Presented by Phillip-Todd Aveda Hair Color Purefessional ™ Color Control Presented by Phillip-Todd Aveda Hair Color Purefessional ™

Learning Objectives To relate the pigment weight of the product to the level of saturation of color in the hair Understand the concepts and differences between ammonia lift, developer lift, and non-ammonia products. Have a better understanding of how Developer strength can affect the saturation of color on the hair, how it works and how it can be used to manipulate NRP and haircolor. Connect tonal saturation in a formula to achieve the perfect end result. Understand how Hair Type affects lift and saturation in hair color. Commit to performing every color service completely with the use of all recommended steps and products. Have a more secure understanding of how placement of color affects end result, and how placement can be personalized for a current result for each guest.

Gallery Stroll

Controlling Depth and Saturation

Pastel Blondes- (Ammonia Lift, Double Developer) Pastel Paint, heavy pigment weight in the tube and with lower developers, color is diffused by the use of higher volume developers. (Pastel Pure tones can be used with Intense Base and with Universal 0n for a heavier more opaque effect.) The pastel effect comes from the use of a double developer in a higher strength.

Deposit Only Color Treatment- (No Ammonia) Watercolors, no ammonia so no drastic color changes are achievable, pigment weight is too sheer to completely cover natural haircolor. No Ammonia therefore color is only deposited on the cuticle layer and in the outer layers of the cortex.

Full Spectrum Permanent- (Developer Lift) Acrylics, more opaque permanent color with a decent pigment weight, has enough to cover natural haircolor and make it darker, also can lighten hair and has enough pigment weight to establish the desired tone at the desired level. Permanent Hair Color contains ammonia to assist in the penetration of the color molecule into the cortex.

Full Spectrum Deep- (Ammonia Lift, Double Developer) Oil Paints, heavy pigment weight, the closest to the pigment weight of natural haircolor, has inherent depth of color. Higher amount of ammonia and double developer assist in opening the cuticle and processing a heavier pigment load.

Take 2 minutes to Journal Discoveries and take a 15 minute break.

Ammonia and Hair Color Ammonia is used as an alkalizing agent to assist in opening the cuticle for permanent haircolor molecules to penetrate into the cortex of the hair where it can be oxidized by Hydrogen Peroxide.

Controlling Saturation with Developers

Aveda Conditioning Crème Color Catalysts 5 Volume 10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume Deposit Only Color Treatment Activators Crème and Liquid, both of which are 11.5 Volume.

Controlling Tonal Saturation

Updated Vibrancy Guide 15 formula variations available per level and tone. IE - 6 R/O Strength Soft Standard Strong Super Soft Super Strong Natural Formulas 40 gr. 6N 1 gr. R/O 40 mls. Color Catalyst 2 gr. R/O 3 gr. R/O .5 gr. R/O 4.5 gr. R/O Intense Formulas 30 gr. Intense Base 10 gr. 6N 4 gr. R/O 6 gr. R/O 9 gr. R/O Bright Formulas 20 gr. 6N 20 gr. Intense Base 9 gr. R/O

Take 2 minutes to Journal 1 Hour for Lunch

Pigment and Haircolor

                            Levels 1-4 Blue Pigment Blue tones are seen as brown in the hair, since brown is made up of all three pigments, blue/red/yellow. Once the blue pigment is broken down then red is revealed. Brown is made up of all three primary colors, blue, red, yellow, removing blue exposes natural remaining pigment which is made up of the remaining red and yellow pigment. Adding blue neutralizes warm tones and balances the red and yellow back to brown.

Levels 2-8 Red Pigment Red is the most prevalent color underlying all haircolor. It is present on the NRP chart in levels 2-8 and is present in all haircolor to some degree as any level of brown is made up of all three pigments Blue, Red, and Yellow. Controlling or Enhancing Red are the two options that we have in dealing with NRP since red is contributed throughout so many levels.

Levels 6-10 Yellow Pigment Yellow is the smallest of the color molecules and is the hardest to remove or break down. Yellow is the color molecule that all other molecules connect to in order to create a tone. It acts as the engine of your train connecting and driving all the other molecules to create a tone. In the days prior to NN yellow was added to formulas in order to create a gray coverage formula.

