Consultation and Advice 2 Chapter 6, Consultation and advice 1

Consultation and advice At the end of this session you will have learned: The importance of communication and professionalism in the salon. Things to consider in during a consultation. Why, when and how to carry out hair diagnostic tests. Refer to textbook, Chapter 6 Complete Scenarios

Professional conduct and communication Hairdressing and barbering are personal services that depend upon the relationships that we create with our clients. If the relationship is established upon a professional footing, then there will be; mutual respect, good customer service and an on-going, client loyalty. This client loyalty is essential if we are going to get; returning customers, gain new clients and build-up a good reputation for the future. Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, pages 1–3

Communication When you communicate with your clients, you will need to: Speak clearly in the correct manner using the right tone of voice. Avoid confusion with clients, don’t use ‘jargon’ or hairdressing technical language. Listen and respond appropriately and willingly to their requests. Be polite, friendly and considerate; try to anticipate your client’s needs. Be discrete and confidential; especially when handling information about the salon’s clients. Show a positive body language. Behave like a professional. Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, pages 1–3

Behave like a professional Always dress and behave professionally within the salon – you will not believe how much your appearance has on what your client thinks about you. When we meet someone for the first time, it is human nature to rush into making our first impression of what we see. This judgement, rightly or wrongly, is a lasting impression and in a professional setting, it has to be the right one.

Behave like a professional (cont.) The client assumes your professionalism by: The way that you dress, in what you wear and how you wear it Your appearance, i.e. your tidiness, cleanliness and your hair The way you behave and relate to other members of staff Complete Activity 1 Standards of behaviour

Analysis There are two basic parts to client consultation: You discuss your client’s requirements You see if there are any reasons why you cannot fulfil their requests . The analysis of the client’s hair takes the form of a visual inspection, so you will need to brush and separate the hair in several directions and in different areas over the head. This visual assessment will help you to find any; hair features, contra-indications or aspects that will either limit or change the range of options available to your client. Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, page 25

Analysis (cont.) You are looking for anything that could affect or influence your decisions: Hair texture Hair length Hair growth patterns Hair shape Hair density Hair colour

Analysis (cont.) Hair problems Infections and scalp problems Face and body shapes Lifestyle Hair condition Using a variety of tests can help you with some of the areas you need to find out about.

Consultation – things to consider Hair texture Texture refers to the thickness of individual hairs. Hair texture can be: Coarse – thicker in cross-section than other hair with several layers of cuticle Medium – moderately thick with many layers of cuticle Fine – with fewer layers of cuticle Very fine – with only a few layers of cuticle Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, page 12

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair length Length can be;: Long – one length and extends beyond the shoulders and down the client’s back Long – in layers and extends beyond the shoulders and down the client’s back Medium – one length and extends to the shoulders or just beyond Medium – in layers and extends to the shoulders or just beyond Short – one length and finishes at a point above the shoulders Short – in layers and covers a variety of hairstyles that do not extend to the shoulders

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair Growth Patterns Cowlick – A strong, upward directional growth pattern that affects the front hairline and creates problems for fringe directions and the ‘lie’ of the hair. Double crown – An unusual growth feature where two crowns exist instead of one, which affects the hair over the top of the head and the lie of the hair over the rear parting and back of the head. Widow’s peak This growth pattern appears at the centre of the front hairline. The hair grows upward and forward, forming a strong peak. Similarly, to the ‘cowlick’ this pattern creates problems for fringes and the lie of the hair. Nape whorl – This appears as ‘sideways’ growth pattern at either or both sides of the nape. It can make the hair difficult to cut into a straight neckline or close cut graduated layers. (This will often form a V-shape.) Male pattern baldness – A hereditary condition passed from father to son, where a progressive thinning occurs around the crown, at the top of the head, or at the sides of the front hairline. Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, pages 50–51

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair type Appearance Properties Asian hair A round shape in cross-section producing straighter hair tendency Normally have up to 12 layers of cuticle. It is usually coarser in texture and often resistant to chemicals. Caucasian hair More oval in cross-section producing a wavy hair tendency Normally have up to 8 or 9 layers of cuticle. It is usually medium, or fine to medium in texture and generally quite susceptible (easy) to processing chemically. African Caribbean hair Is ‘kidney-shaped’ in cross-section producing a curly or frizzier tendency No more than 5 layers of cuticle. It is usually finer in texture and delicate or fragile in chemical processing or heat styling.

