Cutting Manual.

Cutting Manual

“A good haircut has shape and structure, but above all personality!”
Reflections Training Academy “A good haircut has shape and structure, but above all personality!”

Reflections Training Academy
CONTENTS Working Safely Page 4 Tool and equipment Page 5 Sections and Cutting Angles Page 7 Factors Page 9 Technical Facts Page 12 One Length Cut above shoulders Page 14 One Length Cut below shoulders Page 17 Long Graduation Page 19 Uniform Layers Page 22 Short Graduation Page 25 Personalising the Haircut Page 28 Fringe/Side Page 29 Fringe/Full Page 30 Forward Graduation Page 31 Glossary of Terms Page 34 Company Values Page 35

Working Safely Positioning The positioning of you and your client are most important when cutting the hair, as the result and balance of the finished look can be affected. Your Clients Position Once gowned and protected, you must ensure that your client sits comfortably with their back supported in the chair, in an upright position with their legs uncrossed and evenly balanced. Your Body Position Stand with your body weight evenly distributed throughout the entire cutting process. This will not only prevent fatigue and back problems, but ensure the hairstyle is also balanced. Sit on a cutting stool while cutting hair short or for working on the back of the client’s head. This will prevent you from bending and overstretching and help to maintain your comfort, which is essential during the cutting service. PALMING OF SCISSORS X You must make sure you hold your scissors correct while working to avoid any injury or mistakes happening to you or your client. The diagrams show how to correctly “palm” your scissors. * Never keep the thumb in the scissors when combing or sectioning. 4

Tools & Equipment The parts of your scissors The points of the scissors – used for point cutting or chipping techniques and freehand. The cutting blade edge is used for all club techniques, scissors over comb and some free hand angles. The blades – outside of blade edges. The Heel – the strength of the scissors. The pivot – an adjustable screw to loosen or tighten the movement of the blades. The shanks – give the length from the blades to the handles. The handle – thumb and finger holes. Maintaining and using tools and equipment You must always use your tools correctly. Scissors are extremely sharp and accidents can occur. Always carry your scissors with the blades closed and keep them safe from harm by storing them in a cutting case. Your scissors are likely to be the most expensive item in your tool collection, and dropping them with the blades open or pointing downwards can be very costly and affect the position of the blades. Care of scissors should include: using them only for their intended purpose – cutting hair carrying them in a safe manner and storing them after use ensuring they are fit for purpose Cleaning and sterilising them after use removing all hair cuttings and oiling them regularly having them professionally sharpened when required Choosing suitable cutting tools For most basic cutting techniques, you will use scissors with an average blade length of 5 inches (or 12.5 cm), depending on the size of your hands. Choosing the right scissors for you to work with comfortably is important. 5

Tools & Equipment As you become more experienced you are likely to want a selection of scissors for a variety of techniques, and you’ll probably buy more expensive scissors as your skill level increases. SCISSORS Although, at a glance, all scissors look the same, they are indeed very different. They can vary in size and weight due to the metals they are made from, and the type of cutting blade may also vary. At varying costs, you can purchase scissors that have a different thumb area referred to as ‘offset’ thumb area, which can make it more comfortable for you to cut baselines and achieve exaggerated angles. Scissors are available with serrated or straight blades. Serrated scissors are most suitable when you first start cutting hair, as they aid control and grip the hair as we cut. However, if you which to use texturising techniques and slide or slice cut the hair, these will not be suitable, as they pull the hair, affecting the cut and may cause discomfort to your client. Straight scissors, or non-serrated blades, are the sharpest for cutting, slicing and chipping. You can use these for most techniques and can buy them from £30 up to a few hundred pounds. Thinning scissors are used to remove bulk at the end of the haircut and have ‘teeth’ or ‘notches’ all the way up one or both blades. Thinning scissors with notches on both blades remove less bulk than those with only one notched blade. Off-set On-set 6

