1. Machine Stitching Techniques
Obj Understand Engineering & Construction

2. Stitch Lengths Stitch Length is determined by the purpose.
A medium stitch length is most common.
Basting stitches are very long.
Reinforcement stitches are very short.

3. Standard Stitching Use: Permanent seams & construction details.
Most Fabrics: inches
Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between stitches per inch.
Heavy Fabrics: Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.

4. Basting
Machine basting holds two pieces of fabric together until they are permanently stitched.
Used also on a single layer of fabric for:
Easing
Gathering
Marking guidelines

5. Reinforcement Stitching
Adds strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners.
Short stitch – stitches per inch.

6. Stay-stitching Prevents fabric stretching
Placed along bias & curved edges
Added after:
Fabric marking
Before pinning
Basting
Permanent stitching

7. Stay-Stitching cont.
Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance.
Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.

8. Directional Stitching
Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching.
Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.

9. Standard Seam Stitching
Produces
Plain seam: 5/8 inch
5/8 inch seam
Used in most patterns.

10. Backstitching Secures the ends of a row of stitching.
Begin ½ inch in from end.
Stitch backward to edge of fabric.
Continue sewing to other end.
Backstitch ½ inch from end.
Secures the ends of a row of stitching.

11. Understitching & Facings
Understitching is a row of stitching you sew close to the seam line through the facing and the seam allowances.
Facings cover the raw edges in a garment such as the armholes, neckline, or other garment opening.

12. Understitching
Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight.
Created from standard stitching
Stitch from right side of fabric through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.

13. Topstitching
Decorative and/or functional stitching placed on the outside of a garment.
Outlines – Seams
Secures - Facings
Attaches – Pockets
Stitches - Pleats
Holds - Hems

14. Edgestitching Holds fabric & seams in place.
Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge.
Used in areas as:
Neck edges
Zippers

15. Stitch-in-the-ditch
Holds two or more layers of fabric together at the seams.
Secures:
Necklines
Armholes
Waistband facings
Standard stitching on the outside of a garment in the groove of a seam line.

16. Zigzag Stitching Zigzag stitch uses: Finish seams Stitch buttonholes
Attach cording & elastic
Create decorative designs.
Button Hole
Seam Finish

17. Specialty Stitches Most machines have a variety of specialty stitches.
Add decorative aspect to garment
Can be made by a serger or sewing machine.
Machine & Serger
specialty stitches