2. 6
Chapter
Textile Fibers and Yarns

3. Objectives
List the main characteristics of natural and manufactured fabrics.
Explain how fibers are manufactured.
Summarize the role of leather and fur as primary materials in fashion.
Describe new fiber innovations.
Explain how fibers are made into yarns.

4. Chapter 6
Raw Materials
Creating fashion goods begins with attention to their raw materials
Fibers have unique properties that influence appearance, strength, absorbency, warmth, shrinkage, and price
Fibers can be divided into two groups
natural fibers
manufactured fibers, also called synthetic fibers

5. Natural Fibers
Natural fibers come from natural sources, such as plants and animals
Cellulosic fibers come from plants
Examples: cotton and linen
Protein fibers come from animal sources
Example: wool and silk
The quality of natural fibers can vary
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6. Natural Fibers Staple fibers are short (less than 8 inches)
Longer lengths of staple fibers are considered to be better quality than short lengths
Long, continuous fibers are called filaments (measured in yards or meters)
Silk is the only natural filament fiber
Most natural fibers are comfortable, easy to dye, and prone to wrinkling and shrinking

7. Cotton
Cotton is
a cellulosic fiber that comes from the “bolls” (seed pods) of cotton plants
the most popular fiber in the global market
soft, durable, and very comfortable to wear
New finishing treatments have reduced the fiber’s tendency to shrink when washed and wrinkle

8. Fashion Insights
“Environmentally friendly” cotton is grown in a range of colors
This eliminates the toxic waste and expense of chemical processing and dyeing
The cotton has a luxurious feel and does not fade with washing and drying
Its fibers are shorter and weaker than fibers of conventional white cotton

9. Wool Wool is a protein fiber from the hair (fleece) of sheep or lambs
Worsted yarns are yarns with long staple wool fibers (more than 2 inches in length)
Shorter wool fibers are used in less expensive woolen fabrics
Wool is a versatile fiber with many end uses
Examples of apparel: sweaters, coats, suits
Other examples: blankets, rugs, upholstery
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10. Wool
The terms pure wool, virgin wool, and 100% wool are interchangeable
They indicate new fibers that have never been used
New wool is softer, stronger, and more resilient than recycled wool
Recycled wool fibers are recovered from previously made wool fabrics

11. Silk Silk is a protein fiber from cocoons spun by silkworms Silk is
Workers soak them in warm water and unwind the long, natural filament fibers
Silk is
known for its beauty, strength, and luster as well as it high cost of production, limited durability, and special-care needs
imported mainly from China, Japan, and Thailand

12. Flax (Linen) Flax is Fabric made from flax fiber, called linen,
the world’s oldest textile fiber
a stiff, absorbent cellulosic fiber made from the stem of the flax plant
mainly imported from Europe
Fabric made from flax fiber, called linen,
is known for its beauty and strength
has a tendency to crease and wrinkle

13. Other Natural Fibers
Ramie—a cellulosic fiber from the stalks of a woody, leafed plant called China grass
Jute, sisal, raffia, and hemp—other natural cellulosic fibers from plants
Camel hair, angora, mohair, cashmere, llama, vicuña, and alpaca—protein “specialty hair fibers”
Down—a fluffy feather undercoating of geese and ducks

14. Industry Facts
No marketing efforts were made for natural fibers until manufactured fibers started to compete with them in the mid-1900s
This caused natural fiber producers to work together to provide products with more desirable characteristics
The result is blends and finishes that give natural fibers wrinkle resistance and easier care

15. Marketing Natural Fibers
Natural fiber trade associations promote the favorable characteristics of their fibers
Cotton Incorporated is a marketing and research organization
National Cotton Council of America is the central organization of the cotton industry
Almost all fiber trade associations provide fabric libraries that contain sample fabrics
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16. Marketing Natural Fibers
Silk and linen do not currently have marketing organizations in the United States
Other marketing organizations include
American Sheep Industry Association
International Wool Textile Organization
Mohair Council of America
Alpaca United