Sections & Cutting Angles This section runs Vertically Vertical sections can go from the centre front hair line to the centre nape. This section runs Horizontally Horizontal sections can go across the nape, across the crown or around the head from ear to ear. This section runs Diagonally Diagonal sections can go from left to right or from right to left. They are usually positioned to follow the shape of the head. 7

This section of hair has been lifted 90° to the head 90° These sections of hair have also been lifted 90° to the head 90° Try this Draw a line to show a section of hair that has been lifted 45° to the head. This hair is held down close to head at a 0° angle 45° Hair taken from the back of the head at 0° angle is pulled up in the opposite direction at 180° 180° 8

Factors FACTORS TO CONSIDER BEFORE CUTTING HAIR Hair type Hair type can affect the choice of style and cutting techniques. Curly hair will spring up after the hair has been cut once it has dried. Consider the amount of tension you place on the hair during the cutting service. Straight hair might not achieve the desired result, so products, styling tools and even a body perm may need to be considered to achieve the result. Texture Texture can affect the choice of style and cutting technique. Coarse textured hair may not suit the desired look; you will need to recommend smoothing products to help achieve the result. Density Density can affect the choice of style and cutting technique. Abundant hair may need to be thinned out to create the desired look. Consider whether abundant hair will complement the look; if not, suggest alternatives. Sparse hair will need to be blunt cut/club cut to maintain as much thickness as possible. Avoid cutting the hair too short, but equally avoid suggesting keeping fine hair long. 9

Factors Hair growth patterns Hair growth patterns can affect the choice of style and cutting technique. For cowlicks avoid fringes; instead, suggest a side half fringe the works with the cowlick. For widow’s peaks avoid fringes completely and suggest styles that are styled with the top area going over to one side or straight back. For double crowns suggest maintaining a little length around the crown area and ideally work the natural fall into the style. For nape whorls suggest maintaining the length at the nape area, or at least a little weight. Avoid cutting into the hairline. Head and face shape The head and face shape can affect the choice of style. Always aim to achieve a style which makes the face look oval shaped. For round face shapes, avoid styles that add more roundness, such as too much width or height. Try to suggest styles that come onto the face. For oblong face shapes, avoid styles that come onto the face; encourage width, avoid height and suggest a fringe to shorten the illusion of a long shape. For square face shapes, suggest softer styles that soften the jawline. Oval Round Oblong Square 10

Limiting Factors Profiles As well as considering the shape of the client’s face, we must also look and check his/her profile and take these factors into consideration (e.g. long nose, neck, chin etc). Small or Large Forehead If the client has a small face and forehead then the hair should be taken straight back off the face. If there is a large face and forehead then the hair should be dressed onto the forehead or a fringe given. Small or Large Nose To help counteract a large nose the hair should be brought around the face, particularly over the forehead. Hair should not be taken straight back off the face or given a centre parting as this will accentuate a large nose and emphasise a small nose. Prominent Chin A long chin should be covered as much as possible with hair. A receding chin should be empathised by taking the hair up and away from the chin. Fringes These are useful to hide large foreheads, receding hairlines and a large nose, but if the client wears glasses only half a fringe should be worn. The rest of the hair should be taken away from the face as much as possible. Long Neck Even if the hair is worn short it is advisable to leave the nape hair a little longer. Hair should be swept straight up. Partings Partings have many uses; they can easily affect the appearance and shape of a person’s head. Low partings make a client’s head look rounder. A high parting will make a broad head look narrower and an entire parting will show up an ugly and unattractive nose. A parting will also correct a feature fault ( e.g. crooked nose, if the nose goes to the left the parting should also go the left). 11

Technical Facts Preparing for the cut Dry Haircutting You must check the hair while it is dry to see how the client is currently wearing their hairstyle, to identify any natural hair growth patterns and to feel the density and texture of the hair. Always carry out a porosity test on dry hair prior to the service. Freehand and scissors over comb cutting techniques are best carried out on dry hair. Thinning scissors and clippers should only be used on dry hair. 12

