1 Basic Construction Fundamentals Chapter 65

2 Unit Construction Prepare separate garment pieces first, and then assemble in specific order Prepare separate garment pieces first, and then assemble in specific order

3 Stay-stitch Stay-stitch Sewing a row of regular machine stitches through one layer of fabric Sewing a row of regular machine stitches through one layer of fabric Directional stitching Directional stitching Stitching the same direction as the grain in the fabric Stitching the same direction as the grain in the fabric

4 Shape to Fit the Body Dart, tucks, gathers Dart, tucks, gathers Darts = triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point Darts = triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point Tucks = fold of fabric stitched from top to bottom and used to shape a garment Tucks = fold of fabric stitched from top to bottom and used to shape a garment Gathers = small, soft folds of fabric created by sliding fabric along two parallel rows of machine basting Gathers = small, soft folds of fabric created by sliding fabric along two parallel rows of machine basting

5 Gathers Need to sew two rows of basting stitches to gather. By doing so, final sewing is easier and neater when the fabric is pulled together with two sets of stitches. Need to sew two rows of basting stitches to gather. By doing so, final sewing is easier and neater when the fabric is pulled together with two sets of stitches. The gathers are more even, and the fabric less likely to slip out of place and get caught under the needle. Gathering creates tension on thread. The gathers are more even, and the fabric less likely to slip out of place and get caught under the needle. Gathering creates tension on thread. With two threads, there is less pressure on each and less chance for breakage. With two threads, there is less pressure on each and less chance for breakage.

6 Stitching Seams seams are 5/8 inch wide seams are 5/8 inch wide Backstitch = sew in reverse by using the reverse lever on your machine Backstitch = sew in reverse by using the reverse lever on your machine

7 Additional Seam Techniques Trimming = cut seam allowance to half its width Trimming = cut seam allowance to half its width Grading = cut each layer of seam allowance slightly narrower than the previous layer Grading = cut each layer of seam allowance slightly narrower than the previous layer Clipping = clip seam allowances that curve inward Clipping = clip seam allowances that curve inward Notching = notch seams that curve outward (Figure 65.4) Notching = notch seams that curve outward (Figure 65.4)

8 Finishing Seams Pinked or stitched-and-pinked Pinked or stitched-and-pinked Use pinking shears Use pinking shears Zigzagged Zigzagged Stitch close to raw edges Stitch close to raw edges Narrow width for lightweight fabrics Narrow width for lightweight fabrics Wider widths for heavier weight fabrics Wider widths for heavier weight fabrics

9 Clean-finished Turn edge of seal allowance under ¼ inch and press flat Turn edge of seal allowance under ¼ inch and press flat Bound Bound put double-fold bias tape over raw edge put double-fold bias tape over raw edge

10 Interfacing Lightweight, woven or non-woven fabric that is put between layers of garment fabric to prevent stretching and add body and shape Lightweight, woven or non-woven fabric that is put between layers of garment fabric to prevent stretching and add body and shape 1. fusible 1. fusible 2. sewn in 2. sewn in

11 Interfacing Interfacing comes in a wide range of weights and several colors. Interfacing comes in a wide range of weights and several colors. Different kinds are available for all types of fabrics. Different kinds are available for all types of fabrics. Some add body, others add crispness for in cuffs and collars. Some add body, others add crispness for in cuffs and collars.

12 Ask for help if you aren’t sure of which interfacing to purchase. Ask for help if you aren’t sure of which interfacing to purchase. Follow the instructions while applying fusible interfacing or it may become wavy and bubbles and can’t be smoothed out. Follow the instructions while applying fusible interfacing or it may become wavy and bubbles and can’t be smoothed out.

13 Facings Piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of garment Piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of garment Figure 65.7 Figure 65.7

14 Pressing 1. Lift iron and lower 1. Lift iron and lower **ironing is gently gliding back and forth **ironing is gently gliding back and forth

15 Ironing Remove pins before pressing to avoid scratching the iron or marking the fabric. Remove pins before pressing to avoid scratching the iron or marking the fabric. Press on the inside of the fabric whenever possible to avoid shine. Don’t use heavy pressure, allow steam to do the work. Press on the inside of the fabric whenever possible to avoid shine. Don’t use heavy pressure, allow steam to do the work.

16 Ironing, cont… Use a tailor’s ham when pressing curved seams and darts to avoid flattening the curved shape. Use a tailor’s ham when pressing curved seams and darts to avoid flattening the curved shape. Press vertical darts toward the center of the garment. Press horizontal and diagonal darts downward toward the lower edge of the garment. Press vertical darts toward the center of the garment. Press horizontal and diagonal darts downward toward the lower edge of the garment.

17 Napped Fabrics Napped fabric, like corduroy and velvet, can be pressed on the outside by holding the iron over the fabric so only the steam touches the fabric. Napped fabric, like corduroy and velvet, can be pressed on the outside by holding the iron over the fabric so only the steam touches the fabric. When pressing on the inside use very light pressure so not to flatten the nap. When pressing on the inside use very light pressure so not to flatten the nap.

18 Some professional tailors use a velvet board to press napped fabric. A velvet board is covered on one side with fine wires. Some professional tailors use a velvet board to press napped fabric. A velvet board is covered on one side with fine wires. When a napped fabric is placed face down on the board, the wires push through the nap and support the fabric. When a napped fabric is placed face down on the board, the wires push through the nap and support the fabric. It can be pressed without crushing the nap. It can be pressed without crushing the nap.

19 Pattern pieces that are meant to stretch are often cut on the bias. A bias-cut edge allows the fabric to curve and fit the body. It also allows narrow strips of fabric to be tied, more easily into knots and bows. Pattern pieces that are meant to stretch are often cut on the bias. A bias-cut edge allows the fabric to curve and fit the body. It also allows narrow strips of fabric to be tied, more easily into knots and bows. However, stretching a bias-cut edge as it is sewn can pull the fabric out or shape. Bias-cut edges are less likely to ravel than edges cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. However, stretching a bias-cut edge as it is sewn can pull the fabric out or shape. Bias-cut edges are less likely to ravel than edges cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain.

20 Real Life Application After Blake slipped on her prom dress, she stood in front of the mirror. Something was wrong. The dress didn’t look at all like it had when she had tried it on in the store several days ago. The velvet now looked shiny. It’s softness was gone too. After Blake slipped on her prom dress, she stood in front of the mirror. Something was wrong. The dress didn’t look at all like it had when she had tried it on in the store several days ago. The velvet now looked shiny. It’s softness was gone too. What might have happened? What might have happened? Perhaps ironed wrong?? Perhaps ironed wrong??

21 Activity Students are to create a portfolio. Students are to create a portfolio. They are to measure 6 inch squares. They are to measure 6 inch squares. On each square they are to show: On each square they are to show: Basting, gathering, darts, buttonhole, button placement, hemming Basting, gathering, darts, buttonhole, button placement, hemming