1. FASH 15 textiles
special-purpose finishes

2. special-purpose finishes
AKA functional finishes
chemical finishes applied to fabrics to enhance performance and specific end uses
add to product cost & value
may be invisible or beyond consumer perception
many topical some wet processed in order to facilitate absorption of finish into fiber

3. stabilization—shrinkage control
fabric is stable when retains original size & shape during use and care
relaxation shrinkage—occurs during washing, steam pressing or dry cleaning; most occurs during first care cycle
progressive shrinkage—continues at smaller rates for several additional care cycles
cotton, flax, lyocell & HWM rayon exhibit relaxation shrinkage
regular rayon exhibits high relaxation shrinkage & moderate progressive shrinkage
wool exhibits moderate relaxation shrinkage & high progressive shrinkage
other properly set MF exhibit relaxation shrinkage & no progressive shrinkage

4. stabilization—shrinkage control
relaxation shrinkage finishes
knit fabrics shrink due to stitch elongation during manufacture—return to normal size during laundering
minimized by overfeeding fabric between sets of rollers to induce lengthwise shrinkage; loop drying; heat setting of thermo-plastic fibers
woven fabrics shrink when wetting relaxes strain of manufacture—most noticeable in filling direction
compressive shrinkage used to maximize shrinkage

5. stabilization—shrinkage control
progressive shrinkage finishes
thermoplastic fibers—
stabilized by heat setting; when properly set, have no progressive shrinkage & little relaxation shrinkage
wool fibers—
surface coating—polyamide solution enables fibers to move back and forth without entangling; controls shrinkage, pilling & fuzzing
halogenation—chlorine partially dissolves scales and reduces felting shrinkage
rayon fibers—
resins reduce fiber swelling & make it resistant to distortion

6. shape-retention finishes
durable press—
items that retain shape and pressed appearance even after many uses, washings & tumble dryings; applied before or after fabric has cured
durable press wool—
achieved with combination resin treatments to impart durable-press characteristics & control excessive shrinkage
durable-press silk—
polycarboxylic acid used to keep silk from wrinkling easily when wet; cuts down on strength, adds stiffness & decreases whiteness

7. appearance-retention finishes
soil- and stain-release—
reduce degree of soiling of fabric by repelling soil or preventing formation of bonds between soil & fabric; mechanically or chemically bonded to surface—organic silicone or fluorocarbon substances
abrasion-resistant—
thermoplastic acrylic resins that fix fibers more firmly into yarns so they don’t break off as readily
antislip—
used on low-count, smooth-surface woven fabrics & some sheer, open knits to prevent movement of yarns within fabric

8. appearance-retention finishes
fume-fading-resistant—
used on dye-fiber combinations that are susceptible to fading when exposed to atmospheric fumes or pollutants
surface or back coatings—
used on back of fabrics to:
reduce heat transfer
alter fabric appearance
lock yarns in place
control porosity
minimize air & water permeability

9. appearance-retention finishes
light-stabilizing—
apply light-stabilizing or ultraviolet-absorbing compounds to fabrics to minimize damage from light exposure
pilling-resistant—
minimize the formation of tiny balls of fiber bits on a fabric’s surface
anti-yellowing—
prevents nitrogen oxides from vehicle exhaust from combining with BHT in plastic wrap that fabric is generally stored in

10. comfort-related finishes
water-repellent finishes—
resists wetting; depends upon surface tension & fabric penetrability; generally calendared & then chemically applied
waterproof fabric—
will not wet regardless of length & force of exposure to water
moisture management finishes—
remove sweat from skin’s surface & help cool body

11. comfort-related finishes
porosity-control—
used to limit penetration of fabric by air
water-absorbent—
increase moisture absorbency of fabric & its drying time
ultra-violet absorbent—
incorporate chemical compounds
or nanoparticles that absorb
energy in UV region of
electromagnetic spectrum

12. comfort-related finishes
antistatic—
controlled with humidity in natural-fiber fabrics
with thermoplastic fibers controlled by:
improving surface conductivity
attracting water molecules
neutralizing electrostatic charge
fabric softeners—
improve hand of harsh textiles
phase-change finishes—
minimize heat flow through a fabric—insulate against temperature extremes

13. biological-control finishes
insect- and moth-control—
AKA fumigants, insecticides, insect-repellent
moth control usually by chemical (Permethrin) at scouring or dyeing stage
insect control methods:
cold storage—decreases insect activity; museum use, generally not practical for consumer
odors—mothballs; poison and should be used with caution
stomach poisons—fluorides & silicofluorides used for dry-cleanable wool
contact poisons—such as DDT; very effective but banned in US
chemical additives—in dye bath permanently alter fiber; make it unpalatable by larvae; may yellow or cause color loss

14. biological-control finishes
rot-proof—
used primarily on technical products used outdoors to improve durability & longevity
antimicrobial—
leachable (not bonded to fiber)
nonleachable (bonded to fiber or used as additives)
inhibit growth of microbes
reduce or prevent odor
prevent decay and damage from perspiration
control spread of disease
reduce risk of infection after injury

15. biological-control finishes
microencapsulated—
smart textile finish that incorporates a water-soluble or other material in a tiny capsule form—
may contain fragrance, insect repellents, disinfectants, cleaning agents, cooling/warming chemicals, lotions, oils to relieve stress, deodorants, activated charcoal, etc…

16. safety-related finishes
fire retardance—
resistance to combustion of a material when tested under specified conditions
flame resistance—
property of a material whereby flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited by following application of a flaming or nonflaming source of ignition, with or without subsequent removal of ignition source
flammability—
characteristics of material that pertain to its relative ease of ignition and relative ability to sustain combustion
flame-retardant finishes—
function in variety of ways: block flame’s access or extinguish flame
can be durable or non-durable
less expensive than flame-resistant fibers

17. safety-related finishes
liquid-barrier—
protect wearer from liquids penetrating through fabric—important to health care professionals, agricultural & chemical workers
light-reflecting—
used on fabrics to increase visibility of wearers in low-light conditions

18. participation activity:
special-purpose finishes
…using the text & internet as your resources, research one of the special-purpose finishes that we have discussed in class today, one that is of particular interest to you
…summarize how the finish is created, applied or integrated into the fabric and what the particular reasoning for that finish is…elaborate upon what has been covered in class