Technical Facts Wet Haircutting Always carry out an elasticity test on wet hair. Once the hair has been shampooed and prepared for the service, check through the hair to identify the natural parting. On wet hair you will be able to see the hair type in its natural state, such as curly or straight, and recheck the movement of the hair. The elasticity in the hair allows wet hair to be stretched up to 50% of its original length, and you must consider this when you are cutting the hair wet, as the dried result could be much shorter than you or your client anticipated. Guidelines The guideline is the most important part of the haircut. If you are cutting and lose your guideline – STOP! The guideline determines the finished length of the cut and the overall shape and balance. Without a guideline you can not work methodically through the haircut or maintain accuracy. Even the most experienced stylists will follow a guideline. Guidelines are the first cuts of the hairstyle. Your first cut in a baseline length; once the length has been agreed with your client, this becomes your guideline for the length of the haircut. Once the baseline length has been agreed and cut, you are ready to begin the guideline for the internal layers of the hair, This internal guideline will help you achieve the shape of the style. Again, agree the desired length of the layers with your client and then cut in your internal guideline to suit the angle at which the hair will be cut. 13

One length 14

One Length Above Shoulders Start by sectioning off a central parting through to the nape. Take a horizontal section from ear to ear creating four sections. Using section clips, clip the two front sections away. Please Note – If cutting to a parting, section off to the parting through the top. Take a downward ‘V’ section at the nape and cutting onto the gown or skin, cut the guide to desired length using little or no tension depending on growth patterns. Follow the created guide using small sections up to the crown area continuing to cut either on the gown or skin. As you start working through to the sides start angling the hair slightly down to avoid the one length from rising through the front sections. Please Note – Continually check for graduation and balance. Work through to the sides using vertical sections, continuing to work on a slight angle and work up to the parting. Please Note – Very important to use no tension when cutting the over the ears, if tension is used the hair will rise over the ear creating an incorrect shape. 15

One Length Above Shoulders Repeat on the other side checking the mirror balance after every section. If the client has a fringe, now is the time personalize the haircut. Please see page 28. Once the hair is blow dried, check for graduation using a freehand technique. Make sure you move the clients head forward to check for any underneath graduation. 16

One Length Below Shoulders Start by sectioning off a central parting through to the nape. Take a horizontal section from ear to ear creating four sections. Using section clips, clip the two front sections away. Please Note – If cutting to a parting, section off to the parting through the top. Take a download ‘V’ section at the nape and cutting onto the gown or skin cut the guide to desired length using little or no tension depending on growth patterns. Follow the created guide using small sections up to the crown area continuing to cut either on the gown or skin. As you start working through to the sides start angling the hair slightly down to avoid the one length from rising through the front sections. Please Note – Continually check for graduation and balance. Work through the sides by over directing hair behind the shoulders to avoid creating an ‘arc’ baseline. Please Note – If a client prefers an arc shape then the hair can be cut with no over direction and directly cut over the shoulders. 17

One Length Below Shoulders Repeat on the other side checking the mirror balance after every section. If the client has a fringe, now is the time to personalise the Haircut. Please see page 28 Once the hair is blow dried, check for graduation using a freehand technique. Make sure to move the clients head forward to check for any underneath graduation. 18

Short Graduation 19

Short Graduation Take a horizontal section from ear to ear. Using vertical sections cut hair at a 45 degree angle. Once the section is complete cross check with horizontal sections. Continue at a 45 degree angle up to the crown area. Cross check the back section with horizontal sectioning. Please note – you could run out of hair as you work towards the crown area. Continue with the same angle through to the side. Continue through to the other side and cross check. Use the mirror to check for balance and weight. 20

