1. Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
Cosmetology:
Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
Milady’s
Standard
Cosmetology

2. “Personal development is your springboard to personal excellence
“Personal development is your springboard to personal excellence. Ongoing, continuous, non-stop personal development literally assures you that there is no limit to what you can accomplish”
Brian Tracy

3. Objectives
Explain acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancement chemistry and how it works
List supplies needed for acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancement applications

4. Objectives
Demonstrate the proper procedures for applying acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements using forms, over tips, and on natural nails
Practice safety precautions involving the application of nail primers

5. Objectives
Describe the proper procedure for maintaining healthy acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements
Perform regular rebalance procedures and repairs
Implement the proper procedure for removal of acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements

6. Objectives
Explain how the application of odorless acrylic (methacrylate) products differs from the application of traditional acrylic products
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
One of the first things we notice about people is their hands and fingernails. Can you imagine going to the dentist and noticing that your dentist has dirty fingernails? Even in this day and age when dentists wear gloves while performing their services, dirty or unkempt fingernails are a real turn off. The same applies to wait staff in restaurants — and they do not wear gloves. With the technology of the 21st century, there is no reason for anyone to have unattractive nails. There are many ways that you, as a practitioner skilled in nail technology, can help your clients have better looking hands. And there is certainly no reason why anyone desiring long, attractive nails cannot have them. Today we are going to look at a process that for years now has been referred to as “acrylic” nails.

7. Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
Created by mixing monomers (liquid) with polymers (powder)
Methacrylate
Monomer: one unit called a molecule
Polymer: many units or molecules
ACRYLIC NAILS: Nail enhancement based on mixing liquids (monomers) and powders (polymers) have been known for years as acrylic nails. The term acrylic actually refers to an entire family of thousands of different substances that share closely related features. Acrylics are used for many things such as contact lenses, cements for mending broken bones, Plexiglas windows, and even makeup.
METHACRYLATE PRODUCT: Acrylic is a very general term for a large group of ingredients. Liquid and powder artificial nail enhancement products are based on a subcategory called methacrylates. So, for our purposes, the terms acrylic and methacrylate are used interchangeably.
METHACRYLATE COMPOSITION
Monomer. Mono means “one” and mer means “units”; a monomer is one unit called a molecule.
Polymer. Poly means “many”, so polymer means “many units” or many molecules.

8. Basic Applications Over natural nail Over nail tips
Over flexible forms
BASIC APPLICATIONS
Over natural nail as a protective overlay.
Over a nail tip.
Over a flexible form.

9. Methacrylate Process Immerse brush in monomer Bristles absorb monomer
Brush tip is touched into polymer
A small bead is formed
Bead is placed on nail surface
Bead is molded with brush
METHACRYLATE PROCESS: A natural hair brush is best to apply these products.
Immerse brush in monomer.
Bristles absorb monomer.
Brush tip is touched into polymer.
A small bead is formed.
Bead is placed on nail surface.
Bead is molded with brush.

10. Polymerization Additives Pigments Catalysts Initiators
Benzoyl peroxide
Combining products
POLYMERIZATION: Monomer is made from ethyl methacrylate. Polymer powder is made mostly from ethyl methacrylate monomer. The polymer powder is made using a special chemical reaction called polymerization.
Additives. Special additives are blended into liquid and powder to ensure complete set or cure, maximum durability, color stability, shelf-life, etc.
Pigments. Polymer powders are usually blended with pigments and colorants to create a wide range of shades, including pinks, whites, milky translucents, and even reds, blues, greens, purples, yellows, oranges, browns, and jet black.
Catalysts. The monomer and polymer bead is shaped and begins to harden; however, the bead needs help. That is achieved through additives called catalysts and initators. A catalyst speeds up chemical reaction and is used in monomer liquids to control the set or curing time. The catalyst energizes and activates the intiators.
Initiators. Initiators start a chain reaction, which leads to the creation of long polymer chains. The initiator causes monomer molecules to permanently link long polymer chains.
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO). BPO starts the chain reaction that leads to curing the nail enhancement.
Combining products. Different products use different amounts of BPO; thus, it is very important to always use the polymer powder that was designed for use with the monomer liquid being used. Products used incorrectly can result in service breakdown or skin irritation and sensitivity.

