Chapter 20 Objective: To emphasize the client’s most attractive facial features while minimizing those features that are less attractive

Objective Varies from client to client Based on face shape analysis and client’s individual needs Consider face structure, eye color, skin and hair, client’s wants and the results you can realistically achieve

Foundations Foundation evens skin tone and color conceals minor imperfections of the skin protects the skin from climate, dirt and debris Available in liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, and tinted moisturizer.

Chemistry Cream predominantly water, mineral oil, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, lanolin derivatives, borax and insoluble pigments Generally suited for dry to normal skin and give medium to full coverage

Chemistry Liquid Suspensions of organic and inorganic pigments in alcohol and water-based solutions Generally suited for clients with oily to normal skin conditions and sheer to medium coverage.

Chemistry Powder Consist of a powder base mixed with a coloring agent and perfume Effective for oily skin

Chemistry Cream - to - powder Moist on application but dries to a powdery finish

Using Foundation Skin tone determines the selection of foundation color warm : yellow, orange, or red-orange cool : blue, blue-green (olive), or blue-red (pink) neutral : equal amounts of warm and cool tones

Selection Match as closely to actual skin tone If too light, it will have a chalky or gray appearance If too dark, it will look dirty or muddy. Determine correct foundation color applying a stripe of color to clean skin on the jaw line blend slightly color that “disappears” on the skin is the correct tone

Concealers Used to cover blemishes and discoloration. Available in pots, pencils, wands and tubes/sticks. chemistry: composition is similar to cream foundations using concealer : removed from container w/a spatula and applied w/a concealer brush or sponge. Match color to skin as closely as possible

Face Powder Fine cosmetic powder, used to add a matte or dull finish to the face Improves attractiveness of the skin by enhancing the skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor blemishes and discoloration's Toning down excessive color and shine Also used to set the foundation

Face Powder Chemistry loose powder & pressed powder have the same basic composition pressed powders are compressed & held together w/ binders ingredients include talc, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, kaolin, chalk, zinc stearate, & magnesium sterate

Face Powder Using Face Powder available in a variety of tints, shades & different weights light & medium weights are best for dry to normal skin heavier weight is effective on normal to oily skin should match natural skin tone & work well w/foundation

Cheek Color Also called blush, blusher or rouge cream or powder cosmetic used to color the cheeks & skin beneath the cheekbones creates more attractive facial contours

Cheek Color Chemistry is compact or pressed powder w/ coloring added Oil based cream cheek color combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water- resistant product

Cheek Color Using cheek color liquid - blends well & suitable for all skin types apply w/ a facial sponge Cream or gel resemble cream foundation & preferred for dry & normal skin applied w/ a facial sponge

Cheek Color dry ( pressed ) imparts a matte finish & is the most widely used applied w/ a brush or cotton puff loose variety of shades & tints used to add color to contour the cheeks applied w/ a facial puff

Cheek Color General rules for application apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear in cheeks do not apply the color in toward the nose beyond the center of the eye keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of the nose

Cheek Color do not extend color above the outer corner of the eye do not apply color in a bright, round circle blend the color so that it fades softly into the foundation

Lip Color Also called lipstick or gloss A cosmetic in paste form, available in a variety of colors Used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips Some contain sunscreen, others contain moisturizers

Lip Color Chemistry available in variety of forms cream, glosses, pencils, gels & sticks all are formulas of oils, waxes & dyes castor oil is the primary ingredient others use olive, mineral, sesame, cocoa butter, petroleum lecithin & hydrogenated vegetable oils

Lip Color Using Lip Color consider client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone & lip shape do not apply directly from container, unless it belongs to the client use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container & take it from the spatula w/ a disposable lip brush

Lip Liner Used to outline the lips Also helps keep lip color from feathering Coordinate lip liner w/ chosen lip color Sharpen the lip liner & sanitize the sharpener before every use

Eye Shadow Applied on the eyelids to accentuate or contour them Available in almost every color & in a variety of finishes metallic, matte, frost, shimmer or dewy

Eye Shadow Chemistry cream shadows water based w/ oil, petrolatum, thickener, wax, perfume, preservatives & color added powder shadow composed much the same as pressed face powder & powdered cheek color

Eye Shadow Using eye shadow makes eyes appear brighter & more expressive darker shade eye color makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper make-up colors should enhance the client’s eyes

Eye Shadow Forms stick, cream, pressed & dry powder form Colors highlight color lighter that client’s skin tone & may have any finish highlight a specific area such as brow bone lighter color will make an area appear larger

Eye Shadow Base color medium tone that is close to client’s skin tone used to even skin tone on the eye applied all over lid & brow bone before other colors are applied Contour color deeper & darker than client’s skin tone applied to minimize specific area, to create contour in crease or define eyelash line

Eyeliner Used to outline & emphasize eye available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake ) or felt tip pen make eyes appear larger & lashes fuller Chemistry consist of wax ( paraffin ) or hardened oil base ( petrolatum ) w/ variety of additives to create color

Eyeliner CAUTION: According to the American Medical Association, eye pencils should not be used to color the inner rim of the eyes, because this can lead to infection of the tear duct, causing tearing, blurring of vision & permanent pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the inside of the eye

Eyeliner Using eyeliner be cautious when applying have steady hand sharpen eyeliner & sanitize the sharpener before each use

Eyebrow Color Eyebrow pencils or shadows used to add color & shape to the eyebrows Can darken the eyebrows fill in sparse areas correct misshapen brows

Eyebrow Color Using eyebrow color sharpen pencil & sanitize sharpener before each use

Mascara Used to darken, define & thicken eyelashes Available in liquid, cake & cream form Enhances natural lashes, making them appear thicker & longer Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows

Mascara Chemistry polymer products that include water, wax, thickeners, film-formers & preservatives in their formulation pigments are carbon black, carmine, ultramarine, chromium oxide, & iron oxides some contain rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen& thicken hair fibers

Mascara Using mascara may be use on all lashes from the inner to outer corners dispose of the wand never double-dip

Other Cosmetics Eye makeup removers oil-based or water based used to remove make- up Grease paint heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes

Other Cosmetics Cake or pancake makeup shaped, solid mass applied to face w/ moistened cosmetic sponge good coverage covers scars & pigmentation defects

Make-up Brushes & Tools

Summary Makeup has a magical quality that speaks to both the cosmetologist and the client When applying makeup, you must take into consideration the structure of the face; the color of the eyes, skin & hair; how the client wants to look;& the results you can realistically achieve