1. Haircutting
Ch #16

2. Principles of Haircutting
good haircuts begin with an understanding of the shape of the head
________________________________ ________________________________ ____________________

3. Reference Points
Apex
Parietal Ridge
Occipital Bone
Four Corners

4. Areas of the head
Top
Front
Sides
Crown
Nape
Back
Fringe

5. Lines & Angles Every haircut is made up of lines and angles
Line - thin continuous mark used as a guide
Angle- space between 2 lines that intersect at a given point
2 basic lines used in haircutting are straight & curved

6. Lines & Angles cont’d Horizontal Vertical Diagonal
Beveling - (aka- stacking) techniques using diagonal lines to create angles by cutting the ends of the hair with a slight increase or decrease in length

7. Lines & Angles cont’d
Straight lines
Angles

8. Straight lines
Straight Lines
Horizontal
Vertical
Diagonal

9. Angles
Angles: beveling, stacking

10. Elevation
Elevation: ________________________ ________________________ ________________________
Sections: ________________________ ________________________
Subsections: ________________________
Graduation: ________________________ ________________________

11. Graduation _________ 90 degrees: __________ weight

12. Cutting Line
is the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that creates the end shape
aka - finger position, finger angle, cutting position

13. Guidelines _____________________________________________
can be located at the perimeter (outer line) or interior or inner line

14. Overdirection
________________________________ ________________________________

15. elevation examples
45-degree with 90-degree
Overdirection

16. Tools
Shears - commonly called scissors. Mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines, slide cut, or point cut
Texturizing shears - mainly used to remove bulk, also called thinning shears, tapering or notching shears

17. Types of Texturizing Shears
Chunking 5-9 teeth
texturizing teeth
thinning teeth
blending teeth

18. Razor
straight razor or feather blades mainly used when a softer effect on the ends of the hair is desired

19. Clipper & Trimmers
Clippers - mainly used when creating short haircuts, short tapers, fades, and flat tops
Trimmers - (aka- edgers) mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears & crisp outlines

20. About Shears mainly manufactured in 2 countries Japan & Germany
Hardness will determine how long the edge will hold without having to be sharpened
Rockwell hardness of 56 or 57 is ideal
Rockwell of 63 or more will make the shear brittle

21. Forged vs. Cast
cast - molten steel is poured into mold. disadvantage air bubbles can occur and shear can shatter, significantly less expensive
forged - made by hammering or pressing metal into a finished shape, last much longer than cast shears

22. Parts of a shear Cutting edge Pivot Adjustment knob Finger tang
Ring-finger hole
Thumb hole
Still Blade

23. Shear Maintenance Daily cleaning and lubrication
Daily tension adjustment and balancing
Weekly cleaning and lubrication
Disinfecting shears
Sharpening shears

24. Purchasing Shears Hold shears in hand. Consider dominant hand design
Know how manufactured
Learn about steel quality
Decide on correct blade edge
Select best handle design
Be sure of fit
Hold shears in hand.
Swivel thumb shears.
Learn about service agreement.
Ask about warranty.
Analyze cost.
Determine how many needed.

25. Holding Shears

26. Palming shears

27. Posture & Body Position
Position the client.
Sitting straight
____________________________
Center your weight.
Knees slightly bent, not locked
Bend one knee to lean slightly
Stand in front of section being cut.

28. Safety in haircutting Palm shears. Do not cut past second knuckle.
Take care around ears.
Balance shears and place knuckles.
Use razor guard.
Dispose of blades carefully.

29. General Haircutting Tips
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Be aware of potential danger zones. (ears)

30. Basic Haircuts Blunt haircut Weight line Stationary guide used
Graduated haircut
Visual buildup of weight
Ends appear stacked
Traveling guide used

31. More basic haircuts Layered haircut Less weight than graduated cuts
Creates movement and volume
Long layered haircut
Gives volume to styles
Can be combined with other cuts
Layers increase form; short to longer toward perimeter
Men’s basic clipper cut

32. The Graduated Haircut Graduated haircut
Classic graduated bob
Wedge
Shorter shape with rounded weight
Keep elevation below 45 degrees with coarse textures and curly hair.
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Check neckline carefully before cutting short.
Always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure a precise line.

33. Layered Haircuts Uniformed layered haircut Long-layered haircut
Men’s basic clipper cut
Pixie, Caesar
Squared layers
Shag
Faceframe

34. Layered Haircut Tips Cut the interior first.
Do not cut thin hair too short.
Do not cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches in length.
Do not cut top layers too short.
Use slide cutting to connect top sections to lengths.
Work with guideline.
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Use mirror to see elevation.
Check both sides by standing in front.

35. Cutting Curly Hair ____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Naturally “graduates” itself
Expands more than straight hair
Texturizing techniques

36. Razor Cutting Razor parallel to subsection at 45-degree angle
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Effective with blonde hair
Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair.
Always use a guard.
Always use a new blade.
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Hold razor at an angle; never force.

37. Slide Cutting Used to cut or thin hair Blends shorter hair to longer
Useful in texturizing
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38. Scissor over comb Hair held in place with comb.
Shear tips remove length.
Method used to create short tapers.
Works best on dry hair.
Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide.
Do not hold hair between fingers.
Shears and comb move up head together.
Strive for continual motion.
Work with small areas.
Start at hairline and work up.
Cross-check work diagonally.
Use barber comb for close areas.
Stand in front of client.
Place comb.
Move comb up head.
_________________________________________

39. Texturizing
_________________________________ - performed on the ends of the hair using the tips or points of the shear, can be done on wet or dry hair
_________________________________- snipping out pieces of hair at random intervals, generally used on an interior section rather than the ends
_________________________________ - process of thinning, strand is cut by a sliding movement with the blades keep partially opened
_____________ - use only portion of blade near pivot, best with dry hair
_____________ - version of slicing that creates a visual separation, best on short hair
Carving the ends - add texture and separation to the perimeter begin 3 inches from ends

40. Texturizing

41. Clipper Cutting Tips
Work against natural growth pattern for maximum removal
Work in small sections (no wider than 3 inches).
Determine comb angle.