1. Sewing Notes 17-1
8th Grade

3. Sewing Machine Parts
Hand Wheel – manual control – moves take-up lever and needle up and down
Thread Guides – hold the upper thread in place as it moves through the machine
Needle – feeds the thread that forms the upper part of the stitch
Stitch Length Control (Regulator) – controls the length of the stitches
Stitch Width Control – determines width of zigzag or decorative stitches

4. Sewing Machine Parts
Presser Foot – holds fabric in place against the feed dogs
Feed Dogs – moves the fabric during stitching – found in the throat plate
Throat Plate –seam allowance markings that help keep stitching straight
Spool Pin – holds thread spools during sewing
Bobbin – small spool that form the bottom part of the stitch

5. Sewing Machine Parts
Bobbin Winding Spindle – hold bobbin while thread is being wound on
Reverse – button that allows the machine to stitch backwards
Thread Tension Control – regulates tightness and looseness of the thread
Foot Feed – pedal that controls starting, stopping and speed of the machine
Bobbin Case – hold bobbin in place during sewing – under the throat plate
Presser Foot Lifter– raises and lowers the presser foot

7. Preparing Your Pattern and Fabric Page 504
Young Living 18-1
Preparing Your Pattern and Fabric
Page 504

8. 1. Using a Guide Sheet
a set of step-by-step instructions for sewing a pattern
how to use a pattern
a diagram of the pieces
Explanation of pattern markings

9. Basic Pattern Markings
Cutting Line
Stitching Line
Grain Line
Dots
Notches
Place on Fold
Dart
For specific information regarding each marking, refer to figure 18-1 on page 507

11. Guide Sheet
Layout - Diagram of how pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric
This allows for the most efficient use of fabric – creates the least amount of waste and ensures that all the pieces fit correctly

12. 2. Preparing the Pieces
Cut apart pattern pieces, but DO NOT trim to exact measurements
Study each pieces to check for markings
Notches
Grain line
Lengthen/shorten

13. 3. Check Pattern Measurements
Check to see if the pattern fits your body type
Make length and width alterations before you cut
To lengthen – use parallel lines labeled “lengthen or shorten”
Width – measure pattern pieces to determine ease
Ease – the amount of fullness added to a pattern for movement and comfort

14. 4. Preparing the Fabric
Some fabric must be pre-washed to avoid shrinking
Check the grain of the fabric – the direction in which the threads run
Selvage – the tightly woven edge with no visible loose threads
Raw edge – the unfinished edges that have loose threads
Bias – the diagonal of the fabric

15. Preparing the Fabric To see if the fabric is on grain…
Fold fabric so the raw edges match together
If the crosswise edges meet, the fabric is on grain

16. Young Living 18-2
Starting to Sew
Page 510

17. 1. Using Pattern Pieces Pinning
Fold fabric so the right sides are together
Arrange pattern pieces according to layout
Lengthwise grain line should be parallel to selvage
Do not cut any pieces until they are all pinned in place
Place pins diagonally to cutting line – keeps fabric flat
Place pins every 3-6 inches

18. 1. Using Pattern Pieces Cutting
Place fabric flat on table, one hand holds fabric, the other cuts
Cut with long even strokes
Cut around outside of notches
Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you are ready to sew

19. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Seam
Lay 2 pieces of fabric together with right sides facing each other
Line up edges so they are even
Match all markings and notches
Pin pieces together perpendicular to the edge

20. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Stitching Straight Seams
Place fabric under presser foot and line up to seam allowance
Backstitch – stitching over ½ inch of a line of stitching at the beginning and end to lock threads in place
Guide fabric with both hands, but DO NOT push
Seam Allowance – fabric between seam line and raw edge

21. Thread Tension
The tension of your thread makes a huge impact on your final product. Stitches should be smooth and even.
Think you tension is wrong? Rethread the machine first!!!
Too Loose
Too Tight
Just Right

22. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Stitching Curved Seams
Trickier than straight seams
Guide fabric so the curve is smooth
Keep stitching an even distance from the edge

23. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Turning Corners/Pivoting
When coming to a corner, Stitch the last few stitches using the hand wheel
Lift presser foot and leave the needle in the fabric
Turn the fabric to the correct position and lower presser foot

24. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Seam Finishing
Treatments used on the seam edges to prevent the fabric from raveling
Slight raveling - stitch ¼ inch from the edge then use pinking shears
Easy raveling - stitch a zigzag line near the edge of fabric

25. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Casings
Fabric tunnel made to enclose elastic or drawstrings
Fold Down Casing
Fold garment edge ¼ inch, to the wrong side
Fold edge again to be ½ inch wider than the elastic
Pin in place and stitch near the open edge
Leave a 2 inch opening to insert elastic
Insert elastic, stitch ends together, stitch opening
Stitch in the Ditch D E D
A&B&C

26. 2. Basic Sewing Skills Hems
Fold edge to the wrong side of the fabric at desire length
Some fabric require a double fold to hide the exposed raw edge
Pin in place and stitch close to the open edge 2 1