Short Graduation Take a new guideline for the top section (often referred to as box section) and cut the whole top section at a 90 degree angle. Take of the corner by holding hair at 90 degrees working from temple to temple. Please Note – How much of the corner comes off differs from client to client. Personalise the look cutting the fringe and outline using a combination of texturising techniques. Please Note – This is personal to the client’s requirements. 21

Uniform Layer 22

Uniform Layer Start by placing a guide through the highest point of the head and follow at 90 degrees from forehead to nape following the head shape. This creates a profile line. From the same guide, cut from ear to ear at 90 degrees following the head shape. This creates four quarters. Clip away the front two sections and start on one of the back sections. Working in vertical ‘orange like segments’ take a small section next to the central guide, making sure you can see the guide cut at the same 90 degree angle. Continue working this way until you reach the guide above the ear. Cross check thoroughly before moving to the next section. Please Note – Do not cut under any circumstances if cannot see a guideline! Do exactly the same on the second quarter and again cross check the back section using horizontal sections. 23

Uniform Layer Once the back is complete, start working through the top section with horizontal sections either side of the profile line working through to the front continuing following the head shape at 90 degrees. Cross check thoroughly with vertical sections. Working on the outline pull all the hair forward cut to the same original length and work down both sides. Please Note – This can be done using different cutting techniques depending on the clients requirements. Join the sides by cutting the baseline to create a rounded outline. Once dry work through the cut personalising to the client’s requirements, this could involve a combination of freehand and texturising techniques. 24

Long Graduation 25

Long Graduation Cut Start by cutting the baseline to see how this is done please see page 17 Start the layer by taking a section at the highest point of the head pulling it up to 90 degrees and cutting to the desired length. Work the guide from ear to ear pulling up to the required angle. Please Note – The angle you pull up to determines the amount of layering and the finished look. This ranges between 135 degrees and 180 degrees. This cut is straight up at 180 degrees and is also referred to as basic layering. Using the same guide add a profile guide, creating four sections. 26

Long Graduation Cut Take a section through the back of the head next to the central guide; include the guide and pull the section up at 180 degrees, when you see the central guide above your fingers cut to the same length. Using ‘orange segment’ sections continue this process until you reach the guide above the ear. Cross check thoroughly before moving on to the next. Complete the second back section in the same way. Once this is completed, cross check the whole of the back section before moving on to the front sections. Now working through the front, take a horizontal section in front of the original ear to ear guide and down either side of the profile guide, pull hair up to guide and continue working to the front of the head. Please Note – This can be done one side at a time depending on preference. To tidy the front section pull all the hair forward and cut straight across until you meet with the baseline. This is important as this is what the client will see. Please Note – This is not forward graduation. If the client requires the front shorter, follow guide for forward graduation page 31 Dry to the desired result before thoroughly checking through the cut. This could include softening or texturising techniques to achieve the required effect. Use the mirror to check the balance and ask questions to ensure the best result. 27

PERSONALISING THE HAIRCUT Side Fringe Full Fringe Forward Graduation Scissor Over Comb/Tapering 28

Fringes Side Fringes 1. When the hair is dry, take a half triangle section from the parting to the Temple area. ‘’ Do not go further then the Temple area (eyebrow) as you will Cut into the haircut’’ The further back the section is taken, the thicker the fringe” 2. Cut the fringe on an angle to get the desired length ‘’ You can cut through the comb or your fingers’’ ‘’ Be aware not to put too much tension on the hair” ‘’ If you hold the fringe close to the forehead when cutting You create a sharp fringe, if you direct the hair away from The forehead it will create a softer fringe” 29

Full Fringes 1. A triangle section is taken through the Fringe area. The further back the section the thicker the fringe will be. 2. A fine Horizontal sections is taken and a guide line is cut in using minimum tension. This is to allow for hair growth patterns. 3. Continue sections to complete fringe following guidelines. ‘’ If you hold the fringe close to the forehead when cutting You create a sharp fringe, if you direct the hair away from The forehead it will create a softer fringe” 30

