1. Sewing Definitions & Notes: Strand 4 Construction Samples
Magic Sewing Tricks

2. Interfacing Adds body, shape & stability to a project
Fusible vs. Sew-In
Lightweight, feather-weight, heavy,
Stretch interfacing
Collars, facings, handles, yokes…
Does NOT have to be on grain!
Just be space-conscience

3. Stay-Stitching
Purpose: Stitching used to stabilize & prevent stretching during construction
Most often on necklines
How: Stitch ½” from edges
(note if any of this stitching ends up showing on the right side of garment after its sewn, unpick it)
Staystitch Video

4. Facings
Purpose: To finish raw edges that can’t just be hemmed (usually because of curves or corners)
Often found in Necklines, Collars, Front Openings, Armholes and Waistlines

5. Concave vs. Convex Curves
Sewing Curved Seams Video

6. Clipping Purpose: Release tension on a concave curve
How: Straight cuts into S.A. at ~1/2” intervals
(NOT THROUGH STITCHING LINE)

7. Notching Purpose: Reduce Bulk from a convex curve
How: V-shape cuts into S.A. at ~1/2” intervals
(NOT THROUGH STITCHING LINE)

8. Draw in where you would NOTCH and where you would clip on these curves
ConCAVE ConVEX

9. Grading Purpose: Reduce bulk in seam allowances
How: trim FACING fabric’s
S.A. to 1/8”-1/4”
Grading Seam Allowances Video

10. Understitching
Purpose: Row of stitching that holds seam allowance to one side, prevents facing from rolling to the front side
How: Press the S.A. toward the facing and stitch 1/8” from the seam
Understitching Video

11. Understitching

12. Darts Purpose: Tailoring technique to fit around body curves
How: Mark dart with dressmaker pen
2. Fold along center dart line
3. Sew from edge to dart point
4. Do not back stitch at the dart point. Dart Video

13. Tucks How to Sew and Press Tucks Video What is a tuck?
How to measure Tucks?
How to press tucks?

14. Pleats
All pleats involve folding fabric. Each type of fold creates a different type of pleat
Types
Knife How to Make Pleats
Box

15. Gathering 2 Rows of stitching Gathering Video
1. Sew two rows of basting Stitches
Row 1: 1 slightly wider than the seam allowance
Row 2: 1/4” away from the first in the seam allowance.
Leave thread tails
Do not backstitch!

16. Gathering
Pull both bobbin threads until the gathering piece is the correct length for your fabric.

17. Gathers Pin the gathered piece to the flat piece.
Adjust the gathers so they are evenly distributed.
Pin in Place.
Sew with the gathered side up.
Even Distribution
uneven

18. Hook and Eye
A type of fastener or method of closing the top of a waistband, neckline, center front on a garment.
Use a round eye for edges that meet.
Use a straight eye for edges that overlap like the skirt/pant hook and bar that is shown.

19. Attaching a Hook & Eye See text book instructions: page 530
Watch the video.
Sewing on a hook and eye using a Blanket Stitch.

20. Hems Hemming is the method used to finish the lower edge of a garment.
The type of hem to use depends on the garment.
Hand Sewn hems
Machine Stitched hems
Double fold
Machine blind hem
Rolled hems
Narrow rolled hem
Serged rolled hem

21. Steps to hemming 1. Mark the hem length 2. Turn up the hem
try on the garment and pin in place
2. Turn up the hem
Measure the width and press in place
3. Finish the hem edge
Clean finish or serge
4. Stitch the hem in place
Choose the method that suits your project.

22. Machine Blind Hem 1. Prepare hem 2. Thread sewing machine as usual.
a. Attach Foot #5 Blind hem video
b. Select Stitch # 7
3. Fold garment back 1/4” from the raw edge of the hem allowance so the hem lays flat against the table.
4. Stitch, guiding the folded edge of the
garment along the stitching guide on the
presser foot.
a. adjust stitch width as needed so that the
zigzag stitch barely goes through the folded
edge.
5. Check for missed stitches. Press.

23. Double Fold Hem This hem is rolled twice and then stitched.
Press the lower edge of the garment to the desired length.
Unfold hem and press the lower edge to the first line pressed.
Top stitch close to
the edge using a
single or a double needle.
Double Fold Hem Video

24. Hand stitched Hems Types of hand stitches
Use the stitch that will result
in a hem that is invisible and
durable.
See pages in the
Clothing Textbook.
Choose from the hemming stitch,
Blind Stitch or Catch Stitch to
Create your Sample

25. Take 5 You are finished with your Strand 4 Samples.
See you in a while for more Construction Techniques

26. Lapped Zippers
Video - Closed Seam Lapped Zipper Installation

27. Preparation for Lapped Zipper Installation
Machine-baste opening closed. Press seam open.
Use a zipper foot for all steps.
Keep pull tab turned up for neck or skirt application and down for side dress application.
For side dress application, whipstitch tapes together above top stop to form bar tack.
Mark bottom of zipper opening on seam allowances.

28. Step 1 – Lapped Zipper Installation
Work on inside of garment. With bottom of zipper opening away from you, extend right seam allowances. Place closed zipper face down on seam allowance with bottom stop at marking and coil or teeth next to, not on, seam. Machine-baste in place. Stitching may curve out around slider.

29. Step 2 – Lapped Zipper Installation
Change to regular stitch length. Turn zipper face up, forming a fold in the seam allowance (not in tape). Bring fold close to coil or teeth but not close enough to touch. Stitch fold to zipper tape.

30. Step 3 – Lapped Zipper Installation
With right side up, spread garment flat over the unstitched zipper tape. A pleat is formed at both ends of zipper opening. On outside of garment, mark bottom of zipper with pin. To topstitch the zipper, stitch across the bottom, pivot, and continue up the zipper. HINT: Place ½” scotch tape over the seam line for a topstitching guide with a 3/8” on the unstitched or overlap side.

31. Step 4 – Lapped Zipper Installation
To finish, bring thread ends to inside and tie. Remove machine-basting along seamline. Press.

32. History of the Zipper
Elias Howe (who invented the sewing machine) received a patent for an “automatic, continuous clothing closure” in 1851, but he did not pursue the marketing of his “closure.”
Whitcomb Judson marketed a similar device called the “clasp locker” in 1893 and is credited with having invented the zipper. His patent did not use the word zipper though.

33. History of the Zipper Cont.
Judson teamed up with a man named Lewis Walker and launched the “Universal Fastener Company,” for the item.
Later, in 1913 Gideon Sundback, who worked for the company, developed the product into what we know would recognize as the modern zipper.

34. Sleeves
Set In vs. Raglan

35. Sleeves Open Set-In: Sew in sleeve THEN side seam
Easier method when you can use it

36. Sleeves
Closed Set-In: Sew side seams in bodice & sleeve then sew together
Harder method that is used when usually with a lined sleeve & looks more tailored

37. Easing
Purpose: Making a larger piece of fabric fit with a smaller piece of fabric as a seam is sewn
How: Do 2 rows of gathering stitches ¼” and ½” from sleeve edge, lightly gather and align notches.
Don’t confuse with EASE: the amount
of extra fabric in a garment for
comfort & wearing)

38. Other stuff not in packet but one day…

39. Stitch in the Ditch

40. Basting

41. Centered Zippers

42. Invisible Zippers

43. Satin Stitch

44. Blanket Stitch

45. Hand Blanket Stitch

46. Button

47. Buttonhole

48. Elastic

49. Grainline
Place on Fold Line
Notches
Markings
Dart
Double Ended Dart