color chartTake into account client’s:*personality*personal preferences*amount of gray and it’s location
238Location:-majority gray in the front section-formulate on percentage of gray hair the client sees-hair that surrounds the face influences the client’s self-image
239Tips for Achieving gray Coverage: Level 7 medium-blonde or deeper20 vol. developerProcess 45 minutesAdd neutral or neutral (warm tone)in percentages that followHigh-lift blonde will not cover gray hairUse Level 7 then add highlights
240Presoftening:Gray hair can be resistantRaises the cuticle*allows better penetration of colorActs like a stain
241Presoftener is applied, processed, and removed Then haircolor is appliedAllow to process 15 minutes or FMDWhile presoftening the resistant areas, mix and apply final formula to the rest of the head
242***To presoften:Mix according to manufacturer’s directionsApply to most resistant areas firstProcess room temperature minutes/FMDWipe color off gently with towel to remove
243Next, apply desired level and tone to achieve end results Or use Mrs. Mandato’s “Primer”Chemistry is different, this is not a presoftening techniqueIn clinic, when one of us is working with you use their technique, learn both, then you decide which to use
244Rules for Effective Color Correction Color may not come out as expectedProblems can be correctedQ. What is the main reason this color needs correcting. Determine what tone would be better and why.i.ehow.com/.../ / main_Full.jpg
246Keep in mind:Do not panicDetermine the nature of the problemDetermine what caused the problemDevelop a solutionAlways take one step at a time
2476. Never guarantee an exact result 7. Always strand test for accuracyDamaged Hair:Blow-drying, wind harsh shampoos, and chemical services affect the condition of the hair
248Coating compounds:*hairspray*styling agents*some conditioners can block color penetration***Heavy coatings/shampoo and dry hair under dryer for better results
249Hair is considered damaged with one or more of: Rough textureOverporous conditionBrittle and dry
250Susceptible to breakage No elasticity Becomes spongy and matted when wetColor fades orgrabs too dark
251Any of these conditions can create Any of these conditions can create problems during tinting, lightening, PW, or hair relaxing treatmentsGive reconditioningtreatments prior to,and after theapplication of thesechemical processes
252conditioner that deposits protein, oils, and moisture rich ingredients Tips for damaged hair:Use a penetratingconditioner that depositsprotein, oils, and moisturerich ingredientsComplete each chemicalservice with a lowpH finishing rinseep.yimg.com/ca/I/sleekhair_2065_
253Q. What do we use here that is an acidic finishing rinse? Q. What effect will Reginal have in the hair?Postpone any further chemical services until hair is reconditioned
254Schedule client for between- service conditioning Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for the next serviceQ. If the damage to the client’s hair is your fault, do you charge for conditioning treatments or home care products? If client’s fault, same Q?
255Fillers: Equalize porosity ***Can be ready-made by manufacturer or are prepared by mixing haircolor andconditionerAllure.com
256Conditioner fillers and color fillers Conditioner fillers Two types:Conditioner fillers andcolor fillersConditioner fillers*recondition damaged, overly porous hair*equalize porosityApply in a separate procedure or immediately prior to color application
257Uniform contributing pigment Color fillersEqualize porosityDeposit colorUniform contributing pigmentUse no-lift deposit only haircolor (demipermanent)
258Advantages:Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaftHelp hair to hold colorPrevents streaking and dull appearanceAdd: Faded-to loose color through exposure to the elements, or other factors
259Prevents off-color results Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tintProduces uniform colorwhen doing a tintback
260Selecting the Correct Color Filler All three primary colors must be present*looks naturalEx. Blonde hair to Brown:Yellow Blueorange-red is needed
261To correct unwanted haircolor: *use the complementary color that is missingYellow blonde hair*corrected with violetOrange blonde hair*corrected with blueAdding blue to yellow hair*makes green
262Haircolor Tips for Redheads Exciting and funFading common problemArtificial pigment within the hair shaft continues to oxidize and fade***Use lower volume developer to prevent fading and brassiness
264Tips:To create warm coppery reds*red orange base colorTo create hot fiery reds*red-violet or true red colorsAfter hair has been colored with permanent haircolor*use no-lift deposit only on hair shaft and ends
265If gray hair*add ½ to 1 ounce of neutral/natural color***gray hair will pick up the pure base of the color, your results could be bright orange or bright pink
266To brighten:*use soap cap*equal parts shampoo and remaining color before rinsing
267Haircolor Tips for Brunettes: Avoid orange or brassy tones*use cool blue baseAdd: Red, orange, or gold tones use “drabber” to reduce red or gold highlightsAvoid unwanted brassy tones*do not lighten more than 2 levels above natural color
268Add 1 ounce neutral/natural color to cover gray Highlights in brunettes*deep or caramel colored*lessmaintenancethan
272Q. How much money would a. salon quote as a price for a Q. How much money would a salon quote as a price for a client that enters the salon with green hair?A. Never quote a price unless you have strand tested each step. Problems can still arise, so I recommend that you give yourself a safety net and say “corrective hair color starts at $_____”.