17. Leather and Fur
Leather and fur are from the hides or pelts (skins) of animals
Though worn since before recorded history, their use is controversial today
Artificial substitutes have been developed to copy their look and feel
Real leather and fur are quite expensive since supply is limited and processing is complicated

18. Leather
Leather is a tough, flexible material made by preserving animal hides
Tanning converts the hides into finished leather
Tanned hides come in pieces of various sizes
Hides are a by-product of the meat-packing industry
The supply of leather in this country depends on the demand for meat rather than leather
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19. Leather Cattlehide is the most dominant leather used in apparel.
Reptile skins are also used in fashion products
New leather finishes, textures, and colors result from specialized machinery and innovative tanning methods
Top grain leather is the high quality “genuine leather” used in most consumer products

20. Marketing of Leather
Because of long processing time, fashion trends for leather must be decided 2 years or more in advance
Advertising is done by product designers and manufacturers, not tanners and finishers
The primary trade association for leather tanners is the Leather Industries of America
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21. Marketing of Leather
Tanners introduce their leathers in several different trade shows each year
which attract garment manufacturers, equipment suppliers, and retailers
The Leather Association disseminates consumers information including
how to care for leather goods
the latest leather fashion trends

22. Fur Fur is the soft, hairy coat of an animal
Processed fur pelts are used for “prestige” apparel and accessories
The fur industry includes animal pelt producers, fur processors, and product manufacturers
Most are small companies with highly skilled workers
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23. Fur
Fur processors “dress” the pelts to make them soft, flexible, and more suitable for use in consumer products
Product manufacturers make them into finished coats, jackets, garment trimmings, and accessories
The U.S. is known for producing top quality furs, many of which go to foreign markets

24. Marketing of Fur
Pelt producers, fur processors, and product manufacturers work together to promote fur products through trade associations
Fur Age is the main trade journal for fur industry businesses
furs.com, its sister company, is an online consumer magazine
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25. Marketing of Fur
Fur garment sales occur through showrooms of furriers or leased departments within stores
With consignment selling, the retailer accepts merchandise to sell, but does not own it
Concerned consumers prefer “faux” (artificial) furs
The Fur Information Council of America was formed to combat anti-fur activity and project a positive image of the fur industry

26. Manufactured Fibers Manufactured fibers are created in laboratories
Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made from plant sources such as wood pulp plus chemicals that “regenerate” the cellulose
Noncellulosic manufactured fibers (“synthetic” fibers) are made from petrochemical mixtures of crude oil, natural gas, air, and water

27. Steps to Manufacture Fibers
Solid raw materials are melted with heat or dissolved by chemicals to form a thick liquid
The liquid is forced through a spinneret, which is a nozzle with many tiny holes
Each hole forms a filament fiber
The filaments are stretched and hardened to become usable fibers

28. Categories of Manufactured Fibers
Manufactured fibers are categorized by generic groups
A generic name identifies each family of manufactured fiber with similar chemical composition
Most generic groups contain variants
Each variant is a manufactured fiber modified slightly during production
Variants are given trade (or brand) names
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29. Categories of Manufactured Fibers
The trade name or trademark and the fiber-making process are registered with the U.S. Patent Office
These cost more than commodity fibers
Commodity fibers, sold by generic groups, are not identified with a specific maker
They have no quality assurance and are imported from foreign countries

30. Fashion Insights
Manufactured fibers have some qualities that are unique or superior to those of natural fibers, such as strength or elasticity
Some manufactured fibers feel clammy when worn because they do not absorb moisture
Nonabsorbent fibers also build static electricity that causes them to “spark” and cling to the wearer

31. Characteristics of Manufactured Fibers
It is important for people interested in fashion merchandising to know the advantages, disadvantages, and typical uses of each group
Polyester is the largest selling manufactured fiber
Olefin has excellent wicking ability
Wicking is the dispersing or spreading of moisture, such as pulling body moisture to the fabric’s surface where it can evaporate

