1. HAIRSTYLING
THE CLIENT WILL OFTEN JUDGE YOUR WORK BY THE FINISHED STYLE
CLIENT CONSULTATION 1ST STEP
TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION ALL YOU LEARNED IN CHAPTER 14: FACE SHAPE, HAIR TYPE AND LIFESTYLE

2. FINGERWAVING ALL THE RAGE IN 20’S
FINGERWAVING- ART OF SHAPING HAIR USING FINGERS, COMBS, IN TO AN “S” PATTERN

3. FINGER-WAVING LOTION
TYPE OF HAIR GEL OR LOTION THAT MAKES HAIR PLIABLE TO KEEP IT IN PLACE
MADE FROM KARAYA GUM
DILUTE FOR FINE HAIR
GOOD LOTION DOES NOT FLAKE WHEN DRY
APPLY: HEAVY SIDE FIRST

4. WAVES ARE CREATED: HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL AND DIAGONAL
HORIZONTAL-sideways and parallel
VERTICAL- up and down the head
DIAGONAL- slight angle

5. Pin Curls
Pin curls are basis for patterns, lines, waves: wide range of hairstyles
Work best when hair is layered
Smooth tightly wound
ribboning
Alternative to wrapping

6. Parts of a Pin Curl
Base – stationary foundation of the curl; area closest to scalp
stem-sec. between base and first arc; gives curl direction and movement
Circle-forms the complete circle; determines width and strength/wave

7. Mobility of a Pin Curl Stem determines mobility or movement
Classified as no stem, half stem, full stem

8. No Stem Pin Curl Placed directly on its base:minimum mobility
Produces tight firm,
long lasting curl

9. Half Stem Pin Curl The circle is placed half on and half off its base
Permits movement; gives good control to hair
This square base is half stem curl
circle
½ base
Stem

10. Full Stem Curl Allows for greatest mobility
Curl placed completely off base
Full freedom or mobility; used to
give hair direction
Curl sits completely
Off its base

11. ?????????????????????????????
The first step in the hairstyling process should be?
What is shaping the hair into S formations used for?
How would you create a horizontal finger wave?

12. Answers Client consultation Finger Waving
Parallel ridges around the head
Describe the type of pin curl that give firm long lasting curls
No stem pin curl

13. Shaping for Pin Curl Bases
SHAPING-section of
hair molded in a circ.
Movement in preparation
for theformation of Pin
Curls
Shaping are open or
closed
Begin pin curls at the
open end (convex side

14. Open Center Curls

15. Open Center Pincurls
open center curls produce smooth even waves

16. Closed Center Pincurls
Get small towards ends
Closed center good for fine hair
If fluffy comb out is desired
Width of the curl determines size of the wave

17. Curl and Stem Direction
FORWARD Curls turned toward face
Reverse –away from face
Downward stem
Stems can go up or down
Clockwise with hand of clock
Counter clockwise

18. Pin Curl Bases and Foundations
Square Base- curly styles: no vol.
Rectangle- upsweep effect
usually on side area
Arc-half moon or C shape:nape area
Triangle –front facial-
prevents splits or breaks

19. Pin Curl Technique
Ribboning- forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb
Creates tension

20. Carved or Sculptured Curls
Pin Curls sliced from a shaping
Formed without lifting the hair
Using tail comb gingerly pick up piece of hair, ribbon it, and form a curl

21. Designing with Pin Curls
Skip waves – alternating ridges and curls
Ridge Curls- curls placed behind a ridge

22. Cascade or Stand-Up Pin Curls
Can use any base
Good for height or volume
The size of curl determines height
Stand Up Pin Curls

23. Double Prong Only
yes No

24. Stem Mobility
Full stem curl
No stem curl
Half stem curl

25. Blow Dry or Thermal Styling

26. Classic Styling Brush Half round rubber base 7 or 9 rows
Nylon tipped bristles
Heat resistant
Smoothing and removing tangles
Blow drying w/little volume

27. Grooming Brush Oval w/boar and nylon bristles
Boar helps distribute scalp oils
Nylon stimulates Circulation
Adding polish and shine-fine to med. Hair
Great for Updo’s

28. Vent Brush Ventilated design speeds up blow drying
Adds lift at the scalp; especially fine hair
Use in beginning to remove water

29. Round Brush Different diameters Hair should wrap around only twice
Smaller will add curl
Medium –lift hair at scalp
Larger for beveling ends /straightening
Metal bases are heated by dryer

30. Combs and picks Distribute and part hair
Variety of sizes to adapt to many styling options
Teeth closely spaced together create smooth surface
Larger spaced teeth create more textured surfaces and are used for larger areas

31. Sectioning clips Metal or plastic
Some have long prongs others clamp with teeth
Hold hair in place when working or cutting
Do not let wet sectioned hair sit on dried hair

