1. Rainbow

2. ART AND SCIENCE OF HAIR COLOR OBJECTIVES
What is COLOR? Law of Color Color Wheel: Basic Color Theory
Identifying Existing Hair color
Understanding Natural Pigment
The Level System/ 7 Stages of Enlightening
Haircolor Chemistry/ Types of Haircolor
Analysis/ Hair Color Consultation
Aveda Applications
Aveda Full Spectrum Hair Color/Aveda Enlightenment Blonding
Foiling Techniques/Dimensional Color Placement

3. Color surrounds us, interacts with our bodies and energies, affects our moods and makes things appear warm or cool, exciting or calming.
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5. It was Sir Isaac Newton who, in the 17th century discovered that the white light from sun contains all the colors we see. He proved this by separating the colors of the rainbow through a glass prism.
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6. Chromatic color is the colors of the rainbow
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7. Achromatic color is white, black, and shades of grey
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8. Law of Color
The first theory of color is that white is the combination of all colors in the light spectrum reflected. Conversely, black is a combination of all colors in the light spectrum absorbed.

9. Law of Color 13.1 A system for understanding color relationships.
When combining colors you will always get the same result from the same combination.

10. The Color Wheel 13.1 Primary Colors Secondary Colors Blue Red Orange
Yellow
Secondary Colors
Orange
Green
Violet

11. The Color Wheel Tertiary Colors 13.1 Red /Orange Yellow /Orange
Yellow /Green
Blue /Green
Blue /Violet
Red /Violet

12. Tone is described as Warmth or Coolness
13.1
Tone is described as Warmth or Coolness
Warm Colors-
R R/O O Y/O Y
Neutral Color-
R/V Y/G
Cool Colors-
V B/V B B/G G

14. Neutralizing and Complementary Color
13.1
Neutralizing and Complementary Color
Colors positioned opposite each other on color wheel
Neutralize each other
Primary missing
All three primary colors when mixed will also create a shade of brown
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15. The brightness, vividness or the strength of a color tone
Intensity of Tone
The brightness, vividness or the strength of a color tone
Can be strong, medium, mild
13.1

16. How does Color Theory relate to Hair Color?
By realizing the saturation of blue, red, yellow will determine the darkness of the color.
Hair Color can be described in two ways:
level (darkness or lightness)
tone (the characteristic of color)
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17. The Level System
13.1
Level refers to the depth of color according to the natural lightness and darkness of the hair.
it also refers to the measurement of lightness or darkness that can be achieved with permanent hair color.
Color ranges from Level 1(black) to a Level 10(lightest blonde)
**11/12 Hi Lift Blondes
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18. 13.1
Level / Tone
When using hair color to lift the level, tones can be selected to change the characteristic of the shade.
Tone :: Natural, ash, gold, copper, red, red/violet, red
Adding tones can also make lift appear different.
Warm tones reflect more light and may appear slightly lighter.
Cool tones absorb the light and may make the lift appear slightly darker.
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19. Hair Structure Composition of Hair
The Cuticle is the outer layer of the Hair
The Medulla is the tubular core at the center of the hair shaft and often absent in hair strands.
The cortex is the middle layer. It is the largest and most important part of the hair. It is inside of the cortex of each hair strand that nature creates natural hair coloring with a substance called Melanin.
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20. Composition of the Hair
13.2
Hair is composed of a protein called Keratin
It is found throughout all three layers of the hair strand
TRICHOLOGY REVIEW
Melanocytes- pigment producing cells
Melanosomes- protein packets that surround melanin
Melanin- pigment you are born with

21. Melanocytes Produce
13.2
Eumelanin:
The natural black to deep red pigment which gives dark color to the hair
Pheomelanin:
The natural red to pale yellow pigment which gives light color to the hair
Mixed Melanin- Both types are present in one melanin granule The Natural color of the hair is determined by:
Type of Melanin
Amount of Melanin
How closely packed or scattered the melanin is within the cortex

22. Decolorization Process/ Stages of Lightening
13.2
Granular colors (black and brown) lift quickly and easily because they are bigger and fewer (Eumelanin)
Diffused colors (red and yellow) lift slowly because they are smaller and more concentrated (Pheomelanin)
NATURAL MELANIN +ARTIFICIAL PIGMENT=
FINAL COLOR RESULTS
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23. Melanin
13.2
Canities is the absence of pigment in hair due to age or congenital conditions.
Amount on non pigmented hair on guests head is usually described in percentages: 25% 50% 75%
referred to as “resistant” to color because it may have up to 24 layers of cuticle (pigmented has less than 10 layers)
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24. Trichochromes Sub-caterory to Pheomelanin in natural sandy-red hair
Responsible for natural strawberry blonde shades
Contain more red than yellow-more difficult to lighten to pale yellow
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25. *The heat from the scalp affects product
*Hair at Scalp Area is softer in texture than keratinized hair in mid and ends.
*The heat from the scalp affects product
*Refer to correct product application
Text
Text

26. Hair Analysis
13.2
Texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures.
Fine- takes color faster
Medium
Coarse- may take longer to process
Density is the number of hairs per square inch and can range from thick to thin.

