1. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Preparation and consultation Chapter 16, Colouring hair

2. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 During the session you will: Discuss how to work tidily, safely and effectively in a salon environment. Explore the factors that need to be discussed when carrying out a colour consultation. Identify the skin and hair tests that should be carried out prior to and during a colour service. Investigate contra-indications to a colour service. Consider how to select the appropriate colour for the client. Complete Word search

3. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Safe methods of working Chemicals Protecting yourself and your client needs to be more thorough when you are colouring because you will be using chemicals that can cause damage and injury Even temporary colours can stain clothing Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 34– 36

4. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Protecting the client Always use: Use a ‘colour proof’ gown Fresh colouring towels Barrier cream Don’t forget to protect the back of the chair if necessary Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 34– 36

5. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Protecting yourself and minimising waste Salon policy for personal protective equipment (PPE) Always wear and use the PPE Wear disposable gloves when colouring Use a colouring apron Use only the amount of product required Waste increases costs Don’t forget to check your personal hygiene Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 34–36 Refresh your knowledge of COSHH regulations Chapter 1 Complete Activity 1 Dos and don’ts of preparation

6. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Consultation For colouring services consultation should be carried out in two stages. First consultation at least 48 hours before the colouring appointment. Discuss client requirements. Do skin test (if necessary) and colour selection tests Will take longer for a first-time colour client Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 35–40

7. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Consultation (cont.) You must consider: The colour the client is thinking about and why they want it Will it suit the client (skin tone, current base shade) Are there any contra- indications? Hair condition Suitable products and methods Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 39–40

8. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Consultation (cont.) Is the client happy with the commitment? What tests are needed (skin test, test cutting)? Previous colour applications What will it cost? How long will it take? Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 39–40

9. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Consultation (cont.) Second consultation carried out at colour appointment Check result of skin test Confirm colour selection (use results of test cuttings) Check for contra-indications (hair and scalp) Make sure client is happy

10. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests Before and during colouring, tests may be needed: Skin or sensitivity test (patch test) Test cutting Incompatibility test Elasticity test Porosity test Strand test Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 46– 52

11. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Skin or sensitivity test To test the reaction of the skin to the chemicals in colour MUST be done before every application of quasi- and permanent colours Follow the recommendations of the manufacturer Comply with the salon policy Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 46–52

12. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Skin or sensitivity test Carried out between 24 and 48 hours before colour appointment Check the result with the client after that time If there is a reaction this would be a POSITIVE result and the colour should not be done If there is no reaction this is a NEGATIVE result and it is safe to do the colour

13. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Giving a skin test Use a dark colour in the range (follow manufacturer’s instructions) Clean area behind ear Apply small amount to skin Leave for at least 24 hours Check for any reaction Record results

14. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Incompatibility test Indicate if metallic salts are present Place sample of hair in a mixture of H 2 O 2 and ammonium hydroxide If mixture bubble, heats up or discolours, do not do the colour Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 48–49

15. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Elasticity test Indicate the internal strength of the hair Take a single strand of hair and pull between the fingers If the hair does not return to its original position it will be weak Some colours may cause further damage or breakage Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 49–50

16. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Test cutting To show the result of your colour selection Cut a small amount of hair from the client Mix and apply the colour to it Let the colour develop Check the result Refer to textbook Chapter 16, page 52

17. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Skin and hair tests (cont.) Porosity test Tests whether there is cuticle damage which will make the hair porous Run finger and thumb down a single hair from point to root If the hair is rough it indicates cuticle damage Strand test Used during development of the colour to check progress Take a small amount of hair and wipe off the colour and check if the result is what is required. Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 50–51

18. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Contra-indications The areas to consider when looking for contra- indications to colouring service are: Hair condition – includes porosity, elasticity, weakness Skin condition – allergies and skin sensitivity, cuts and abrasions, disorders Medical reasons Lifestyle – ability to maintain, leisure activities Incompatible products Refer to textbook Chapter 16, page 57

19. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Contra-indications (cont.) AreaHow would you find out and why it is unwise to colour Hair condition Skin condition Medical reasons Lifestyle Incompatible products Complete Activity 2 Contra-indications to colouring services

20. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Colour selection Choosing the right target shade for the client Find out the client’s base shade Discuss the colour the client wants to go Decide if it is possible to achieve the target What type of colour could be used? What technique would be best? Do you need to use test cuttings? Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 54–58

21. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Colour selection (cont.) Let the client look at the shade chart and select the colour they would like Advise them of the range they could look at (remember that skin tone changes as hair colour changes) Use the chart to identify client’s base shade Agree the target or target range Decide on the colour or colour mix you will use Decide on the technique: full head, highlights, etc. Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 54–58

22. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Colour selection (cont.) If the client has had colour at the salon before: Check the record card If the client is happy with the colour use the same colour Make sure nothing has changed since the last application Check whether the hair has faded (this will influence your method of application) If the client wants something different then treat as a first-time application Refer to textbook Chapter 16, pages 54–58

23. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Other factors in colour selection Hair condition – if hair is porous it may absorb more colour and the result can be darker than you require Pre-softening – if the hair is resistant it may need to be pre-softened by applying 20 vol (6%) hydrogen peroxide to lift the cuticle Complete Activity 3 Colour selection

24. The Official Guide to Hairdressing and Barbering Level 2 NVQ, 9781408071106, © Cengage Learning 2013 Revisit lesson aims: Discuss how to work tidily, safely and effectively in a salon environment. Explore the factors that need to be discussed when carrying out a colour consultation. Identify the skin and hair tests that should be carried out prior to and during a colour service. Investigate contra-indications to a colour service. Consider how to select the appropriate colour for the client.