32. Styling Products Liquid tools Hold, shine and body to styles
Greatly enhance a style
Consider type of hair: fine-coarse?
Heavy products cause hair to cling adding definition
Weigh down the hair
Foam/fine hair

33. Foam or Mousse Light airy whipped product: Builds volume and body
Massage into damp hair
Good for fine hair
Holds 6 to 8 hours
Conditioning foams for dry hair

34. Gel Heavier product Strongest control for molded or slicked styles
Long lasting body
May overwhelm fine hair
Liquid gels aka texturizers: lighter less viscous; good for all hair types

35. Straightening Gel Apply to damp hair For wavy to extremely curly
Creates smooth styles
All hair types: provides most hold in outdoor conditions
Show clients: put on hands when styling

36. Volumizers Spray at base of scalp prior to blow drying
Adds volume and body
Can add light gel or mousse to hair ends

37. Pomade AKA Wax adds weight
Causes hair to stick together: dry hair
Hair easily molded

38. Silicone or Shine Products
Adds glossy sheen; creates texture
Non-oily to add finish and shine or to protect during styling
Gloss w/o weight

39. Hair Spray Aka finishing spray Holds hair in shape
Most widely used product
Aerosol and pump
Variety of holding strengths

40. Preparation Thermal Style
Shampoo-double towel method
Towel dry
Remove tangles wide tooth comb
Replace drape with neck strip/ cape
Apply liquid products
Begin removing water from hair
Section-begin styling

41. Diffusing long, curly natural hair
Drape- shampoo
Shampoo- condition- remove tangles
w/wide tooth comb
Re-drape w/neck strip –cape
Styling product and comb
Section hair
attach diffuser
Lift hair let sit on top of diffuser
Gently run fingers thru hair being diffused

42. Blow Drying Straight or Wavy
Shampoo
apply volumizing spray or
mousse
Use vent brush to remove
water
Section up hair-begin at bottom
Working nape to crown
Direct airflow from scalp to ends
Work in sections
Blow dry follows the brush

43. Hair Wrapping
Great smoothing and straightening technique to use without heated tools
Can be used on any hair type
Produces long lasting results
Can be done wet or dry
Extremely curly hair should be relaxed first
If looking for more height on top:
Place a few large rollers on top and wrap the bottom

44. Hair Wrapping Techniques
Applying a light gel will help hold the style when dry
If dry, use a silicone product for gloss
Wrap hair in clockwise direction
Once finished use a neck wrap to hold the style in place with a bobby pin
Place client under hooded dryer for 45 minutes
If dry, let sit for 17 minutes

46. Marcel Irons
Rod- fixed, shell movable, handle and swivel

47. Thermal Curling Irons -Marcel Waving
Good quality steel
Used on dry hair
Conventional- Stove heated- used excessively curl hair
Electric- most common ½ -3’’ barrel
Electric Vaporizing- small amount of water added to create steam

48. Types……

49. Barrel Sizes

50. Types of Thermal Iron Curls
Spiral- winding strand around rod suitable for long or medium lengths
End curls- smooth finished appearance to hair ends
Figure 6 loop end on outside of iron
Fig. 8- 1st loop on inside or iron, 2nd loop on outside; same as fig. 6
Barrel- hold hair end in left hand rotate iron with right hand until end disappears

51. Curl Bases Volume Based Curls-135o maximum- Full Base Curls- 125o;
volume sits high on base
Full Base Curls- 125o;
strong curl with volume
Half Base Curl 90o;
strong curl, moderate lift
Off Base Curl- 70o;
curl w/slight lift
ALL CURLS START 2” FROM BASE; HEAT STRAND FOR 5 SECONDS TO SET THE BASE

52. Testing Hot Tools After heating iron test on white paper or cloth
Clamp heated iron on cloth wait 5 sec.
If scorches too hot
Wait a minute to cool down
Might scorch or discolor white hair

53. Temperature No one temp for all hair
Temperature will depend on texture of the hair
Hair that has been chemically treated or colored should use gentle heat
As a rule, coarse & grey hair can withstand more heat than fine hair

54. SAFETY Practice on a COLD iron first!!! Do not over heat irons
Rolling the iron in your hand forward first, then backward!
Do not over heat irons
Keep irons clean
Test temperature before use
Use only hard rubber comb (not Celluloid)
Do not allow hair ends to protrude
Lower setting on lightened or tinted hair
Do not use metal combs (burn scalp)

55. Flat Irons Two heated plates; range from ½” to 3” across
Smooth or straighten hair
Edges can be used to bend hair
Inner edge is nearest stylist
Constant even heat

56. Care of Thermal Irons Electrical Irons Non-Electrical Irons
Wipe down the barrel with soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia
Wait till cool
Never over heat
Non-Electrical Irons
Immerse cold-iron barrel in solution

57. Always Remember: How are we going to practice rolling our irons?
How will we clean our thermal irons?
When do we use non-electrical thermal irons?
What is another name for thermal waving?