27. Hair Analysis Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid. 13.2
High- cuticle is lifted and the hair takes color quickly but also may fade easily
Average- slightly raised cuticle will process at average amount of time
Low- tighter cuticle, hair is resistant, and requires longer processing time

28. The Decolorization Process
When hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline substance like hair color or bleach and is applied to the hair, a chemical reaction occurs called oxidation.
The peroxide begins to change the melanin structure by breaking the granules into tiny fragments that are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree.

29. Chemistry of Hydrogen Peroxide The initiator of color development process
Performs two functions:
Hydrogen peroxide + ammonia :: opens cuticle and lightens the natural haircolor by reacting with melanin and breaking it up *The longer the lightening substance remains in contact with the hair, the more the melanin is changed.
Hydrogen peroxide + hair color molecules :: oxidizing hair color molecules to the selected shades
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30. developers/volume = oxidizing agent
13.3
developers/volume = oxidizing agent
3% =10 volume
6% =20 volume
9% =30 volume
12% =40 volume
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31. Stages of Lightening page18
As the hair is decolorized(whether the lifting process is chemical or caused by the sun), it will move through seven specific stages of lift depending on the natural starting level
Black, brown, red, red/orange, orange, yellow, and pale yellow
The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has and the length of time the lightening product is processed
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32. The Seven Stages of Lightening/10 Degrees of Decolorization
13.3
The Seven Stages of Lightening/10 Degrees of Decolorization
During the Decolorization process, there are only 7 stages of lightening that our eye will detect.
Decolorizing the hair to one of the seven stages exposes the Natural Remaining Pigment (NRP) for the final result.
The Hair color exposes 10 Degrees of Decolorization

33. Natural Remaining Pigment When permanent hair color is used, it is important to identify the N.R.P. at each of the 10 levels.
10 Lightest Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
8 Light Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
6 Dark Blonde
5 Lightest Brown
4 Light Brown
3 Medium Brown
2 Dark Brown
1 Black
Pale Yellow
Yellow
Yellow/Orang e
Orange
Red/Orange
Red
**Hair will not lift to each new level in equal amounts of time- due to makeup of diffused pigment the lifting process slows down when lifting red and yellow
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34. Natural Remaining Pigment and Complementary Color
N.R.P. is the tonal value that that hair contributes as it lightens.
It is important to determine the N.R.P. the hair will contribute at the desired level, prior to coloring the hair.
Once it’s identified, you must determine whether you want to enhance or neutralize the N. R. P. and select your shade accordingly.

35. 13.3
Hair Color Categories
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36. 13.3
Temporary Color
Pre-Formed (direct dyes), that penetrate only the cuticle layer of the hair shaft
Come in different forms (rinses, aerosols, gels, color shampoos)
Typically last from one shampoo to the next

37. 13.3
Semi-Permanent Color
Direct dyes that are relatively small molecules which, in the proper base, can penetrate into the hair fiber sufficiently well to resist immediate shampooing
No chemical change to the hair since peroxide and ammonia are not used
Duration is approximately 4-6 shampoos

38. Demi-Permanent Color 13.3 Oxidizing (indirect)dyes
Similar to permanent hair color dyes as they need to be mixed with a developer in order to create the shade
Often contain no ammonia and are not designed to lighten the natural hair color
Duration is generally 4-6 weeks depending on the hair’s porosity
13.3

39. Permanent Color 13.3 Lightens Darkens (covers grey) Changes Tone
Oxidizing hair color that contains ammonia which performs two actions taking place simultaneously
Lightens the hair’s natural pigment revealing the N.R. P.
Color dyes develop inside the cortex of the hair and in conjunction with the N.R.P. create the new hair color
Designed to be re-touched every 4-6 weeks
13.3

40. page 33

41. Enlightening/ Lighteners
LIGHTENERS are used to remove or diffuse melanin.
can be available in on scalp / off scalp formulas
Contributing pigment is pigment that lies under the natural hair color and must be taken into consideration when selecting a haircolor

42. Vegetable Hair Color- Henna Metallic Hair color- Grecian Formula
To test for Metal Salts=20 drops water +1 drop 28% Ammonia

43. HAIR COLOR CONSULTATION
Perception is important in hair color
85% of your success in the field of cosmetology is a result of your personal attributes such as your personal image, your goal orientation and very importantly, your ability to communicate effectively.
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44. Aesthetic Analysis