11. Methacrylate Colors Basic pink Basic white Basic clear
Can be blended to customize shade
Bold primaries or pastels used to create designs and patterns
METHACRYLATE COLORS: Basic pink, white, clear, and natural can be blended to create customized shades of pink to match or enhance client’s nail beds.
Bold primaries or pastels can be used to create a wide range of designs or patterns. Using colored powders allows you to lock in permanent colors in the artificial nail. Stark white can be used to create the French manicure look.

12. Supplies Methacrylate monomer liquid Methacrylate polymer powder
Nail dehydrator
Nail primer
Abrasives
Nail forms
SUPPLIES: You will need the basic manicuring set-up as well as the following items.
• Methacrylate monomer liquid.
• Methacrylate polymer powder. The amount of liquid and powder used to create a bead is called the mix ratio. Equal amounts create a dry bead. More liquid creates a wet bead. More powder creates a dry bead. A bead with 50% more liquid than powder is called a medium bead. The right consistency is critical to a long-lasting nail enhancement.
• Nail dehydrator. Nail dehydrators remove surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate.
• Nail primer. Acid-free or non-acid primers are preferred. They are used to enhance adhesion of enhancements to the natural nail. Regardless of product type, always follow manufacturer’s instructions.
• Abrasives. Abrasives from medium to fine are used for smoothing methacrylate nails. A three-way buffer is used to high shine the enhancement when no polish is worn. Methacrylate enhancements take 24 to 48 hours to reach ultimate strength.
• Nail forms. Nail forms are placed under free edge and used to extend the nail enhancement beyond the free edge for additional length.

13. Supplies Nail tips Nail adhesive Dappen dishes Nail brushes
Safety eyewear
Dust masks and gloves
• Nail tips. These are preformed nail extensions made from ABS or tenite acetate plastic. They are available in a wide variety of shapes, styles, and colors.
• Nail adhesive. All are based on cyanoacrylate monomers. Choose small-sized containers as they have a short shelf-life of 6 months or less. Always close cap securely, set upright, and store out of direct sunlight at a temperature between 60 and 85 degrees F.
• Dappen dishes. These dishes hold both the monomer and polymer; they are designed to minimize evaporation.
• Nail brush. Sable hair brushes are best. Avoid overly large brushes as they may dilute the product and touch the skin.
• Safety eyewear. This should be worn to protect eyes from flying objects or accidental slashes.
• Dust masks and gloves. Masks are worn over nose and mouth to prevent inhalation of excessive dusts. Gloves made of “nitrile” polymer work best.

14. Methacrylate Materials

15. Methacrylate Pre-Service
Complete pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedure
Set up standard manicure table
Greet client
Perform client consultation
METHACRYLATE PRE-SERVICE: Present pre-service procedure and have students follow along LP 28.0, H – 1.
Complete the pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedure.
Set up your standard manicuring table. Add sufficient additional supplies needed to perform this service.
Greet client. Direct client to wash hands with liquid soap and warm running water and to dry thoroughly.
Perform client consultation. Use client consultation form to record responses and observations. Check for nail disorders. If client must not receive a service, explain why and refer her to a doctor, if necessary. Record skin or nail disorders, allergies, etc. Make notes concerning the client’s nail habits. Is she a nail biter, does she pick at or fix her own nails, or does she do heavy lifting in her daily routine? Also make brief notations about the performance of the client’s enhancements, if they are being worn. Record specific information about the service, such as acrylic (methacrylate) overlay with polish or pink and white acrylic (methacrylate) nail with glossy top coat, and make a note of the client's choice in polish color.

16. Methacrylate Using Forms
Clean nails; remove polis
Push back eponychium; remove cuticle
Remove oily shine
METHACRYLATE USING FORMS: Present procedure for applying methacrylate nails over forms; have students follow along LP 28.0, H – 1.
Clean nails and remove existing polish. Begin with your client’s left hand, little finger, and work toward the thumb. Repeat on the right hand. Place nails into a finger bowl with liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean nails over the finger bowl. Thoroughly rinse with clean water to remove soap residues which can cause lifting.
Push back eponychium and remove cuticle from the nail plate. Use a cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher to gently push back eponychium. Apply cuticle remover. Use as directed by the manufacturer to remove cuticle tissue from nail plate.
Remove oily shine from natural nail surface. Lightly buff nail plate with medium/fine (240 grit) abrasive to remove the natural oil, which causes the shine on the surface of the nail plate.

