Stitching by Machine Part 4

Stitching Lengths Basting Standard Reinforcement Temporarily holds Very long, 6 stitches per inch Standard Permanent seams 10 – 12 stitches per inch Reinforcement Add strength to areas Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch)

Types of Machine Stitching Stay-stitching Prevents stretching as you handle fabric Placed on bias and curved edges Directional stitching Prevents seam from stretching or changing as you stitch Stitch with the grain

Standard seam stitching 5/8 of an inch Backstitching Almost all patterns Backstitching Secures ends of a row of stitching Stitch back and then forward again

Understitching Topstitching Keeps facing from rolling out 1/8 inch On right side of fabric, see figure 12-5 page 503 Topstitching Decorative and functional Outlines seams, secures facing, holds hems See Figure 12.6 Page 503

Edge stitching Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds fabric and seams in place Topstitching very close to finished edge Zippers and neck edges figure 12.8 Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds two or more layers together Secure neckline, armhole, etc On the outside in the groove of the seam line

Zigzag stitching Specialty stitches Decorative Used to finish seams, buttonholes, attach cording Decorative designs Specialty stitches Decorative

Before You Sew Practice sewing on scrap material Is the stitch length correct? Are stitches correct width? Is the tension right? Needle smooth and straight? Presser foot firm and tight? Handwheel tightened after winding the bobbin?

Unit Construction Unit construction – complete individual parts as fully as possible before sewing them together Complete stay stitching etc

Removing Stitches Mistakes happen Remove with seam ripper, thread clippers or small scissors

Hand Sewing Thread a needle Usually single thread Make a knot as shown on page 506 figure 13.1

Types of Hand Stitching Basting stitch Temporary stitching that marks or holds pieces together Removed when permanent stitching is done Two types Uneven and even

Running stitch Backstitch Simplest Gather, ease, tuck, quilt Use where little or no strain See figure 13.4 Page 507 Backstitch Strongest hand stitch Repair machine stitch seams and fasten thread ends

Pick stitch Slip stitch Variation of the backstitch Used to insert zippers Slip stitch almost invisible Can attach one folded edge to another Patch pockets, hems, linings, etx

Over cast Hemming stitch Prevents raw edges from unraveling Diagonal stitches over edge of fabric Hemming stitch Slanted stitch Finishing stitch

Blind stitch Catch stitch Barely visible from garment’s right side Hemming and holding facings down Catch stitch Criss-cross stitch holds two layers together flexible

Cross-stitch Buttonhole stitch Decorative stitch Center back of pleat jacket Buttonhole stitch Handworked buttonholes Attaching hooks and eyes Decorative finish

Blanket stitch Chain stitch Thread loops, eyes and belt carriers Decorative finish Chain stitch Forms thread loops, eyes and carriers Double thread to form a series of loops

Pressing Fabric Press (raising and lowering iron )rather than iron (slides back and forth) Use correct temperature setting Always test your fabric to see reaction Press on wrong side whenever possible When pressing on right side, always use a press cloth

Never press over pins Always press seams and darts before other seams are stitched across them Press directionally with the grain Press seams flat before you press them open

Press curved areas over a curved surface Tailor’s ham Prevent press marks on right side, slip pieces of paper under the edges of the seam Check the fit of the garment before you press sharp creases, pleats

Don’t over press When pressing an entire garment Start with small areas first Collars, cuffs, yokes Later press large flat areas

Pressing Techniques Flat areas Place garment on ironing board with both seam allowances to one side Open the fabric and place over board

Curved areas Darts, curved seams (tailor’s ham) Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches Place fabric wrong side up on tailor’s ham

Enclosed Seams Press seam flat Press seam open Turn right side out, gently push out corner or point Press garment section flat on ironing board

Gathered areas Press seam allowances together flat Slip garment over end of ironing board Press direction up into the gathers with the point of the iron

Shrinking in Fullness Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam to penetrate before pressure Use your fingers to pat out any folds Press edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness

Final Pressing While constructing garment Light pressure will remove wrinkles Light touch up at end

Making Darts Fold the dart with right sides together matching stitching lines Stitch from the wide end to the point Stitch the last two stitches as close to the fold line as possible Tie the thread ends

Pressing Darts Always press dart before crossing it with another seam

Gathering and Easing Fabric Adjust stitch length to 6 – 8 stitches Stitch the first row of basting next to the seam line Leave the threads long Stitch second row ¼ inch away and leave thread long

Pin the fabric edges matching, notches, seams, etc Pull up both bobbin thread from one end Gently slide the fabric along the stitching Wrap ends around a pin Distribute gathers evenly and pin Stitch with standard stitching along stitch lines

Shirring is formed by several rows of gathers Easing most often used at shoulder seams See page 518 figure 16-7

Sewing Plain Seams Stay-stitch any bias or curved areas Pin baste fabric layers together Raise the needle and take up lever Position fabric under needle Lower presser foot Backstitch for ½ inch and then forward Stitch forward slowly and evenly

Clip threads at the seam end and beginning Finish the seam edges if necessary

Turning a corner Stitch to within 5/8 inch stop with needle in fabric Lift presser foot Turn fabric Lower presser foot and continue

Turning a Sharp Point Take one or two diagonal stitches across the corner Raise presser foot, leave in needle and stitch diagonal

Reinforcing Reinforcement stitches on side of each point Prevent fabric yarns from pulling out

Special Seam Treatments Trimming Seam allowance in cut to ¼ inch (evenly) Grading Trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width (reduces bulk) Clipping On curved seams, making tiny clips or snips (1/4 to ½ inch)

Notching Curved seams with too much fabric After being trimmed or graded Cutting out tiny wedges no more than 1/8 to seam line