1. Facial Makeup
Copyright 2013 © SAP

2. OBJECTIVES To emphasize the client’s most attractive features
To minimize the features that are less attractive
To make an accurate analysis of client’s face shape and her individual needs
To consider face structure and color of eyes, skin, and hair

3. FOUNDATIONS Even skin tone Conceal minor imperfections
Protect skin from climate and dirt
Come in
cream form
liquid form
powder form
Cream-to-powder form

4. USING FOUNDATION
Skin tone determines the selection of foundation color.
Warm tones are generally yellow, orange, or red-orange.
Cool tones are generally blue, blue-green (olive), or blue-red (pink).
Neutral skin has equal amounts of warm and cool tones.
Match foundation as closely as possible to natural skin tone. Color should disappear on the skin.

5. CONCEALERS
Use concealers to cover blemishes and discolorations. They are available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks.
Remove concealers from container with a spatula and apply with a concealer brush or sponge. Match color to skin as closely as possible.

6. FACE POWDERS Add a matte or dull finish
Conceal blemishes and discolorations
Tone down excessive color and shine
Come in variety of tints, weights
Light to medium weight good for dry to normal skin
Heavy weight good for oily skin

7. CHEEK COLOR Also called blush or rouge
Creates more attractive facial contour
Comes in
liquid format
cream or gel format
dry (pressed) format
loose powder format

8. RULES FOR APPLICATION OF CHEEK COLOR
Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear on cheeks.
Keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of the nose.
Do not extend color above the outer corner of the eye.
Do not apply color in a bright, round circle.
Blend color so that it fades softly into the foundation.

9. LIP COLOR Also called lipstick or gloss
Comes in variety of colors with optional sunscreen and moisturizers
Lip liner
used to outline the lips.
coordinate liner with lip color.
sharpen liners with every use.

10. EYE SHADOW Applied on eyelids Comes in variety of colors and finishes
Forms
Stick
Cream
Pressed
Dry powder

11. USING EYE SHADOW It makes the eyes appear bright and expressive.
Darker color makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter; just the opposite with lighter shadow.
Color should enhance the client’s eyes.
Highlight color is lighter than skin tone. Use on a specific area such as the brow bone.
Base color is usually a medium tone. Use to even skin tone around eyes. Apply all over the lid before other colors.
Contour color is a darker tone. Apply to minimize a certain area, to create contour, or to define the eyelash line.

12. EYELINER Outlines the eye
Available in pencil, liquid, pressed, or felt tip pen form
Makes the eyes appear larger and lashes fuller
Application
Be cautious when applying.
Use steady hand.
Sharpen the liner and sanitize sharpener before each use.

13. CAUTION
According to the American Medical Association, eye pencils should not be used to color the inner rim of the eyes.
The danger is infection of the tear duct causing tearing, blurring of vision, and permanent pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the inside of the eye.

14. EYEBROW COLOR
Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows.
They can darken the eyebrow, fill in sparse areas, or correct misshapen brows.

15. MASCARA Used to darken, define, and thicken eyelashes
Makes lashes appear thicker and longer
Application
Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows.
Dispose of wand.
Never double-dip.

16. MAKEUP BRUSHES Come in a variety of shapes and sizes
Are made of synthetic or animal hair
Have wooden or metal handles
Clean up with commercial sanitizer or mild shampoo for cleaning

17. MAKEUP COLOR THEORY
PRIMARY COLORS
Red
Yellow
Blue

18. SECONDARY COLORS Mix equal parts of two primary colors to obtain:
Orange (yellow + red)
Violet (red + blue)
Green (yellow + blue)

19. TERTIARY COLORS
Mix equal parts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color:
Yellow-Orange
Yellow-Green
Blue-Green
Blue-Violet
Red-Violet
Red-Orange

20. COMPLEMENTARY COLORS
Primary and secondary colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel are complementary.
When mixed, they cancel each other out to create a neutral brown or gray color.

21. WARM AND COOL COLORS
Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and some yellow-greens.
Cool colors are dominated by the blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds.

22. SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR
Consider skin, eye, and hair color.
Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark.
Light skin color—Use light colors for a natural look and dark colors for a dramatic look.
Medium skin color—Medium tones will create more of a understated look. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast and appear bolder.
Dark skin color—Dark colors will be subtle; medium or light will be striking and vivid.

23. COLOR FOR EYES Neutrals are always the safest choice
Complementary colors are determined thus:
Blue eyes—Orange: Choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel.
Green eyes—Red: Choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, and violet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples.
Brown eyes—neutral and can wear any contrasting colors such as greens, blues, grays, and silvers.

24. HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR
CHEEK AND LIP COLOR
Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup.
HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR
Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.

25. COLOR SELETION STEPS Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark.
Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc.
Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral.
Determine complementary colors.
Determine hair color: warm or cool.
Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors.
Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral.
Apply makeup.

26. CLIENT CONSULTATION Keep the area clean.
Keep a portfolio of your work.
Ensure good lighting for everything.
Gather information and record on consultation card.
Skin condition
Makeup worn daily
Special occasion makeup
Time spent on makeup
Color likes and dislikes

27. SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP
Choose striking contour eyes.
Choose dramatic smoky eyes.
Add darker, lighter, or shimmery color to the cheeks.
Apply liner color to the lips; fill in with pencil and blot.
Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.

28. CORRECTIVE MAKEUP
Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with correct shadowing or shading, and balanced with the proper hairstyle.
A basic rule is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, whereas shadowing minimizes it.

29. ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE
The basic rule of makeup application is to emphasize the client’s attractive features while minimizing features that are less appealing.
The goal is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard.

30. OVAL-SHAPED FACE
Artistically ideal proportions and features

31. ROUND FACE Broader in proportion to its length
Rounded chin and hairline
Corrective makeup to slenderize and lengthen the face

32. SQUARE-SHAPED FACE
Composed of straight lines with a wide forehead and square jawline
Corrective makeup to offset the squareness and soften the hard lines around the face

33. TRIANGULAR (PEAR-SHAPED) FACE
Jaw wider than the forehead
Corrective makeup to create width at the forehead, slenderize the jawline, and add length to the face.

34. INVERTED TRIANGLE (HEART-SHAPE) FACE
A wide forehead and narrow, pointed chin
Corrective makeup to minimize the width of the forehead and increase the width of the jawline

35. DIAMOND-SHAPED FACE
Narrow forehead with the greatest width across the cheekbones
Corrective makeup to reduce the width across the cheekbone line

36. OBLONG FACE
Greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face
Long and narrow
Corrective makeup to create the illusion of width across the cheekbone line, making the face appear shorter

37. FOREHEAD AREA
Low forehead—Applying a lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between the brows and hairline.
Protruding forehead—Applying a darker foundation over the prominent area gives an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face and minimizes the bulging forehead.

38. NOSE AND CHIN AREAS
Large or protruding nose—Apply a darker foundation on the nose and a lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the nose. Avoid placing cheek color close to the nose.
Protruding chin and receding chin—Highlight the chin by using a lighter foundation than the one used on the face.

39. SHORT AND FLAT NOSE
Apply a lighter foundation down the center of the nose, ending at the tip.
If the nostrils are wide, apply a darker foundation to both sides of the nostrils.

40. BROAD NOSE
Use darker foundation on the sides of the nose and nostrils.

41. CHIN AREA
For a sagging double chin, use a darker foundation on the sagging portion and use a natural skin tone foundation on the face.

42. JAWLINE AND NECK AREA
Blend the foundation onto the neck so that the client’s color is consistent from face to neck; set with translucent powder.

43. CORRECTIVE MAKEUP FOR THE EYES
Round eyes—Extend the shadow beyond outer corner of the eye.
Close-set eyes—Lightly apply shadow up from the outer edge of the eye.
Bulging eyes—Blend shadow over the prominent part of the upper lid toward the eyebrow.
Heavy-lidded eyes—Shadow evenly across lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket.

44. EYEBROWS
The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. The ideal shape can be drawn in three lines.

45. THE LIPS
Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils.
Lips can be very full, very thin, or uneven.
Large, full lips

46. ARTIFICIAL EYELASHES
Band lashes—also called strip lashes, are eyelashes on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line.
Eyelash adhesive is a product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick, to the natural lash line.
To remove, use commercial preparation, or soften lash base by applying a face cloth with warm water and a facial cleanser.

47. INDIVIDUAL LASHES
Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time
Synthetic and attach directly to a client’s own lashes at their base
Also called eye tabbing
Last about six to eight weeks

48. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wash your hands before and after every application.
Properly drape client.
Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair.
Keep your fingernails smooth.
Use only sanitized brushes and implements.
Use a shaker-type container for loose powder.

49. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Pour all lotions from bottle containers.
Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars.
Never apply lip color directly from container to the client’s lips.
Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid infection.
Discard all disposable items.
Keep workstation sanitary, neat, and well organized.

50. SUMMARY We have identified basic facial types.
The oval-shaped face is artistically the ideal proportion.
Shadowing and highlighting create illusions.
Corrective makeup can be used for unflattering features.
Effective makeup application will make you very valuable to your clients.