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair density The amount and distribution of hair growing from the scalp will affect the things that you can do: Thick – Lots of hair growing closely together produces a very thick effect that takes longer to style and dry. Medium – A moderate amount that would give an even coverage and would be easy to style. Thin or thinning – Usually accompanied with finer or very fine hair types. The distribution of hair over the scalp may be the same as medium hair but will have poorer coverage and will often show the scalp through when styling; it could also be related to male pattern baldness or some other form of alopecia. Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, page 12

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair colour Hair colour can be either: Natural colour – A result of the naturally occurring pigments that are produced in the living part of the hair. The pigments are collectively called melanin and are made up from: Pheomelanin – a yellow or golden pigment Eumelanin – a brown or ashen pigment Trichosiderin – a very rare red pigment (found in natural red heads)   Artificial colour – Thethe result of either: adding chemicals that deposit, semi-, quasi- or permanent hair colour to the hair, or by removing the natural pigments to produce lightened or bleached effects.

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair problems Infections and scalp problems Contra-indications – There is a wide variety of hair and scalp diseases or dysfunctions that affect or limit your client’s styling options.  (covered in session 1)

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Facial shapes Different facial shapes suit different styles: Oval face shape suits any hairstyle. Round faces need height to reduce the width of the face. A centre parting can also help to reduce width. Long faces are improved with short, wider hairstyles. Square faces need round shapes with texture on to the face to soften them. Longer lengths beyond the jaw line improve the balance and proportion. Triangular faces can often benefit from hair around the jaw-line to reduce the narrowness of the chin. These facial shapes will often suit short, ‘head hugging’ layered styles with soft, textured edges. Complete Activities 2 Face shapes and 3 Styles for face shapes

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Lifestyles Your client’s lifestyle will have a huge impact upon the ways in which they can manage their hair. Working clients want practical and manageable styles for their jobs. Nurses, doctors and people in the services like; the police, army, navy, air force, may require styles, which keep the hair off the face, or they may have to wear hats or helmets. Sporty, athletic people need hairstyles that are easy to manage and are not in the way People who meet and greet others or represent their companies in sales or services have a professional image to keep Younger children need simpler styles that are easy to maintain in the mornings, before going to school Refer to textbook, Chapter 6, pages 56–58

Consultation – things to consider (cont.) Hair condition The condition of the hair will affect the manageability and durability of a hairstyle. Conditions can be: Porous hair Damaged hair Dry hair Normal hair Greasy / oily

Diagnostic tests Discuss how diagnostic tests can help the consultation process and the achievement of a good result during the service. Research the types of test that can be used for this purpose. Complete Activity 4 Diagnostic tests

Diagnostic tests (cont.) Make a chart showing: The test Why it is carried out When it is carried out How it is carried out Task Research the types of test that can be used for this purpose. Diagnostic tests Sensitivity test (skin test or patch test) Porosity test Elasticity test Incompatibility test Pre-perm test curl Test cutting Strand test Development test curl Complete Activity 4 Diagnostic tests

Diagnostic tests (cont.) Why to do the test When to do the test How to do the test Sensitivity test (skin test or patch test) Porosity test Elasticity test Incompatibility test Pre-perm test curl Test cutting Strand test Development test curl Task: Carry out a some diagnostic tests and discuss your findings with the group.

Consultation and advice Revisit lesson aims: The importance of communication and professionalism in the salon. Things to consider in during a consultation. Why, when and how to carry out hair diagnostic tests. Carry out beat the clock quiz. Complete Beat the clock quiz