Neutralizing Unwanted Pigment Blue Red and Yellow in equal parts make Brown. In Natural hair Color, as pigment is removed or broken down by developer, this is seen in stages, blue is broken down first, exposing red and yellow, and then the red is broken down exposing yellow. In order to neutralize a color you need to replace the pigment that has been broken down or removed and bring it back to a balanced brown.

Secondary colors are made by mixing two Primary colors together. Blue and Red = Violet Blue and Yellow = Green Red and Yellow = Orange

Blue Red Yellow If you see a Secondary Reflective tone you need a primary tone to replace the replace the missing pigment, neutralize it and make it brown. If you see a Primary Reflective tone you need a secondary tone to replace the missing pigments, neutralize it, and make it brown.

Hair Type and Natural Remaining Pigment Level 5 Fine Red Red Orange Medium Coarse Red Violet

Hair Type and Lift 3 grades of lift per level determined by hair type Fine- Top of the lifting gradient / Lower Developer/ Soft Formula Medium- Center of the lifting gradient / Standard Developer/ Standard Formula Coarse – Bottom of the lifting gradient / Stronger Developer / Strong Formula

Level Hair Type Natural Remaining Pigment Detailed NRP 10 Fine Pale Yellow Palest Yellow Medium Coarse Yellow 9 Yellow Orange 8 Yellow/Orange Orange Yellow 7 Orange Orange Red 6 Red/Orange Red Orange 5 Red Red Violet 4 Red/Violet Violet Red 3 Violet Violet Blue 2 Blue /Violet Blue Violet Blue 1

This slide illustrates how different hair types can subtly affect the end result and how a slight variance in our Pure Tone choice can rebalance our color structure and create a true neutral. Level 5 Detailed NRP Neutralizing tones Corresponding Pure Tones Fine Red Orange Green Blue FSP Dark Green Blue Medium Red Green FSP Green Pure Pigment Coarse Red Violet Green Yellow FS Deep Dark Green Yellow

Hair Type and Deposit 3 grades of deposit per level determined by hair type Fine – Use a soft formula to Precolor NRP Medium – Use a standard formula to Precolor NRP Coarse- Use a strong formula to Precolor NRP

Lifting with Color on previously colored hair: Use a higher volume developer, double developer/strong formula Not predictable in Level but somewhat predictable in Shade and Tone High ammonia products lift easier with the higher percentage of ammonia in the product to lift the cuticle; Works in combination with the higher developer to break down the color molecules so the lift is achieved. Can be used successfully to refresh reds, cut down on oversaturated color that may appear muddied and drab, and raise the level of the shade. For example using Full Spectrum Deep lighter Shades 10n or 12n, Intense Base or Extra Lifting Crème as bases with double developer when lifting previous color in order to achieve the desired result without color cleansing. When using thirty or forty volume to remove pigment from previous colorations, use a strong formula to re- establish color tonality. Be sure to allow to process for the full 40 to 45 minutes for the best result.

Recommendations for refreshing color on Lengths and Ends When Refreshing Cool Colors use a softer formula than on the regrowth When Refreshing Warm Colors use a strong formula with a higher devloper on the lengths and ends

Take 2 minutes to Journal and take a 15 minute break

Controlling the Condition and Integrity of the Hair

Step One: Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution If you are applying color to hair that has been treated previously with color, or hair that has been exposed to environmental stressors, it is essential to properly prepare the hair with Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution. This protective pre-treatment repairs and evens porosity along the hair strand which acts to ensure even saturation and absorption of color. Think of it as filling in potholes in the road prior to re-paving the street in order to get a smooth finished surface as an end result.

Step Two: Product Selection The condition of the hair can be further boosted by the choice of color product that you choose to utilize on the guest.   Full Spectrum Permanent Color: Imparts condition and shine with the use of plant based ingredients and natural certified organic plant oils. Full Spectrum Deposit Only Color Treatment: Demi Permanent no ammonia color which adds shine and condition to the hair. Full Spectrum Deep: An ammonia lift color loaded with plant oils and conditioners to assist in maintaining the condition of hair because the primary use of Full Spectrum Deep is as a high lift series for brunettes. The integration of Universal 0n with the other hair color product choices increases the condition and shine of the end result.