32. Industry Facts
The United States is the world’s leading innovator and producer of manufactured fibers
Innovation is the creative, forward-thinking introduction of new ideas
Fiber chemists link molecules of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen into long chains of compounds called polymers

33. Fiber Innovation
The polymers are engineered in the lab to meet specific needs, such as flame resistance
Limited quantities of a new or modified manufactured fiber are usually first produced in a pilot plant on an experimental basis
This small-scale trial production uses commercial methods to make enough fiber to check its behavior in fabrics and end uses
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34. Fiber Innovation
Strong competition to create new variants exists among manufactured fiber producers
New trademarks appear continually, replacing old ones that are discontinued
Manufactured fiber producers help fabric companies with new yarn ideas and with evaluating consumer reaction to the fabrics made from their new fibers

35. The Latest Fiber Trends
Lyocell is a fairly new generic group
It is a cellulosic manufactured fiber that is environmentally friendly
Other new fibers are being developed from annually renewable resources, such as corn and soybeans
Rayon is being made from bamboo, which grows fast
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36. The Latest Fiber Trends
A recycling process can turn plastic soft drink bottles into “earth friendly” fibers for apparel
Microfibers (microdenier fibers) are popular
Denier is the term used to describe fiber thickness or diameter
Microdeniers are ultra-fine, being less than one denier per filament (about half the thickness of fine silk)
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37. The Latest Fiber Trends
The addition of spandex fiber to make stretchable fabrics is another trend
Nanotechnology is the altering of materials atom by atom at the molecular level
This control of tiny measurements is playing a greater role in developing new fiber properties
People must be educated about how to use and care for each new fiber innovation

38. Marketing Manufactured Fibers
For popularity in the market, manufactured fibers compete with each other as well as with natural fibers
Producers sell new fibers to fabric manufacturers as unbranded commodities or as brand-name fibers
Trademarked variants assure consumers that the quality of the fiber has been controlled
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39. Marketing Manufactured Fibers
Chemical companies that produce fibers maintain a steady flow of advertising and publicity to trade and consumer markets
Often cooperative advertising is done to share costs, such as by a manufacturer and a retailer
The American Fiber Manufacturers Association, Inc. promotes the use of manufactured fibers

40. Spinning Fibers into Yarns
Yarn production follows fiber production
The process of spinning draws, twists, and winds fibers into long, cohesive strands
Monofilament yarns are simply single filaments, usually of a high denier
Multifilament yarns are made by twisting together many single filaments to make a thicker strand
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41. Spinning Fibers into Yarns
Staple fibers go through a mechanical spinning process that forms a continuous strand
Ply yarns are formed by twisting together two or more single yarns
Each yarn strand is called a ply
Staple fibers are sometimes left unspun for filling pillows or comforters
This is called fiberfill

42. Yarn Blends and Textures
Yarn characteristics can be changed by varying the fiber content
A blend is made when two or more fibers are put together before being spun into yarn
Different percentages of fibers in blends produce specific results
Combination yarns contain two or more yarn plys, each of different fibers
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43. Yarn Blends and Textures
Another form of combination yarn might mix yarns of various fiber compositions or twist levels
Yarns of manufactured fibers are usually textured by processing with chemicals, heat, or special machinery
Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns

44. Marketing Yarn
The National Council of Textile Organizations has four separate councils representing the fiber, fabric, supplier, and yarn industries
This organization
deals with trade laws, customs regulations, packaging, labeling, and product standards
collects economic data to anticipate trends
holds seminars and workshops for members

45. Fashion Insights
Raw materials play a vital role in the design, uses, and care qualities of finished fabrics
The two types of natural fibers are
cellulosic fibers from plants
protein fibers from animals sources
Leather and fur are also raw materials used in fashion products

46. In Summary Manufactured fibers are either cellulosic or noncellulosic
Fiber innovation is achieved by engineering the long chains of chemical compounds called polymers
The spinning process twists fibers into monofilament, multifilament, or spun yarns