17. Methacrylate Using Forms
Apply nail dehydrator
Position nail forms
Apply nail primer
Prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder
Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with cotton-tipped wooden pusher, cotton pad with a plastic backing, brush, or spray. Begin with little finger on the left hand and work toward the thumb.
Position nail form. Position nail form on nail plate. If using disposable forms, peel a nail form from its paper backing and use the thumb and index finger of each hand to bend the form into an arch to fit the client’s natural nail shape. Slide form into place and press adhesive backing to the sides of the finger. Ensure the form is snug under the free edge and level with the natural nail. If using multiuse forms, slide form into place, making sure the free edge is over the form and that it fits snugly. Take care not to cut into the hyponychium under the free edge. Tighten the form around the finger by squeezing lightly.
Apply nail primer. Apply nail primer and allow to dry thoroughly. Never apply nail enhancement product over wet nail primer, because this can cause product discoloration and service breakdown. Avoid overuse of nail primers.
Prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder. Pour acrylic (methacrylate) liquid and powder into separate dappen dishes. If using the two-color method, three dappen dishes are needed: one for the white tip powder, one for the clear, natural, or pink powder, and one for the acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid.

18. Methacrylate Using Forms
Dip brush into monomer liquid
Form product bead
Place bead of product
Dip brush into monomer liquid. Dip brush fully into the monomer liquid and remove excess by wiping on the edge of dish.
Form product bead. Dip the tip of the same brush into the acrylic (methacrylate) polymer powder and rotate slightly. Pick up a bead of product with a medium consistency, not runny or wet, that is large enough for shaping the entire free edge extension. If this is too large a bead to properly shape, using two smaller beads may be easier. If using the two-color acrylic (methacrylate) method, use the white powder at this point.
Place bead of product. Place the bead on the nail form at the point where the free edge joins the nail form.

19. Methacrylate Using Forms
Shape free edge
Shape free edge. Use the middle portion of your sable brush to press and smooth the product to shape the enhancement in the free edge area. Do not “paint” the enhancement product onto the nail. Pressing and smoothing produces a more natural-looking nail. Keep side wall lines parallel and avoid widening the tip beyond the natural width of the nail plate. If using the two-color nail enhancement method, create a natural-looking shape with the white powder to produce the French manicure look.

20. Methacrylate Using Forms
Place second bead of product
Shape second bead of product
Place second bead of product. Pick up a second bead of product of medium consistency and place it on natural nail below the last bead and next to the free edge line in center of nail.
Shape second bead of product. Press and smooth product toward the side walls, making sure the product is very thin around all edges. Leave a tiny free margin between the product placement and skin. Avoid placing the product too close to the skin or it may lift away from the nail plate and increase the chance of causing skin irritation or sensitivity. If you are using a two-color acrylic (methacrylate) product, use the pink powder in this step. Make sure to use a medium consistency. Avoid working with product that is too wet.

21. Methacrylate Using Forms
Apply product bead
Apply product to remaining nails
Remove nail forms
Apply product bead. Pick up smaller bead of pink polymer powder with your brush and place at base of the nail plate, leaving a tiny free margin between it and the skin. Use the brush to press and smooth beads over entire nail plate. Glide brush over nail to smooth out imperfections. Enhancement product application near eponychium, side wall, and free edge must be thin for a natural-looking nail.
Apply product to remaining nails. Repeat steps 5 to 14 on remaining nails.
Remove nail forms. When nail enhancements are thoroughly hardened, loosen forms and slide off. Nail enhancements are hard enough to file and shape if they make a clicking sound when lightly tapped with a brush handle.

22. Methacrylate Using Forms
Shape nail enhancements
Buff nail enhancements
Shape nail enhancements. Use medium abrasive ( grit) to shape free edge and remove imperfections. Glide abrasive over each nail with long sweeping strokes to further shape and perfect enhancement surface. Thin the product near the base of all the nail plates, free edge, and side walls.
Buff nail enhancements. Buff the enhancement with a fine grit buffer (350 grit or higher) until entire surface is smooth. Use a high shine buffer if polish is not to be worn.

