1. Woven Designs and Fabric Costs Dr. Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing

2. Learning Objectives n Dobby Pattern n Jacquard Pattern n Colour and Weave effect n Woven Fabric Costs

3. Woven Designs n If a fabric containing woven design is carefully examined, it will be noted that the design was created by selective long and short floats as well as the placement of interlacings. n Woven designs can be divided into three types, namely: 1.Dobby patterns 2.Jacquard patterns 3.Colour and Weave patterns

4. Dobby Patterns n A dobby pattern is a design which contains simple geometric forms or motifs. n It is made by regular loom with special hardness control mechanism called dobby head. n The dobby mechanism can control as many as 36 hardness. n Thus, more complex (bigger) and expensive weaves can be created other than simple plain, twill or satin weave. n A simple design likes plain, twill or satin weave uses cam motion which can control up to 6 hardness and therefore, the design is simple (smaller) and cheaper weave

5. Dobby Motion, up to 36 hardnesses can be controlled

6. Jacquard Pattern n Simple design uses cam motion which can control up to 6 hardness. n More complex design uses dobby motion which can control up to 36 hardness. n For an unlimited design (up to 1,000 width), a jacquard loom will be used. n This pattern is normally exceeds the capacity of hardness looms, so a special loom is used which has no hardness, and the ends are controlled by a jacquard head located at top of the loom. n Hooks and needles are used to raise and lower the warp yarns. As there are no hardnesses, any combination of yarns can be raised or lowered to produce the design

7. Jacquard Loom Hooks & Needles They control thousands of warp yarn up/down motion Unlimited design is possible

8. Jacquard Loom

9. Jacquard Loom (2) n Jacquard loom requires a large area and a very high ceiling. n The loom operates more slowly than do the other, simpler looms, so that fabric produced on this loom are more expensive. n Damask, tapestry and brocade are well-known fabrics made with jacquard design.

10. Color-and-weave Effect (1) n A color-and-weave effect is a pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of differently colored yarns in both warp and weft direction. n A housestooth pattern is a common example of color- and-weave effect design. n A 2/2 left hand twill (45 degree) with black and white colour arranged in both warp and weft direction, with four of one colour, followed by four of the second colour, produces a housetooth pattern

11. Colour-and-Weave effect Warp colour arrangement Weft color arrangement

12. Hound’s Tooth Pattern White and black yarns arranged in warp and weft direction, Plus twill design

13. Color-and-weave Effect (2) n Graph paper may be used to show a colour and weave effect. n The squares are marked with the colour of the yarn interlaces over. n If a black warp and green weft interlace with the weft over, the square is filled in green. n If the warp yarn passes over the weft, the square is filled in black. n When completed, the result is not the weave, but the pattern produced by the different-colour yarns with the given weave.

14. Factors affecting the cost of Woven Fabrics

15. Fabric costs n The selling price of a fabric is based upon the cost to produce it as well as the demand for the cloth. n Fabric is bought and sold both in the unfinished and finished states. n The following are some of factors that affect the cost of producing woven fabrics:

16. Fabric Costs 1) Fibre content n The cost of fibers is based upon quality as well as generic type. n Pima cotton is more expensive than Peeler cotton since it is better-quality fibre. n Polyester is more expensive than acetate because of the higher cost of production. Antron III nylon costs more than regular nylon for the same reason.

17. Fabric Cost 2) Yarn type n The cost of yarns is based upon fiber content and the type of yarn. n Novelty yarns are more expensive to produce than regular type. n High twist spun yarns cost more than low-twist spun yarns of the same yarn size because the former take longer to produce. n Thinner spun yarns are more expensive than thicker yarns. n Worsted yarn is more expensive than woolen yarn because of additional production steps are required. n Lighter weight filament polyester yarn (lower denier) is more expensive than heavier polyester yarn composed of same number of filament fibers. n Ply yarn is more costly than an equivalent size single yarn because both thinner yarns and plying process are required

18. Fabric Costs 3) Construction n The weave used is an important cost factor. n A jacquard design costs more than a plain, twill or satin weave because of additional preliminary and loom set-up costs, the lower production of jacquard loom. n The fabric yarns per inch must be considered. n A fabric with greater warp and weft yarns per inch will cost more than one with fewer yarns since it has greater yarn content. n In case of weft yarns per inch, the more picks per inch in the fabric, the fewer yards of fabric per hour are produced. n The number of yarns per inch and type of yarns used in fabric affect the fabric weight of the fabric. n Therefore, fabric weight directly affects the cost of woven fabric.

19. Discussion n Name three types of woven design. n What is colour-and-weave effect for woven design? n What are the factors that affecting the woven fabric costs?

20. Discussion n Which of these two fabrics would be more costly to produce, assuming they are identical in all other aspects (e.g. fiber content)? Explain –Fabric A: 120 X 80 –Fabric B: 110 X 90