45. Aesthetic Analysis

46. CONSULTATION- most important part of color service
GREET
OBSERV E
LISTEN
SUGGES T
CONFIR M
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47. Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Identification of color: PORTFOLIO
Hair’s Natural Color
When determining the color formulation the base/natural color needs to be considered nape to crown to hairline and also from the scalp through the ends
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48. The Level System To determine natural level you must:
Take a ½ inch square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp.
Use a natural level finder swatch that matches the hair
Move the swatch from the scalp area along the hair strand
Determine the natural hair color level

49. ***For Avant Garde all rules can be broken
Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Complexion and Eye Color
WARM PEOPLE=WARM TONES / COOL PEOPLE=COOL TONE
*see COLOR HARMONY Chart page 21
Fair-Medium Warm (yellow)
Medium-Deep warm (orange)
Fair-Medium (pink)
Medium-Deep (olive)
*Use caution when selecting appropriate hair color, especially when the color is a whole head color rather than a highlight or lowlight. When performing dimensional color, you have the option of adding more colors that would not be flattering if all the hair were colored that shade.
**For Natural Looking Results Encourage Guests to color within 1-2 levels
***For Avant Garde all rules can be broken
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50. Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Age and its effect on skin
Most colors chosen for mature clients are lighter and softer; women who were colored level 1n at 35 may not wish to maintain it at 65
Complexion becomes lighter with age and the tissue around the eyes become darker. Hair color should look good on the client at his/her current age
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51. Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Lighting
The lighting in the salon area should ideally be natural or non-florescent. If the client will be in a specific type of light, your color choice may reflect that.
Example: people who work under florescent lights may want their hair color to be a bit warmer to compensate for the cool tone of the that lighting

52. Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Maintenance and Upkeep:
How often does the client want a retouch? or color change?
HISTORY OF PREVIOUS HAIRCOLOR
Guest Status:
New/Regular Guest:: Like and dislikes related to past services?
Do they want to change their color formula or service type?
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53. COLOR BLUEPRINT page 23 Analysis History of Previous hair color
Desired Result
Pre work
Formula
Application
Processing Time
Home Maintenance
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54. Aveda Hair Color Consultation
Analyze the condition of the hair.
Ask questions to determine the guest’s hair color history
Ask questions to establish the guest’s desired result
Establish a price before beginning the hair color service
Give the guest a timeframe for the initial service, as well as schedule future appointments
Recommend Aveda products for home maintenance

55. Hair Color Cautions ASSESSMENT of hair condition
HAIR HISTORY products used, services performed, how often shampooed and conditioned, how hair is styled, chlorine and sun exposure *recommend services for deep cleansing or conditioning
Hair Color Cautions
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56. Hair Color Cautions ?? ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS ??
Have you ever experienced any scalp/skin irritation from previous chemical services?
What chemical services have you had and when?
What type of hair color services have you had and when?
How well does color last in your hair?
How do you plan to style your hair?
Do you swim in a pool?
Do you wash you’re hair in water that has sustantial amount of minerals in it?
?? ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS ??

57. Hair Color Cautions
Approach with extreme caution hair that has been treated with any of the following
Ammonium Thioglycolate
Sodium Hydroxide
Calcium Hydroxide
Potassium Hydroxide
Because hydroxide relaxer and lightener (bleach) are both strong alkalis with ph levels over 10.0, applying either of them to hair treated with the other will cause severe damage and porosity
**Use extreme caution on bleached or lightened color that has severe breakage

58. APPLICATIONS
GUEST COMFORT AND PROTECTION: apply Barrier Cream (Anti- Humectant/All Sensitive Composition) to hairline, this is used to protect guests skin from absorbing hair color
*Always perform Strand Test to ensure desired end result. This enables us to monitor color development and avoid potential problems.(also to see how non aveda color might react with Aveda)

59. 6 Steps to Implement Perfect Color Service
Consultation
Formulation
Mixing
Application
Processing
Removal 59

60. APPLICATION

61. Virgin Lighter Hair Color APPLICATION
Divide hair into 4 sections from ear to ear, over point of distribution and from the center of the hairline to center of nape.
Secure each section
Starting at the nape area take 1/4”-1/8” diagonal partings and liberally apply the formula to the new growth area and porous ends after the midlengths have been brought up to ½ the desired shade
MIDSTRAND TO ENDS THEN BASE

62. Lightening Resistant & Fine Hair
Areas on the head that are more resistant to lightening are
Center front hairline
Front of the ears
Nape Area
Areas on the head where hair is fine will lighten more easily are
Crown
temples

63. Double Process Blondes lightening and toning
Double process blonde is a technique used to create toned results
Use Enlightener in a virgin lighter application
Use Full Spectrum Haircolor Permanent or Deposit- Only, as a TONER
*TOWEL DRY THOROUGHLY/ APPLY EQUALIZING SOLUTION

64. Alternative Virgin Lighter Application
Instead of traditional virgin lighter application, a higher volume of developer(10 volume higher) is applied to mid-length to porous ends. This ensure even lifting of both the scalp area and the mid- lengths, and can be applied at the same time.