23. Methacrylate Using Forms
Apply nail oil
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm
Clean nail enhancements
Apply nail polish
Apply nail oil. Use a cotton-tipped wooden pusher or an eyedropper to apply nail oil to the skin surrounding the nail plate and massage briefly to speed penetration.
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.
Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to wash with soap and use a nail brush to clean nail enhancements. Thoroughly rinse with water to remove all soap residues that may cause lifting. Dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel. If your client selected the two-color method, then the acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements are finished.
Apply nail polish. If your client selected one-color acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements, apply the selected nail polish.

24. Finished Nail Enhancements

25. Acrylic Nail Post-Service
Make another appointment
Make home product recommendations
Clean up around table
Clean brush
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL POST-SERVICE
Make another appointment. Schedule another appointment for maintaining nail enhancements. A rebalance will be necessary in 2 or 3 weeks, depending on how quickly the nails grow. Encourage your client to return for a basic manicure between rebalance appointments if the acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements are polished.
Make take-home product recommendations. Suggest professional products that benefit your client, such as polish, topcoat, and hand lotions, which are valuable maintenance tools for her to have and she will appreciate your professional recommendation.
Clean up around your table. Take the time to restore the basic set-up of your table and restock supplies. Make sure all caps are tight.
Clean brush. Clean brush according to manufacturer's instructions. Never pull out bristles of brush because you may loosen the remaining bristles. Clip one stray hair if necessary but never trim bristles because you may ruin the accuracy of the brush. Do not allow brush to sit in acetone or brush cleaner. Generally, it is better to clean the brush in the monomer liquid. Brush cleaners and acetone can dry out the hairs and make them brittle. Never immerse any application brush into any liquid disinfecting solution that can cause product contamination and lead to service breakdown.

26. Acrylic Nail Post-Service
Discard used materials
Clean table and disinfect implements
Discard used materials. Never save used monomer liquid that has been removed from original container. Use on one client only. In order to dispose of small remaining amounts of monomer, carefully pour into a very absorbent paper towel and place it in a plastic bag. Avoid skin contact with the liquid monomer and never pour the monomer directly into the plastic bag! If skin contact occurs, wash hands with liquid soap and water. After all used materials have been collected, seal them in a plastic bag and discard it in a closed waste receptacle. It is important to remove items soiled with enhancement product from your manicuring station after each client to help maintain the quality of the salon's air. Dispose of these items according to your local rules and regulations.
Clean your table and clean and disinfect implements (multi-use tools, such as abrasives). Perform your complete pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedures.

27. Acrylic Over Tips Complete acrylic nail pre-service Remove polish
Clean fingernails
Push back eponychium; remove cuticle
METHACRYLATE OVER TIPS OR NATURAL NAILS: Present procedure for applying methacrylate over tips or natural nails and have students follow along LP 28.0, H – 2.
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER TIPS OR NATURAL NAILS
Complete acrylic (methacrylate) nail pre-service.
Remove existing polish. Begin with your client’s left hand, little finger, and work toward the thumb. Repeat on the right hand.
Clean fingernails. Ask client to dip nails in a fingerbowl filled with liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean the fingernails over a fingerbowl. Thoroughly rinse nail plates to remove soapy residues, which may cause lifting. Dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel.
Push back eponychium and carefully remove cuticle from the nail plate. Use a cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher to gently push back eponychium, then apply cuticle remover. Use as directed by the manufacturer and carefully remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate.

28. Acrylic Over Tips Buff nail plate to remove shine Apply dehydrator
Apply tips
Apply nail primer
Buff nail plate to remove oily shine. Buff the nail plate with medium/fine abrasive (240 grit) to remove the shine caused by natural oil on the surface of the nail plate. Avoid overfiling of the nail plate.
Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher, plastic-backed cotton pad, brush, or spray. Begin with the little finger on the left hand and work toward the thumb.
Apply tips. Apply tips if your client desires them and cut to the appropriate length.
Apply nail primer. Apply nail primer as previously described and follow manufacturer's directions. Allow nail primer to dry thoroughly. Never apply nail enhancement product over wet nail primer; this can cause product discoloration and service breakdown. Avoid overuse of nail primers. Apply primer to the natural nail and avoid putting it on the nail tips, unless instructed by the manufacturer of the nail primer.

