1. Unit 4 Clothing/Project Construction
Clothing Management
Unit 4
Clothing/Project Construction
Tonja Bolding
Lakeside High School
Revised 2010

2. Unit 4 terms
1. backstitching—stitching forward then using the reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam 2. bias—grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric 3. casing—a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring inside 4. crosswise grain —grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to the other 5. dart— a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape in a garment 6. directional stitching —stitching with, or in the same direction, as the fabric grain 7. easing—joining two edges of fabric together when one edge is slightly larger than the other 8. facing—used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or neckline

3. 9. gathering—soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches
10. grade—to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce bulk
11. grain line- grain of fabric; the direction in which the thread runs in a fabric
12. guide sheet —step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern
13. interfacing—a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric and facing to prevent stretching and add shape
14. layout—a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric
15. lengthwise grain —grain that runs the same direction as the selvage
16. machine basting-using the longest stitch possible on the machine for easy removal
17. notions —small items that become a permanent part of the garment

4. 18. pattern—all the instructions needed to construct a project
19. pattern symbols —lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction
20. seam—line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together
21. seam allowance —width between the fabric edge and seam line
22. seam finish —treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling
23. stay stitching—a row of machine stitches through one layer of fabric to prevent stretching
24. top stitching—a row of stitching done on the outside of a garment
25. under stitching—a row of stitching used to keep the facing or bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight

5. Consider your sewing skill level Pattern use Personal taste
4.1 Name guidelines for pattern (all the instructions needed to construct a project) selection
Consider your sewing skill level
Pattern use
Personal taste
Determine your size
Take bust or chest, waist and hip or seat measurements.
Pattern sizes may or may not correspond to ready-to- wear sizes.

6. 4.2 Explain information found on a pattern envelope
notions (small items that become a permanent part of the garment)
back and front views
body measurements
finished garment measurement
number of pattern pieces
size
suggested fabrics
yardage chart

7. explanation of markings step by step instructions
4.3 Explain information found on a pattern guide sheet (step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern)
cutting layout (a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric)
by fabric width
by pattern size
by view
explanation of markings
step by step instructions

8. dot, squares and triangles
4.4 Name pattern symbols (lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction)
adjustment lines
buttonhole placement
cutting line
dart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape in garment)
dot, squares and triangles
grain lines (grain of fabric; the direction in which threads run in fabric)
crosswise grain (grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to the other)
lengthwise grain (grain that runs the same direction as the selvage)
hem lines
notches
place on fold line
placement lines
stitching line
seam (line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together)
seam allowance (width between the fabric edge and seam line)

9. 4.5 Name basic sewing tools and use of each
Tape measure
6” seam gauge
fabric pen
tracing wheel
seam ripper
tailor's chalk
thimble

10. Sewing Tools pincushion with emery pack pins needle scissors shears
rotary cutter

11. 4.6 Name basic parts of the sewing machine and functions of each
bobbin case- holds the bobbin in the machine and regulates the tension of the bobbin thread
feed dog- teeth that move the fabric under the presser foot
hand wheel- controls the movement of the take-up lever; may be turned by hand to raise or lower needle
needle clamp- holds the needle firmly in the machine; loosened and tightened by a screw
presser foot- holds the fabric against the feed as you stitch
presser foot lifter- used to raise and lower the presser foot
reverse control- allows backward stitching
spool pin- holds the spool of thread
take-up lever- controls the flow of needle thread; should be at its highest point before sewing to prevent the machine from unthreading itself
tension control- regulates the tension placed on the needle thread by tightening or loosening the tension discs that the upper thread passes through
thread guide- help guide upper thread from spool to needle without tangling
throat or needle plate- located directly under the needle and surrounds the food dog; usually has seam width guidelines to help keep stitching straight

12. 4.7 Describe guidelines for operating a sewing machine
threading the machine
winding a bobbin
placing bobbin in bobbin case
raising the bobbin thread
adjusting stitch length control
adjusting stitch pattern control
reverse stitch/backstitching (stitching forward then using the reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam)
stitch a 5/8 seam allowance (width between the fabric edge and seam line)
machine basting (using the longest stitch possible on the machine for easy removal)

13. 4.8 Describe guidelines and safety procedures for operating a serger
Sergers provide a professional
seam finish (treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling)
I will demonstrate the procedure

14. Use a slow speed when learning how to use the machine.
Keep your fingers away form the needle.
Do not lean your face too close when stitching in case the needle breaks.
Do not stitch over pins. Carefully remove them as you sew.
Keep pins in a pin cushion, never in your mouth or clothes.
Keep shears and scissors closed when not using them.
Pass shears and scissors handle first to another person.
Keep all tools in your sewing box when not in use.
Do not stretch the cord of the iron across traffic area.
Do not touch a hot iron except on the handle.
Keep your fingers and face away from the steam of an iron.
Do not overfill the iron or the water can boil out.
Always rest the iron on its heel, not flat down on the soleplate.
Turn off and unplug the iron after each use.
Drain the water from the iron before storing.

15. Woven Fabrics medium weight, firmly woven are best for beginners
4.9 Identify basic reasons for choosing woven and knitted fabric for a specific project
Woven Fabrics
medium weight, firmly woven are best for beginners
small, all over print helps hide small sewing mistakes
will not stretch unless on the bias (grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric)
require techniques for a better fit
casing (a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring
inside ) at waistline
dart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape
in a garment) at bust and/or waist line
refer to pattern envelope for suggested fabrics for the chosen pattern

16. Knit Fabrics may stretch in one or both directions
harder to sew for beginners
ideal for sportswear
refer to pattern envelope for suggested fabrics for the chosen pattern

17. 4.10 Explain steps involved when construction a sewing project
Getting Started:
Read pattern guide sheet
Select correct pattern pieces needed for views
Straighten grain of fabric
layout pieces according to guide sheet
note markings for special placement such as bias (grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric)
check grain line
cut patterns out correctly

18. Be familiar with terminology:
4.10 Explain steps involved when construction a sewing project -continued-
Be familiar with terminology:
directional stitching (stitching with, or in the same direction, as the fabric grain)
easing (joining two edges of fabric together when one edge is slightly larger than the other)
facing (used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or neckline)
gathering (soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches)
grade (to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce bulk)
interfacing (a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric and facing to prevent stretching and add shape)
stay stitching (a row of machine stitches through one layer of fabric to prevent stretching)
top stitching (a row of stitching done on the outside of a garment)
under stitching (a row of stitching used to keep the facing or bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight)

19. 4.11 Describe a computerized monogramming machine
plan placement of design
select correct hoop size
select type of stabilizer
consider type of fabric
select correct thread type
Janome 5000
embroidery machine
embroidery
thread
Clothsetter
stabilizer
embroidery
hoop

20. 4.12 Identify correct procedures for specific hand sewing techniques

21. Things that will be looked for in evaluating your project:
4.13 List factors to consider in evaluating a project according to basic construction techniques
Things that will be looked for in evaluating your project:
back stitch at beginning and end
buttons, snaps, etc. properly sewn (if applicable)
even seam width
hem properly placed
no puckers, gathers or pleats in seamline
overall appearance
threads clipped