65. Virgin Darker Hair Color APPLICATION
Divide hair into 4 sections from ear to ear, over point of distribution and from the center of the hairline to center of nape.
Secure each section.
Outline quadrant with product.
Starting at the nape area take 1/4” diagonal partings and liberally apply the formula to the new growth area on both sides of parting through the midlengths to porous end
BASE TO ENDS

66. APPLICATION Aveda Retouch BASE Hair Color Balancing
apply to New Growth- the growth of hair after a color service.
Hair Color Balancing
Refresh- color has lost tone and up to one-level.
After hair color is completed processing wet hair with hot water Emulsify color through hair for 2-5 minutes. Shampoo.
*It is recommended that you retouch and refresh every 4-6 weeks
Retouch Reestablish- color has lost tone and1-2 levels. Apply hair color to mid-lengths and ends after retouch. Can remix desired shade with 10 volume or deposit-only formula.
BASE

67. HOME MAINTENANCE

68. PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS

70. COLOR
BLUEPRINT

71. AVEDA Consultation Analyze Hair Condition Hair Color History
Realistic Desired Result
Establish Service Price
Maintenance/Time Schedule
Home Maintenance

72. Dimensional Color Placement Foiling Techniques

73. Foiling Techniques
A cut or style can be compared to the foundations of a tall building. Without this solid, underlying framework, the building would collapse. Before embarking upon a style, it is important to step back and evaluate your subject. A three-dimensional space, similar to a jigsaw puzzle of interlocking shapes, colors, and tones, will add up to a balanced design.

75. Columbus Skyline

77. St. Louis skyline

79. Florence Skyline

81. What factors would you consider when selecting a haircut?
Face Shape
Head Shape
Thickness of hair
Texture of hair
Growth Patterns
Hairline
Styling Techniques
Maintenance

82. “What factors would you consider when selecting a hair color placement
Face Shape
Head Shape
Thickness of hair
Texture of hair
Growth Patterns
Hairline
Styling Techniques
Maintenance

83. Foiling Techniques
All of these factors will help you determine the type of application for color placement or customized hair color—how many foils to use, how many panels the hair is sectioned into, whether you weave or slice, how thick the weaves or slices would be, or how to use a more creative approach.

84. Color Placement Terminology
PANELS: Sections that the hair is parted into on the head
PARTINGS:Sub-Sections that are taken from panels and are then woven or sliced to create highlights
DENSITY:Number of foils that are in each panel

85. Color Placement Terminology
LIGHT DENSITY
30% or less of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil
Partings are ½” apart.
Section of hair left uncolored between each foil would be appx. ½” to 1”
MEDIUM DENSITY
50% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil.
Partings are ¼” to ½” apart
HEAVY DENSITY
70% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil
Partings are 1/8” to ¼” apart

86. Color Placement Terminology
Weaving Effects:
Fine Effect - achieved with weaves per parting
Medium Effect - achieved with 6-8 weaves per parting
Strong Effect - achieved with 2-3 weaves per parting
Always brick lay pattern
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87. Color Placement Terminology
Slicing Effect
A fine effect in slicing is achieved by parting off a fine slice of hair to be colored within the foil. Placement of the next slice is determined by the density desired
A medium effect is achieved by taking 2 slices in a row, placing each slice to be colored in a foil back to back, before leaving hair out between the foils to be left uncolored
A strong effect is achieved by taking 3 slices in a row, placing each slice in foil back to back leaving hair out between the next set of foils

88. One-Length Weaving Technique

89. 3 Section Partial

90. Partial Highlight add triangle/circle

91. 5 Section Full Highlight

92. Graduated Slicing Technique

93. Partial Highlight

95. History of Previous hair color
Analysis
History of Previous hair color
Desired Result
Pre work
Formula
Application
Processing Time

97. Aveda Enlightenment Blonding System
Dawn
Daybreak
Sunrise
Daylight
Sunset
Twilight
Dusk
Eclipse

98. DAWN Violet Base levels 6 & above
Extra Light Platinum Blonde

99. DAYBREA K Dark Violet base levels 6 & above
Extra Light Natural Blonde

100. SUNRIS E R/V Base levels 6 & above
Extra Light Beige Blonde

101. DAYLIGH T Y/O Base levels 6 & above
Extra Light Golden Blonde

102. SUNSET Orange Yellow Base 6 & above
Extra Light Copper Blonde

103. TWILIGHT Violet Yellow Base 6 & above
Extra Light Ash Beige Blonde

104. DUSK Blue Violet Base levels 5-7
Extra Light Ash Blonde

105. Eclipse Blue Base levels 4-6
Extra Light Intense Ash Blonde