29. Acrylic Over Tips Prepare acrylic liquid and powder
Dip brush into monomer liquid
Form product bead
Prepare acrylic (methacrylate) liquid and powder. Pour monomer liquid and polymer powder into separate small dappen dishes. If you are using the two-color system, you will need three dappen dishes—one for the white tip powder, one for the pink powder, and one for the monomer liquid.
Dip brush into monomer liquid. Dip brush fully into the monomer liquid and wipe on the edge of dish to remove excess.
Form product bead. Dip the tip of the same brush into the acrylic (methacrylate) polymer powder and rotate slightly. Pick up a bead of product with a medium consistency, not runny or wet, that is large enough for shaping the entire free edge extension. If this is too large a bead to properly shape, using two smaller beads may be easier. If using the two-color acrylic (methacrylate) method, use the white powder at this point.

30. Acrylic Over Tips Place bead of product on free edge Shape free edge
Place second bead of acrylic on free edge
Shape second bead of product
Place bead of product on free edge. Place product bead on the free edge of tip or natural nail.
Shape free edge. Use the middle portion of your sable brush to press and smooth the product to shape the enhancement’s free edge. Do not “paint” the product onto the nail. Pressing and smoothing produces a more natural-looking nail. Keep side wall lines parallel and avoid widening the tip beyond the natural width of the nail plate. If you are using the two-color method, create a natural-looking shape with the white powder to produce the French manicure look.
Place second bead of acrylic on free edge. Use medium consistency and place it on the nail plate below the first bead and next to the free edge line in center of nail.
Shape second bead of product. Press and smooth product to side walls, making sure the product is very thin around all edges. Leave a tiny free margin between the product placement and skin. Avoid placing the product too close to the skin, or it may cause it to lift away from the nail plate and may also increase the chance of client’s developing a skin irritation or sensitivity. If you are using a two-color product, use the pink powder in this step. Make sure to use a medium consistency, not too wet.

31. Acrylic Over Tips Apply product beads
Apply product beads. Pick up smaller beads of pink polymer powder with your brush and place them at the base of the nail plate, leaving a tiny free margin between the product and the skin. Use the brush to press and smooth these beads over entire nail plate. Glide brush over nail to smooth out imperfections. Product application near eponychium, side wall, and free edge must be thin for a natural-looking nail. For the two-color method, use pink powder to create the beads.

32. Acrylic Over Tips Shape and refine nail enhancement
Buff nail enhancement
Apply nail oil
Shape and refine nail enhancement. Use medium abrasive ( grit) to shape free edge and to remove imperfections. Then refine with medium/fine abrasive (240 grit).
Buff nail enhancement. Buff nail enhancement with fine grit buffer (350 grit or higher) until entire surface is smooth (Figure 28-25) or use a high shine buffer if nail is to be worn without polish.
Apply nail oil. Rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement and massage briefly to speed penetration.

33. Acrylic Over Tips Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm
Clean nail enhancements
Apply nail polish
Complete post-service procedure
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.
Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to dip nail enhancements in fingerbowl filled with liquid soap and water. Then use nail brush to clean nails over fingerbowl. Thoroughly rinse with clean water to remove soap residues, which may cause lifting. Dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel. If your client selected the two-color method, the nail enhancements are finished.
Apply nail polish. Polish one-color nail enhancements.
Complete acrylic (methacrylate) enhancement post-service procedure.

34. Finished Nail Enhancement

35. Enhancement Rebalancing
Complete pre-service
Remove existing polish
Smooth ledge between new growth and acrylic nail
Refine entire nail enhancement
Buff nail enhancement
METHACRYLATE MAINTENANCE. Present procedure for enhancement rebalancing and have students follow along LP 28.0, H – 3.
Complete acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancement application pre-service.
Remove existing polish.
Smooth ledge between new growth and acrylic nail. Using a medium/coarse abrasive ( grit), carefully smooth down the ledge of existing product until it is flush with the new growth of nail plate. Do not dig into or damage the natural nail plate with your abrasive. Use a medium/coarse abrasive ( grit) to smooth the ledge created by the natural nail's growth until it blends naturally into the nail plate. Do not file into and damage the natural nail plate.
Refine entire nail enhancement. Hold the medium abrasive ( grit) flat and glide it over entire nail enhancement to reshape, refine, and thin out the free edge until the white tip appears translucent. Take care not to damage the client’s skin with the abrasive.
Buff nail enhancement. Use a fine grit buffer (350 grit or higher) to buff the product and smoothly blend it into new growth area without damaging the natural nail plate.