273Q. How much time will you tell. your client that a corrective Q. How much time will you tell your client that a corrective haircolor service will take?
274Haircolor Tips for Blondes: Popular, profitable, funPossibilities are endlessLightening brown to blonde*underlying unwanted warm tonesworldentertainment.files.wordpress.com/2008/1...
275Double-process blonde *pale blonde results Covering gray*use Level 7 or darkerDouble-process blonde*pale blonde resultsIf high-lift blondes are used on Level 4 or below*results too warm or brassyi36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/WR82/riker.jpg
276If highlights become too blonde *lowlights or deeper strands foiled in
277Common Haircolor Solutions Refresh faded color*demipermanent*stay within two levels of your formula*apply all over-process up to 10 minutes
278Green cast:*build up of minerals~well water~chlorine*remove the mineral buildup*apply demipermanent color to neutralize unwanted colorAdd: “drab” describes no red or gold.
279Overall Haircolor is Too light: Result of incorrect formulationApply no-lift haircolor one-two levels darker
280Overall Color is Too Dark: Add: 1st try Dawn dish detergent to fade or spot lighteningDetermine how much color needs to be removedUse haircolor removerProcess 10 minutes
281Designed to remove artificial pigment Once achieved desired color, rinse and shampoo
282What steps will be needed to achieve the natural haircolor? Tint back:What steps will be needed to achieve the natural haircolor?1.bp.blogspot.com/.../s320/DSCF1776.JPG
283Restoring Blonde to Natural Haircolor ***called Tint BackCan be trickyClient may not like it*will look darki.ehow.com/.../ / main_Full.jpg
2841st soften new growth*level 6 violet base/20 vol*apply to scalp*process 30 minutes, rinseNext,*apply no-lift deposit only glaze-1 oz. Level 8-1 oz. Level 9 red-orange*to all lightened hair-not to scalp area-process 20 minutes, rinse, shampoo, towel dry
285*no-lift deposit only glaze *2 oz. Level 6 Finally*no-lift deposit only glaze*2 oz. Level 6*apply scalp to ends*process 20 minutes-check every 5 minutesimages.teamsugar.com/.../2/20652/45_2007/BM.jpg
287Haircoloring Safety Precautions *** need 5 for the testGive patch testDo not apply if abrasions are presentDo not apply if metallic or compound tint is presentDo not brush hair prior to tint- can be picked, avoid scalp
288Read and follow manufacturer’s directions Use cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towelsProtect clothing with a chemical drapeDo strand test
289Only use glass or plastic to mix product Do not mix tint/ lightener before ready to use; discard leftover productWear glovesDo not allow color to get in the client’s eyes
290Do not overlap tint or lightener Use mild shampooAlways wash hands before and after serviceRead Caution and Focus On
291FYI Haircoloring offers: *opportunity to exercise your creative impulses*will bring great pleasure to your clients*enjoy and appreciate all the learning you need to do, now and in the future
292and formulations constantly change *keep learning new techniques *techniques, fashions,and formulations constantly change*keep learning new techniques3.bp.blogspot.com/.../Vanessa+Williams+Hair.jpg