Step Three: Developer selection. It almost seems counter intuitive that in order to achieve the cleanest healthiest result in hair color that you would want to use the lowest developer that will do the job and give you the result that you want. Too often stylist utilize the highest developers possible on the misconception that it will work faster, give brighter results and do the job more intensely. This is not always the case, sometimes by utilizing the highest developer possible you are damaging the cuticle of the hair more than is necessary, diluting pure tones which are needed to refine or enhance your end result as well as damaging the integrity of the hair color.

5 and 10 Volume Color Catalyst: Utilized to deposit color only. Little to no damage is caused by these developers since very little lifting is done to the cuticle of the hair. Longevity may be a factor when depositing with 5 volume as the color molecules do not get ‘pushed’ deep into the cortex of the hair strand.

20 Volume Color Catalyst Works in conjunction with the ammonia in the haircolor to lift the cuticle and ensure even saturation of the color molecule into the cortex where then it can oxidize the color molecule which expands and becomes a color molecule in the hair. Will achieve 2 levels of lift with Full Spectrum Permanent hair color in a one to one ratio, and up to 5 levels of lift with Extra Lifting Crème High Lift Blonding, as well as with Full Spectrum Deep when mixed in a two to one ratio with the color.

30 Volume Color Catalyst Provides up to three levels of lift in a standard Full Spectrum Permanent Hair Color application. Will provide an additional half level of lift in a Full Spectrum Deep Hair Color application. Will dilute Pure Tone strength and is recommended to use a strong formulation for Pure Tones when using 30 volume. 30 Volume is too strong to use with enlightener as it works too fast with the persulfates present in lightening products and will not break down melanin evenly in the cortex, leaving the hair spotty and uneven in its removal of melanin. It will also leave the cuticle of the hair rough and damaged as it lifts the cuticle higher than necessary in order to achieve the desired lift.

40 Volume Color Catalyst Provides 4 levels of lift in Full Spectrum Permanent Hair Color and up to one additional level of lift in a Full Spectrum Deep Hair Color application. Will dilute Pure Tone strength and is recommended to use a strong formulation for Pure Tones when using 40 volume. As with 30 volume, 40 volume color catalyst acts too fast with the persulfates in lightening products and raises the cuticle too high creating damage, to be effective in most enlightener applications. 40 Volume works very well in conjunction with a high lift ammonia product such as Extra Lifting Crème or Full Spectrum Deep to lift previously colored hair as it has the assistance of the ammonia in the product to assist in raising the cuticle of the hair and breaking down the color pigment in the hair strand.

Deposit Only Color Treatment Activator Available in a Liquid or Crème, both are 11.5 volume in strength. Crème is a moisture based developer with a creamy texture that adds moisture and condition to the coloring process, excellent for hair that is dry, or for coarse and curly hair. Liquid is a protein based developer and adds integrity and shine to the hair color service, best used on hair that has protein integrity challenges and fine to medium hair that needs a lot of reflection. Both work excellently with Full Spectrum Enlightener because it works gently and adds condition and shine to the lightening process.

Step Four: Timing Correct timing is imperative in hair color as Aveda haircolor lifts and deposits simultaneously. This means that in order to achieve the desired amount of lift, as well as the desired amount of deposit and tonal control the full processing time is necessary in order to insure the completion of those two actions.

Step Five: Color Conserve System Color Conserve was designed in order to maintain the condition and longevity of Aveda Hair Color. Color Conserve Phinish at the shampoo bowl stops the action of the hair color formula as well as brings the PH of the hair back to the neutral range and close down the cuticle, mitigating damage to the cuticle that may have been done during the hair color service. This is vital because it helps to lock in the color and smoothes the hair which in turn maintains the hair in a healthier condition.

Step Six: Botanical Hair Therapy An essential part of EVERY hair color service, Botanical Hair Therapy treatments are recommended as the last service step in an Aveda Hair Color Service to ensure the longevity and integrity of the hair color.

Step Seven: Product Recommendations

Aveda Course Survey

WORKSHOP One Day Format or Two Day Format

Mix up the intensity of formulas in your applications Take It Home Add one formula with a different product to each of your color applications Mix up the intensity of formulas in your applications Adjust your formulas for hair types and truer results

Thank You, I appreciated having you in class! PhillipTodd.Com Facebook- PhillipTodd/Seattle Hairbrained.me Haircolormagic.net Aveda.com Phillip@Philliptodd.com