36. Enhancement Rebalancing
Blend areas of lifting
Clean nail enhancements
Push back eponychium, remove cuticle
Remove oily shine from natural nail surface
Blend areas of lifting. Use a medium abrasive ( grit) file to smooth out any areas of product that may be lifting or forming pockets. Do not file into the natural nail plate.
Clean nail enhancements. Use a fingerbowl filled with warm water and liquid soap and a nail brush to gently wash nails. Do not soak nails. Rinse well with clean water to remove soap residues that may cause lifting.
Push back eponychium and remove cuticle from the nail plate. Use a cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher to gently push back eponychium. Apply cuticle remover as directed by manufacturer and carefully remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate.
Remove oily shine from natural nail surface. Lightly buff the nail plate with medium/fine abrasive (240 grit) to remove the natural oil.
Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with cotton-tipped wooden or metal pusher, plastic-backed cotton pad, brush, or spray.

37. Enhancement Rebalancing
Apply nail dehydrator
Apply nail primer
Prepare acrylic (methacrylate) liquid and powder
Place beads of enhancement product
Shape beads of enhancement product
Apply nail primer. Apply nail primer according to manufacturer's directions. Allow primer to dry thoroughly. Avoid applying nail enhancement product over wet primer; this can cause product discoloration and service breakdown. Avoid overusing nail primer.
Prepare acrylic (methacrylate) liquid and powder. Pour acrylic (methacrylate) liquid and powder into separate dappen dishes.
Place beads of enhancement product. Pick up one or more white powder beads and reestablish the smile line. Pick up one or more small pink powder beads of enhancement product and place them on the new growth area. Be sure to use pink and white polymer powder if you are using a two-color method. Only pink or natural powder is required, if nail polish is to be worn.
Shape beads of enhancement product. Use middle of brush to press and smooth the product into place.
Place beads of enhancement product. Pick up one or more small beads of pink powder and place them at the center of the nail plate.
Shape beads of enhancement product. Use the brush to smooth these beads over entire nail enhancement. Glide brush over nail to smooth out imperfections. Enhancement product application near the eponychium, side wall areas, and free edge must be extremely thin for a natural-looking nail. If you are using a two-color product, use the pink powder in this step. Carefully push product up against the edge of the newly re-created white smile line. Be sure to leave a tiny free margin between the nail enhancement product and skin.

38. Enhancement Rebalancing
Shape nail enhancement
Buff nail enhancement
Apply nail oil
Shape nail enhancements. Allow nails to harden. Nails are hard when they make a clicking sound when lightly tapped with a brush handle. Use a coarse/medium grit abrasive ( grit) to shape free edge and apex, and to remove any imperfections. Use medium/fine abrasive to glide over nail enhancement with long sweeping strokes to further shape and perfect nail surface. Taper nail shape toward eponychium, free edge, and side walls, making it thin at all edges.
Buff nail enhancement. Smooth entire surface of nail using a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) until it is smooth. Use a high shine buffer, if desired and if nail polish will not be worn.
Apply nail oil. Apply nail oil into surrounding skin and nail enhancement surface using a cotton-tipped wooden pusher or eyedropper and massage briefly to speed penetration.

39. Enhancement Rebalancing
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm
Thoroughly clean nail enhancements
Apply nail polish
Complete post-service
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.
Thoroughly clean nail enhancements.
Apply nail polish.
Complete acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancement application post-service.