Forward Graduation 1. The back is sectioned away from the Front using an Alice band section 2. An inch backward diagonal section is taken and combed to the hairs natural fall 3. The hair is cut from the shortest to longest point on required angle The hair above the ear is the Longest point and guideline for the length ‘’ Do not cut this’’ 4. Backward diagonal sections are then taken to meet the Alice band section and guideline is followed. 31

5. Follow 1 to 4 on opposite side “Check balance by using the mirror” Take a section from above The ear on each side, pull both down, use mirror to check. Take A section from the very front on each side and repeat ‘’ You can start your forward graduation from the bottom and work up to avoid cutting the length ‘’ 32

I know and understand the principles of positive communication  I know why clients should be protected from loose hair clippings I can utilise a range of cutting techniques and know when to use them in my work I know how the angle at which hair is held and cut is critical to the finished effect I always carry out working practices according to the salons policy I know why I should keep the area hygienic and clean I know when and to whom to refer clients, in situations where external assistance is required I understand the necessity of personal hygiene and presentation I know how to work with the natural lie and fall of the hair I know that my posture and the clients seated position is important for accuracy and health and safety aspects I know how and why I should cross-check the cut during and after the service CHECKER BOARD Try this.. At what angle is this section of hair held? Preparing for assessment checklist Remember to:-  Prepare clients correctly for the services you are going to carry out  Put on the protective wear available for styling and dressing hair  Listen to the clients requirements and discuss suitable courses of action  Adhere to the safety factors when working on client’s hair  Keep the work areas clean, hygienic and free from hazards  Promote the range of services, products and treatments within the salon  Clean and sterilize the tools and equipment before it is used  Work carefully and methodically through the processes of cutting hair whether wet or dry  Place, position and direct the hair appropriately to achieve the desired effect  Communicate what you are doing with the client as well as your fellow staff members 33

Glossary of Terms Tension – the Strength/Pull at which a section is held. Texturing – a variety of cutting techniques used to create different effects within a hairstyle. Personalising – finishing a style and making it individual to the client. Balance/ Shape – physical aspects and evenness that control the look of the style. Hair Growth Patterns – areas of the hair that could disturb the required look. Club Cutting – method of cutting where hair is cut bluntly and straight across, this is used in both layering and one length cuts. Freehand Cutting – mainly used on straighter hair to create the profile or perimeter shape. Scissor Over Comb – used to produce contours, layered shapes and close cuts. Used on dry hair cutting through the comb. Thinning – used to reduce bulk, can be done with scissors. Thinning scissors may also be used to add texture or softness. Graduation – a cutting angle that joins either longer to shorter or shorter to longer hair in one continuous cutting angle. The Holding Angle – the angle at which the hair is held out from the head. The Cutting Angle – the angle at which the scissors, razors etc. cuts the hair. Weight Distribution – the overall balance of the hair cut. Cross Checking - cross check by taking sections the opposite direction, to the way the hair was cut. 34

We Value You For our people, learners, and employers in how we make our decisions in meeting the objectives within recognition etc PROFESSIONALISM CARE Is how we are with our Learner / Employer partner is how we promote and develop the Academy. Is how we approach and challenge tasks/duties. PASSION Is what we feel and how we bring this to others, staff, learners, employers and that we maintain and develop this within Industry. IMAGE How we look to others not only in appearance but in what we are. Academy looks/Presentation Standards resources etc. QUALITY Is what this is in looks, detail, level of accuracy, standards of work and within presentation and delivering style etc. 35

“Educate In Order To Innovate” Reflections Training Academy Unit 2a/2b Commercial Street Birmingham B1 1RS TEL: FAX: Reflections Training Academy 15a Colston Street Bristol BS1 5AP TEL: FAX: Reflections, Reflections House, 26 Oakfield Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2AT.House of Clive (Hair and Beauty) limited. VAT reg No: Registered in England. No:

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