40. Crack Repair for Acrylics
Complete pre-service
Remove polish
File crack in nail enhancement
Clean nail enhancements
Apply nail dehydrator
Apply nail primer
Apply nail form
METHACRYLATE CRACK REPAIR. Present procedure for enhancement crack repair and have students follow along LP 28.0, H – 3.
CRACK REPAIR FOR ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
Complete acrylic (methacrylate) nail application pre-service.
Remove existing polish.
File crack in nail enhancement. File a “V” shape into the crack or file flush to remove crack.
Clean nail enhancements. Ask client to wash hands with liquid soap. Thoroughly rinse nails in clean water to remove soap residues, which may cause lifting. Dry thoroughly with a clean, disposable towel.
Apply nail dehydrator. Apply nail dehydrator to nails using cotton-tipped wooden pusher, plastic-backed cotton pad, brush, or spray.
Apply nail primer. Apply nail primer as previously instructed, following all manufacturer's instructions and precautions.
Apply nail form. If the crack is large, apply a nail form for added support.

41. Crack Repair for Acrylics
Prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder
Place beads of enhancement product
Shape beads of enhancement product
Place additional beads of enhancement product
Prepare monomer liquid and polymer powder. Pour liquid and powder into separate dappen dishes.
Place beads of enhancement product. Pick up one or more small beads of product and apply them to the cracked area. If you are using the two-color system, be sure to use the correct color polymer powder.
Shape beads of enhancement product. Press and smooth the enhancement product to fill crack. Be careful not to let product seep under form.
Place additional beads of enhancement product. Apply additional beads, if needed, to fill in crack or reinforce the rest of the nail. Shape enhancement and allow it to harden.

42. Crack Repair for Acrylics
Remove form
Reshape nail enhancement
Buff until smooth
Remove form (if used).
Reshape nail enhancement using a medium abrasive ( grit)
Buff until smooth. Use a fine abrasive (350 grit or higher), use a high shine buffer, if desired.

43. Crack Repair for Acrylics
Clean nail enhancements
Apply nail oil to skin and enhancement and massage in
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm
Clean nail enhancements.
Apply nail oil to skin and enhancement and massage in for more rapid penetration
Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.
Clean nail enhancements thoroughly.

44. Crack Repair for Acrylics
Apply nail polish
Complete post-service
Apply nail polish.
Complete acrylic (methacrylate) enhancement application post-service.

45. Acrylic (Methacrylate) Removal
Fill bowl with acetone or manufacturer recommended product remover
Soak nail enhancements
Remove nail enhancements
Buff natural nails
Condition skin and nail enhancements
METHACRYLATE REMOVAL. Present procedure for removal of methacrylate nail enhancements and have students follow along LP 28.0, H – 4.
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) REMOVAL
Fill bowl with acetone or manufacturer recommended product remover. Fill glass bowl with enough acetone or product remover to cover ½ inch higher than client’s enhancements.
Soak nail enhancements. Soak client’s nail enhancements for 20 to 30 minutes or as long as needed to remove the enhancement product. Refer to the manufacturer’s directions and precautions for nail enhancement product removal.
Remove nail enhancement. Use a wooden or metal pusher to gently push off softened nail. Repeat until all have been removed. Do not pry off with nippers; this will damage the natural nail plate. Avoid removing enhancements from the acetone or product remover or they will quickly reharden, making them more difficult to remove.
Buff natural nails. Gently buff natural nail with a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) to remove the product residue. Do not thin or damage the natural nail by overbuffing.
Condition skin and nail enhancements. Condition surrounding skin and nail enhancements with a nail oil and a hand lotion.

46. Odorless Acrylics Use with a dry mix ratio Wipe brush frequently
Product hardens more slowly
ODORLESS ACRYLIC: All acrylic products have some odor; however, if it is not strong enough that others in the salon can detect it, it is considered to be “odorless.”
Used with a dry mix ratio. Equal parts liquid and powder in bead. It creates a snowy appearing bead on the brush.
Wipe brush frequently. Never rewet brush with monomer. Without rewetting, use brush to shape and smooth the surface.
Hardens more slowly. This creates the tacky layer called “inhibition” layer, which can be removed with alcohol, acetone, or manufacturer-recommended product or by filing.

47. Colored Powders Available in colors that mimic polish
Nail artistry limited only by your imagination
Clients pay more for customized techniques
Record formulas
COLORED POWDERS
Polymer powders are now available in colors that mimic many shades of polish. Nail artistry with acrylics is limited only by your imagination. Clients pay more for customized techniques. Always record formulas on client record cards for future use.

48. Summary and Review
Describe the origin of acrylic nail chemistry and what makes it work
List the supplies needed for nail enhancement applications
Describe the procedures for application of nail enhancements over forms, over tips, and over natural nails
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
Acrylic (methacrylate) nails make nail enhancements one of the fastest growing and most lucrative services in our industry. A cosmetology professional desiring to offer these services must master the techniques, minimize delivery time, and stay abreast of all the latest products. It is a great opportunity to put your creative juices to work and design customized products and services for your individual clients.
Let’s review.
Describe the origin of acrylic nail chemistry and what makes it work.
ANSWER: All artificial nail enhancement products are based almost entirely on ingredients that come from the acrylic family. The liquid and powder enhancement systems belong to a sub-branch of the acrylic family called methacrylates. They are a two-part system consisting of a liquid and powder which come together to form the nail enhancement.
List the supplies needed for nail enhancement application.
ANSWER: Monomer (liquid), polymer (powder), nail dehydrator, nail primer, abrasives, nail forms, nail tips, nail adhesive, dappen dishes, nail brushes, safety eyewear, dust masks, protective gloves, and regular manicure implements.
Describe the procedures for application of nail enhancements over forms, over tips, and as an overlay on natural nails.
ANSWER: Refer to procedure sheets found in the lesson plan.

49. Summary and Review
Describe what precautions must be taken to safely apply acid-based nail primers and what must be avoided
Describe how catalysts work and explain where they are found in acrylic systems
Describe what precautions must be taken to safely apply acid-based nail primers. What must be avoided?
ANSWER: Using a tiny applicator brush, insert brush tip into primer then touch brush tip to edge of bottle’s neck to release excess primer back into the bottle. Use a dotting action to carefully dab the brush tip to the center of the properly prepared nail. The acid-based primer will spread out and cover the nail plate. Don’t use too much product and avoid letting it run onto the skin and cause burns or injury. Follow label’s instruction.
Describe how catalysts work and explain where they are found in acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancement systems.
ANSWER: Catalysts are additives found in the monomer liquid. They are designed to speed up chemical reactions and are used to control the set or curing time.

50. Summary and Review
Describe how initiators work and explain where they are found in acrylic systems
Describe how to perform a rebalance using monomer liquid and polymer powder
Describe how initiators work and explain where they are found in acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancement systems.
ANSWER: Initiators or accelerators are found in the powder and activated by the catalysts in the monomer. The initiators cause monomer molecules to permanently link together into long polymer chains. This polymerization occurs on the fingernails.
Describe how to perform a rebalance on nail enhancements using monomer liquid and polymer powder.
ANSWER: See procedure found in the lesson plan.

51. Summary and Review
Describe the proper procedure for the removal of the nail enhancements
Explain how the application of odorless enhancement products differs from traditional methacrylate products
Describe the proper procedure for the removal of the nail enhancements.
ANSWER: See procedure found in the lesson plan.
Explain how the application of odorless enhancement products differs from the application of traditional acrylic (methacrylate) nail products based on ethyl acrylic (methacrylate).
ANSWER: Odorless products use a dry mix ratio; they harden more slowly, creating an inhibition layer that is removed with alcohol, acetone, recommended products, or filing.
Explain why it is important to use the powder that was designed for the liquid monomer that you are using.
ANSWER: Different nail enhancement products use different amounts of BPO (benzoyl peroxide). The polymer powders are designed to work with specific monomer liquids. Some monomers require more BPO to properly cure than others, for example. That is why it is important to use the polymer powder designed for use with the monomer liquid you are using. Using the wrong powder can create nail enhancements that are not properly cured and may lead to service breakdown or skin irritation or sensitivity.

52. Summary and Review
Explain why it is important to use the powder that was designed for the liquid monomer you are using
Explain why it is important to use the powder that was designed for the liquid monomer that you are using.
ANSWER: Different nail enhancement products use different amounts of BPO (benzoyl peroxide). The polymer powders are designed to work with specific monomer liquids. Some monomers require more BPO to properly cure than others, for example. That is why it is important to use the polymer powder designed for use with the monomer liquid you are using. Using the wrong powder can create nail enhancements that are not properly cured and may lead to service breakdown or skin irritation or sensitivity.

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